Hello Miles,
I know what you mean about tugging the string to equalize the
tension. I have tried this and the pitch changes as a result of it
about 20-30% of the time. In any case when the tensions are
unequal in the two parts of the string it signifies an instability
that is likely to equalize in small increments when you are playing.
I prefer to keep a sufficient amount of lubrication on the strings
at the nut so the tension can equilibrate faster.
Thanks for posting.
Best regards,
Marion
Il mandolino e' molto carino. Those who don't think so say,
'What do we know? We're ten times dumber than a small bambino.'
-Original Message-
From: Miles Dempster [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: May 13, 2005 11:15 AM
To: Lute Net lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
Subject: Re: thanks! (sticky strings)
Something that I haven't yet seen in this thread:
The string consists of 2 segments: a) between the peg and the nut, b)
between the nut and the bridge.
When there is friction at the nut, it's possible to turn the peg
slightly in either direction, changing the tension of the string
between the peg and the nut, but without any effect on the tension of
the string between the nut and the bridge. You can finely adjust the
tuning by tugging the string with your fingers so as to ease it over
the nut, and help in equalizing the tension on either side of the nut.
Miles Dempster
On Friday, May 13, 2005, at 12:45 PM, Dr. Marion Ceruti wrote:
Hello Tim,
Good ideas! One way to avoid many truns around the peg without
cutting the string is to coil up the excess string at the back of the
pegbox. I have seen this done with requinto strings also. It is
better than cutting the strings because by leaving them long you
can put them on other smaller instruments if they break. For example,
I can use a ren lute first string on a mandolino because the pitch
is an octave higher and the string length is exactly half (30 vs. 60
cm).
Pegs tend to settle into particular positions where they like to be and
it is hard sometimes to get them to go in between to get the right
pitch. Twisting the peg back and forth tends to dislodge the peg out
of these catch positions. Also before tightening a string, put some
slack
into it, twist it with the lower tension and then tighten it above the
pitch
then finally let some out to ease into the right pitch. There are all
different variations of this technique. Main thing is to turn your
face away from the strings when you tighten them or wear goggles.
Some people have had strings break and hit them in the face.
Cheers,
Marion
safety first.
-Original Message-
From: timothy motz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: May 13, 2005 5:08 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
Subject: Re: thanks!
Derek,
I've used Ivory soap in the grooves on my nut. Same idea as beeswax.
Another reason for the non-linear tuning can be that you have excess
string wound around the peg in an irregular pattern. So that as you
turn the peg, you (in effect) have a peg with a changing diameter,
leading to changes in how much string is taken up by one turn.
You would think that a nice even turn of the peg would get you to the
right amount of tension and the right pitch, but sometimes just
twisting the peg back and forth seems to get to the right point more
quickly. I've also found that if I tighten the peg to above the
correct pitch and then take it back down, I get it in tune more
smoothly.
Tim
Original Message
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
Subject: Re: thanks!
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 00:14:22 -0700
Just before you try everything at once :^) I prefer beeswax to
graphite
since it doesn't leave black marks on your nut. But definitely make
sure your grooves are round (and a slightly greater radius than the
string) first.
Sean Smith
On May 13, 2005, at 12:04 AM, Derek Monahan wrote:
Thank to everyone who respnded to my inquiry! I am
very grateful for your knowledge, and that this
community exists. I now have a wealth of information
(comparatively) about tuning issues. I will try everything.
www.myspace.com/deflatormouse
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