date:20090314


Wilton Strickland wrote:

Gerry, if you had had hypoxia (lack of oxygen) in the car, you would have
NEVER known it or felt anything.

:
Would it be about the same as a pilot who loses pressurization at high 
altitude?

Gerry

If it's hypoxia due to your own breathing, shouldn't the CO2 level go up as 
the

O2 level goes down? Doesn't the CO2 level get up to the lung-burning level?
I recall a couple of idiots who climbed inside a helium inflated something 
or
other, passed out before they realized they weren't getting oxygen, died 
soon

after.
Mitch

Often wondered if the CO2 level might have been high in that car because it 
was some of the soundest sleep I ever had.  I read someplace that birds put 
their heads under their wings to raise the CO2 level so they can sleep.

Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


Archer wrote:

Now that you mention it, someone did say something about a smoke test.
One problem is that the roof was built using prebuilt trusses that make
it nearly impossible to get up there and move around without sticking a
foot through the ceiling drywall.  I probably ought to hire it done.


I walked the length of my parents' house a couple of months ago. 12" 
fiberglass

batts between prebuilt trusses on 24" centers, with 1/2" drywall nailed
underneath. I put on knee boots and walked on the trusses. Since I was 
threading
my upper body through the truss bracing, there wasn't any danger of losing 
my
balance. The fiberglass popped back up pretty well after I walked on it. 
Just go
slow, don't stomp (you don't want nail pops in the ceiling paint) and put 
your

feet on wood, not gypsum. Oh, and wear a coat you don't mind getting filthy.
Mitch.
___
Hi Mitch,
That's exactly what I have; the likely difference being it might have a 
lower slope since the roof doesn't have to support ice and snow.  Have to 
get up there and try taping some of the joint close by the stairs to see how 
it goes..

Thanks,
Gerry 
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


Hi Wilton,
Old houses are interesting.  When I was a kid we lived in one in Louisville 
that was built during the gaslight era; the gas jets were still in place and 
still worked.  The walls, and even the inside partitions were so thick, 
ductwork was simply slide down inside them when they installed a new furnace 
system.  The windows all had panelled folding "doors" that apparently took 
the place of curtains and blinds.  They had been removed and curtain rods 
installed before we moved there and they had been put  in the attic. They 
made great playhouses.  There was a cistern in the backyard and a garage 
opening on to the alley.  Of course, you probably found similar things in 
the houses you worked over.

Gerry
-
From: Wilton Strickland
My house has a REAL widow's walk centered on the roof between two chimneys.
The area is accessible via a permanently installed ladder that rises steeply
(but not vertically) about 15 - 18 feet above the attic floor, which is
accessed via a walkup stairway.  At the top of the ladder, one must lift and
push aside a nautical-type hatch to enter onto the widow's walk, which is
surrounded by a Chippendale railing.  House is in Georgian colonial revival
style; steep, slate hip roof; 3 small dormers on front and rear roof areas;
placing of front and rear windows and doors is very symmetrical as are the
chimneys.  Coast is about 100 miles to the east.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Archer" 
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


Now that you mention it, someone did say something about a smoke test.  One
problem is that the roof was built using prebuilt trusses that make it
nearly impossible to get up there and move around without sticking a foot
through the ceiling drywall.  I probably ought to hire it done.


First time I had ever heard of a "widows walk".  Is your house by the sea?
Is there a staircase or ladder going up to the widows walk or is it just
decorative?

"A widow's walk (or roofwalk) is a railed rooftop platform, typically on a
coastal house, originally designed to observe vessels at sea. The name comes
from the wives of mariners, who would watch for their spouses' return. In
some instances, the ocean took the lives of the mariners, leaving the women
as widows. The women would often thereafter gaze out to sea wishing beyond
hope that their loved ones would return home and hence the name widow's walk
was born.
Also beyond their use as viewing platforms, they are frequently built around
the chimney of the residence, thus creating an easy access route to the
structure. This allows the residents of the home to pour sand down burning
chimneys in the hope of preventing the house from burning down."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Widow's_walk

Thanks,
Gerry
---
From: Wilton Strickland
'Sounds like you may have an intake/return leak.  I have found several (at
least 3 during the 15 years I inspected domestic systems) with the return
ducts lying COMPLETELY open under houses - ALL the air exiting supply
registers in the house was coming from under the house!  I've seen many
others with lesser leaks, of course.  We do need to be aware of those
possibilities, understand what happens in the system and try to close those
leaks on BOTH sides of the system.  Duct leaks on both sides of the system
do a good job of removing money from our bank accounts and fatten those of
the power companies.

