MacGroup: Can't recover from Kernel Panic

[Jerry Ethington]

On Apr 3, 2006, at 5:31 PM, Beth Phillips wrote:

> After last night?s storms I?m having problems with one of our G5s.  
> When we finally had powered restored today, the user tried to turn  
> on their machine and received the kernel panic error. When they  
> tried to restart they received another message, but not sure what  
> that was. I could get the computer to boot into safe mode but when  
> I tried to run some commands from terminal I would get the kernel  
> panic.
>
> I decided to do an archive and install of the OS, but received the  
> kernel panic shortly after the actual install began. I?ve tried  
> booting with the option key and the original install CD so I could  
> run Apple?s Hardware Test, but I never get the arrow to allow me to  
> choose which drive I want to boot from, just a spinning stop watch.
>
> I booted into  safe mode again and set my external fire wire drive  
> (Has a bootable Mac OS installed) as the startup disk which worked  
> fine, except that I still can?t run the Apple Hardware test from  
> there. I was going to change back to the Mac hard drive for my  
> startup disk and try to backup what data I could and try a complete  
> reinstall. But now the Mac Hard drive is not showing up as an  
> option in the startup disk control panel. I shut everything down  
> and tried rebooting again with the external drive disconnected and  
> now I?m getting a flashing square with a globe in it. Has anyone  
> seen this before and what does it mean?
>
> -- 
> Thanks,
> Beth

I had one further thought - I've seen the too-smart-for-their- 
britches microprocessors in USB or Firewire hubs and devices get  
confused and cause the host Mac to barf with a kernel panic.  If the  
SMU/PMU reset gets you nowhere, and there are external devices  
connected to the G5, try removing all power from the G5, all hubs,  
and all devices.  Unplug the power from all hubs and devices - to be  
really paranoid, I'd unplug the USB cables/Firewire cables too, so no  
device can provide power to the hub and no hub can supply power to a  
device.  I'd try booting the G5 with no more devices attached than a  
keyboard and mouse.  If that works, start reconnecting stuff one  
piece at a time and see if the problem comes back.

Hope this helps.

Jerry W. Ethington
245 Hawkeegan Drive
Frankfort, KY 40601-3912
(502)682-2607 cellular
jethington at mac.com

"Quando omni, flunkus moritati."
(When all else fails, play dead.)



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MacGroup: Can't recover from Kernel Panic

[Jerry Ethington]

On Apr 3, 2006, at 5:31 PM, Beth Phillips wrote:

> After last night?s storms I?m having problems with one of our G5s.  
> When we finally had powered restored today, the user tried to turn  
> on their machine and received the kernel panic error. When they  
> tried to restart they received another message, but not sure what  
> that was. I could get the computer to boot into safe mode but when  
> I tried to run some commands from terminal I would get the kernel  
> panic.
>
> I decided to do an archive and install of the OS, but received the  
> kernel panic shortly after the actual install began. I?ve tried  
> booting with the option key and the original install CD so I could  
> run Apple?s Hardware Test, but I never get the arrow to allow me to  
> choose which drive I want to boot from, just a spinning stop watch.
>
> I booted into  safe mode again and set my external fire wire drive  
> (Has a bootable Mac OS installed) as the startup disk which worked  
> fine, except that I still can?t run the Apple Hardware test from  
> there. I was going to change back to the Mac hard drive for my  
> startup disk and try to backup what data I could and try a complete  
> reinstall. But now the Mac Hard drive is not showing up as an  
> option in the startup disk control panel. I shut everything down  
> and tried rebooting again with the external drive disconnected and  
> now I?m getting a flashing square with a globe in it. Has anyone  
> seen this before and what does it mean?
>
> -- 
> Thanks,
> Beth

Ew, someone else had problems after the storms too.

I found out the hard way my UPS had died.

My best bet would be that the SMU chip on the G5, which manages power  
and a whole lot of other low level stuff, got scrambled.  (Or PMU  
chip on earlier G5s - they changed over to the SMU chip in more  
recent G5s).  You'll have to figure out the exact model G5 in  
question and look it up in Apple's online knowledgebase to see how to  
reset it - the instructions vary a bit depending on the specific model.

