Re: [lace] Re: Hand or machine- emerging sensibilities?

2007-12-11 Thread Adele Shaak
These days, if I ever make lace for something like a hankie, I tend to 
hem the hankie separately (either by machine or a rolled hem by hand) 
and attach the lace by overcasting (by hand). It's not as pretty, but 
I can tak the lace off easily.


I do this, too, for much the same reason. It's not that I don't know 
the traditional hemstitches; it's not even that I can't do them evenly 
- I can, but I don't use them because I'm absolutely sure that there's 
no way I could remove the lace again without, at some point, cutting 
into the lace threads. Also, I'm really not fond of the 
tiny-geometric-hole look; I know it's traditional but I think it 
clashes with the more sweeping shapes of the lace.


There are some embroidery stitches that are fast, pick out easily, and 
go well with lace. I particularly like the combination of Bedfordshire 
and feather stitch (If you don't know that stitch you can see an 
example here:

http://inaminuteago.com/stitchdict/stitch/buttonhole-feather.html )

A handkerchief I made with beds motifs and feather stitch is still one 
of my favourites. I tacked the hem and tacked on the lace, then worked 
over both with the feather stitch. I'm sure there are lots of similar 
surface embroidery stitches that complement lace and don't take a lot 
of time, skill, or minute work.


Adele
North Vancouver, BC
(west coast of Canada)

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[lace] Re: Hand or machine- emerging sensibilities?

2007-12-11 Thread Tamara P Duvall

On Dec 11, 2007, at 10:30, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Devon) wrote:

Clay speaks of doing laborious hand mounting only of things to be  
judged.


Speaking from the perspective of a person who has been called in to 
judge
lace on occasion, I find the hand-finishing issue troubling. Some 
pieces are
very beautifully hand finished, representing a huge amount of time 
spent on that
 aspect. These pieces don't always have the best lace on them. 
Sometimes
there is  a piece that has been nicely machine finished, or even not 
so nicely
finished,  but is a much better piece of lace. What is a judge to do? 
[...]

Devon
proposing a radical concept


Personally, when I was asked to judge, I concentrated on the lace, not 
on the mounting, unless the mounting was so horrible, that that was all 
you could see. For basically the same reasons as Devon -- time spent on 
meticulous mounting is time taken away from improving your lace.


For me, there are also other reasons (apart from being cack-handed when 
it comes to hand-sewing ). One is that, 100 or so yrs ago, most 
women knew a lot more about hand sewing than most women do today. Even 
if they didn't know how to make lace, they knew how to attach it 
nicely. The second reason is that the fancy-stitched attachment tends 
to be *permanent*; those 3- and 4-point stitches last and last and 
last. Long past the time the fabric gives up the ghost. So then, if you 
want to reuse the lace, you have to pick the fabric threads out, one by 
one and even then still risk the ruin of the lace.


These days, if I ever make lace for something like a hankie, I tend to 
hem the hankie separately (either by machine or a rolled hem by hand) 
and attach the lace by overcasting (by hand). It's not as pretty, but I 
can tak the lace off easily.


But this by hand vs by machine thread reminds me of something which, 
several years later, I still have not resolved. I think it was in '99, 
that the IOLI Convention was in Bethesda, Maryland. The competition 
theme was handkerchiefs. And the first place (in the original lace 
category) went to a beautiful, multicoloured piece, the lines of which 
were very irregular/sinuous not only at the headside, but at the 
footside as well.


"Sheer h..l to mount" I thought when I saw that piece "What colour 
thread would you use? And all the cutting and hemming of that fabric 
edge to fit it inside the lace Eeek". Apparently, the lacemaker 
found the task equally daunting... So she didn't mount the lace at all 
:) The "edging" was just pinned to a piece of fabric, which extended 
past the outer edges of the lace. Because the lace was strongly 
coloured and the fabric was white, the fabric provided the contrasting 
background and the lace was visible -- not something that one could do 
with white lace. But, neither was it a *handkerchief*, in the way I 
understand a hankie. Yet, it got the first... And it made me wonder 
just how many points other people -- who did bother to attach theirs -- 
lost to inexpert attachment, un-necessarily.


--
Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/
Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland)

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