Re: A piece flew off my Barley twist!! What to do about it.

[info]

What a great save!  It's a good thing you know how to do woodworking as 
opposed to the client.  I guess I would have offered to supply the 
materials myself just to avoid the problems of someone not knowing what you 
were going to have to do to that wood.  He made your job three times as 
hard for you.

DRF

On Friday, July 21, 2017 at 11:58:36 PM UTC-7, LILtwisted wrote:
>
> It all started with the customer sending me a picture in a text.  I sent 
> him a quote and heard nothing.
>
>
> 4 months later he said it's a go, and he said he would glue the material 
> together.  I told him to make sure there was paper in between the halves so 
> it would be an easy split after milling.  I usually use a thick paper like 
> what is found in a brown grocery bag but enter problem number 1, he used 
> printer paper.  Then it was size time.  I drew a little bit on the chalk 
> board with some real numbers and set off to make it happen.
>
> I started by rounding off the stock.  Then with a 3 in classical bit to 
> make a rim to meet the square ends and then decided on a 3 inch Barley with 
> 3 starts on a 9 inch pitch.  All was going well until I heard POWWW!
>
> Yup, instead of gluing the entire surface of each board, they used a 
> zig-zag drizzle and hoped the clamps would squeeze it around.  Didn't work 
> and now I have pieces flying off this thing.
>
> So I started Super Gluing the cracks and made a pattern by pressing a 
> piece of paper onto the flat left behind by the mishap.
>
> Then transferred it onto a board, cut it out, fit it and then glued it.
>
> Then back to work on the Barley and then finish off with the classical bit 
> to clean off the other side of the glued on piece.
>
> Next I trimmed the ends with a straight bit as far as I could and ended up 
> looking like this.
>
> Then the fun part, busting it open with a shingle hatchet!
>
> You can see the poor glue coverage in the seam.  In this case it helped 
> me.  If it was glued solid, the thinner paper used would have caused too 
> much resistance and it may have started to pull some wood apart.  Luck for 
> me, it was a crappy glue job.
>
> Now we have to cut the ends off without touching the outer edge with the 
> band saw.  If you put a screw on the flat side, it will hold the wood at an 
> angle.  I don't like to change the table angle to do this because I have 
> the saw at 90º perfect and don't want to re-adjust it.  
>
> This will hold the stock on enough of an angle to cut the plug and not mar 
> the outer edge.  
>
> Here is the finish product.  Notice all the super glue was milled away.  
> After about 20 min of sanding and running the back paper off through a 
> joiner, they are finished.  The blocked ends will be added at the job site.
>
> So don't worry if things start going south.  Glue pieces back on if you 
> can or make new pieces and re-mill them.  It's only a mistake if you quit 
> before you fix it.  You just got to get better at fixing little issues.  
> Oh, and I'm not going to trust their glue joints anymore.  LOL
>
> Mike OK
>
>
>
>

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Re: Wiring diagram

[Richard Ellis]

Bill
Yes it's on a lead but where to hook it is the problem.
The control box that came with the Woodchuck has the lead coming out of the 
top. had a look inside to see if it is possible to change it,no 
way---unless I change the box, The wires are the problem if I mount on a 
swinging jib or even hang from the ceiling   Always ready to catch. 
Funny enough it was easier to place the box on the Woodchucks rails??   
However nothing is impossible!! 
Cheers Richard,  OH!! no news on the holes but plenty re: electrics

