Re: [M100] Model 100 power adapter

[Peter Vollan]

The model 100 power suplly in center negative.
Get a (approximately) 6 volt DC power supply. Then chop off the end
and add the right connecor. ( and center negative.)

On Mon, 17 Dec 2018 at 15:47, Kurt McCullum  wrote:
>
> I have had good luck using power supplies for TI calculators. They seem to 
> have the right plug and most are center positive.
>
> Kurt
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 17, 2018, at 3:42 PM, gotoole wrote:
>
> Hi All
>
> I have 2 Power adapters for my model 100 both are now not working.
>
> Is their anything I can check to see why they are not working and is it 
> possible to get a replacement ?
>
> Regards
>
> Gordon
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>
>

Re: [M100] Noob squared

[Josh Malone]

Yes. It can be leaking and still operational. Just open the case and snip
it out with parts snips. You can run these systems without memory
batteries, so get them out now and decide what to replace them with later.

On Mon, Dec 17, 2018, 5:33 PM Nick Shaner  i too have wondered about this. My internal battery is still working. Is
> it possible for it to still be working but also be leaking? Also where is
> the best place to order REX?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Dec 17, 2018, at 4:01 PM, John Gardner  wrote:
> >
> > While you contemplate your options,  stop charging the internal
> >
> > NiCd  -  As in,  remove the AAs,  and unplug external power.
> >
> > ...
> >
> >
> >> On 12/17/18, Kevin Becker  wrote:
> >> I replaced mine with a NiMH battery from eBay.  The description claimed
> it
> >> was NiCad but the actual product was not.  There has been some debate
> about
> >> NiMH vs NiCad on the list.  I’ve had no trouble with my NiMH.  Arcade
> >> shopper sells both NiCad and NiMH.
> >>
> >>
> https://www.arcadeshopper.com/wp/?page_id=11#!/100-102-200/c/28313042/offset=0=nameAsc
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Dec 17, 2018, at 3:13 PM, Jeffrey Birt 
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I did a video last year on fixing a M100 with the same issues. There
> is a
> >>> link in the description to a color-coded map of the electrolytic caps
> and
> >>> part number for replacements. I used a super-cap instead of a battery,
> but
> >>> it won’t last as long backing up the memory (perhaps 3-4 days compared
> to
> >>> a few weeks or more with a battery.) For a battery use a NiMh I don’t
> have
> >>> a part number to hand but I’m sure somebody will chime in with one.
> >>>
> >>> https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U_id=hbLWk7ir9sI
> >>> 
> >>>
> >>> Jeff_Birt
> >>>
> >>> From: M100  >>> > On Behalf Of Charles
> Hudson
> >>> Sent: Monday, December 17, 2018 1:48 PM
> >>> To: m100@lists.bitchin100.com 
> >>> Subject: [M100] Noob squared
> >>>
> >>> Thank you for your replies.  I found them in the archives; I'm not sure
> >>> how to access the (current) list itself.  I couldn't find a "reply"
> option
> >>> on any of the messages.  I'm also not sure why the JPG picture I
> attached
> >>> was "scrubbed" from my initial message.  As I said, I've got a lot to
> >>> learn...
> >>>
> >>> But THANK YOU for pointing out the possible problem with the
> rechargeable
> >>> battery.  When I first got the machine, seven days ago, I tried
> turning it
> >>> on; nothing happened.  Then I tried turning it on with a 6 VDC adapter
> -
> >>> again nothing - and finally inserted four fresh AA alkaline batteries.
> >>> Eventually it came up.  I knew there was a rechargeable battery that
> >>> maintained settings but I would have assumed it merely needed to be
> >>> recharged.  I opened the case just now and found that the battery had
> >>> indeed corroded its case and possibly leaked onto the circuits
> adjacent.
> >>> I'd show you a picture but I don't know how to post one...
> >>>
> >>> However, this repair, now prioritized, raises some questions of its
> own.
> >>> I didn't see a wiki on how to make this repair so allow me to ask:
> >>>
> >>> - What do I need to look out for when removing the circuit board?
> >>> - Which battery and what voltage for a replacement? 3.6 V?  NiCd? Li?
> >>> - What do the gurus recommend for cleaning the traces?
> >>>
> >>> Gonna get right on this.  Thanks again.
> >>>
> >>> -CH-
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> 
> >>> <
> https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=icon>
>
> >>> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> >>> <
> https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=link
> >
> >>>
> >>
> >>
>

Re: [M100] Model 100 power adapter

[Fugu ME100]

I thought the Model T’s where center negative?  :)

The  T1133-P5N-ND Digikey 6V 1A power supply seems to work well as a 
replacement.

