[lace] Tenerife lace

2009-10-04 Thread Alex Stillwell
Dear Arachnids

My book 'The Technique of Teneriffe Lace' is available as a free download from
the Arizonal University web site. I always take a time finding it. Please will
you explain how to access it Tess. There are also many other out of print lace
books, some on Teneriffe, 'Proctor Teneriffe Lace' has some useful ideas.

I hope your jabots turn out well. It would be lovely to have a photograph of
them all being worn.

Happy lacemaking

Alex

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Re: [lace] grids

2009-10-04 Thread Brenda Paternoster

Hi Kim

I am looking for some information about grid terminology as I have  
received

conflicting info in the past.  The footside measurement seems to be
consistent to me. It is basically ½ of the squares per inch since  
you are

counting every second dot.


No - it's twice the squares per inch (or whatever unit you are using)

If you are using a graph paper with 10 squares per inch and the  
pinholes are on every other intersection the distance between the  
pinholes will be 2/10  of an inch.



The “straight” measurement is what I have heard
people use differently.  I have heard people refer to the diagonal  
pin count
as the “straight pin holes per inch” count, and I have heard people  
refer to
the number of dots along the straight portion (the number which  
would be
double the footside number) as the “straight pin holes per inch”  
count.


You do need to clarify whether you are referring to, say, 1/10" graph  
paper, or to a pattern with 1/10" between footedge pinholes.


Although most torchon patterns will start off on a set size of grid,  
often drawn over 1/10" or 2mm graph paper. it is so easy nowadays to  
enlarge or reduce a pattern by any amount.  Also some designers will  
turn the graph paper through 45 degrees and use every intersection for  
the basic grid.  That grid will have footedge pins spaced at nearly  
one and a half times the length of the graph paper squares - you can  
work it out exactly using Pythagorus's Theorum.


That's why my table of thread sizes : grid sizes refers to  distance  
between footedge pins.

http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/threadsize/threadsize.html

Before I move forward with a project I am working on I want to get  
this
ironed out and would appreciate any clarifying comments.Right  
now I am
just dealing with simple squares (Torchon) but welcome any advice  
about

other grids before I branch out.


The other sort of grid is a point ground grid with working angles of  
anything between about 50 degrees and 60 degrees.  In the past grids  
were drawn using maybe 3 squares one way and 4 squares the other way  
and in-between pinholes added by eye, but that's "old technology"   
Now, it's so easy to just take a regular 45 degree torchon grid and  
change the proportions with a click and drag of the mouse to get any  
working angle you want.

45 degree working angle makes a square
54 degree working angle makes a pentagon
60 degree working angle makes a hexagon.


Brenda in Allhallows
paternos...@appleshack.com
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

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[lace] Google Books expired copyrights

2009-10-04 Thread Laurie Waters
Can anyone comment on the potential copyright liability of sites like the 
University of Arizona's weaving archive (which includes the big lace 
archive) in view of Google's recent attempt to settle with publishers for 
sole rights to expired copyrights? I know this isn't final yet, but they are 
putting tremendous resources behind it and have a good chance of success. 
What will happen to sites like this one if this happens? Will they have to 
shut down? Are there any lawyers out there who are following this?
I know I'd like to scan a few old works for my own site, but have no idea of 
the potential impact here. Thanks.
Laurie 


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[lace] Mystery items

2009-10-04 Thread Diana Smith
More mystery items on eBay suggested as being lace bobbins. Item number 
370269613920.



Diana in Northants 


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RE: [lace] grids

2009-10-04 Thread Kim Davis
Lorelei said,
" I think the basic problem is that there is no consistent use of language
on this topic.  "

I was starting to wonder if this might be the problem, thank you so much for
the confirmation.

Brenda replied,
" Hi Kim

> I am looking for some information about grid terminology as I have 
> received conflicting info in the past.  The footside measurement seems 
> to be consistent to me. It is basically ½ of the squares per inch 
> since you are counting every second dot.

No - it's twice the squares per inch (or whatever unit you are using)

If you are using a graph paper with 10 squares per inch and the pinholes are
on every other intersection 
the distance between the pinholes will be 2/10  of an inch."


