[lace] machine made
Kathleen Perhaps I should have been more specific. I was thinking of lacemakers in the 18th century. Your remarks do fit somewhat better for the 19th century, but not the 18th. There was a reason that the French revolution happened. We have all heard about how lacemakers supposedly worked the same pattern throughout their lives. But the evidence I've seen in actual historic laces from the 18th and 19 century tells me that that simply was not the case. During the entire 18th century fashion changed frequently, so lace can be dated by style alone to within 10 to 15 or 20 years. With fashion changing that often, a lacemaker who kept to the same pattern would not be able to get the best possible price for her labor, since the aristocrats wouldn't buy what was old style and unfashionable. During the 19th century style changed frequently, but perhaps every 25 - 30 years. Lorelei - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace] Un-Conference -- final report
During IOLI Conference week, a group of ladies held our own Un-Conference Workshop. We met for five hours each day, Monday through Friday. There were eight ladies who attended, though not everyone every day. We brought our lunches and ate together each day even though we did not have a formal dinner together. We met in a different town/home each day so the same person did not have to drive the furthest every day. Depending on skill and time lacemaking, we had a whole range of progress on the oval doily. The fastest lady made half of her project in the five days, the slowest about 8 percent. The others were somewhere in between. I consider myself about halfway through the project. Two people are using two colors, the rest are working in white only. Some have Fresia thread and some Bockens. It does seem to make a difference, though not a lot. Some may choose to insert linen fabric in the center of the doily instead of working it in lace. When we finish them, we want to get them together for a display. It should be interesting. The border section includes a fan, a ringed spider, and a three-pair crossing in each repeat. We had reference books out on various methods of doing a three pair crossing, and each person chose her own way to do it. I'm curious to see how the different methods appear. At the conclusion of the Workshop, all participants were in favor of doing this again. It was fun having a week concentrating on lace without the expense of a hotel. Each one could work at her own speed without pressure to complete something, or trying to keep up with a teacher's presentation. It wasn't as much fun as Conference would have been, of course, since there's so much more than just classes going on, but it was the next best thing for people who had to stay closer to home. Alice in Oregon -- where summer has finally come with hot and dry days. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace] machine/handmade lace
I think you will find that this applies after the passing of the Education Act in the late 19th century (can't recall the exact year but somewhere around 1874 I think) when the Dame Schools by law had to provide some teaching other than just the practicalities of lacemaking - ie the children would be able to read and write their name, and perhaps a few passages from the Bible, but certainly didn't have anything like the sort of education in English and Maths that we do now. The dames themselves would not necessarily have been well educated, either! Many of the parents, who had to pay extra for this privilege, objected on the grounds that it wouldn't teach them anything useful - so they also faced discouragement at home. Before the Education Act there was no requirement for the children to learn anything other than lacemaking at these schools. If they learnt anything else at all, the likelihood would be that it would have been at Sunday School where they picked up the basics of the three Rs, together with needlework, etc (I have my great great grandmother's sampler which would have been worked at Sunday School - she would have been helping her parents, her father was a nailer in Bromsgrove - in the home and forge during the week before she left home and went into service). Running the home would have taken second fiddle to making enough lace to survive, with chores undertaken early in the morning or late at night, I suspect it was in many cases a hand to mouth existence - make the lace, sell it, use the money to buy provisions. I also don't think they were that well off - remember the lace was sold to a dealer, on cut off day - if the lace wasn't up to scratch they weren't paid, and if they were, it was usually by the truck system where they were paid in tokens (as were their ag lab husbands) which could be exchanged for high price goods (ie food etc) in the dealer's shop - if they wanted to be paid in cash (which is still a legal right) then they were paid less - about 10d to the shilling. It was because of the poverty that many lacemakers moved to jobs in the factories when they could - maybe away from home and not quite so clean, but certainly better paid - and also why so many burnt their lace equipment to celebrate their escape from the slavery. As fashion changed throughout the 19th century demand dropped, putting both hand and machine lace workers out of employment. One of the reasons why it was so difficult to find sufficient lacemakers to work the lace for Queen Victoria's wedding dress was that efforts to earn enough from lacemaking had led to a drop in quality of workmanship. The end product may be high priced, but only after the dealers had made their profit, they were the ones who were well paid! To compare, consider how little lacemakers in third world countries get today, by the time you have deducted the various taxes, transport costs, wholesaler and retailer's profit, etc from the lace you see on sale in various tourist areas - no way do they get a decent wage! Their work would have been repetitive, maybe not making exactly the same pattern but certainly the same type of lace - according to the dealer's pattern book and their skill level. The best lacemakers would have had the most varied life. In message 0AD9359F26314D88A5A2E02A1B4B758D@dellsx280, Peter and Kathleen Harris ec...@cix.co.uk writes I would like to address Lorelei's comment that the lacemakers working by hand were often illiterate. My understanding is quite different. In the English villages where lace was made, many of the children, both boys and girls, were sent to lace schools. Lacemaking was taught, but also basic reading, writing and arithmetic, this being necessary to justify them being called schools. -- Jane Partridge - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