Most heating/cooling system ducts I've seen are VERY poorly installed and
leak like sieves.  Most I've seen are assembled very loosely with worthless
"duct" tape that falls off 'bout the time the check to the installer clears,
screws or staples with lotsa leaking cracks.  Check the ducts thoroughly and
try to seal them as completely as reasonably possible.  Seal leaks with
mastic and/or a VERY good tape (NOT so-called "duct/duck" tape) made
specifically for really sealing ducts - the very sticky, shiny, metallic
tape is usually good for it, and there may be better stuff now.  There are
companies who do a pressure (fan door) test of duct systems with aid of
"smoke candles" to find leaks and then work to seal them.  'Been 8 years
since I did an inspection, so I've lost touch with costs, etc.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Archer" 
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


Hi Wilton,
Here's another A/C question you or someone else might be able answer.
Because the electric bill seems high, I suspected that there might be a leak
in the fiberglas ductwork  Since this is a "closed" A/C system with no fresh
air coming in except when the doors or windows are open, I concluded that if
I opened a window a few inches and taped a kleenex in the opening that I
could tell i

Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


Archer wrote:

Maybe someone else on the
list can explain why people can survive in a closed up house or car.


The same reason a closed up car fills up with water and sinks in under a 
minute?

Mitch.
__
That's probably it.
Gerry 
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


Wilton Strickland wrote:

Gerry, if you had had hypoxia (lack of oxygen) in the car, you would have
NEVER known it or felt anything 


If it's hypoxia due to your own breathing, shouldn't the CO2 level go up as the 
O2 level goes down? Doesn't the CO2 level get up to the lung-burning level?


I recall a couple of idiots who climbed inside a helium inflated something or 
other, passed out before they realized they weren't getting oxygen, died soon 
after.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid

Gerry, if you had had hypoxia (lack of oxygen) in the car, you would have
NEVER known it or felt anything - like the guys on the flight from FL to
somewhere in upper Midwest several years ago - one of 'em was a pro golfer,
I think.  In the movies, when trying to dramatize hypoxia, they go to
coughing, gasping, etc., - ain't like that at all - may slowly get slightly
euphoric, thinking everything's fine, may not be able to think as fast as
normal and just doze off - gone.
IT IS DANGEROUS TO CLOSE YOURSELF UP IN A WELL-SEALED VEHICLE - OUGHT TO
LEAVE AT LEAST A SMALL OPENING OF SOME TYPE.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Archer" 
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


> From: Curt Raymond
> Umm, this may be a stupid question too but if theres no air loss somewhere
> to be made up somewhere else wouldn't you eventually breathe up all the
> oxygen in the house and die?
> -Curt
>
> Hi Curt,
> I've wondered about that myself because I used to pull in a rest area and
> sleep sometimes four hours on the way home from work on weekends.  The old
> '67 200D would have all the windows shut tight yet I never felt short of
> breath or had ill effects from it.  Maybe someone else on the list can
> explain why people can survive in a closed up house or car.
> Gerry
>
>
> Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 16:24:25 -0400
> From: "Archer" 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Message-ID: <41520a1f1ce647e8bbd2d3053a3e5...@billardef4d8b3>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"
>
> Hi Wilton,
> Here's another A/C question you or someone else might be able answer.
> Because the electric bill seems high, I suspected that there might be a
leak
> in the fiberglas ductwork Since this is a "closed" A/C system with no
fresh
> air coming in except when the doors or windows are open, I concluded that
if
> I opened a window a few inches and taped a kleenex in the opening that I
> could tell if a leak in the return ductwork was sucking in air (gaining
air)
> which would make the kleenex billow out; or if a leak in the ductwork to
the
> cold air registers was blowing cold air out in the attic which would make
> the kleenex billow in (losing air).
> It turned out that the kleenex billowed out which meant that there was a
> leak in the return ductwork in the attic and the house was gaining air
from
> the attic. Where was this excess air going? I would guess it was going out
> through the usual leaks around the doors and windows or even up through
the
> range hood vent or other vents.
>
> When we first built the house about 13 years ago, I did the same "kleenex
> test" and found that there was a "big leak", so I called the company that
> installed the A/C. He went over it with his gauges and instruments and
said
> there was no leak. I tried to explain that since the house was losing or
> gaining air there had to be leak, but I was never able to make him
> understand that there had to be a leak. After waiting a a couple of weeks
> deciding what to do, I did the test a second time and there was no leak.
> The Kleenex hung straight down. I guessed that since the ductwork was put
> together with staples and duct tape that a loose area of duct tape had
> "resealed" itself.
> (Note: Using a kleenex, I made sure there was no inside or outside air
> movement that might have blown the Kleenex taped in the open window.)
>
> Since I was only using simple physics for the tests, I'm wondering if the
> A/C guy was right and I was wrong since he knew a lot more than I did
about
> ducted A/C systems?
> Thanks,
> Gerry
> -- next part --
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.13/2001 - Release Date: 03/14/09
06:54:00
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] The 140 is back on the road


Curt Raymond wrote:

The Ranger has decent tires but they're 6 years old although they only have 
30,000 miles...


The current recommendation, from the people who make their living getting you to 
buy tires, is to replace 8 years after the week of manufacture.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


Archer wrote:
Maybe someone else on the 
list can explain why people can survive in a closed up house or car.