It might also be worth a try to perform a NVRAM and hardware reset  
via Open Firmware.  Power up the G5 and IMMEDIATELY hold down  
command, option, O, and F keys to enter Open Firmware.  When you get  
the open firmware prompt, release the keys and type

reset-nvram
set-defaults
reset-all

The system will now reboot and hopefully be happier.. this will  
reset the NVRAM, PMU chip (if there is one), and some of the very low  
level hardware - it frequently helps weirdnesses like you are seeing.

Hope this info help.

Jerry

Jerry W. Ethington
245 Hawkeegan Drive
Frankfort, KY 40601-3912
(502)682-2607 cellular
jethington at mac.com

"Quando omni, flunkus moritati."
(When all else fails, play dead.)



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Re(2): MacGroup: wireless router quits

[Jerry Ethington]

>BTW, the trouble with the router started when I got my new laptop. It
>sits on a desk two feet from the G4 tower. The laptop has the 2nd
>generation airport card in it. Could the proximity of one card to the
>other cause the intermittent interruption of the wireless signal from
>the router?
>
>Harry
>
>| The next meeting of the Louisville Computer Society will
>| be August 25. The LCS Web page is .
>| List posting address: 
>| List Web page: 

Nope, they shouldn't have any problem - if they both try to transmit 
at the same time, they should detect the collision and retransmit 
without any problems at all.  Again, check for newer firmware at the 
Linksys web site  - there was an issue with 
some of their routers and a new chip set that caused the kind of 
disconnects you are seeing.

Jerry
-- 
Jerry W. Ethington
245 Hawkeegan Drive
Frankfort, KY 40601-3912
(502)682-2607 cellular
jethington at mac.com

"Quando omni, flunkus moritati."
(When all else fails, play dead.)





| The next meeting of the Louisville Computer Society will
| be August 25. The LCS Web page is .
| List posting address: 
| List Web page: 

MacGroup: wireless router quits

[Jerry Ethington]

>My wireless Linksys router quit sending a wireless signal. It's been
>cutting in and out over the past few weeks and finally it just gave up
>the ghost.
>
>Do these things wear out? What could cause this to happen?
>
>
>Thanks.
>
>Harry

You don't mention which model of Linksys you have, but I think there 
was an issue with certain hardware revisions of some models that 
caused the wireless side to choke on file transfers.  You might check 
the Linksys site to make sure you have the newest firmware for your 
router - I know they issued new firmware to fix that problem a few 
months ago, if that is what you are running into.

Like all electronics, it can eventually break, but since you say it 
came back I'd come way closer to believing that this is a firmware 
bug or configuration problem rather than busted hardware.  Hope this 
helps.

-- 
Jerry W. Ethington
245 Hawkeegan Drive
Frankfort, KY 40601-3912
(502)682-2607 cellular
jethington at mac.com

"Quando omni, flunkus moritati."
(When all else fails, play dead.)





| The next meeting of the Louisville Computer Society will
| be August 25. The LCS Web page is .
| List posting address: 
| List Web page: 

MacGroup: Warning light blinking on Apple Display

[Jerry Ethington]

>Just a caveat to add Jerry,
>Monitors keep/hold a charge for many years to come, even when 
>they've been unplugged.
>I'm very leary of ever recommending a client open a CRT and having 
>them touch anything.  You can get zapped by doing so even 5+ years 
>later.
>Best wishes,
>
>Jeff Slyn, Owner
>SLYN Systems & Peripherals
>(502) 426-5469
>serving Kentuckiana clients 7 days a week since 1985!

Dunno about 5 years (!) but CRTs do have REALLY BIG capacitors and 
transformers that can hold lethal voltages for quite a while - if one 
were to work on a CRT you have to make VERY sure to drain the 
capacitors first thing, or else.  No foolin', people get killed 
poking about the CRTs used in TV sets and monitors if they aren't 
careful.  If I remember right the flyback transformer delivers 
several tens of thousands of volts - most unpleasant :)

Not really much of an issue for LCDs, though - only tiny capacitors 
and transformers for the inverters, and as long as they aren't 
plugged in (duh!) the small capacitors aren't much of a safety issue, 
at least in the Apple design we're discussing where there is no power 
supply - the 17" LCD draws power directly from the system through the 
ADC connector.

