RE: New Members and Moderation - Tracy

[Bill Bulkeley]

Another idea for the one odd baluster might be the pineapple pattern that’s a 
right and left hand rope spirals on the same post forming a pineapple like 
pattern

 

Bill

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tracy Smith
Sent: Wednesday, 15 August 2018 12:06 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: New Members and Moderation - Tracy

 

Hi Mac,

 

Thanks to all the great gazebos out there and the videos from Legacy, each of 
your points I've already included in my plans and work so far.  I didn't even 
think about the twists turning both directions until I heard it mentioned in 
one of Legacy's videos.  It makes perfect sense.  I've attached a picture of 
all my rope twist balusters.  There are eight turning clockwise and eight 
turning counter clockwise.  There are an odd number of balusters in each rail 
to specifically allows for a "transition" baluster with a unique design.

 

The spacing between the balusters is the same as the baluster (3.5").  I very 
intentionally chose a more girthy design with bigger balusters, rails and posts 
than what I have typically seen.  It's more about personal preference than 
anything else.

 

Thanks for the detailed feedback.

Tracy

 

 

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 12:12 AM, MWF  wrote:

Hello Tracy,

 

Thanks for the "intro".  You have come to the right place to get help and to 
share your skills & knowledge.

If you provide us with the city/community where you live - you may find there 
is a Group Member within a reasonable drive distance.

 

You mentioned you may be turning the balusters on your Mill.  Give thought to 
turning half with a clock-wise spiral and the other half with a counter 
clock-wise spiral.  Then, when assembling each railing section install 
clock-wise balusters on one half and counter clock-wise ones on the the other 
half.  If you space them such that you have an odd number of them on the 
railing you can make the center baluster a non-spiral - perhaps a fluted or a 
simple tapered one.  Regarding the spacing between balusters, keep in mind that 
most building codes require any "opening" (gap/spacing) between balusters not 
exceed (or be less than) 4.0 inches.  For what it's worth, there is no need for 
your balusters to be 4x4" stock (that's huge).  Most deck/proch/gazebo railings 
I encounter are the "standard" 2"x2" (or 1 1/2" x 1 1/2").  Using the smaller 
size should save you a fair bit of cash as well as being much easier to 
handle/install.

 

Welcome to The Group.

Mac

 

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Re: New member - Stan Partin

[Dexter Bland]

Stan,
Manual and other project info sent to your email. It will be like drinking 
from a firehose for a while. 
Good luck.
db

> -Original Message- 
> From: stanpar...@charter.net 
> Sent: Aug 13, 2018 8:41 PM 
> To: Legacy Ornamental Mills 
> Subject: New member 
>
> Hello everyone,
>  he was unable to locate the owners/set up manualAssistance in 
> this matter would be much appreciated.
>
>

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Re: New Members and Moderation - Tracy

['Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills]

 Hello TracyNice job on the Balusters.
Have you seen Mikes video on carriage indexing? 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjcFpO51upw=32s  (His methods have helped me 
a lot over the years.) I hope this video helps you?
C.A.G.
On Tuesday, August 14, 2018, 10:05:56 AM EDT, Tracy Smith 
 wrote:  
 
 Hi Mac,
Thanks to all the great gazebos out there and the videos from Legacy, each of 
your points I've already included in my plans and work so far.  I didn't even 
think about the twists turning both directions until I heard it mentioned in 
one of Legacy's videos.  It makes perfect sense.  I've attached a picture of 
all my rope twist balusters.  There are eight turning clockwise and eight 
turning counter clockwise.  There are an odd number of balusters in each rail 
to specifically allows for a "transition" baluster with a unique design.
The spacing between the balusters is the same as the baluster (3.5").  I very 
intentionally chose a more girthy design with bigger balusters, rails and posts 
than what I have typically seen.  It's more about personal preference than 
anything else.
Thanks for the detailed feedback.Tracy

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 12:12 AM, MWF  wrote:

Hello Tracy,
Thanks for the "intro".  You have come to the right place to get help and to 
share your skills & knowledge.If you provide us with the city/community where 
you live - you may find there is a Group Member within a reasonable drive 
distance.
You mentioned you may be turning the balusters on your Mill.  Give thought to 
turning half with a clock-wise spiral and the other half with a counter 
clock-wise spiral.  Then, when assembling each railing section install 
clock-wise balusters on one half and counter clock-wise ones on the the other 
half.  If you space them such that you have an odd number of them on the 
railing you can make the center baluster a non-spiral - perhaps a fluted or a 
simple tapered one.  Regarding the spacing between balusters, keep in mind that 
most building codes require any "opening" (gap/spacing) between balusters not 
exceed (or be less than) 4.0 inches.  For what it's worth, there is no need for 
your balusters to be 4x4" stock (that's huge).  Most deck/proch/gazebo railings 
I encounter are the "standard" 2"x2" (or 1 1/2" x 1 1/2").  Using the smaller 
size should save you a fair bit of cash as well as being much easier to 
handle/install.