The same reason a closed up car fills up with water and sinks in under a minute?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid

'Could, IF the space were COMPLETELY sealed.  Wood, gas and oil fired
furnaces, fireplaces, etc., MUST have "make-up" air for combustion and
chimney losses and/or to vent combustion gases, carbon monoxide, etc.  A
house so tight so as to pose a danger of hypoxia (lack of oxygen) is
extremely rare - doors, windows, floors, ceilings are VERY rarely completely
sealed.  With the push for the last 15 to 20 years to make houses more
energy efficient, there IS some danger of making one too tight, but that
danger leans more toward not allowing harmful vapors/chemicals to escape,
rather than lack of oxygen.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Curt Raymond" 
To: "Diesel List" 
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


Umm, this may be a stupid question too but if theres no air loss somewhere
to be made up somewhere else wouldn't you eventually breathe up all the
oxygen in the house and die?

-Curt


Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 16:24:25 -0400
From: "Archer" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID: <41520a1f1ce647e8bbd2d3053a3e5...@billardef4d8b3>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"

Hi Wilton,
Here's another A/C question you or someone else might be able answer.
Because the electric bill seems high, I suspected that there might be a leak
in the fiberglas ductwork Since this is a "closed" A/C system with no fresh
air coming in except when the doors or windows are open, I concluded that if
I opened a window a few inches and taped a kleenex in the opening that I
could tell if a leak in the return ductwork was sucking in air (gaining air)
which would make the kleenex billow out; or if a leak in the ductwork to the
cold air registers was blowing cold air out in the attic which would make
the kleenex billow in (losing air).
It turned out that the kleenex billowed out which meant that there was a
leak in the return ductwork in the attic and the house was gaining air from
the attic. Where was this excess air going? I would guess it was going out
through the usual leaks around the doors and windows or even up through the
range hood vent or other vents.

When we first built the house about 13 years ago, I did the same "kleenex
test" and found that there was a "big leak", so I called the company that
installed the A/C. He went over it with his gauges and instruments and said
there was no leak. I tried to explain that since the house was losing or
gaining air there had to be leak, but I was never able to make him
understand that there had to be a leak. After waiting a a couple of weeks
deciding what to do, I did the test a second time and there was no leak.
The Kleenex hung straight down. I guessed that since the ductwork was put
together with staples and duct tape that a loose area of duct tape had
"resealed" itself.
(Note: Using a kleenex, I made sure there was no inside or outside air
movement that might have blown the Kleenex taped in the open window.)

Since I was only using simple physics for the tests, I'm wondering if the
A/C guy was right and I was wrong since he knew a lot more than I did about
ducted A/C systems?
Thanks,
Gerry




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Re: [MBZ] Audi diesel

2009-03-14 Thread Mountain Man

Curt wrote:
> Dude, you gotta be on that like ugly on an ape, how much did you sell the 
> Quantum for? If anything this car is LESS common.
>

Isn't the BMW diesel even more rare?
mao

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid

Must be the same reason, cars have vents. If they didn't and you put on the 
blower set to draw air from outside the windows would blow out...

I know people with newer houses have trouble with woodstoves because the stove 
can draw too much combustion air and... Not a problem where I live for sure.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 22:20:49 -0400
From: "Archer" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID: <6e4f442da42249c58e2d3c07f864a...@billardef4d8b3>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"

From: Curt Raymond
Umm, this may be a stupid question too but if theres no air loss somewhere 
to be made up somewhere else wouldn't you eventually breathe up all the 
oxygen in the house and die?
-Curt

Hi Curt,
I've wondered about that myself because I used to pull in a rest area and 
sleep sometimes four hours on the way home from work on weekends.  The old 
'67 200D would have all the windows shut tight yet I never felt short of 
breath or had ill effects from it.  Maybe someone else on the list can 
explain why people can survive in a closed up house or car.
Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


Archer wrote:
Now that you mention it, someone did say something about a smoke test.  
One problem is that the roof was built using prebuilt trusses that make 
it nearly impossible to get up there and move around without sticking a 
foot through the ceiling drywall.  I probably ought to hire it done.


I walked the length of my parents' house a couple of months ago. 12" fiberglass 
batts between prebuilt trusses on 24" centers, with 1/2" drywall nailed 
underneath. I put on knee boots and walked on the trusses. Since I was threading 
my upper body through the truss bracing, there wasn't any danger of losing my 
balance. The fiberglass popped back up pretty well after I walked on it. Just go 
slow, don't stomp (you don't want nail pops in the ceiling paint) and put your 
feet on wood, not gypsum. Oh, and wear a coat you don't mind getting filthy.


Mitch.



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Re: [MBZ] Audi diesel

Dude, you gotta be on that like ugly on an ape, how much did you sell the 
Quantum for? If anything this car is LESS common.

Rusty has some parts but back when I was almost buying the Quantum I found 
http://vwdieselparts.com/ which is pretty cool.
Dunno if you price it right maybe I'll make an OkieQ and drive it east. Which I 
would have done with the Quantum if Don had fixed the door locks before I got 
there rather than after.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 20:47:54 -0500
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" 
Subject: [MBZ] Audi diesel
To: Banned List ,     mercedes Mailing List
    
Message-ID: <49bc5e4a.2090...@striplin.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Isnt this basically the quantum?  Wonder if its worth messing with?

