RE: [lace] colour in lace etc.

2004-03-26 Thread Patricia Dowden
Sharon wrote:

> I must know...what thread was Miriam using to do colour in her
> Honiton? :)  I've always thought honiton screams for very subtle
> colouring..is there coloured thread out there that is fine enough?  If 
> there
> is, I wants it!:)

The finest coloured cootn thread I know of is Tanne/Cotona 80 - same 
thickness as Egyptian gassed
80/2.  If you want colour in finer than that it would have to be silk.  
Piper's Fine Twisted silk comes in colours and compares to Egyptian 
Gassed 140/2

Brenda


===

Bjarne has 120 (3 ply) and 250 (3 ply) unboiled silk in colors.  I have several of the 
colors and it is wonderfully fine and wonderfully strong.

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/silkefarver.htm

Also Piper's Silks has Fine Twisted Silk, 2/20, 4/20, 6/20 in colors.

http://www.pipers-silks.com/


2/20 silk, now that's what I call invisible thread!

Patty Dowden

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RE: [lace] colour in lace etc.

2004-03-26 Thread Patricia Dowden
Sharon wrote:

> I must know...what thread was Miriam using to do colour in her
> Honiton? :)  I've always thought honiton screams for very subtle
> colouring..is there coloured thread out there that is fine enough?  If 
> there
> is, I wants it!:)

The finest coloured cootn thread I know of is Tanne/Cotona 80 - same 
thickness as Egyptian gassed
80/2.  If you want colour in finer than that it would have to be silk.  
Piper's Fine Twisted silk comes in colours and compares to Egyptian 
Gassed 140/2

Brenda


===

Bjarne has 120 (3 ply) and 250 (3 ply) unboiled silk in colors.  I have several of the 
colors and it is wonderfully fine and wonderfully strong.

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Re: [lace] colour in lace etc.

2004-03-26 Thread Brenda Paternoster
On 25 Mar 2004, at 19:20, rick &sharon wrote:

I must know...what thread was Miriam using to do colour in her
Honiton? :)  I've always thought honiton screams for very subtle
colouring..is there coloured thread out there that is fine enough?  If 
there
is, I wants it!:)
The finest coloured cootn thread I know of is Tanne/Cotona 80 - same 
thickness as Egyptian gassed
80/2.  If you want colour in finer than that it would have to be silk.  
Piper's Fine Twisted silk comes in colours and compares to Egyptian 
Gassed 140/2

Brenda
http://www.argonet.co.uk/users/paternoster/
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Re: [lace] colour in lace etc.

2004-03-26 Thread Laceandbits
In a message dated 25/03/2004 19:31:33 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

> how does Fimo work for making beads for spangles?

Some of my very first painted bobbins bought in the early 1980s came with 
Fimo beads colour co-ordinated with the painting and they still look like new 
after 20 years.  They are a matt finish having not been varnished, but now I work 
with Fimo myself I know that by using the very fine wet and dry polishing 
papers it is possible to get a mirror-like surface.   Time consuming though and 
not practical for a commercial enterprise with cost restraints, but for a few 
beads that you are making for your own special bobbins it is worth it.  Lots of 
polymer clay sites on the internet and a quick google search will find them.

Jacquie

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Re: Re [lace] colour in lace etc.

2004-03-25 Thread Barbara Ballantyne
The effect of dyes appears to be quite marked in the rayon sold as crochet
silk to day.

The pale colours are soft and good to work with but the dark blues and black
in the range are so harsh that I would not use them.

I have a black shawl in black rayon from many years ago and it is delightful
both in appearance and the "drape".  I have looked without success for
thread to work a similar one.

Barbara Ballantyne
in Sunny Sydney, australia
- Original Message - 
From: "Patricia Dowden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2004 9:48 AM
Subject: Re [lace] colour in lace etc.


> . . .
> About green threads.  I knew a lady who wanted to clean an antique
> embroidery, which she did very gently and very carefully in distilled
water.
> The whole thing turned out beautifully except the green.  It  just
> disintegrated and not a hair was left.  At the time I wondered whether it
> was the chemical composition of the dye itself.  I have run up against
this
> a couple of times since with things I have bought at flea markets, and
it's
> always the green thread that falls apart.  Interesting.
> Sharon
>
> =
> Hi Sharon,
>
> I have to think that it is the chemical composition of the green dye
stuff.  A friend of mine used to make kites from ripstop nylon fabric.  In
spite of being the same fabric in the same weight from the same
manufacturer, the hand of the fabric differed by color rather dramatically.
As I recall, the yellow was quite stiff and the purple was soft and flowing.
>
> We know that the black dyes used in the 19th century are eating the
fabrics they were applied to because of their iron oxide content.  That
means that most Chantilly is slowly dy(e)ing and is already mostly too
fragile to actually wear.
>
> Modern dye manufacture is often stymied by ecological constraints into
using less than optimal formulations. It seems to me that probably something
in the green dye stuffs (some mineral oxide in a solvent) are not easy to
bring to a neutral or near neutral state or that once stable, they degrade
over time, which also probably means that they oxidize.
>
> Oddly, since I like to make lace in wire, a nice bright royal blue wire is
non-existent.  Maybe for the same kind of reason.  Modern enamelled wire is
actually coated with polyester much of the time.  In any case, it isn't
really enamel and doesn't come in a nice bright blue.
>
> End of musings . . .
>
> Patty
>
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Re [lace] colour in lace etc.

2004-03-25 Thread Patricia Dowden
. . .
About green threads.  I knew a lady who wanted to clean an antique
embroidery, which she did very gently and very carefully in distilled water.
The whole thing turned out beautifully except the green.  It  just
disintegrated and not a hair was left.  At the time I wondered whether it
was the chemical composition of the dye itself.  I have run up against this
a couple of times since with things I have bought at flea markets, and it's
always the green thread that falls apart.  Interesting.   
Sharon 

=
Hi Sharon,

I have to think that it is the chemical composition of the green dye stuff.  A friend 
of mine used to make kites from ripstop nylon fabric.  In spite of being the same 
fabric in the same weight from the same manufacturer, the hand of the fabric differed 
by color rather dramatically.  As I recall, the yellow was quite stiff and the purple 
was soft and flowing.

We know that the black dyes used in the 19th century are eating the fabrics they were 
applied to because of their iron oxide content.  That means that most Chantilly is 
slowly dy(e)ing and is already mostly too fragile to actually wear.

Modern dye manufacture is often stymied by ecological constraints into using less than 
optimal formulations. It seems to me that probably something in the green dye stuffs 
(some mineral oxide in a solvent) are not easy to bring to a neutral or near neutral 
state or that once stable, they degrade over time, which also probably means that they 
oxidize.

Oddly, since I like to make lace in wire, a nice bright royal blue wire is 
non-existent.  Maybe for the same kind of reason.  Modern enamelled wire is actually 
coated with polyester much of the time.  In any case, it isn't really enamel and 
doesn't come in a nice bright blue.

End of musings . . . 

Patty

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