We are not talking about the same measurement here.  I agree with what you
have said about the distance between pinholes.  I was referring to what I
have commonly seen called "number of footside holes to the inch."  The best
example I can give of this is the Thread Selection Chart put out by Holly
Van Sciver.  If there are 10 squares per inch and the footside holes are
placed every second square, there would be 5 footside holes to the inch.

Thanks so much for all of the information!

Kim




-Original Message-
From: Brenda Paternoster [mailto:paternos...@appleshack.com] 
Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 2:42 AM
To: Kim Davis
Cc: 'Lace Arachne'
Subject: Re: [lace] grids

Hi Kim

> I am looking for some information about grid terminology as I have  
> received
> conflicting info in the past.  The footside measurement seems to be
> consistent to me. It is basically ½ of the squares per inch since  
> you are
> counting every second dot.

No - it's twice the squares per inch (or whatever unit you are using)

If you are using a graph paper with 10 squares per inch and the  
pinholes are on every other intersection the distance between the  
pinholes will be 2/10  of an inch.

> The “straight” measurement is what I have heard
> people use differently.  I have heard people refer to the diagonal  
> pin count
> as the “straight pin holes per inch” count, and I have heard people  
> refer to
> the number of dots along the straight portion (the number which  
> would be
> double the footside number) as the “straight pin holes per inch”  
> count.

You do need to clarify whether you are referring to, say, 1/10" graph  
paper, or to a pattern with 1/10" between footedge pinholes.

Although most torchon patterns will start off on a set size of grid,  
often drawn over 1/10" or 2mm graph paper. it is so easy nowadays to  
enlarge or reduce a pattern by any amount.  Also some designers will  
turn the graph paper through 45 degrees and use every intersection for  
the basic grid.  That grid will have footedge pins spaced at nearly  
one and a half times the length of the graph paper squares - you can  
work it out exactly using Pythagorus's Theorum.

That's why my table of thread sizes : grid sizes refers to  distance  
between footedge pins.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/threadsize/threadsize.html

> Before I move forward with a project I am working on I want to get  
> this
> ironed out and would appreciate any clarifying comments.Right  
> now I am
> just dealing with simple squares (Torchon) but welcome any advice  
> about
> other grids before I branch out.

The other sort of grid is a point ground grid with working angles of  
anything between about 50 degrees and 60 degrees.  In the past grids  
were drawn using maybe 3 squares one way and 4 squares the other way  
and in-between pinholes added by eye, but that's "old technology"   
Now, it's so easy to just take a regular 45 degree torchon grid and  
change the proportions with a click and drag of the mouse to get any  
working angle you want.
45 degree working angle makes a square
54 degree working angle makes a pentagon
60 degree working angle makes a hexagon.


Brenda in Allhallows
paternos...@appleshack.com
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/



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[lace] Mystery Tool

2009-10-04 Thread Vickie Green
Greetings all,

   A cigar piercer in a sewing basket may not be that odd actually, as my
Grandmother always kept one of my Grandfather's unused cigars stored in with
her threads and tatting because she swore it kept bugs like silverfish away. 
I have a container of her embroidery floss that contains such a reminder of
them both and it's still  fragrant every time I open it.

  Makes me wonder about what odd things I have stored with my lace supplies
that will cause someone to wonder when I'm gone :)

Vickie in Virginia

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[lace] engageantes / jabots / cravats/ Sotomayor

2009-10-04 Thread lucieduf
While perusing the arizona university site, I found these two articles
that might answer some questions that were posed on the list:

- for the person who was looking for Nouvelle France engageante
information, look here for patterns, how to wear and other various
information:

Lace Caps of the Eighteenth Century. The Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin
Club, Vol 5, No2 (1921) 6 pages
www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/nb21_lc3.pdf

- for those of you wishing to make lace jabots for Judge Sotomajor

A video interview on choices for robes and collars given by Supreme Court
Justices Sandra Day O'Connor and Ruth Bader Ginsberg:
http://supremecourt.c-span.org/Video/JusticeOwnWords/SC_Jus_FemaleJust.aspx

and an article on jabots:

Cravats by Mrs F. Nevill Jackson. The Connoisseur, Vol9 (1904) 7 pages
www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/aea_lac1.psf

- the ecclesiastical robe company in Quebec mentioned by Supreme Court
Justice Sonia Sotomayor is probably Bertrand Foucher Belanger:
http://www.bfb.ca/vw/fs/p010.htm

Enjoy! and thank you to all those who wrote me with information about
historical lace for re-enactors.