1983 Audi 5000 Turbo Diesel
Reply to: sale-tdhup-1073919...@craigslist.org
Date: 2009-03-13, 6:47PM

83 Audi 5000 turbo Diesel. The body and interior are very nice. the 
engine blew a head gasket last summer and it has been setting since. Tag 
has expired. I have a clean title.
300.00 obo
Might consider a trade.

     * Location: Mid town Tulsa
     * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other 
commercial interests

Original URL:http://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/1073919731.html
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
  89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
  84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


  
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid

My house has a REAL widow's walk centered on the roof between two chimneys.
The area is accessible via a permanently installed ladder that rises steeply
(but not vertically) about 15 - 18 feet above the attic floor, which is
accessed via a walkup stairway.  At the top of the ladder, one must lift and
push aside a nautical-type hatch to enter onto the widow's walk, which is
surrounded by a Chippendale railing.  House is in Georgian colonial revival
style; steep, slate hip roof; 3 small dormers on front and rear roof areas;
placing of front and rear windows and doors is very symmetrical as are the
chimneys.  Coast is about 100 miles to the east.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Archer" 
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


Now that you mention it, someone did say something about a smoke test.  One
problem is that the roof was built using prebuilt trusses that make it
nearly impossible to get up there and move around without sticking a foot
through the ceiling drywall.  I probably ought to hire it done.


First time I had ever heard of a "widows walk".  Is your house by the sea?
Is there a staircase or ladder going up to the widows walk or is it just
decorative?

"A widow's walk (or roofwalk) is a railed rooftop platform, typically on a
coastal house, originally designed to observe vessels at sea. The name comes
from the wives of mariners, who would watch for their spouses' return. In
some instances, the ocean took the lives of the mariners, leaving the women
as widows. The women would often thereafter gaze out to sea wishing beyond
hope that their loved ones would return home and hence the name widow's walk
was born.
Also beyond their use as viewing platforms, they are frequently built around
the chimney of the residence, thus creating an easy access route to the
structure. This allows the residents of the home to pour sand down burning
chimneys in the hope of preventing the house from burning down."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Widow's_walk

Thanks,
Gerry
---
From: Wilton Strickland
'Sounds like you may have an intake/return leak.  I have found several (at
least 3 during the 15 years I inspected domestic systems) with the return
ducts lying COMPLETELY open under houses - ALL the air exiting supply
registers in the house was coming from under the house!  I've seen many
others with lesser leaks, of course.  We do need to be aware of those
possibilities, understand what happens in the system and try to close those
leaks on BOTH sides of the system.  Duct leaks on both sides of the system
do a good job of removing money from our bank accounts and fatten those of
the power companies.

Most heating/cooling system ducts I've seen are VERY poorly installed and
leak like sieves.  Most I've seen are assembled very loosely with worthless
"duct" tape that falls off 'bout the time the check to the installer clears,
screws or staples with lotsa leaking cracks.  Check the ducts thoroughly and
try to seal them as completely as reasonably possible.  Seal leaks with
mastic and/or a VERY good tape (NOT so-called "duct/duck" tape) made
specifically for really sealing ducts - the very sticky, shiny, metallic
tape is usually good for it, and there may be better stuff now.  There are
companies who do a pressure (fan door) test of duct systems with aid of
"smoke candles" to find leaks and then work to seal them.  'Been 8 years
since I did an inspection, so I've lost touch with costs, etc.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Archer" 
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


Hi Wilton,
Here's another A/C question you or someone else might be able answer.
Because the electric bill seems high, I suspected that there might be a leak
in the fiberglas ductwork  Since this is a "closed" A/C system with no fresh
air coming in except when the doors or windows are open, I concluded that if
I opened a window a few inches and taped a kleenex in the opening that I
could tell if a leak in the return ductwork was sucking in air (gaining air)
which would make the kleenex billow out; or if a leak in the ductwork to the
cold air registers was blowing cold air out in the attic which would make
the kleenex billow in (losing air).
It turned out that the kleenex billowed out which meant that there was a
leak in the return ductwork in the attic and the house was gaining air from
the attic.  Where was this excess air going?  I would guess it was going out
through the usual leaks around the doors and windows or even up through the
range hood vent or other vents.

When we first built the house about 13 years ago, I did the same "kleenex
test" and found that there was a "big leak", so I called the company that
installed the A/C.  He went over it with his gauges and instrum

Re: [MBZ] The 140 is back on the road

I'm in nearly the same boat, the 240D needs new tires before May 1 (when 
studded snows become illegal). The 190D has snows on now but 2 of the all 
seasons are worn out (because I'd put off an alignment 2 years ago). The Ranger 
has decent tires but they're 6 years old although they only have 30,000 miles...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 20:32:47 -0500
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The 140 is back on the road
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <49bc5abf.8000...@striplin.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

well, took the car to town just now, everything great.  Had a flat tire. 
  When it rains it pours.  Think I need to order some new tires for that 
car anyway. Starting to show wear around the edges.  140;s are hard on 
tires.