Most of the ‘brick’ supplies cannot be easily repaired best to seek out a new 
one.   Check that the output is 6V using a voltmeter if not then the supply is 
dead.

From: M100 
mailto:m100-boun...@lists.bitchin100.com>> 
on behalf of Kurt McCullum mailto:ku...@fastmail.com>>
Reply-To: mailto:m...@bitchin100.com>>
Date: Monday, December 17, 2018 at 6:47 PM
To: mailto:m100@lists.bitchin100.com>>
Subject: Re: [M100] Model 100 power adapter

I have had good luck using power supplies for TI calculators. They seem to have 
the right plug and most are center positive.

Kurt


On Mon, Dec 17, 2018, at 3:42 PM, gotoole wrote:
Hi All

I have 2 Power adapters for my model 100 both are now not working.

Is their anything I can check to see why they are not working and is it 
possible to get a replacement ?

Regards

Gordon



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

Re: [M100] Model 100 power adapter

[Kurt McCullum]

I just re-read my message. I meant to say center negative. Big oops
there. Sorry.

On Mon, Dec 17, 2018, at 3:47 PM, Kurt McCullum wrote:
> I have had good luck using power supplies for TI calculators. They
> seem to have the right plug and most are center positive.> 
> Kurt
> 
> 
> On Mon, Dec 17, 2018, at 3:42 PM, gotoole wrote:
>> Hi All
>> 
>> I have 2 Power adapters for my model 100 both are now not working.
>> 
>> Is their anything I can check to see why they are not working and is
>> it possible to get a replacement ?>> 
>> Regards
>> 
>> Gordon 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
> 

Re: [M100] Model 100 power adapter

[Jeffrey Birt]

If you have a multi-meter check to see if you have about 6 volts on the 
connector. As I recall the barrel (outside) is positive and the tip (inside) is 
negative. If you have voltage there then the problem lies in the M100’s.

 

Jeff_Birt

 

From: M100  On Behalf Of gotoole
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2018 5:42 PM
To: Model 100 Discussion 
Subject: [M100] Model 100 power adapter

 

Hi All

 

I have 2 Power adapters for my model 100 both are now not working.

 

Is their anything I can check to see why they are not working and is it 
possible to get a replacement ? 

 

Regards

 

Gordon 

 

 

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

Re: [M100] Model 100 power adapter

[Kurt McCullum]

I have had good luck using power supplies for TI calculators. They seem
to have the right plug and most are center positive.
Kurt


On Mon, Dec 17, 2018, at 3:42 PM, gotoole wrote:
> Hi All
> 
> I have 2 Power adapters for my model 100 both are now not working.
> 
> Is their anything I can check to see why they are not working and is
> it possible to get a replacement ?> 
> Regards
> 
> Gordon 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

[M100] Model 100 power adapter

[gotoole]

Hi All
I have 2 Power adapters for my model 100 both are now not working.
Is their anything I can check to see why they are not working and is it 
possible to get a replacement ? 
Regards
Gordon 


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

[M100] Noob squared

[Charles Hudson]

I received today's posts in a digest about 5 PM today.  Thanks to all who
responded.

I read Mr. Birt's response and looked at the two YouTube videos, as well as
downloading the PDF of caps and battery info.  That was an amazing piece of
work.  I hope my task is simpler, but I guess if I'm replacing the battery
the caps ought to be replaced as well.

Time to order some parts.

-CH-


Virus-free.
www.avast.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

Re: [M100] Noob squared

[Stephen Adolph]

wrt to REX, you can get them from 2 places.  myself or via arcadeshopper.com




On Mon, Dec 17, 2018 at 5:33 PM Nick Shaner  wrote:

