Re: Help with dead lisa 2

2001-10-11 Thread Vince Briel

I get 5V off of U7F pin 14 but crossing 14 and 12 didn't power up unit.
I've checked to make sure the motherboard connections are clean.


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Re: Help with dead lisa 2

2001-10-11 Thread rminton



I had one that wouldn't start up at all.  It turns out Q11 (the transistor right
above the battery pack) was bad.  This one is used to turn the computer on.  You
may have either a bad transistor or the solder joints could be bad.  The battery
pack appears to be the culprit sometimes, it can corrode the connection.

Randy



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Re: Help with dead lisa 2 getting closer!

2001-10-11 Thread Vince Briel

Well, that wasn't it but, I've found resistor pack 3 RP3 missing, 99% broken
off.  Does any body know the size of the pack and would this cause the
problem?


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Re: Help with dead lisa 2 getting closer!

2001-10-11 Thread Vince Briel

Ok, I checked U7F pin 12 and it does go to pin 120 on the edge connector.
Is there any way to check votages out of the power supply connector to
verify it is the power supply?

By the way, this list has been more help than I could have hoped for!


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Re: Help with dead lisa 2 getting closer!

2001-10-11 Thread James MacPhail


Q: Would others prefer this to be off-list, or should it remain on-list?

Hi Vince,

The board I have is a XL board I believe because the board # is 620-142
which according to sun remarketing manual says its an XL board.  But that
manual says it will work in my Lisa 2/10.  There is no battery pack on this
board.  I'm gonna check the other suggestion now on the board to try and get
it to fire up.

I was under the impression that you had a Lisa 2, not a Lisa 2/10, but it
may not matter...

The Lisa 2 has an external parallel port connector (near the serial ports
on the back), the Lisa 2/10 does not. The Lisa 2/10 has an interrupt
button, the Lisa 2 does not. Others may have different definitions of
course.

Various re-configurations and name changes confuse the issue of what is
each kind of Lisa, however the prescence or abscence of a parallel port on
the back panel of the motherboard is a reliable indicator.

The Lisa 2 usually has the 1.2 Amp power supply, the 2/10 usually has the
1.8 Amp power supply, although both work in both machines, the extra power
requirements of the 2/10 pretty much require the stronger power supply.
(These nameplate ratings are for the 120 volt version, the 240 volt
versions have different nameplate current ratings).

As for I/O boards, I believe they are NOT completely interchangable,
perhaps someone else can comment on this. If you have a back panel parallel
port, your I/O board should be 620-0117 (with the battery  switch, battery
perhaps removed). If you do not have a back panel parallel port, your I/O
board should be 620-142 (no battery).

Just to verify, U7F a 7417.  No jumper wire where you where describing, but
I may have a different board than what you thought.  Jumping pin 12 to 14
causing pin 12 to go high doesnt fire it up.

U7F is a 7417 on both I/O boards. The flying wire is only present on 620-0117.

It is possible I have the sense of the pin 12 voltage backwards. If it is
5V when the Lisa is off, try pulling it to ground to see if the power
supply starts up.

Ok, I checked U7F pin 12 and it does go to pin 120 on the edge connector.

You could check that that pin goes through the motherboard and chassis to
the power supply's edge connector, sorry I don't know what pin off-hand.

Is there any way to check votages out of the power supply connector to
verify it is the power supply?

Since you have already confirmed the 5V standby power is working, there is
no simple test. This is a problem with switching power supplies. Swapping
power supplies would be the easiest thing, but not everyone has a garage
full of Lisas (neither do I).

HTH,

James

James MacPhail   Think not of engineering as art,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] but of art as engineering
Sigma Seven Systems Ltd.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]http://SigmaSevenSystems.com



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