Crap.  As it stand now, the 140 could use some new tires, my Duramax 
needs new tires (big $$), my other 190D needs new tires, I would like to 
put some new tires on my suburban, although the tires are ok, it does 
have one miss matched tire on the back with I dont like.

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


Allan Streib wrote:

Sort of on the subject -- I installed a programmable thermostat at the
beginning of February.  My gas usage, compared to the previous February,
DOUBLED.  And the average temperature was about 1 degree warmer this
year.


Do they read the meter every month or do they estimate sometimes?

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Re: [MBZ] key-less alternator?

2009-03-14 Thread Gary Hurst

so far these types have been working out.  i don't know their historic
origin as they've only started to pop up in front of me recently.

On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 8:09 PM, Allan Streib  wrote:

> "Archer"  writes:
>
> > Was there an instruction sheet in the box?  With a wavy washer and no
> > key, it would seem like they might specify a tightening torque since
> > previous alternators had keys.
>
> Yeah -- it said "tighten to manufacturer specifications".
>
> I just interpreted that as "really tight".  I put some blue threadlock
> on for good measure.
>
> So far so good.
>
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
>
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] seatbelt retractors


Barry Stark wrote:

Just curious if there is anyone out there that has ever successfully opened
up and clean/re-lubed their retractors. 


I did it with a 1975 Honda back in '84. Filthy would be an understatement.
Worked fine after cleanup. All my Benz belts work, so I haven't done one of 
those.

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


From: Curt Raymond
Umm, this may be a stupid question too but if theres no air loss somewhere 
to be made up somewhere else wouldn't you eventually breathe up all the 
oxygen in the house and die?

-Curt

Hi Curt,
I've wondered about that myself because I used to pull in a rest area and 
sleep sometimes four hours on the way home from work on weekends.  The old 
'67 200D would have all the windows shut tight yet I never felt short of 
breath or had ill effects from it.  Maybe someone else on the list can 
explain why people can survive in a closed up house or car.

Gerry


Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 16:24:25 -0400
From: "Archer" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID: <41520a1f1ce647e8bbd2d3053a3e5...@billardef4d8b3>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"

Hi Wilton,
Here's another A/C question you or someone else might be able answer.
Because the electric bill seems high, I suspected that there might be a leak
in the fiberglas ductwork Since this is a "closed" A/C system with no fresh
air coming in except when the doors or windows are open, I concluded that if
I opened a window a few inches and taped a kleenex in the opening that I
could tell if a leak in the return ductwork was sucking in air (gaining air)
which would make the kleenex billow out; or if a leak in the ductwork to the
cold air registers was blowing cold air out in the attic which would make
the kleenex billow in (losing air).
It turned out that the kleenex billowed out which meant that there was a
leak in the return ductwork in the attic and the house was gaining air from
the attic. Where was this excess air going? I would guess it was going out
through the usual leaks around the doors and windows or even up through the
range hood vent or other vents.

When we first built the house about 13 years ago, I did the same "kleenex
test" and found that there was a "big leak", so I called the company that
installed the A/C. He went over it with his gauges and instruments and said
there was no leak. I tried to explain that since the house was losing or
gaining air there had to be leak, but I was never able to make him
understand that there had to be a leak. After waiting a a couple of weeks
deciding what to do, I did the test a second time and there was no leak.
The Kleenex hung straight down. I guessed that since the ductwork was put
together with staples and duct tape that a loose area of duct tape had
"resealed" itself.
(Note: Using a kleenex, I made sure there was no inside or outside air
movement that might have blown the Kleenex taped in the open window.)

Since I was only using simple physics for the tests, I'm wondering if the
A/C guy was right and I was wrong since he knew a lot more than I did about
ducted A/C systems?
Thanks,
Gerry 
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Re: [MBZ] barrel scraping again

2009-03-14 Thread Gary Hurst

he has a point though.  low class car.  low class guy.  "ooh, look at me!  I
have a secret!"

most decent americans are pretty disgusted by the california mentality at
this point.  why can't these 3 states just join up with british columbia and
start their own country, so we can build a big fence and man the border?

On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 5:13 PM,  wrote:

> > ...what do you expect from a cheap class driver..
> >
> Christ Almighty, are you back to this again? Your lack of imagination is
> cosmic.
>
> RLE
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> **
> Need a job? Find employment help in your area.
> (
> http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp0005
> )
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[MBZ] cheap BMW diesel in my backyard


1985 BMW Turbo Diesel
Reply to: sale-7nw9c-1071569...@craigslist.org
Date: 2009-03-12, 9:58AM

This sale is for a 1985 524 td BMW. The transmission is out and I'm not 
sure if it will start. It has been sitting in the same spot for a few 
years now. If you have any questions about this car feel free to ask me 
anything.