> i too have wondered about this. My internal battery is still working. Is
> it possible for it to still be working but also be leaking? Also where is
> the best place to order REX?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Dec 17, 2018, at 4:01 PM, John Gardner  wrote:
> >
> > While you contemplate your options,  stop charging the internal
> >
> > NiCd  -  As in,  remove the AAs,  and unplug external power.
> >
> > ...
> >
> >
> >> On 12/17/18, Kevin Becker  wrote:
> >> I replaced mine with a NiMH battery from eBay.  The description claimed
> it
> >> was NiCad but the actual product was not.  There has been some debate
> about
> >> NiMH vs NiCad on the list.  I’ve had no trouble with my NiMH.  Arcade
> >> shopper sells both NiCad and NiMH.
> >>
> >>
> https://www.arcadeshopper.com/wp/?page_id=11#!/100-102-200/c/28313042/offset=0=nameAsc
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Dec 17, 2018, at 3:13 PM, Jeffrey Birt 
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I did a video last year on fixing a M100 with the same issues. There
> is a
> >>> link in the description to a color-coded map of the electrolytic caps
> and
> >>> part number for replacements. I used a super-cap instead of a battery,
> but
> >>> it won’t last as long backing up the memory (perhaps 3-4 days compared
> to
> >>> a few weeks or more with a battery.) For a battery use a NiMh I don’t
> have
> >>> a part number to hand but I’m sure somebody will chime in with one.
> >>>
> >>> https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U_id=hbLWk7ir9sI
> >>> 
> >>>
> >>> Jeff_Birt
> >>>
> >>> From: M100  >>> > On Behalf Of Charles
> Hudson
> >>> Sent: Monday, December 17, 2018 1:48 PM
> >>> To: m100@lists.bitchin100.com 
> >>> Subject: [M100] Noob squared
> >>>
> >>> Thank you for your replies.  I found them in the archives; I'm not sure
> >>> how to access the (current) list itself.  I couldn't find a "reply"
> option
> >>> on any of the messages.  I'm also not sure why the JPG picture I
> attached
> >>> was "scrubbed" from my initial message.  As I said, I've got a lot to
> >>> learn...
> >>>
> >>> But THANK YOU for pointing out the possible problem with the
> rechargeable
> >>> battery.  When I first got the machine, seven days ago, I tried
> turning it
> >>> on; nothing happened.  Then I tried turning it on with a 6 VDC adapter
> -
> >>> again nothing - and finally inserted four fresh AA alkaline batteries.
> >>> Eventually it came up.  I knew there was a rechargeable battery that
> >>> maintained settings but I would have assumed it merely needed to be
> >>> recharged.  I opened the case just now and found that the battery had
> >>> indeed corroded its case and possibly leaked onto the circuits
> adjacent.
> >>> I'd show you a picture but I don't know how to post one...
> >>>
> >>> However, this repair, now prioritized, raises some questions of its
> own.
> >>> I didn't see a wiki on how to make this repair so allow me to ask:
> >>>
> >>> - What do I need to look out for when removing the circuit board?
> >>> - Which battery and what voltage for a replacement? 3.6 V?  NiCd? Li?
> >>> - What do the gurus recommend for cleaning the traces?
> >>>
> >>> Gonna get right on this.  Thanks again.
> >>>
> >>> -CH-
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> 
> >>> <
> https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=icon>
>
> >>> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> >>> <
> https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=link
> >
> >>>
> >>
> >>
>

Re: [M100] Noob squared

[Nick Shaner]