On Saturday, July 22, 2017 at 12:52:58 AM UTC+1, aussiman wrote:
>
> Why not have the controller floating on a lead and hook it where ever you 
> standing at the time
>
>  
>
> Bill 
>
>  
>
> *From:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  [mailto:
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com ] *On Behalf Of 
> *Richard 
> Ellis
> *Sent:* Saturday, 22 July 2017 3:33 AM
> *To:* Legacy Ornamental Mills
> *Subject:* Re: Wiring diagram
>
>  
>
> Tim
>
> The drive motor is on but I just can't think where to put the control box. 
> Looks like it's going to be on the carriage -- but a bit prone to 
> get damaged in that position.
>
> The way I have the Revo mounted- it is fastened to a 3/4 " sheet of 
> good ply. That in it's turn in bolted to my workbench---a bolt at each 
> end.That allows me to swing the Revo out at rt.angles to my workbench, 
> if I remove one of the bolts. When at 90 degrees it gives me access to my 
> under  bench Router.
>
> Cheers
>
> Richard 
>
> On Friday, July 21, 2017 at 2:33:34 PM UTC+1, Tim wrote:
>
> Keep us posted.
>
> On Jul 21, 2017, at 2:50 AM, Richard Ellis  wrote:
>
> Tim
>
> That lovejoy sounds a good idea, I have had other machines that used that 
> system . It is a Dayton that I am changing from the Woodchuck to the Revo  
>
> Little bit of metal lathe work,welding and drilling fixing plates etc. 
> Easy job. Limit switches will need changing,awful type but that is about 
> all.
>
> So the Woodchuck will now be the one to have a new control for the 
> leadscrew. On hold for now.
>
> More later, when I have finished the conversion, it should make the Revo a 
> better tool. then it's back to wiring up the Woodchuck, that is for later 
> when I get all the components.
>
> Cheers
>
> Richard
>
> On Friday, July 21, 2017 at 9:54:01 AM UTC+1, Tim wrote:
>
> Hahahaha, yes about the voltage but everyone knows it's the amps that 
> kill! 
>
> So if you are working with the old woodchuck system, it uses a 90vdc 
> motor.  I would think the motor would still have the name plate.  The 
> motors where mostly sourced through a company called Dayton and sold here 
> in the states at a company called Grainger's.  
>
> The potentiometer is actually the speed and voltage converter.  It's been 
> discontinued for a long time.  Take a look inside the box, it's really 
> simple.
>
> The newer machines have a LoveJoy connector on the end of the shaft. It 
> has two metal components with rubber spider in between them.  For reference 
> https://catalog.farmchem.com/l09558 .  It works well.  The motor side 
> coupler slides away for free spinning.  The other side connects to a 5/8" 
> shaft that connects to the lead screw with a solid coupler.  Does that make 
> sense?  I think I can find a photo if you need one.
>
> Hope that helps a little.  
>
> Tim
>
> Sent from BlueMail  
>
> On Jul 20, 2017, at 11:41 PM, Richard Ellis  wrote:
>
> Tim
>
> Thanks for the answer, If there has been no wiring diagram for the Legacy, 
> that is all I needed to know. I was a little surprised that no one asked 
> what power voltage I was thinking of using, could have been 12 or 24 volt 
> dc as i;e Windscreen wiper motors,.I don't think that would kill me ! ! !?? 
>
> I did smile to myself re the safety lessons, all good knowledge and I do 
> not get offended, so thanks to the others who responded.
>
> NOW ! Yesterday I started changing the Drive unit from the old Woodchuck 
> to the Revo. It is 110 volt of course and runs through the transformer 240 
> volt  The end of the leadscrew had been just cut off and the collar 
> complete with grub screw fastened,-- not good engineering in my 
> book,-hit and miss as to where the grub screw grips??
>
> More about it later
>
> Richard
>
> On Thursday, July 20, 2017 at 11:29:19 PM UTC+1, Tim wrote:
>
> Well I knew my generic answer was not going to be enough.  I'm not aware 
> of a wiring diagram for the legacy drive system.  It was all pre-wired and 
> the manuals only showed where to and how to mount the components to the 
> machine.
>
> Since you are familiar with electronic, I'm not sure where you need help.  
> I can't give you a wiring diagram for components that I don't know that you 
> are using.  
>
> Tim
>
> Sent from BlueMail  
>
> On Jul 20, 2017, at 4:46 AM, Richard Ellis  wrote:
>
>