It is suggested you either use hand cream, or not. Be consistent.
Carol's note about using Udder Cream reminded me of an in-depth study a
silk embroiderer and I did years ago. It was a test of various hand creams
that claimed to be specifically made for silk embroiderers. This fell
right in line with my interest in textile conservation.
We concluded that every hand cream altered the color of the threads, or
the way light traveled across stitch surfaces, regardless of the
manufacturer's claims. Some hand creams might have been harmless, but there
were
definite differences!
For each thread, we stitched 3 squares next to each other with no space
between them, on silk gauze: We stitched a square without using hand cream,
then an adjacent square with hand creams to the right, and to the left of
the creamless square we stitched a design of cream-infused thread surrounded
by creamless thread. This was done with several different brands of hand
creams that needlework shops were selling and with several different silk
thread brands in several colors and white.
In every case, there was a slight color difference. We concluded that if
you are working anything with silk thread where the finished texture is
smooth, choose either to use cream or not, and be consistent.
Creamy hands mean they will more easily pick up dirt, dyes, chemicals with
which they come in contact. For example, wiping hands on an apron that
might have a food stain that would melt into the hand cream.
From a conservator's point of view, it is best to cream your hands and wear
white cotton gloves over them when you go to bed, and also keep your
cuticles and nails under control. Use creams as you normally do during the
day. Then, wash your hands before working with silk, and every half hour or
more thereafter. (Hand washing interval depends on how much acid is in your
skin and how it reacts to handcream. An indicator for this is length of
time it takes for new sewing needles to become dull and lose their slippery
surfaces).
Professional silk embroiderers do not do any work at home that would damage
their skin or fingernails. In an unheated National Embroidery Institute
studio in China, I saw that they had flannel-covered hot water bottles in
their laps to warm their fingers. Think back in lace history, and you know
that most of the European women working with silk lived in convents where
their work produced most of the income for supporting everyone. They would
not have been the ones cleaning, washing and gardening.
Here is what happens with any fiber: When you roll a thread between
finger and thumb or caress the threads, which is more often than you think
even
with bobbin laces, that works oils deeper into crevasses of spun fibers,
where any form of cleaning will not reach. Oils on the surface may be washed
away, but use of any extra chemicals on any threads is never desirable.
Then, remember those tiny organisms that like to nibble on ingredients of
oils, starches, etc. and may leave stains behind. Add various climates,
storage conditions, and ... well, you get the idea.
It is suggested you either use hand cream, or not. Be consistent.
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
(I've just spent 6 days wet cleaning a very old piece of Venetian Point
lace - shaped like a lappet cap and 55 inches in length and 9 inches at the
widest center part. Very tiny buttonhole stitches, unseen without
magnification. It was saturated with black oil in one long section, and
nearly all
has come out through soaking to let fibers expand and shed the oil, and
changing the Orvus and distilled water frequently!)
In a message dated 1/16/2015 6:25:54 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
nestalace.ca...@btinternet.com writes:
Since Mr Piper passed away, and Susan took over, I have used many tons of
her 'Udder Cream' - my skin is VERY dry, and it makes such a difference to
the scaly skin - wouldn't be without it!Also the silks - I love working
with silk, and their selection is wonderful.
Carol in North Norfolk, UK
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