i too have wondered about this. My internal battery is still working. Is it 
possible for it to still be working but also be leaking? Also where is the best 
place to order REX?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 17, 2018, at 4:01 PM, John Gardner  wrote:
> 
> While you contemplate your options,  stop charging the internal
> 
> NiCd  -  As in,  remove the AAs,  and unplug external power.
> 
> ...
> 
> 
>> On 12/17/18, Kevin Becker  wrote:
>> I replaced mine with a NiMH battery from eBay.  The description claimed it
>> was NiCad but the actual product was not.  There has been some debate about
>> NiMH vs NiCad on the list.  I’ve had no trouble with my NiMH.  Arcade
>> shopper sells both NiCad and NiMH.
>> 
>> https://www.arcadeshopper.com/wp/?page_id=11#!/100-102-200/c/28313042/offset=0=nameAsc
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Dec 17, 2018, at 3:13 PM, Jeffrey Birt  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I did a video last year on fixing a M100 with the same issues. There is a
>>> link in the description to a color-coded map of the electrolytic caps and
>>> part number for replacements. I used a super-cap instead of a battery, but
>>> it won’t last as long backing up the memory (perhaps 3-4 days compared to
>>> a few weeks or more with a battery.) For a battery use a NiMh I don’t have
>>> a part number to hand but I’m sure somebody will chime in with one.
>>> 
>>> https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U_id=hbLWk7ir9sI
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Jeff_Birt
>>> 
>>> From: M100 >> > On Behalf Of Charles Hudson
>>> Sent: Monday, December 17, 2018 1:48 PM
>>> To: m100@lists.bitchin100.com 
>>> Subject: [M100] Noob squared
>>> 
>>> Thank you for your replies.  I found them in the archives; I'm not sure
>>> how to access the (current) list itself.  I couldn't find a "reply" option
>>> on any of the messages.  I'm also not sure why the JPG picture I attached
>>> was "scrubbed" from my initial message.  As I said, I've got a lot to
>>> learn...
>>> 
>>> But THANK YOU for pointing out the possible problem with the rechargeable
>>> battery.  When I first got the machine, seven days ago, I tried turning it
>>> on; nothing happened.  Then I tried turning it on with a 6 VDC adapter -
>>> again nothing - and finally inserted four fresh AA alkaline batteries.
>>> Eventually it came up.  I knew there was a rechargeable battery that
>>> maintained settings but I would have assumed it merely needed to be
>>> recharged.  I opened the case just now and found that the battery had
>>> indeed corroded its case and possibly leaked onto the circuits adjacent.
>>> I'd show you a picture but I don't know how to post one...
>>> 
>>> However, this repair, now prioritized, raises some questions of its own.
>>> I didn't see a wiki on how to make this repair so allow me to ask:
>>> 
>>> - What do I need to look out for when removing the circuit board?
>>> - Which battery and what voltage for a replacement? 3.6 V?  NiCd? Li?
>>> - What do the gurus recommend for cleaning the traces?
>>> 
>>> Gonna get right on this.  Thanks again.
>>> 
>>> -CH-
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 

Re: [M100] Noob squared

[John Gardner]

While you contemplate your options,  stop charging the internal

NiCd  -  As in,  remove the AAs,  and unplug external power.

 ...


On 12/17/18, Kevin Becker  wrote:
> I replaced mine with a NiMH battery from eBay.  The description claimed it
> was NiCad but the actual product was not.  There has been some debate about
> NiMH vs NiCad on the list.  I’ve had no trouble with my NiMH.  Arcade
> shopper sells both NiCad and NiMH.
>
> https://www.arcadeshopper.com/wp/?page_id=11#!/100-102-200/c/28313042/offset=0=nameAsc
>
>
>
>> On Dec 17, 2018, at 3:13 PM, Jeffrey Birt  wrote:
>>
>> I did a video last year on fixing a M100 with the same issues. There is a
>> link in the description to a color-coded map of the electrolytic caps and
>> part number for replacements. I used a super-cap instead of a battery, but
>> it won’t last as long backing up the memory (perhaps 3-4 days compared to
>> a few weeks or more with a battery.) For a battery use a NiMh I don’t have
>> a part number to hand but I’m sure somebody will chime in with one.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U_id=hbLWk7ir9sI
>> 
>>
>> Jeff_Birt
>>
>> From: M100 > > On Behalf Of Charles Hudson
>> Sent: Monday, December 17, 2018 1:48 PM
>> To: m100@lists.bitchin100.com 
>> Subject: [M100] Noob squared
>>
>> Thank you for your replies.  I found them in the archives; I'm not sure
>> how to access the (current) list itself.  I couldn't find a "reply" option
>> on any of the messages.  I'm also not sure why the JPG picture I attached
>> was "scrubbed" from my initial message.  As I said, I've got a lot to
>> learn...
>>
>> But THANK YOU for pointing out the possible problem with the rechargeable
>> battery.  When I first got the machine, seven days ago, I tried turning it
>> on; nothing happened.  Then I tried turning it on with a 6 VDC adapter -
>> again nothing - and finally inserted four fresh AA alkaline batteries.
>> Eventually it came up.  I knew there was a rechargeable battery that
>> maintained settings but I would have assumed it merely needed to be
>> recharged.  I opened the case just now and found that the battery had
>> indeed corroded its case and possibly leaked onto the circuits adjacent.
>> I'd show you a picture but I don't know how to post one...
>>
>> However, this repair, now prioritized, raises some questions of its own.
>> I didn't see a wiki on how to make this repair so allow me to ask:
>>
>> - What do I need to look out for when removing the circuit board?
>> - Which battery and what voltage for a replacement? 3.6 V?  NiCd? Li?
>> - What do the gurus recommend for cleaning the traces?
>>
>> Gonna get right on this.  Thanks again.
>>
>> -CH-
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>> 
>>   
>> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>> 
>>
>
>