* Location: Claremore
* it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other 
commercial interests


Original URL:http://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/1071569791.html
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] Audi diesel


Isnt this basically the quantum?  Wonder if its worth messing with?

1983 Audi 5000 Turbo Diesel
Reply to: sale-tdhup-1073919...@craigslist.org
Date: 2009-03-13, 6:47PM

83 Audi 5000 turbo Diesel. The body and interior are very nice. the 
engine blew a head gasket last summer and it has been setting since. Tag 
has expired. I have a clean title.

300.00 obo
Might consider a trade.

* Location: Mid town Tulsa
* it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other 
commercial interests


Original URL:http://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/1073919731.html
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid

Umm, this may be a stupid question too but if theres no air loss somewhere to 
be made up somewhere else wouldn't you eventually breathe up all the oxygen in 
the house and die?

-Curt

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 16:24:25 -0400
From: "Archer" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID: <41520a1f1ce647e8bbd2d3053a3e5...@billardef4d8b3>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"

Hi Wilton,
Here's another A/C question you or someone else might be able answer.
Because the electric bill seems high, I suspected that there might be a leak 
in the fiberglas ductwork  Since this is a "closed" A/C system with no fresh 
air coming in except when the doors or windows are open, I concluded that if 
I opened a window a few inches and taped a kleenex in the opening that I 
could tell if a leak in the return ductwork was sucking in air (gaining air) 
which would make the kleenex billow out; or if a leak in the ductwork to the 
cold air registers was blowing cold air out in the attic which would make 
the kleenex billow in (losing air).
It turned out that the kleenex billowed out which meant that there was a 
leak in the return ductwork in the attic and the house was gaining air from 
the attic.  Where was this excess air going?  I would guess it was going out 
through the usual leaks around the doors and windows or even up through the 
range hood vent or other vents.

When we first built the house about 13 years ago, I did the same "kleenex 
test" and found that there was a "big leak", so I called the company that 
installed the A/C.  He went over it with his gauges and instruments and said 
there was no leak.  I tried to explain that since the house was losing or 
gaining air there had to be leak, but I was never able to make him 
understand that there had to be a leak.  After waiting a a couple of weeks 
deciding what to do, I did the test a second time and there was no leak. 
The Kleenex hung straight down.  I guessed that since the ductwork was put 
together with staples and duct tape that a loose area of duct tape had 
"resealed" itself.
(Note:  Using a kleenex, I made sure there was no inside or outside air 
movement that might have blown the Kleenex taped in the open window.)

Since I was only using simple physics for the tests, I'm wondering if the 
A/C guy was right and I was wrong since he knew a lot more than I did about 
ducted A/C systems?
Thanks,
Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?

We've got one of those bag type solar showers which works pretty good if its a 
sunny day and its not real cold out. In July they're fantastic, in May or 
October (or especially November) not so much.
The other thing is that when the weather is lousy, cold and rainy, is the time 
you'd most like a good hot shower...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 14:55:46 -0700
From: Redghost 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <746a6ab8-1cce-438b-9b09-1e1488baa...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes

What sort of solar coverage do you have?   The 55 gallon drum would be  
a good passive solar heater painted black and able to access full sun  
all day.  As you say, you want a shower at the end of the day, not  
first thing in the morning.  A series of drums would allow for good  
caloric gain during daylight and ample water more than tepid for a  
large group.

Could you also just build a thermal exchanger out of the stove and run  
your cold water through that, much as you outline?  Plumb storage  
tanks to the exchange and heat a larger amount of water this way and  
you can increase storage at a later date.

clay

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Re: [MBZ] The 140 is back on the road

well, took the car to town just now, everything great.  Had a flat tire. 
 When it rains it pours.  Think I need to order some new tires for that 
car anyway. Starting to show wear around the edges.  140;s are hard on 
tires.


Crap.  As it stand now, the 140 could use some new tires, my Duramax 
needs new tires (big $$), my other 190D needs new tires, I would like to 
put some new tires on my suburban, although the tires are ok, it does 
have one miss matched tire on the back with I dont like.


Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Well its a new tensioner, I replaced it a couple months ago because it 
was rattling.  The new one still rattled.  And not it keeps rattling, 
when cold.  When it warms up, it seems to quiet down.  I think I need to 
replace the shock, I didnt replace it.  I think the bushing where it 
hooks to the tensioner is worn out maybe.  Guess that could cause the 
rattle.


OK Don wrote:
I love it when a repair turns out to be simple! That broken tensioner 
could

have been a nightmare, depending on what broke where!

On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 4:15 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin 
wrote:



Spent all day with that car.  First I fixed the belt deal. Turns out the
bolt for the tensioner pulley broke completely off. WOW. OK, so I got 
that
all back together.  Next I decided to change the oil.  Done. Decided 
to swap
out the parking brake release handle that broke off some time ago.  
Finally,
swapped out the amp in the trunk for the radio. Have not had a 
working radio
in that car for probably a year.  Wife will be surprised when she 
gets home.