Lucie DuFresne
Ottawa Guild of Lacemakers
Ottawa Canada

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RE: [lace] lace in Grasse, France

2009-10-04 Thread Sally Schoenberg
Hi Carolyn, and all my lacemaking friends on Arachne,

Carolyn asked if I took photos, and no, I didn't, but I googled and found
these great photos of the museum:

http://www.fragonard.com/parfums_grasse/gb/fragonard/events_fragonard.cfm has
a good photo of a few of the costumes I saw.  I looked mostly at the quilted
skirts - I'd heard of them but had never seen them, and I've always thought
they didn't sound very attractive.  But they were nice. The skirt fabric was
hand quilted, and not very thick, similar to the quilted placemats that you
see everywhere for sale in Provence, though each little poofed diamond was,
well, quite poofy.  The skirts all stood out in a nice bell shape.  The skirt
fabric was all light colored with a flowered pattern, just like in this photo.
The aprons were fine, dark colored silk, gathered at the waist and tied in
back.  The tops of the aprons were no more than 1/3 of the entire
circumferance of the waist and spread out to cover the fronts of the skirts
out to the sides.  The bodices were all short jackets with sleeves that went
just below the elbow, exactly like in this photo.  Several were blue and the
fabric looked like a coarse-ish handwoven plainweave linen.  As a handweaver,
I would guess 20/2 or 25/2 linen thread in contempory sizes.  The fabric was
not thick or heavy, and it looked comfortable.  The bodice/jacket was fitted,
not padded but surely lined, and the neck opening was close, but without a
collar.  Around the neck was a black ribbon with a cross hanging from it.  If
I remember correctly, the ribbon was threaded through a small ring in the top
of the cross so the cross did not hang down very far from the ribbon.  There
were straw hats with two of the costumes, wide brimed with small, flat crowns.
They must have perched precariously on the very tops of women's heads and
would have needed a stout ribbon in any kind of wind. The lace caps in the
photos are the ones I saw.

Here are some more photos:
http://www.fragonard.com/parfums_grasse/GB/fragonard/grasse/provencal_costume
_and_jewelry_museum.cfm


Margaret and Bev in BC suggested Lierse lace for the colored lace that was in
the exhibit, so I googled Lierse also.  Lierse is close, but the lace I saw
definitely had a background net made on a 45 degree grid, and the Lierse I saw
on the internet had a tulle background.  So maybe the lace I saw in Grasse was
18th century.  The lace I saw was chainstitched and otherwise looked much like
the Lierse I saw on the internet.


Sally

> From: caro...@carolynsmith-kizer.com
> To: sally13n...@q.com
> Subject: Re: [lace] lace in Grasse, France
> Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 12:02:18 -0400
>
> Sally, thank you for sharing. Do you have any photos of the museum? I do
> 18thC French colonial reenacting and the journals state that the officers
> said Canadienne habitantes reminded them of Provençales. I would love to see
> any photos you have, as I will never get to France.
>
> Respectfully,
> Carolyn
> http://18thccuisine.blogspot.com/
> http://carolynsmith-kizer.com
>

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Re: [lace] Google Books expired copyrights

2009-10-04 Thread Dora Smith
I wouldn't worry about it.   Enjoy the information.   Of course, on the 
other hand, nobody can make you enjoy the information.  If you are hung up 
about the morality of making information freely available, then don't read 
it.


Yours,
Dora Smith
Austin, TX
tiggernu...@yahoo.com
- Original Message - 
From: "Laurie Waters" 

To: 
Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 10:22 AM
Subject: [lace] Google Books expired copyrights


Can anyone comment on the potential copyright liability of sites like the 
University of Arizona's weaving archive (which includes the big lace 
archive) in view of Google's recent attempt to settle with publishers for 
sole rights to expired copyrights? I know this isn't final yet, but they 
are putting tremendous resources behind it and have a good chance of 
success. What will happen to sites like this one if this happens? Will 
they have to shut down? Are there any lawyers out there who are following 
this?
I know I'd like to scan a few old works for my own site, but have no idea 
of the potential impact here. Thanks.

Laurie
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To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
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arachnemodera...@yahoo.com 


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