In a message dated 19/10/2010 Diane writes:
Michael, this book may be a resource for you. Singer Instructions for
Art Embroidery Lacework, a reprint of the 1941 edition is available at
Lacis in Berekley, Calif.
But it is s difficult to do. I have an original and it shows you how
to embroider with nothing more than an early Singer zigzag machine. The
degree of precision and control required is phenomenal. And close up, it is
still obviously machine embroidery not bobbin lace.
You will certainly be able to programme your machine, relatively easily, to
embroider the paths that would be taken by the bobbin threads in these
early laces, so from a distance of a couple of feet or so it will be a good
aproximation of the lace. But any closer than that and *anyone that knows
bobbin lace* will be able to tell. That isn't an enormous percentage of the
population, but it depends on the scruples of the wearers! The shape and
design
possibly could be accomplished at the microscopic level
but the method of production will not fool; if the SCA practitioners want
it accurate to this level, they need to learn to make bobbin lace.
If you are thinking of reproducing the pointed edges that were used on
ruffs etc, also consider the after care. I supect that the most probable way
you will programme to embroider is to have straight stitches marking the
paths, which will then be satin stitched over. I also suspect that if this
gets
wet (in the rain) or needs to be washed that it will curl up and be even
more of a B to block back into shape than the equivalent bobbin lace would be.
With the bobbin lace the thread paths (in the plaits) are basically in the
direction of the work. With the machine embroidery the threads paths will
be fighting against each other (can't think of a better way to describe it).
And don't forget you will have to do this too as you wash away the soluble
fabric, but at least you have the advantage of being able to pin it out
before you wet it, before it contracts and curls.
The similar designs of early laces used as a braid and appliqued onto
fabric would be much easier to look after.
Usually machine embroidered laces have the open, dainty areas supported by
more solid borders (as with real lace), and this is possibly for the above
reason as much as to replicate handmade lace.
I heard someone once say that one reason why Beds lace went out of favour
(as a commonly worn lace) was that ladies maids also became far less common.
In the same way as nine pin edge needs to be pinned out to regain its
'virgin' appearance after washing, this machine made lace would need intensive
care. Make sure that the potential SCA lace wearers appreciate the amount of
fiddly work the lace will need.
If you can get access to the Lace Crafts Quarterly magazines (now defunct
after only four years of production, in the late 80s/early 90s), possibly in
the IOLI library? some of those have good articles on working reproduction
handmade lace on a machine. But not the very early lace.
Jacquie in Lincolnshire
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