Re: [M100] Noob squared

[Kevin Becker]

I replaced mine with a NiMH battery from eBay.  The description claimed it was 
NiCad but the actual product was not.  There has been some debate about NiMH vs 
NiCad on the list.  I’ve had no trouble with my NiMH.  Arcade shopper sells 
both NiCad and NiMH.

https://www.arcadeshopper.com/wp/?page_id=11#!/100-102-200/c/28313042/offset=0=nameAsc



> On Dec 17, 2018, at 3:13 PM, Jeffrey Birt  wrote:
> 
> I did a video last year on fixing a M100 with the same issues. There is a 
> link in the description to a color-coded map of the electrolytic caps and 
> part number for replacements. I used a super-cap instead of a battery, but it 
> won’t last as long backing up the memory (perhaps 3-4 days compared to a few 
> weeks or more with a battery.) For a battery use a NiMh I don’t have a part 
> number to hand but I’m sure somebody will chime in with one.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U_id=hbLWk7ir9sI 
> 
> 
> Jeff_Birt
>  
> From: M100  > On Behalf Of Charles Hudson
> Sent: Monday, December 17, 2018 1:48 PM
> To: m100@lists.bitchin100.com 
> Subject: [M100] Noob squared
>  
> Thank you for your replies.  I found them in the archives; I'm not sure how 
> to access the (current) list itself.  I couldn't find a "reply" option on any 
> of the messages.  I'm also not sure why the JPG picture I attached was 
> "scrubbed" from my initial message.  As I said, I've got a lot to learn...
>  
> But THANK YOU for pointing out the possible problem with the rechargeable 
> battery.  When I first got the machine, seven days ago, I tried turning it 
> on; nothing happened.  Then I tried turning it on with a 6 VDC adapter - 
> again nothing - and finally inserted four fresh AA alkaline batteries.  
> Eventually it came up.  I knew there was a rechargeable battery that 
> maintained settings but I would have assumed it merely needed to be 
> recharged.  I opened the case just now and found that the battery had indeed 
> corroded its case and possibly leaked onto the circuits adjacent.  I'd show 
> you a picture but I don't know how to post one...
>  
> However, this repair, now prioritized, raises some questions of its own.  I 
> didn't see a wiki on how to make this repair so allow me to ask: 
>  
> - What do I need to look out for when removing the circuit board?
> - Which battery and what voltage for a replacement? 3.6 V?  NiCd? Li?
> - What do the gurus recommend for cleaning the traces?
>  
> Gonna get right on this.  Thanks again.
>  
> -CH-
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
> 
> Virus-free. www.avast.com 
> 
>  

Re: [M100] Noob squared

[Gregory McGill]

I have the batteries as well

https://www.arcadeshopper.com/wp/?page_id=11#!/Replacement-Batteries/c/32594049/offset=0=nameAsc

On Mon, Dec 17, 2018 at 11:47 AM Charles Hudson  wrote:

> Thank you for your replies.  I found them in the archives; I'm not sure
> how to access the (current) list itself.  I couldn't find a "reply" option
> on any of the messages.  I'm also not sure why the JPG picture I attached
> was "scrubbed" from my initial message.  As I said, I've got a lot to
> learn...
>
> But THANK YOU for pointing out the possible problem with the rechargeable
> battery.  When I first got the machine, seven days ago, I tried turning it
> on; nothing happened.  Then I tried turning it on with a 6 VDC adapter -
> again nothing - and finally inserted four fresh AA alkaline batteries.
> Eventually it came up.  I knew there was a rechargeable battery that
> maintained settings but I would have assumed it merely needed to be
> recharged.  I opened the case just now and found that the battery had
> indeed corroded its case and possibly leaked onto the circuits adjacent.
> I'd show you a picture but I don't know how to post one...
>
> However, this repair, now prioritized, raises some questions of its own.
> I didn't see a wiki on how to make this repair so allow me to ask:
>
> - What do I need to look out for when removing the circuit board?
> - Which battery and what voltage for a replacement? 3.6 V?  NiCd? Li?
> - What do the gurus recommend for cleaning the traces?
>
> Gonna get right on this.  Thanks again.
>
> -CH-
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_5336157494223364456_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>

Re: [M100] Noob squared

[Jeffrey Birt]