Thanks for pointing out the safety issue in case someone was reading 
this thread about LCD repair and decided to tackle a CRT - don't 
unless you take proper safety precautions, or you could end up a VERY 
crispy critter.

-- 
Jerry W. Ethington
245 Hawkeegan Drive
Frankfort, KY 40601-3912
(502)223-5489
(502)682-2607 cellular
jethington at mac.com

"Quando omni, flunkus moritati."
(When all else fails, play dead.)





| The next meeting of the Louisville Computer Society will
| be May 24. The LCS Web page is .
| List posting address: 
| List Web page: 

MacGroup: Warning light blinking on Apple Display

[Jerry Ethington]

>Ward,
>
>My 17" Apple Display is blinking. I tried everything Apple's site 
>said to do and it is still blinking. It is doing two fast and one 
>long blink, which I believe has to do with the backlight. Is there 
>an easy repair for this or is this something major? Also, will it 
>hurt to continue using it.
>
>Nora Probasco

I'm not Ward :) but I thought I'd throw some additional grist in the 
mill for other readers o' the list since I just went through this 
with my 15" display.  The 2 fast/ 1 slow blinking light is a 
diagnostic telling you a backlight has failed, as the document Ward 
pointed you to points out.  That can mean either a backlight 
fluorescent tube has burned out (CCFL, cold cathode fluorescent tube) 
or the inverter board inside the display has barfed, and isn't 
supplying power to one or more of the backlight CCFL tubes.  In the 
case of the 17" display though, it turns out this is a VERY common 
problem with the inverter board.  There are two CCFL tubes at the top 
and two at the bottom of the 17 inch display, one in each corner, but 
it is MUCH more likely to be the inverter board in this particular 
case.  You'll probably notice if you look at the screen closely that 
it is darker towards one of the corners - that probably means a 
portion of the inverter board supplying power to that corner has 
croaked.  The board actually has four complete inverters supplying 
juice to the four tubes.

In my case, I didn't know whether it was the tube or the inverter 
board, but I figured what do I have to lose by opening the display up 
and having a look. I looked at the inverter board first because it 
was an easier repair to make if that turned out to be the problem - 
less work :).  One portion of the board looked like it had taken a 
direct hit from a photon torpedo - the transformer was charred and 
the board it was soldered to was scorched, so it was pretty clear 
that this was the problem.

I searched the web and found .  They had full 
illustrated instructions on opening up the display and replacing the 
inverter board, and they sold a replacement board for $110, way less 
than a new display or the exorbitant repair cost.  They also have an 
improved board that isn't nearly as likely to choke as the original 
board - this costs about $130.

If you are even slightly adept at working on computer gear, you'll 
have no problems doing the replacement at all.  The illustrated 
instructions at 
 are 
pretty clear and make it easy - took me about 20 minutes to put in 
the replacement board and have my display up and running again.

I've no idea why Apple and other manufacturers are so ornery about 
repairing LCD displays - clearly that are a few parts inside that can 
easily and economically be replaced if they wanted to do so.

The same outfit also sells replacement tubes for LCD displays - like 
all light bulbs they will eventually burn out, but they are pretty 
long lived.  The tubes are pretty cheap, around $10-$15 each, but it 
is a bit more work to replace those - they are pretty fragile and 
some soldering is involved.  It might well still be worth doing 
though - the LCD panel practically never burns out, so new backlight 
tubes pretty much makes a display good as new.

In my case, I didn't have to fool with the tubes - a replacement 
inverter board fixed my display right up.  Since this is so common 
with the 17" Apple display, the odds are that is the problem with 
your display too.

Thought I'd make you aware of an option other than pitch the display 
and replace it, or spend $500 to repair it.

For those who do not feel comfortable doing their own repairs, their 
parent company, , performs flat rate LCD 
display repairs.  In the case of the Apple 17" display, they charge 
$165.

Hope this info helps.

