Re: [lace] thread/yarn question

2010-08-21 Thread Susan Reishus

"One trouble with using yards per pound is that thickness (density of 
the
fabric, with a given needle size) and weight (pounds per yard) are 
only
correlated when comparing the same fiber.  Now that there are so 
many
materials used for yarn (many different animals, a variety of 
plants, and all
sorts of synthetics), the yarn you want to substitute 
for a pattern may have
the same ypp but be totally unsuitable in the 
density of the resulting
fabric."  Robin


***
I agree with your comment, but that applies to most everything, as most
beginning knitters don't consider "hand" (which includes drape), much less
making something of a different color or fiber than the model garment. 
Knitting (and esp. lace knitting/knitted lace) is so much more 3D than some
are used to thinking, as a designer is always thinking of the end product and
how it will look on the wearer, vs. choosing a design one likes visually, or
because it is a "knit" they want to or think they can do.  The drape and hand
is a critical part of determining that end result.

The old rule in choosing a needle size, was to begin with the same diameter as
the yarn (though at that time, things were knit more tightly), and move up in
size from there.  With lace, there is a very loose rule of at least 3 sizes
more than typically used with that weight of yarn, but the stitch pattern
itself, hand of the fiber, along with the design and personage,
application/use, and body type of the person (even seasonal considerations),
affect that outcome.   Naturally if you use sea-cell, your garment will change
at a smaller percentage than with a springy sock yarn, which will stretch out
to lose all of that, and increase size dramatically.  Then again someone may
want a sturdy functional piece in say worsted, that is machine laundered and
put on again, sans dressing, so the needle size will have to be considerably
larger than is typical (and need to be processed that way to determine the
outcome accurately.)

The main thing is test-knitting (which for decades people tended to avoid, and
could get away with more of doing baby clothes and afghans).  It becomes
tantamount to the success of the garment, and especially so with lace
(critical criteria is that it is wet dressed as a part of that process.)  So
many lace knitters state how surprised they are at how the garment has changed
once washed/wet, and dressed/blocked.  The general rule is that a wet dressed
lace garment will increase in size approximately 30% or more.  Shawls are
often dressed tauter than say a lace sweater or dress.  Lots of variables,
which most find adds to the thrill (and of course shawls and scarves are
no-fit garments, which also contributes to their popularity.)  

Of course you knew all of that, but if it is of general interest or help to
someone...

Best,
Susan Reishus
www.SusanReishusDesigns.com
 

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Re: [lace] thread/yarn question

2010-08-20 Thread Susan Reishus
International yarn standards have tried to be created in the recent past for
knitting yarns, and most superfine, include fingering/sock as the heaviest in
that category, which is very roughly equivalent to #10 crochet cotton.  They
are evidenced by recent publications, the same as your quotes. 

Size 3 needles to me, would indicate something roughly half the thickness of
fingering, and that category often stops just short of cobweb weight. 
Sometimes it is easiest to look up online, the yarn the designer used, and
then look for similar yardage/weight comps.  I would suggest something like
Jaggerspun Zephyr for that pattern.  (Incidentally, you could knit the Forest
Path Stole by Faine Letoutchaia in cobweb, as I remember the 
width of it
being something like 22", which is more than ample than most
 since the
average base of neck to waist measurement is 17", so many 
stoles are in that
18-20" range.)

Note also, that wet dressing/blocking the swatch is nearly paramount in
determining outcome, especially with lace knitting.  Many knitters for
instance, use Jaggerspun Zephyr with size 4 needles, and aren't tight
knitters.

There are laceweights such as Misti Alpaca, and cousins of it (often blended
with silk) sold by other vendors, but the halo means you need to 'up' the
needle size again. 

In the old tradition; fingering doubled was sport, and sport doubled was
worsted, and worsted doubled was Aran.  The term 'baby' can be confusing, as
some list it slightly thinner than fingering (now including sock), some had it
slightly thicker, and often baby yarn via cute names from vendors, was
actually sport (or a baby bulky).  Most include baby now within the
fingering/sock category, and 4 ply from the UK, is between US fingering and
sport weight. 

With knitting's resurgence, the lines have blurred so much with export/import
and popularity, misunderstanding each other's terms, etc., wpi (wraps per
inch) were not a clear determinate, so they went to this newer system.  There
are those pushing that yarn be categorized specifically like threads, more
like ypp (yards per pound) and finer determinates (the terminology escapes
me), but most feel that would be overwhelming and off-putting to the average
yarn consumer who crochets and/or knits.

HTH,
Susan Reishus

***

"in Brenda's article on yarns, the "official" numbering system lists
"fingering" under #0 (lace weight), #1 (sock weight), and #3 (DK weight). 

I think decades ago (in the US), the main categories of yarn were "worsted"
(4-ply), "sport" (3-ply), and "baby" (2-ply).  I also remember the term
"fingering", but don't remember if it was sized with...("Forest Path Stole" by
Faina Letoutchaia, in the book "The Best of Interweave Knits") that has me
confused.  It says to use "fingering weight (#1 Super Fine)" and size 3 (3.25
mm) needles..." Robin P

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Re: [lace] thread/yarn question

2010-08-18 Thread robinlace
Brenda Paternoster  wrote: 
>From what I understand of the American terms for knitting yarns 'sock yarn and 
>fingering are similar, if not the same.

That's the way I've understood the terms.  However, in Brenda's article on 
yarns, the "official" numbering system lists "fingering" under #0 (lace 
weight), #1 (sock weight), and #3 (DK weight).  