Welcome to The Group.Mac



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Re: New Members and Moderation - Ray

[MWF]

Hello Ray,Thanks for the "intro".  You have come to the
 right place to get help - with all the questions you
 are bound to have once you start assembling and using your Mill.Where abouts do you live in NC?   You may find 
there is a Group Member within a reasonable drive distance.Thanks again for posting your intro.  We look forward to hearing & seeing lots from you.Welcome to The Group.Mac-Original Message-
From: view...@gmail.com
Sent: Aug 13, 2018 10:19 AM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills 
Subject: Re: New Members and Moderation

Hello to the group.  I'm Ray and I am a new member here. By way of introduction, I am retired and living in North Carolina . I've been into woodworking siince my 9th grade shop class.  Studied wood and metal patternmakinig in H.S. and actually taught  a H.S. shop class  but that was along time ago.  I've been a hobbyist woodworker most of my life and upon retirement have done woodworking most every day for the past 12 years.. I build furniture (i.e., Greene & Greene and Shaker style mostly) but recently built a set of cherry kitchen cabinets in the Shaker style for my son's townhouse remod.. I have had an older (1000e (?) legacy ornamental mills for some time but have not used it yet.  Lately, I have become interested in turning and added a lathe to my shop.  That got me to thinking about my legacy mill. And, that is what's brought me to your group.  Need to learn how to set up and use my machine.  So, I am looking forward to seeing what I can learn here. Ray




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Re: New Members and Moderation - Tracy

[MWF]

Hello Tracy,Thanks for the "intro".  You have come to the
 right place to get help and to share your skills & knowledge.If
 you provide us with the city/community where you live - you may find 
there is a Group Member within a reasonable drive distance.You mentioned you may be turning the balusters on your Mill.  Give thought to turning half with a clock-wise spiral and the other half with a counter clock-wise spiral.  Then, when assembling each railing section install clock-wise balusters on one half and counter clock-wise ones on the the other half.  If you space them such that you have an odd number of them on the railing you can make the center baluster a non-spiral - perhaps a fluted or a simple tapered one.  Regarding the spacing between balusters, keep in mind that most building codes require any "opening" (gap/spacing) between balusters not exceed (or be less than) 4.0 inches.  For what it's worth, there is no need for your balusters to be 4x4" stock (that's huge).  Most deck/proch/gazebo railings I encounter are the "standard" 2"x2" (or 1 1/2" x 1 1/2").  Using the smaller size should save you a fair bit of cash as well as being much easier to handle/install.Welcome to The Group.Mac-Original Message-
From: Tracy Smith 
Sent: Aug 13, 2018 9:17 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: New Members and Moderation

Thanks again everyone for the quick responses.  Just based on this feedback, I think I need to correct a few things: slow down my router, sharpen/clean more often, and be more patient in my cutting.  There have been times when I'm definitely too aggressive.My gazebo project came about because I bought the LOM.  I like to build stuff and the LOM gave me an opportunity to learn the tool and figure out how to do something I don't know now.  My plan is for a 14.5' gazebo with 1.5 overhang with a double roof.  I've attached a couple of my inspiration pictures.  The side rails will be basically 6' or the distance between centers of the posts will be 6'.  The side rail design was simply me looking at a bunch of different gazebos, drawing out variations of what I liked and asking my wife what she liked.  I've attached that drawing to see the variations I was thinking about doing.  We've decided on the bottom right rail.  The bottom support beam is a bit thicker and we both liked the supporting center baluster.  The balusters are also spaced a bit further apart.  The center baluster will be a transition baluster since there are 4-5 different designs for the major posts.  The balusters are smaller versions of the 6x6 posts.  All the balusters are from 4x4 redwood.  The top of the side rails will be a two pieces of 2x6 redwood fastened together to hold the balusters with some router or mill magic on them.  Nothing special but it should look nice.  Since I am using different styles of balusters, I really don't know how it will turn out.  It will either be beautiful or a bit of a visual nightmare.  Oh well.  I'll have fun building it.  Last year I built a pergola just off my shop.  I worked on the design for about 3 months off and on.  When I finally decided what I was going to do, I bought "a pile of wood" and it took about 2 months to complete it.  I really like how it turned out.  The last picture is the pergola.I've watched many of the Legacy how to videos and wanted a project to learn how to do it.  I actually live pretty close to where they manufacture their CNCs.  Great people and it is pretty cool to meet the people in the videos.  Since I still feel like I'm hacking my way through things, I am by no stretch an expert.  The rope twist is from a 2" bit with a 6" pitch.  The barley twist is a 2" bit with a single start.  The flute I kind of just did what I thought looked nice.  I think it was a 1/2 inch core box using 6 equally spaced index positions.The 1500EXL worked great but was missing most of the gears.  I did buy a new .25 gear set but instead of buying some of the few new replacement parts, I've acquired a few machines that had the pieced I wanted and have a bit of a collection now.  I do really enjoy working on this machine and I want to learn how to do all it is capable of. I just wish I had a lot more time for it.Thanks again,TracyOn Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 5:24 PM, Bill Bulkeley  wrote:













I find that a difficult question to answer
how often to hone the bit ?, depends on what wood your cutting how fast your
running the bit how fast a feed rate your routing how deep a cut and how it’s
cutting.

 

On the rope spiral in your pic with a 2 inch 
rope bit cutting hardwood I would take 2 passes on each spiral one rougher and
one finisher and I most likely run the bit a little slower rpm and feed than recommended
because its hard wood. but it also depends on vibration too I vary both feed
and speed slightly till I get a nice smooth finish and vibration free cut.

I would expect to cut 3 or 4 posts perhaps
more before giving the bit a