-- 
Jerry W. Ethington
245 Hawkeegan Drive
Frankfort, KY 40601-3912
(502)223-5489
(502)682-2607 cellular
jethington at mac.com

"Quando omni, flunkus moritati."
(When all else fails, play dead.)
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MacGroup: ibook issues

[Jerry Ethington]

>I have a friend that has an older ibook running Mac OS X (Jaguar, I 
>believe). I haven't dealt with these models much and didn't see 
>anything that would help her out. It's out of warranty so Apple's 
>not helping her either.
>
>Any time she restarts the computer her time has to be reset. If this 
>were a desktop model I'd say her battery had gone bad, but ibooks 
>don't have an internal PRAM battery, do they? Anyone have any 
>suggestions? I'm going to suggest zapping the PRAM first but if that 
>doesn't work what else can she try?

iBooks don't have a PRAM battery (PowerBooks do, but not iBooks I 
believe).  I can think of three possible causes:

1.  Fried logic board.  Not very likely, and not much you can do 
about it other than fork up big bucks for a replacement.

2.  More likely - messed up power manager chip.  You can reset this - 
you'll have to look at the Apple Support web site to get the 
instructions on how to perform a reset for her specific iBook model - 
the instructions are slightly different for different models.  You 
can also try a reset in Open Firmware - power up the iBook and 
immediately hold down the command, option, and O (oh, not zero) and F 
keys until the screen lights up and dumps you into an icky Open 
Firmware command line environment.  Try these commands (without the 
quotes) - press return after each command - "reset-nvram" - 
"set-defaults" - "reset-all".  The last command should cause the 
iBook to reboot and hopefully everything will now be squared away. 
You'll need to set the clock once more, but it might now start 
keeping the time correctly.

3. Still more likely, since you mention it is an older iBook - the 
rechargeable battery is shot.  With the best of treatment, they'll 
still last only about 4-5 years tops.  If you don't have the iBook 
plugged in and the main battery is dead, there isn't anyplace to get 
power to run the clock, since there isn't an internal PRAM/clock 
battery.  Solution: keep it plugged in or get a new main battery (be 
ready to spend moderate bucks).

If she has internet access that doesn't use dial up, there is also a 
gross nasty icky (but free!) work-around under OS X - go into the 
date-and-time system preference panel and turn on "set date and time 
automatically".  Then every time the iBook boots up, it will reach 
out into the net and reset its own clock to match the time from the 
network.  Since this happens at startup, it will look like the clock 
kept the right time and all will be well with the world.

Hope this helps.

Jerry
-- 
Jerry W. Ethington
245 Hawkeegan Drive
Frankfort, KY 40601-3912
(502)223-5489
(502)682-2607 cellular
jethington at mac.com

"Quando omni, flunkus moritati."
(When all else fails, play dead.)
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MacGroup: Quicktime 5.0

[Jerry Ethington]

>Group
>I have tried to excess apples website to download Quicktime 5.0 to play stuff
>on my computer.
>Does anyone know how to get quicktime. I have talked to aol and they say for
>my system I have an older version 5.0 of Internet Explorer that limits the
>websites I can load. They suggested getting 5.1.7 of Internet Explorer at
>mactropia.com but says I need an expert to even load the new browser.
>I don't want to have to go through all that to get quicktime 5 and since I am
>running an older version of OS 8.5, it limits my internet travel.
>Any suggestions.
>Thanks
>Jan

Hi, Jan.  The first thing you should do is update your MacOS version. 
MacOS 8.6 is a free download, and fixes a bunch of bugs that were 
running around in MacOS 8.5 - and some of the newer browsers require 
the bug fixes in 8.6.  Go to 
 to grab the 
updater - afraid it is about 35MB, but at least the cost is right.

After you are running 8.6, you can upgrade to newer browsers and a 
new version of QuickTime.  The last version of QuickTime that can run 
on MacOS 8.6 is QuickTime 6.0.3, get it at 
.

You can install the last version of Internet Explorer, 5.1.7, from 
.  You can also use the 
Netscape Communicator browser, version 4.8 - get it at 
.  Also 
available is the newer, somewhat slower, but nicer and newer Netscape 
7.0.2 browser from 
.

I'm not sure about other 3rd party browsers like Opera or OmniWeb - 
maybe someone else can chime in about versions that would run on 
MacOS 8.6.  I kind of doubt they will be able to display a site that 
Internet Explorer or Netscape can't, but you might like their 
features better.

With those updates, you'll have your best shot at surfing current 
websites.  If you hit a site that won't work even after these 
updates, I'm afraid you'll need to get a newer computer that can run 
MacOS X so you can run the latest, greatest, most current browsers. 
Hope this info helps.