I did a video last year on fixing a M100 with the same issues. There is a link 
in the description to a color-coded map of the electrolytic caps and part 
number for replacements. I used a super-cap instead of a battery, but it won’t 
last as long backing up the memory (perhaps 3-4 days compared to a few weeks or 
more with a battery.) For a battery use a NiMh I don’t have a part number to 
hand but I’m sure somebody will chime in with one.

https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U 
 _id=hbLWk7ir9sI

Jeff_Birt

 

From: M100  On Behalf Of Charles Hudson
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2018 1:48 PM
To: m100@lists.bitchin100.com
Subject: [M100] Noob squared

 

Thank you for your replies.  I found them in the archives; I'm not sure how to 
access the (current) list itself.  I couldn't find a "reply" option on any of 
the messages.  I'm also not sure why the JPG picture I attached was "scrubbed" 
from my initial message.  As I said, I've got a lot to learn...

 

But THANK YOU for pointing out the possible problem with the rechargeable 
battery.  When I first got the machine, seven days ago, I tried turning it on; 
nothing happened.  Then I tried turning it on with a 6 VDC adapter - again 
nothing - and finally inserted four fresh AA alkaline batteries.  Eventually it 
came up.  I knew there was a rechargeable battery that maintained settings but 
I would have assumed it merely needed to be recharged.  I opened the case just 
now and found that the battery had indeed corroded its case and possibly leaked 
onto the circuits adjacent.  I'd show you a picture but I don't know how to 
post one...

 

However, this repair, now prioritized, raises some questions of its own.  I 
didn't see a wiki on how to make this repair so allow me to ask: 

 

- What do I need to look out for when removing the circuit board?

- Which battery and what voltage for a replacement? 3.6 V?  NiCd? Li?

- What do the gurus recommend for cleaning the traces?

 

Gonna get right on this.  Thanks again.

 

-CH-

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avast.com 

 

[M100] Noob squared

[Charles Hudson]

Thank you for your replies.  I found them in the archives; I'm not sure how
to access the (current) list itself.  I couldn't find a "reply" option on
any of the messages.  I'm also not sure why the JPG picture I attached was
"scrubbed" from my initial message.  As I said, I've got a lot to learn...

But THANK YOU for pointing out the possible problem with the rechargeable
battery.  When I first got the machine, seven days ago, I tried turning it
on; nothing happened.  Then I tried turning it on with a 6 VDC adapter -
again nothing - and finally inserted four fresh AA alkaline batteries.
Eventually it came up.  I knew there was a rechargeable battery that
maintained settings but I would have assumed it merely needed to be
recharged.  I opened the case just now and found that the battery had
indeed corroded its case and possibly leaked onto the circuits adjacent.
I'd show you a picture but I don't know how to post one...

However, this repair, now prioritized, raises some questions of its own.  I
didn't see a wiki on how to make this repair so allow me to ask:

- What do I need to look out for when removing the circuit board?
- Which battery and what voltage for a replacement? 3.6 V?  NiCd? Li?
- What do the gurus recommend for cleaning the traces?

Gonna get right on this.  Thanks again.

-CH-






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Re: [M100] Multiplan Question

[John Gardner]

Will do.  Memory claims there were two ROMs - One

marked "TS-DOS",  & an unmarked chip  I assumed

was the OEM 8201a ROM.

Its possible that's what it really was,  I suppose...

 ...


On 12/17/18, Kurt McCullum  wrote:
> John,
>
> If you get a chance to check, and it does contain the ROM, please let me
> know. That is one ROM that has fallen through the cracks over time.
> Kurt
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 17, 2018, at 10:25 AM, John Gardner wrote:
>> I still have the machine - Not sure about the ROM / manual.
>>
>> ...
>>
>>
>> On 12/17/18, Kurt McCullum  wrote:
>>> An NEC version or a Tandy version? The Tandy 100/102 ROM is on the
>>> Club100 site and on the REX download ZIPs. If you have the NEC
>>> versions,>> I'd love to get a download of the ROM image.
>>>
>>> On Mon, Dec 17, 2018, at 10:19 AM, Wayne Talbot wrote:
 I have a machine and a Multiple rom. I used it quite a bit doing
 financials.>

 On Mon, Dec 17, 2018, 11:53 AM Kurt McCullum
 > __
> Thanks Jack,
>
> That's the first confirmation that I have received that the ROM
> actually exits. I take it you not longer have the machine or ROM?>>
> Kurt
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 17, 2018, at 9:50 AM, John Gardner wrote:
>> Kurt,  it's a long time ago now (1994?) but an 8201a
>>
>> I purchased at a surplus store came with a Multiplan
>>
>> manual in a Ring Binder.  I'm pretty sure there was a
>>
>> ROM too,  but so far don't remember what became of it.
>>
>> HTH...
>>
>> Jack
>>
>> ...
>
>>>
>>>
>
>