--







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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 
270.11.13/2001 - Release Date: 03/14/09 06:54:00






--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?

Had done. In fact I was basing most of my idea on the crazy kiwi
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JeCMIcnvAlI&feature=related

-Curt

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 16:42:31 -0400
From: Mitch Haley 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <49bc16b7.10...@voyager.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Curt Raymond wrote:

> Comments? I'm trying to find factors I've overlooked...

Youtube search for redneck hot tub and see what kind of wood fired water 
heaters 
you find. Either that or paint some drums black and put them in a little 
greenhouse on the south side of the cabin, maybe with some reflectorized mylar 
behind and below them.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid

Now that you mention it, someone did say something about a smoke test.  One 
problem is that the roof was built using prebuilt trusses that make it 
nearly impossible to get up there and move around without sticking a foot 
through the ceiling drywall.  I probably ought to hire it done.


First time I had ever heard of a "widows walk".  Is your house by the sea? 
Is there a staircase or ladder going up to the widows walk or is it just 
decorative?


"A widow's walk (or roofwalk) is a railed rooftop platform, typically on a 
coastal house, originally designed to observe vessels at sea. The name comes 
from the wives of mariners, who would watch for their spouses' return. In 
some instances, the ocean took the lives of the mariners, leaving the women 
as widows. The women would often thereafter gaze out to sea wishing beyond 
hope that their loved ones would return home and hence the name widow's walk 
was born.
Also beyond their use as viewing platforms, they are frequently built around 
the chimney of the residence, thus creating an easy access route to the 
structure. This allows the residents of the home to pour sand down burning 
chimneys in the hope of preventing the house from burning down."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Widow's_walk

Thanks,
Gerry
---
From: Wilton Strickland
'Sounds like you may have an intake/return leak.  I have found several (at
least 3 during the 15 years I inspected domestic systems) with the return
ducts lying COMPLETELY open under houses - ALL the air exiting supply
registers in the house was coming from under the house!  I've seen many
others with lesser leaks, of course.  We do need to be aware of those
possibilities, understand what happens in the system and try to close those
leaks on BOTH sides of the system.  Duct leaks on both sides of the system
do a good job of removing money from our bank accounts and fatten those of
the power companies.

Most heating/cooling system ducts I've seen are VERY poorly installed and
leak like sieves.  Most I've seen are assembled very loosely with worthless
"duct" tape that falls off 'bout the time the check to the installer clears,
screws or staples with lotsa leaking cracks.  Check the ducts thoroughly and
try to seal them as completely as reasonably possible.  Seal leaks with
mastic and/or a VERY good tape (NOT so-called "duct/duck" tape) made
specifically for really sealing ducts - the very sticky, shiny, metallic
tape is usually good for it, and there may be better stuff now.  There are
companies who do a pressure (fan door) test of duct systems with aid of
"smoke candles" to find leaks and then work to seal them.  'Been 8 years
since I did an inspection, so I've lost touch with costs, etc.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Archer" 
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


Hi Wilton,
Here's another A/C question you or someone else might be able answer.
Because the electric bill seems high, I suspected that there might be a leak
in the fiberglas ductwork  Since this is a "closed" A/C system with no fresh
air coming in except when the doors or windows are open, I concluded that if
I opened a window a few inches and taped a kleenex in the opening that I
could tell if a leak in the return ductwork was sucking in air (gaining air)
which would make the kleenex billow out; or if a leak in the ductwork to the
cold air registers was blowing cold air out in the attic which would make
the kleenex billow in (losing air).
It turned out that the kleenex billowed out which meant that there was a
leak in the return ductwork in the attic and the house was gaining air from
the attic.  Where was this excess air going?  I would guess it was going out
through the usual leaks around the doors and windows or even up through the
range hood vent or other vents.

When we first built the house about 13 years ago, I did the same "kleenex
test" and found that there was a "big leak", so I called the company that
installed the A/C.  He went over it with his gauges and instruments and said
there was no leak.  I tried to explain that since the house was losing or
gaining air there had to be leak, but I was never able to make him
understand that there had to be a leak.  After waiting a a couple of weeks
deciding what to do, I did the test a second time and there was no leak.
The Kleenex hung straight down.  I guessed that since the ductwork was put
together with staples and duct tape that a loose area of duct tape had
"resealed" itself.
(Note:  Using a kleenex, I made sure there was no inside or outside air
movement that might have blown the Kleenex taped in the open window.)

Since I was only using simple physics for the tests, I'm wondering if the
A/C guy was right and I was wrong since he knew a lot more than I did about
ducted A/C systems?
Thanks,
Gerry

Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?

Caribou, just about the end of the US...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 10:53:29 -0500
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <49bbd2f9.2030...@striplin.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

geez, yep, this sounds like something that would go on in Maine.  Where 
exactly is this camp of yours?