Jerry
-- 
Jerry W. Ethington
245 Hawkeegan Drive
Frankfort, KY 40601-3912
(502)223-5489
(502)682-2607 cellular
jethington at mac.com

"Quando omni, flunkus moritati."
(When all else fails, play dead.)





| The next meeting of the Louisville Computer Society will
| be February 22. The LCS Web page is .
| List posting address: 
| List Web page: 

MacGroup: OS X Server Question

[Jerry Ethington]

>I never dreamed we'd need it either. The regular NAV doesn't require 
>OS X Server, but the new Corporate version of NAV for Macintosh 
>contains an Admin Console that allows you to monitor and update NAV 
>across the network to multiple machines. In the documentation it 
>says this must run on a machine running OS X server. Our servers are 
>all PC based and I use Apple's Remote Desktop to administer all our 
>Macs from my machine, so I haven't had any experience with OS X 
>Server. Glad to know it will run on our old machines. Just wondered 
>what the X Serve was and if we really needed it as it was a 
>requirement on Apple's site for using OS X Server.
>--
>Thanks,
>Beth

OS X Server should run just fine on pretty much any G4 tower.  The 
Mach kernel (the Unix-based guts that OS X is layered on top of) is 
actually identical on both OS X client and server, so if you look at 
the OS X server technical specs you'll see it runs on the same 
hardware configs that the client version runs on - heck, I've got OS 
X server running on an ancient original iMac G3, and it runs fine. 
The differences between the client and server distributions are that 
Server is tuned slightly differently at startup, it supports 
server-specific hardware like Xserve and Xserve RAID storage systems, 
and the software bundled is different - no consumer-oriented stuff 
like iMovie on Server, but a lot more server software - management 
tools, Quicktime streaming server, stuff like that.  But down at the 
operating system level way down deep, the client and server are 
identical, so they run on the same hardware.

Xserve is Apple's entry into the server market, and it is actually a 
pretty impressive product on price, performance, and features. 
Apple's earlier efforts at building server hardware were kind of 
lame, but they really did a great job with Xserve.  It is a rackmount 
1U sized box - tiny - with excellent numbers for low power 
consumption and heat output, real important as you stack up a pile of 
servers in a rack.  Large sites can save a ton of money just off the 
lower power consumption and air conditioning requirements compared to 
PC based servers.  And they did a LOT of work to make it a serious 
server with attention to high availability - lots of hot swappable 
components like hard drives and fans, and extensive hardware 
monitoring capability - it can send you a page or email if a fan 
stops spinning, for example, so you can replace it on the fly before 
the system overheats and has to shut down.  A pretty neat piece of 
hardware - for the first time, Apple server hardware that can be 
taken very seriously for any server application.

Hope this helps, ask away if I failed to answer any questions.

Jerry
-- 
Jerry W. Ethington
245 Hawkeegan Drive
Frankfort, KY 40601-3912
(502)223-5489
(502)682-2607 cellular
jethington at mac.com

"Quando omni, flunkus moritati."
(When all else fails, play dead.)
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MacGroup: Music File Sizes

[Jerry Ethington]

>Now this answers the question I sent in the other day, but it 
>brought forth a new question.  Does it mean that all music I buy 
>through iTunes are in AIFF non compressed and that when I make a new 
>CD from  my iTunes playlist, ( which I think I am allowed 5)  will 
>that CD then not play on any, some or all CDplayers? Or can I 
>manipulate it by changing or setting the encding on mp3's?
>Marta

Music bought through the iTunes music store is in AAC 128kbps 
compressed format.  When you burn a CD from such music, iTunes 
automatically decompresses it before it burns it out onto the CD. 
The CDs can be played on pretty much any player anywhere - all car CD 
players, home players, CD Walkman players, everything.

MP3 CDs are a special case - only some newer players can handle them. 
It is a CD with compressed MP3s on it instead of uncompressed music, 
so a CD can hold more songs.  iTunes can make such a CD for you, but 
if your music isn't already stored in MP3 format, you will have to 
use the menu to convert your music into MP3 format before you can 
burn it on an MP3 CD.  Players that can read MP3 CDs are getting more 
common, but if your player is more than a year or so old it most 
likely can't read MP3 CDs.

Hope this helps.