Re: [M100] Multiplan Question

[Kurt McCullum]

Thanks Jack,

That's the first confirmation that I have received that the ROM actually
exits. I take it you not longer have the machine or ROM?
Kurt


On Mon, Dec 17, 2018, at 9:50 AM, John Gardner wrote:
> Kurt,  it's a long time ago now (1994?) but an 8201a
> 
> I purchased at a surplus store came with a Multiplan
> 
> manual in a Ring Binder.  I'm pretty sure there was a
> 
> ROM too,  but so far don't remember what became of it.
> 
> HTH...
> 
>   Jack
> 
> ...

Re: [M100] Multiplan Question

[John Gardner]

Kurt,  it's a long time ago now (1994?) but an 8201a

I purchased at a surplus store came with a Multiplan

manual in a Ring Binder.  I'm pretty sure there was a

ROM too,  but so far don't remember what became of it.

HTH...

   Jack

 ...

Re: [M100] Noob squared

[Gregory McGill]

I have stock of REX :)

Greg

On Mon, Dec 17, 2018 at 7:56 AM Josh Malone  wrote:

> Hello Charles! Welcome to Club 100 :)
>
> You are correct about the ports under the ROM door. The 40-pin DIP is the
> system bus connector; it's used for direct system bus peripherals such as
> the Disk/Video Interface. The odd Molex socket is for Option ROM modules.
> BITD, you would buy software from Radio Shack and it would come on ROM
> modules which they would install for you at purchase time. A fair amount of
> third-party software was also available shortly thereafter, and came on
> modules that used various form-factors to be compatible with this socket.
>
> In modern-day use, the most popular options for option ROMs is to use a
> REX, which is a modern flash-based multi-bank ROM that allows you to have
> multiple option ROM images "installed" in your machine and switch between
> them using a software menu. It has other cool features, too.
>
> http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REX
>
> REX can be purchased online from:
>
>
> https://www.arcadeshopper.com/wp/?page_id=11#!/REX/p/102954443/category=28313042
>
> but it looks like he might be out of stock at the moment (basically
> meaning - I need to assemble some more; full disclosure: I did not design
> REX, I merely assemble them).
>
> While we're doing intros, have you addressed the internal memory battery,
> yet? If it hasn't been replaced yet, it is probably leaking and poses
> serious risk to your system logic board due to corrosion.
>
> -Josh
>
> On Mon, Dec 17, 2018 at 9:40 AM Charles Hudson  wrote:
>
>> Hello to the members of the bitchin100 mailing list.  I am a newcomer to
>> the list and am posting here - at the suggestion of MikeS - because I am
>> the new owner of a Model 100.  It is my first TRS and I have a lot to
>> learn, although the VCFED members have helped where they can.
>>
>> I have some documentation: the Radio Shack Model 100 manual and a book
>> The TRS-80 Model 100 Computer, by David Lein.  But I have a question about
>> the expansion ROM port and am hoping someone can help me to understand
>> better:
>>
>> In the expansion bay are two sockets; a 28-pin and a 40-pin.  The 40-pin
>> is referenced on page 208 of the RS manual as "40-pin extended bus" and a
>> chart of the signals is given along with a pinout diagram.  What is the
>> purpose of this bus?  Was / is there any device that used it?
>>
>> Am I correct in assuming the 28-pin socket is used for the ROM Module
>> Cartridge referenced on page 8 of the RS manual?
>>
>> Thanks for your replies.
>>
>> -CH-
>>
>> picture attached.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>  Virus-free.
>> www.avast.com
>> 
>> <#m_-1173785335615547229_m_3900484543054788430_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>

[M100] Multiplan Question

[Kurt McCullum]

Multiplan was standard on the Tandy 200 and available as an option ROM
for the 100/102. Did Microsoft ever make an option ROM for the NEC
8201a/8300?
Kurt

Re: [M100] Noob squared

[Josh Malone]

Hello Charles! Welcome to Club 100 :)

You are correct about the ports under the ROM door. The 40-pin DIP is the
system bus connector; it's used for direct system bus peripherals such as
the Disk/Video Interface. The odd Molex socket is for Option ROM modules.
BITD, you would buy software from Radio Shack and it would come on ROM
modules which they would install for you at purchase time. A fair amount of
third-party software was also available shortly thereafter, and came on
modules that used various form-factors to be compatible with this socket.

