Re: [lace] Machine lace and its manufacture

[Maureen]

David

the list in Gillian's book, it appears there were 11 ships according to the NSW 
Immigration Boards List.

Maureen
E Yorks UK


> On 26 May 2018, at 17:36, Maureen  wrote:
> 
> David
> 
> According to Gillian Kelly's book there were a lot more ships than three, but 
> it seemed the Australian government didn't want them as Lacemakers so the 
> lacemaking  machines were left in Calais.  The website 'The Australian 
> Lacemakers of Calais' gives a lot of information on the subject.  And then, 
> as you say, the goldrush happened.   If you can read Gillian's book 'Well 
> Suited to the Colony' you will find it very interesting.
> 
> Maureen
> E Yorks UK
> 
> 
> 

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Re: [lace] Machine lace and its manufacture

[Maureen]

David

According to Gillian Kelly's book there were a lot more ships than three, but 
it seemed the Australian government didn't want them as Lacemakers so the 
lacemaking  machines were left in Calais.  The website 'The Australian 
Lacemakers of Calais' gives a lot of information on the subject.  And then, as 
you say, the goldrush happened.   If you can read Gillian's book 'Well Suited 
to the Colony' you will find it very interesting.

Maureen
E Yorks UK

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RE: [lace] Machine lace and its manufacture

[David C Collyer]

Devon,
I suppose that as we enjoy the lavish handmade flounces of mid-century royal 
lace, we should spare a thought for the English machine lace makers who were 
collateral damage, forced to become farm hands in Australia.

My understanding is that there were 3 shiploads of lace makers from Calais. The 
people from them settled in Adelaide, Sth Australia and Maitland in NSW. Their 
intention was to establish a lace making community but then in 1851 the gold 
rushes happened and they all dispersed.
David Downunder in AUS

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Re: [lace] Machine lace and its manufacture

[Jane Partridge]

Having had a quick look down the Guild's library catalogue, I'm fairly certain 
it was this one "MASON S A Nottingham Lace 1760s to 1950s" - which is about the 
machine lace industry, and I do remember nothing was in the title about hosiery.

Jane Partridge

From: Devon Thein <devonth...@gmail.com>

Subject: Re: [lace] Machine lace and its manufacture

I would like to suggest that it is William Felkin's book, A history of
the machine-wrought hosiery and lace manufactures that Jane is
referencing. It is written in a very amusing style in 1867.

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RE: [lace] Machine lace and its manufacture

[Maureen]

Dear Jane, Devon and others

Jane and your email sent me scuttling to get my book out, Well Suited to the 
Colony  by Gillian Kelly.  The Naponic War ended in 1814 and it is believed 
that the first lace machine was smuggled into Calais in 1815.  Until then the 
English were not welcome in France. This is St Pierre le Calais and not Calais 
as we know it today as the inhabitants of Calais asked that the machines were 
moved from Calais as they were noisy. By 1824 there were 412 English living in 
Calais and by 1841 this had increased to 1420.  At that time the machines were 
making net for decoration in Paris,  more than likely tambour as it was not 
until the 1830s a man named Jacquard provided the help and information to 
enable lace to be made on a machine.  As a result of  the French Revolution the 
lacemakers left Calais in 1848 and had a four month trip[ to Australia.  
Approximately 1000 people emigrated to Australia to take up new lives, most had 
their fare paid under the 'Bounty' system but some funded it!
  themselves.  Ironically they did not take their machines with them and became 
general labourers, farm hands etc in Australia.   See the website of The 
Australian Lacemakers of Calais, which was set up in 1982 as people started to 
research their ancesters,   which gives more information.

I have several hundred photos from Gillian Kelly as well as information and 
photos from the then Chairman Richard Lander as I was giving talks etc about 
the subject.  They both answered lots of questions for me and were extremely 
helpful and happy for the stories to be told in the UK.   

I think I did a review of the book in about 2007 and then wrote an article, 
which had drawings with it but not by me,  giving further info etc for the Lace 
Guild a few months later.Anyone who was in the Lace Guild at that time will 
have seen the article and book review.

I can give further information etc but must dash as I have to collect youngest 
granddaughter from school.

Maureen
E Yorks UK

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Re: [lace] Machine lace and its manufacture

[Devon Thein]

I would like to suggest that it is William Felkin's book, A history of
the machine-wrought hosiery and lace manufactures that Jane is
referencing. It is written in a very amusing style in 1867.
I am quite interested in the example of lace that Alex posted on her
site that is part handmade and part machine with embroidery. We were
just looking at a piece in the museum, 08.180.260
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search#!?q=08.180.260=20=Relevance=asc=0=0
Elena, who was interning with us then, pointed out that it was machine
made! What was interesting was that there were two parts to it, like
the piece on Alex's blog. there was a larger area of a machine mesh
which look sort of like cat stitch, and then a border of a finer
machine mesh which is exactly like point ground. (Recognizing point
ground made by machine is something I would like to learn how to do,
since the thread movements are often identical, I don't know how to
figure this out.) The surprise to me was that they were making two
different meshes on the machine, then embrodering them. For some
reason, I had assumed that we went from a plain tulle to the ability
to do flowers, without gimp, and then finally to flowers with gimp.
The concept that they were setting up the machines to do two adjacent
different grounds and then handing them off to the hand embroiderers
was news to me. Then, I looked at the Felkin book and saw something
similar on Plate XII.Then I remembered that we had seen something
similar in a salt print by the famous photographer Henry Fox Talbot.
He had made a photo of a piece of lace in 1845 Here is a link
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/289186?sortBy=Relevanceft=Henry+Fox+Talbot+laceoffset=0rpp=20pos=1
In fact I saw something similar in another Henry Fox Talbot salt print
book up at Yale, but didn't get a photo of it.
It is possible that Henry Fox Talbot was taking a photo of a piece of
lace that was made far in the past, since presumably he didn't care
what era the lace was. But, I asked Gunnel what she thought the date
on the piece was and she said 1830s. I always think of the big blondes
as being 1830s, so I guess i need to go back and look at the smaller
borders of that era .Are they typically characterized by two different
meshes side by side?
Seeing Alex's piece where they attached a strip of the handmade to the
embroidered mesh is very interesting. It is clearly a period of
intense experimentation.
Yes, it was quite likely the same people transitioning from hand
lacemaking to embroidering net.
Devon
PS. I think it was the Napoleonic Wars, not the French Revolution that
was the instigation for expelling English lace workers from France.

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