Re: [lace] machine/handmade lace
In the 19th century 'Lace Schools' were mostly just that - schools for learning to make lace. Usually kept by an elderly lace maker who would have little or no skills in teaching the three R's. Some basics in lettering could probably be achieved but little more. The following is an account by a lace maker from Sudborough in Northamptonshire. There is no mention of the children learning anything other than lace making.  âMrs Bugby was born in the atmosphere of pillows and bobbins for her mother kept a lace school in the village so the combined memories of mother and daughter take us back to the time when lace making flourished and supplemented the meagre wages of the menfolk. We learn that there were two or three lace schools in Sudborough and Mrs Bugbyâs mother had about a dozen scholars. She had a room with 2 windows and some girls sat by one and the rest by the other. The scholars sat back to back to prevent unnecessary conversation. The ages of the scholars varied. Some began at the age of 5 and stayed until they were married. Girls preferred lace making to going into service. Her motherâs charge to teach them the art was 3 shillings and this including âsetting upâ tying bobbins etc. This price included everything until the learner was a thoroughly competent lace maker. After they became skilled, her mother charged them 3d a week to do work in her house and that included firing in the winter. Mrs Bugby herself started lace making when only 5 years old. Work began as soon as it was light and continued until the allotted task was done.'  There were Dame's Schools and Charity Schools which provided 'reading, sewing and lacemaking'. These were sometimes run together with children spending time in each. In some areas evening classes were also available for the very keen. At nearby Wellingborough - 'A charity school in which 25 boys are taught to read, and the like number of girls to read, sew and make lace, is supported by means of a bequest made by John Freeman in 1711.' The above is taken from my research into lacemaking in Northamptonshire.  I have a interesting book published in 2000 by Alan Brown called 'Take the Children...? How Victorian lace girls lived and worked in the Honiton and East Midlands districts - this is their story, as told to the 1862 Royal Commission. I believe Sheila Brown is on the list.  Diana Smith in Northamptonshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace] Lace and education
Please note that the comments made about education apply to England and Wales only. John Knox stated that every church should have a school master to teach the rudiments. Much later, in 1696, there was passed an Act for Setting Schools which provided that every parish which didn't have a school had to establish one and there should be High Schools to teach Latin etc. Actual provision must have been patchy for some considerable time and take up of the opportunity was most likely uneven but from the eighteenth century an education system was well established with at least some sons of poor farmers etc making it to university. It is many years since my father died and my memory may be at fault but I believe his little village school could teach to university level for those who would and/or could take advantage of this. He was born in 1903 and so I am talking around 100 years ago when public transport as we know it now was mostly not available and most people walked if they needed to leave their village. Otherwise comments about poverty apply to all parts of the UK. Patricia in Wales - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
Re: [lace] machine/handmade lace
Excuse the ignorance, but what are the three Rs? Karen in Malta - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace] RE:machine lace
Education Act of 1872, I believe. Prior to that, I think lace schools in the UK were lace schools and you were there to learn to make lace, not learn the 3R's. That changed after 1872. Anne Buck has a very good section about it in her book on Lester and the East Midlands laces, if anyone is interested in reading some more on it. I know there are stories of lacemakers and their experiences on cutting off day. There's one dealer in Bedford, I think (don't think it was Lester), who was known to jam the fingers of his workers in the drawer as they reached in for a 'reward' if they'd made bad lace. You could tell those women, as they'd be walking along the street wringing their fingers. Cheers for now, Helen, Duvall, WA, where it's a lovely summery day. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
Re: [lace] machine/handmade lace
The three Rs are Reading, Riting and Rithmetic (Reading, Writing and Arithmetic) at least in the US. It is a bit of a joke because only an uneducated person would think that each of the words started with an R. Devon _kazaman44@gmail.com_ (mailto:kazama...@gmail.com) writes: Excuse the ignorance, but what are the three Rs? Karen in Malta - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
RE: [lace] Two views of lives of lacemakers