In modern-day use, the most popular options for option ROMs is to use a
REX, which is a modern flash-based multi-bank ROM that allows you to have
multiple option ROM images "installed" in your machine and switch between
them using a software menu. It has other cool features, too.

http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REX

REX can be purchased online from:

https://www.arcadeshopper.com/wp/?page_id=11#!/REX/p/102954443/category=28313042

but it looks like he might be out of stock at the moment (basically meaning
- I need to assemble some more; full disclosure: I did not design REX, I
merely assemble them).

While we're doing intros, have you addressed the internal memory battery,
yet? If it hasn't been replaced yet, it is probably leaking and poses
serious risk to your system logic board due to corrosion.

-Josh

On Mon, Dec 17, 2018 at 9:40 AM Charles Hudson  wrote:

> Hello to the members of the bitchin100 mailing list.  I am a newcomer to
> the list and am posting here - at the suggestion of MikeS - because I am
> the new owner of a Model 100.  It is my first TRS and I have a lot to
> learn, although the VCFED members have helped where they can.
>
> I have some documentation: the Radio Shack Model 100 manual and a book The
> TRS-80 Model 100 Computer, by David Lein.  But I have a question about the
> expansion ROM port and am hoping someone can help me to understand better:
>
> In the expansion bay are two sockets; a 28-pin and a 40-pin.  The 40-pin
> is referenced on page 208 of the RS manual as "40-pin extended bus" and a
> chart of the signals is given along with a pinout diagram.  What is the
> purpose of this bus?  Was / is there any device that used it?
>
> Am I correct in assuming the 28-pin socket is used for the ROM Module
> Cartridge referenced on page 8 of the RS manual?
>
> Thanks for your replies.
>
> -CH-
>
> picture attached.
>
>
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_3900484543054788430_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>

Re: [M100] Noob squared

[Kevin Becker]

The 40 pin socket is for connecting to a Disk Video Interface, usually just 
referred to as a DVI.

http://tandy.wiki/Disk/Video_Interface

The other one is for Option ROMs that contain additional software.  There is a 
modern product call a REX that lets you load multiple different option ROM 
images and swap between them.

http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REX





> On Dec 17, 2018, at 9:40 AM, Charles Hudson  wrote:
> 
> Hello to the members of the bitchin100 mailing list.  I am a newcomer to the 
> list and am posting here - at the suggestion of MikeS - because I am the new 
> owner of a Model 100.  It is my first TRS and I have a lot to learn, although 
> the VCFED members have helped where they can.
> 
> I have some documentation: the Radio Shack Model 100 manual and a book The 
> TRS-80 Model 100 Computer, by David Lein.  But I have a question about the 
> expansion ROM port and am hoping someone can help me to understand better:
> 
> In the expansion bay are two sockets; a 28-pin and a 40-pin.  The 40-pin is 
> referenced on page 208 of the RS manual as "40-pin extended bus" and a chart 
> of the signals is given along with a pinout diagram.  What is the purpose of 
> this bus?  Was / is there any device that used it?
> 
> Am I correct in assuming the 28-pin socket is used for the ROM Module 
> Cartridge referenced on page 8 of the RS manual?
> 
> Thanks for your replies.
> 
> -CH-
> 
> picture attached.
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
>   Virus-free. www.avast.com 
> 
>  

[M100] Noob squared

[Charles Hudson]

Hello to the members of the bitchin100 mailing list.  I am a newcomer to
the list and am posting here - at the suggestion of MikeS - because I am
the new owner of a Model 100.  It is my first TRS and I have a lot to
learn, although the VCFED members have helped where they can.

I have some documentation: the Radio Shack Model 100 manual and a book The
TRS-80 Model 100 Computer, by David Lein.  But I have a question about the
expansion ROM port and am hoping someone can help me to understand better:

In the expansion bay are two sockets; a 28-pin and a 40-pin.  The 40-pin is
referenced on page 208 of the RS manual as "40-pin extended bus" and a
chart of the signals is given along with a pinout diagram.  What is the
purpose of this bus?  Was / is there any device that used it?

Am I correct in assuming the 28-pin socket is used for the ROM Module
Cartridge referenced on page 8 of the RS manual?

Thanks for your replies.

-CH-

picture attached.




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