[lace] more Honiton
Robin and Susan The weaver color dominates simply because there is more of it. Look here for an example. http://lynxlace.com/images/r29o.jpg Tensioning doesn't have anything to do with it. Lorelei - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] more Honiton - colour dominance
But (at least in torchon or other laces with a regular grid/pin spacing) in a cloth stitch area with all the passives the same colour, surely there will be almost the same amount of each colour thread in the finished block? n passives doing 1 row each = 1 worker doing n rows Beth (Cheshire, NW England) On 06/01/13 08:01, Lorelei Halley wrote: Robin and Susan The weaver color dominates simply because there is more of it. Look here for an example. http://lynxlace.com/images/r29o.jpg Tensioning doesn't have anything to do with it. Lorelei - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] more Honiton - colour dominance
Beth If you look at the photo in the link I gave you will see how the weaver color affects the appearance of each diamond or lozenge in cloth stitch. Even in half stitch, the weaver color, if consistent, dominates the color of the section. http://lynxlace.com/images/17BLA8.JPG http://lynxlace.com/images-h-det-diag/halfstitch.JPG http://lynxlace.com/images/r29sql10.jpg I am not talking about hypotheticals, but about affects that I have noticed after they happened. Lorelei - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] more Honiton the horns of a dilemma
Hello All! Egad, you would think with all these questions that I had never taken a class or consulted more than one text! I do believe I've found every sticking point. Is there a rationale for starting on the right side or left side when beginning at a point? To help decide, should I count the pins before starting, thereby starting on the side with more pins? I'm working on #2 Ribbed Flower in the Lace Guild UK booklet had to add a pin hole in two different spots to make it all work out on the first set of leaves. Not what the designer had in mind, I'm sure! Now that I'm on leaf #3 at the stem I've got the same issue. So--if there's an uneven number of pins between two sides of a shape (in this case the leaf), should I make the 1st pin (after the point) on the longer side? The ribbed flower is a cute little shape that I've enlarged so I can see what I'm doing (!!) plus work in color. Which brings up the question, how do I change colors from my green ribbed (ten s! tick) stem to a flower color for the ribbed floral section? Can I simply add throw out in the same row in ten stick? Oh dear, I'm well above my pay grade yet again, but I'd love to have a red flower! If anyone can help, I'd appreciate suggestions. Sincerely, Susan Hottle, Palm Beach Gardens, FL USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] more Honiton
Susan When starting a leaf at a point, usually one of the pins below the top point pin will be a little closer to the top. That is the direction to weave in for your first row. Some you weave to the left, some to the right. Go for the highest pin first. Honiton technique was not intended for work in color, so the typical movements don't account for color changes, just how to get from A to B. That said, there is no reason why you can't experiment and see what happens. One thing to remember is that when weaving a cloth stitch area, whichever bobbins serve as the weavers will dominate the color appearance. So if you have one or 2 passive pairs that are green, in a flower, they may not matter much. So long as your weaver and 2 edge pairs are petal colors (because these 3 take turns as weavers) it won't matter so much what color the others are. (There is a piece at the Art Institute of Chicago which has plaid flowers because of this fact.) The other alternative is to abandon the idea of following the Honiton method of trying to make threads move from the leaf into the flower. Instead, work each part as a separate unit and attach them by sewings. Leaves and stems could be one unit. Flowers would each be their own unit. Lorelei - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] more Honiton
Lorelei Halley lhal...@bytemeusa.com wrote: One thing to remember is that when weaving a cloth stitch area, whichever bobbins serve as the weavers will dominate the color appearance. So if you have one or 2 passive pairs that are green, in a flower, they may not matter much. So long as your weaver and 2 edge pairs are petal colors (because these 3 take turns as weavers) it won't matter so much what color the others are. (There is a piece at the Art Institute of Chicago which has plaid flowers because of this fact.)- It's not necessarily true that the weaver dominates the passives. It depends on tensioning. Whichever threads get pulled more tightly will be straighter, causing the threads going the other direction to be wavy (go up and down to get around the straight-line ones. The wavy threads are more visible while the straight-line threads are pushed down below the wavy ones. If you pull tightly on your passives and just ease the worker around the pin, the passive colors will be less noticeable. On the other hand, if you tug firmly on the worker/weaver at the pin while very gently straightening the passives, the passives will go up and down while the worker goes arrow-straight. The passive color will then be dominant over the worker color. Now, with Honiton-size threads you're not really tugging anything all that hard, but you can still exert some control over which threads (worker/weavers or passives) dominate. Another way to control whether passive color or worker color dominates is to vary the thickness--a slightly thicker worker will dominate a slightly thinner passive, and vice versa. Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA robinl...@socal.rr.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