My own view coincides with that of Jane and Lorelei ..parents even opposed the introduction of the Education Act in England because it required children to go to school and stopped them being productive to contribute to the family income. There has been research done on the subject.two books by the late Alan Brown were published some years ago, Yallop wrote a book about the Honiton lace industry, there are snippets of information in a variety of books about the history of bobbins, I also have a couple of books written by present-day lacemakers about the history of their family, a book about Isaac Newton and William Cowper's time in Olney talks about them writing hymns as a form of lace tell in order to teach the Bible to illiterate lacemakers in the village - I think the evidence is there, but I'd have to dig through the bookshelves to find the exact titles. Ruth(Sydney, Australia) thelacema...@optusnet.com.au -Original Message- From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] On Behalf Of dmt11h...@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, 14 August 2012 3:27 AM To: jpartri...@pebble.demon.co.uk; ec...@cix.co.uk Cc: lace@arachne.com Subject: [lace] Two views of lives of lacemakers This is very interesting, two different views of the same thing, and something that I have often wondered about myself. Does anyone know of research that has been done on this subject? Devon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
RE: [lace] machine/handmade lace
Hi, Karen - It's a bit tongue in cheek (a bit of a joke) really: Reading, wRiting, and aRithmetic G. Margery. margerybu...@o2.co.uk in North Herts, UK -Original Message- From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] On Behalf Of Karen M. Zammit Manduca Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 9:13 PM To: Diana Smith Cc: Arachne Subject: Re: [lace] machine/handmade lace Excuse the ignorance, but what are the three Rs? Karen in Malta - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
RE: [lace] condition of lacemakers
Allan Brown's two books are based on reports of an inquiry into the conditions of the lace industry conducted by Alan Cole. Ruth (Sydney, Australia) thelacema...@optusnet.com.au -Original Message- From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] On Behalf Of Lorelei Halley Sent: Tuesday, 14 August 2012 6:42 AM To: lace@arachne.com Subject: [lace] condition of lacemakers Alan Cole, who was writing around 1900, wrote some books about lace, but also wrote reports to the government about the economic condition of lacemakers. I think he was curator of the V A for a while. Lorelei - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace] Thread question
Greetings, Gentle (but busy!) Spiders! I have a question... A few weeks ago, I started a new project! I wound the bobbins I needed to begin the work (106 pairs!) and a few extra, knowing ahead of time that I would need another 35 +/- pairs to add in as I progressed. I stopped winding when I finished a spool, knowing I have several more in reserve. I've now gotten all of the original bobbins hung in, as well as the dozen or so extras, and need to wind some more extras. Now, much to my horror, I realize that the thread I used is Egyptian Cotton 140/2 in Bright White, and all of the other spools of 140/2 that I have are optic white... and there is a difference. I've gone on-line to see if I can find more Bright White, but it seems that everyone sells only the optic white now. When did this change take place? I don't *think* I've been asleep for years, but I don't remember any discussion about bright white being discontinued. Are there any vendors out there who still carry the bright white in 140/2? Or does a kind lacemaker have a spool (or even a partial spool!) of bright that she would trade for a spool of optic? I'm far enough along that restarting is not an option I want to consider, and I'm very much afraid that the addition of a couple of dozen pairs of optic white to this bright white will be very, very distracting. Help!! Clay - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace] thread question
Clay I don't know about the threads you specifically mention. But if you hang them spread out among the others, they won't show (except to you) in the finished lace. What will make the color difference visible is if all the optic white are hung right near each other. Then you will have lace with color patches. Something that weavers sometimes do is to use several shades of a color in the same piece. It gives a liveliness and vibrancy to the woven cloth. I've tried that in bobbin lace, with the same effect. If there some way you can space out the odd colored threads, or will that involve too much un-hanging? Lorelei - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace] machine/handmade lace
My Great Grandmother was taught to read and write - probably at lace School. However the family thought it was dreadful that her father paid to have her taught to read and write - a total waste of hard earned money, and they almost banned him from the family!! She was the last of the family to earn her living making lace. I have no idea who she worked for. She lived in the villages around Bedford. I have a well worn bone bobbin with her name on and dated 1864, - which must be when she started school as a 4 year old, as she was born in 1860. I have a collar which I think she may have made, as it was given to my mother for her 21st birthday. My Grandma made the lace for my 21st birthday. Grandma taught lace I think, for a while, but did not make it for sale. Regards from Liz in cold, wintery,Melbourne, Oz. lizl...@bigpond.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace-chat] Irish Olympic Sailing commentary
Thanks for that David. The sailing was happening a few miles down the coast from where I live. Although it was an Irish comedian making this video, his commentary was, in fact, how most people would view sailing. Only those who really understand competitive sailing and its rules know what's going on, and I'm not one of those neither is DH. He was in fits of laughter watching it and thought it was a real commentary. Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