Jerry
-- 
Jerry W. Ethington
245 Hawkeegan Drive
Frankfort, KY 40601-3912
(502)223-5489
(502)682-2607 cellular
jethington at mac.com

"Quando omni, flunkus moritati."
(When all else fails, play dead.)





| The next meeting of the Louisville Computer Society will
| be January 25. The LCS Web page is .
| List posting address: 
| List Web page: 

MacGroup: iTunes encoding

[Jerry Ethington]

>And while I am at it again - my encoder for importing music into 
>iTunes is set to Mp3 encoder. Should I change that to AIFF?  Not 
>knowing what actually either does,  I wonder  whether someone could 
>clarify this mystery.
>Marta

I think everyone's confusing AIFF format with AAC format.  Crash 
course in terrible nasty acronyms for the day:

AIFF = Audio Interchange file format.  Essentially, this is what is 
actually recorded on a CD.  If you import a CD into iTunes using AIFF 
format, you'll get exactly what was on the CD so it will be 
absolutely top quality, every bit as good as the original CD, but the 
resulting files are HUGE.  Typical songs are around 50 MB, typical 
CDs are around 600-700 MB.  These will fill up a hard drive in a big 
hurry, and an iPod in an even bigger hurry.  Unless you are a serious 
heavy-duty audiophile with real good hearing and real good audio 
equipment, you probably don't want to store stuff in this format - it 
just eats up too much disk space.

MP3 - this is a compressed audio format.  It takes up a LOT less disk 
space, and most people can't tell much difference between the 
compressed MP3 version of a song and the original version from a CD. 
This is the most common format, and the most portable - all the 
little flash memory based MP3 players use it, PC users can use it.

What Apple developed a couple of years ago for the iPod/iTunes is the 
newer AAC format - Advanced Audio Codec.  It is a newer software 
technology than MP3, and compresses music quite a bit more than MP3 
does while keeping about the same sound quality.  I've read a 
boatload of tests by audiophiles with way better hearing than my old 
ears and way better audio equipment, and the consensus seems to be 
that a song encoded with AAC at 128kbps sounds about as good as an 
MP3 encoded at 192kbps - so for the same sound quality, AAC will eat 
about 1/3 less disk space than MP3.  It isn't quite as portable as 
MP3 format - PC users may have to install iTunes to listen to it, and 
there are few portable players other than the iPod than can play AAC 
songs.  It saves tons of disk space though, so Apple pushes AAC 
format for the iPod - you can cram more music into the iPod since a 
song uses less disk space.  Songs you purchase from the iTunes music 
store are in AAC format encoded at 128kbps.

Bottom line - if the portability of the music is important to you 
because you want to use the songs with other players than the iPod or 
want to share music with PC users that may not have iTunes installed, 
use MP3.  If you want to save more disk space both on your Mac and 
your iPod, use AAC format.

I'd say most people with iPods use the default AAC format at 128kbps 
these days.  Most people can't tell any difference between music 
compressed at this rate and the original CD.  Songs end up using 
about 5MB of disk space, so even the original 5GB iPod can hold 
around 1000 songs with music encoded this way.  If you want still 
better sound quality, you can encode using AAC at 192kbps - the test 
reports you can read on the web say even audiophiles have trouble 
telling the difference between a song encoded this way from the 
original CD.

Hope this answers all your questions, Marta, have a fine day.

Jerry
-- 
Jerry W. Ethington
245 Hawkeegan Drive
Frankfort, KY 40601-3912
(502)223-5489
(502)682-2607 cellular
jethington at mac.com

"Quando omni, flunkus moritati."
(When all else fails, play dead.)
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MacGroup: OS X Server

[Jerry Ethington]

>Is there anyone out there who has set up and used OS X Server? I'd 
>like to ask you a few questions.
>
>Dan Crutcher

I run OS X Server on one of my systems in my home office, Dan - I'd 
be glad to take a shot at answering your questions.

There are no stupid questions, but as always, stupid answers are 
still free .

Jerry
-- 
Jerry W. Ethington
245 Hawkeegan Drive
Frankfort, KY 40601-3912
(502)223-5489
(502)682-2607 cellular
jethington at mac.com

"Quando omni, flunkus moritati."
(When all else fails, play dead.)


| The next meeting of the Louisville Computer Society will
| be June 22. The LCS Web page is .
| List posting address: 
| List Web page: