[lace] Re: tensioning the threads and word structure
On Mar 21, 2009, at 20:35, Elise and Scott Hays wrote: Has anyone here noticed a problem with tensioning linen thread? I am working on some torchon using Brockens 50/2 and I am increasingly disappointed with the uneven tension in the piece. Linen needs really firm tensioning. But, even more important, it needs to be done after every stitch, whether half, or linen, or whole (double). It should be done with cotton also but, cotton being smoother, you can get away with tensioning a few stitches at a time. Linen, which clings to itself (because of the fuzzy bits), will punish you for cutting corners... :( When you've finished a stitch, lift both of the pairs involved in it, and pull them -- slightly up and slightly apart -- to slide the stitch in place. At winkie pins (if that's at your headside, rather than picots), twist the worker (I like 3 twists) and pull the two threads up and apart, to set the twists slightly, before putting up the pin. After the worker has started its return trip, the twists will resettle, evenly, around the pin. -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: tensioning the threads
Following Tamara's excellent advice about tensioning, I also wonder if your comments about the lace curving and being tighter towards the footside could indicate you are taking your pins out too soon. Depending on the pinhole spacing, you will need to leave probably at least a couple of inches of pins in place so that you're not 'gathering' the lace as you tension. As well as leaving in plenty of pins right across the width of the lace, try leaving the footside (and headside) row of pins in for a long as possible, because the footside or headside passives are the only ones travelling from top to bottom and particularly if you are working these pairs in cloth stitch, they will pull through easily if not supported by pin. So, leave these edge rows of pins until the blocks need to be moved on a block pillow, until the lace needs repositioning on a cookie, or as far as possible on a roller. Because on the latter the pins don't (can't) stay in for as long as on other types of pillow, you need to be especially careful not to tension the footside passives too enthusiastically. If your pillow allows you to, and your roller is firmly anchored, you can re-pin the edge to the pillow behind the roller. If you do this you need to be very aware of the fact you have done it so you remember to unpin it before you try to move the roller! Jacquie in Linconshire. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