I think decades ago (in the US), the main categories of yarn were "worsted" 
(4-ply), "sport" (3-ply), and "baby" (2-ply).  I also remember the term 
"fingering", but don't remember if it was sized with "sport" or with "baby" in 
those days.  In those days, yarn was either wool or acrylic, and there were 
none of the eyelash, lurex, furry, etc. things we can get now.

You'd think the new number system would make it easy.  But I am looking at a 
knitted lace pattern ("Forest Path Stole" by Faina Letoutchaia, in the book 
"The Best of Interweave Knits") that has me confused.  It says to use 
"fingering weight (#1 Super Fine)" and size 3 (3.25 mm) needles.  Now, I was 
just knitting with sock yarn on #3 needles and it's not lacy at all--if you 
stretch the swatch (like blocking) you can see the holes, but the stitches 
between the holes are quite solid.  The pictures of this shawl show a much 
lacier piece, with a lot of visibility even in the "solid" areas.  It has to be 
done with lace weight yarn (#0), not sock yarn (#1).  Crazy!

Robin P.
Los Angeles, California, USA
robinl...@socal.rr.com

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Re: [lace] thread/yarn question

2010-08-18 Thread Brenda Paternoster
>From what I understand of the American terms for knitting yarns 'sock yarn and 
>fingering are similar, if not the same.

I vaguely remember from years ago when my Grandma used to knit socks for my Dad 
she used 3 ply wool which was described on the label as 'fingering' but I never 
really knew what it meant.  I *think* fingering was originally about the way 
the wool was spun rather than about thickness; much the same as worsted really 
means wool which is carded and combed and therefore smother than wool which is 
just carded, but in American terminology it now now relates to the thickness of 
the finished yarn.

Another website (American) which lists various yarns according to the 
recommended finished knitting tension is
http://www.yarnforward.com/yarn.html

Brenda

On 18 Aug 2010, at 21:26, Margery Allcock wrote:

> So is "sock yarn" the same thing as "fingering"?

Brenda in Allhallows
www.brendapaternoster.me.uk

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RE: [lace] thread/yarn question

2010-08-18 Thread Susie Rose
Hello to One & All!

In a word...Yes. Fingerling & sock yarn are the same sized yarn.  

On the needles: Civil War Circular Shawl - cobweb wt yarn with 214,889 sts 
total in the shawl.

Working on a pair of socks in fingerling/sock wt to submit to Knitty.com for 
their next issue.

Working on a pink ribbon BL bookmark for my etsy store.

Make it happen!

Susie Rose

On Wed Aug 18th, 2010 1:26 PM PDT Margery Allcock wrote:

>That's really useful, and interesting - thank you, Brenda.
>
>So is "sock yarn" the same thing as "fingering"?
>
>Margery.
>=
>margerybu...@o2.co.uk in North Hertfordshire, UK
>=
> 
> 
> 
>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] 
>> On Behalf Of Brenda Paternoster
>> Sent: Wednesday 18 August 2010 18:44
>> To: Whitham, Irene & Steve
>> Cc: lace@arachne.com
>> Subject: Re: [lace] thread/yarn question
>> 
>> Hello Irene
>> 
>> Have a look at
>> http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/knittingyarns.htm
>> 
>> Brenda
>> 
>> On 18 Aug 2010, at 15:42, Whitham, Irene & Steve wrote:
>> 
>> > 
>> > Could someone please be so kind and tell me how many wraps 
>> per cm, fingering
>> > or sock weight yarn is?
>> > 
>> > I have a pattern calling for either and have a nice linen 
>> that is 10 wraps per
>> > cm.
>> 
>> Brenda in Allhallows
>> www.brendapaternoster.me.uk
>> 
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>> To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing 
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>
>-
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RE: [lace] thread/yarn question

2010-08-18 Thread Margery Allcock
That's really useful, and interesting - thank you, Brenda.

So is "sock yarn" the same thing as "fingering"?

Margery.
=
margerybu...@o2.co.uk in North Hertfordshire, UK
=
 
 
 

> -Original Message-
> From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] 
> On Behalf Of Brenda Paternoster
> Sent: Wednesday 18 August 2010 18:44
> To: Whitham, Irene & Steve
> Cc: lace@arachne.com
> Subject: Re: [lace] thread/yarn question
> 
> Hello Irene
> 
> Have a look at
> http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/knittingyarns.htm
> 
> Brenda
> 
> On 18 Aug 2010, at 15:42, Whitham, Irene & Steve wrote:
> 
> > 
> > Could someone please be so kind and tell me how many wraps 
> per cm, fingering
> > or sock weight yarn is?
> > 
> > I have a pattern calling for either and have a nice linen 
> that is 10 wraps per
> > cm.
> 
> Brenda in Allhallows
> www.brendapaternoster.me.uk
> 
> -
> To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing 
> the line:
> unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
> arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
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Re: [lace] thread/yarn question

2010-08-18 Thread Whitham, Irene & Steve

Brenda, thank you so much!

Irene Whitham
Surrey, BC

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Re: [lace] thread/yarn question

2010-08-18 Thread Brenda Paternoster
Hello Irene

Have a look at
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/knittingyarns.htm

Brenda

On 18 Aug 2010, at 15:42, Whitham, Irene & Steve wrote:

> 
> Could someone please be so kind and tell me how many wraps per cm, fingering
> or sock weight yarn is?
> 
> I have a pattern calling for either and have a nice linen that is 10 wraps per
> cm.

Brenda in Allhallows
www.brendapaternoster.me.uk

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