Hand Stitch Perspectives
By Alice Kettle and Jane McKeating
Bloomsbury Press  2012
ISBN 978-1-40812-341-6

This is a book of chapters written by 18 contemporary embroidery experts,
mostly professors connected to the Manchester School of Art, Manchester
England.

Here, we find background information about Fanny Palliser and other
prominent people of her day in the textile realm of embroidery and lace.

In the chapter "But what can the Museum do to Encourage Embroidery?
Museums, collectors and embroidery"  (pg. 164) the beginnings of the  textile
collection at the South Kensington Museum (now V&A) are  described.  In 1873,
a
special loan exhibition of decorative art needlework  made before 1800 was
presented, initiated by Queen Victoria's daughter, Princess  Christian, HRH.
the Duchess of Teck; Lady Marion Alford, Vicountess  Cust; and Victoria
Welby (all involved later in the founding of what is now  The Royal School of
Needlework).

Five catalogues were published as a result of the exhibit; the first
catalogue by Mrs. Bury Palliser, and four by Alan Summerly Cole (whom we have
written about often on Arachne because of his accounts about the lives of lace
 makers in England and Ireland).

In 1876, 160 Greek embroideries were acquired at the recommendation of Mrs.
 Palliser, one of the museum's "art referees".  It is thought some of these
 embroideries may have influenced the development of Ruskin (or Greek)
lace.  Anyone interested in the V&A's Greek embroideries and the  collectors
who contributed them, may want to read this chapter.  It is rich  in history.

Other leading experts mentioned in this chapter are Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth
 (Gawthorpe Hall), and Louisa Pesel (Greek embroidery scholar, 1st
President of  The Embroiderers' Guild in England, and author of several
embroidery
portfolios),

Elsewhere, more is presented about Louisa Pesel (p. 90); Beryl Dean, the
foremost 20th C. ecclesiastical embroidery expert (p. 104); and 8 pages
about Thérèse de Dillmont (p.138), who married and died one year  later.  It
is
said she was replaced by her niece of the same  name!  So much was vested in
the name Thérèse de Dillmont that DMC  made every effort to prevent Thérèse
(the younger) from marrying!  The  "Encyclopedia of Needlework", first
published in the 1890s, was a promotional  tool for the needlework products of
Dollfus-Mieg & Cie, Mulhouse,  France.

Much of the book is about modern hand embroidery/stitching, so you may
prefer borrowing it from your local library.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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