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid

2009-03-14 Thread brian . toscano

That's what I do...  I figure the cycling doesn't help anyone but honeywell.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: Allan Streib 

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 20:59:36 
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid

Sort of on the subject -- I installed a programmable thermostat at the
beginning of February.  My gas usage, compared to the previous February,
DOUBLED.  And the average temperature was about 1 degree warmer this
year.

I'm not happy.  Evidently, in the case of my house, maintaining a set
temperature 24/7 is more efficient than letting the house cool off at
night and warming it back up in the morning.

Allan

-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid

Sort of on the subject -- I installed a programmable thermostat at the
beginning of February.  My gas usage, compared to the previous February,
DOUBLED.  And the average temperature was about 1 degree warmer this
year.

I'm not happy.  Evidently, in the case of my house, maintaining a set
temperature 24/7 is more efficient than letting the house cool off at
night and warming it back up in the morning.

Allan

-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid

'Sounds like you may have an intake/return leak.  I have found several (at
least 3 during the 15 years I inspected domestic systems) with the return
ducts lying COMPLETELY open under houses - ALL the air exiting supply
registers in the house was coming from under the house!  I've seen many
others with lesser leaks, of course.  We do need to be aware of those
possibilities, understand what happens in the system and try to close those
leaks on BOTH sides of the system.  Duct leaks on both sides of the system
do a good job of removing money from our bank accounts and fatten those of
the power companies.

Most heating/cooling system ducts I've seen are VERY poorly installed and
leak like sieves.  Most I've seen are assembled very loosely with worthless
"duct" tape that falls off 'bout the time the check to the installer clears,
screws or staples with lotsa leaking cracks.  Check the ducts thoroughly and
try to seal them as completely as reasonably possible.  Seal leaks with
mastic and/or a VERY good tape (NOT so-called "duct/duck" tape) made
specifically for really sealing ducts - the very sticky, shiny, metallic
tape is usually good for it, and there may be better stuff now.  There are
companies who do a pressure (fan door) test of duct systems with aid of
"smoke candles" to find leaks and then work to seal them.  'Been 8 years
since I did an inspection, so I've lost touch with costs, etc.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Archer" 
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


Hi Wilton,
Here's another A/C question you or someone else might be able answer.
Because the electric bill seems high, I suspected that there might be a leak
in the fiberglas ductwork  Since this is a "closed" A/C system with no fresh
air coming in except when the doors or windows are open, I concluded that if
I opened a window a few inches and taped a kleenex in the opening that I
could tell if a leak in the return ductwork was sucking in air (gaining air)
which would make the kleenex billow out; or if a leak in the ductwork to the
cold air registers was blowing cold air out in the attic which would make
the kleenex billow in (losing air).
It turned out that the kleenex billowed out which meant that there was a
leak in the return ductwork in the attic and the house was gaining air from
the attic.  Where was this excess air going?  I would guess it was going out
through the usual leaks around the doors and windows or even up through the
range hood vent or other vents.

When we first built the house about 13 years ago, I did the same "kleenex
test" and found that there was a "big leak", so I called the company that
installed the A/C.  He went over it with his gauges and instruments and said
there was no leak.  I tried to explain that since the house was losing or
gaining air there had to be leak, but I was never able to make him
understand that there had to be a leak.  After waiting a a couple of weeks
deciding what to do, I did the test a second time and there was no leak.
The Kleenex hung straight down.  I guessed that since the ductwork was put
together with staples and duct tape that a loose area of duct tape had
"resealed" itself.
(Note:  Using a kleenex, I made sure there was no inside or outside air
movement that might have blown the Kleenex taped in the open window.)

Since I was only using simple physics for the tests, I'm wondering if the
A/C guy was right and I was wrong since he knew a lot more than I did about
ducted A/C systems?
Thanks,
Gerry


From: Wilton Strickland
Several days ago, somebody was talking about doing something stupid.  "Don't
remember who it was, but be reassured whatever it was probably wasn't so
stupid.  Now, let me tell you about stupid; THIS was stupid:

WHERE  IS  ALL  THE  WATER  COMING  FROM?
By
Wilton Strickland

During the summer of 2000, while I was working as a private, independent
home inspector and building consultant, I received a call from a woman who
was extremely concerned that her new house had excessive moisture on the
underside and did not have an adequate vapor barrier.  (A vapor barrier is
usually formed in the under-floor crawlspace by laying a plastic
sheet/membrane on the ground to keep water vapor from rising out of the
ground and through the floor into the house.)  She said she had a wet wall
and lots of water on the floor in a bathroom; she called a plumber who had
been unable to find any leak and had told her that her problem was “no vapor
barrier under the house.”  She had also called a roofer, who could find no
problem with the roof.  Because the house was only a few months old, she
wanted a licensed, professional inspector to document the moisture problem
under the house in order to persuade the builder to correct it.

She had described the house as being a one-story structure of about 1800
square feet.  When I arrived at the house, though, I immediately saw t

[MBZ] seatbelt retractors

2009-03-14 Thread Barry Stark

Just curious if there is anyone out there that has ever successfully opened
up and clean/re-lubed their retractors. Manual says they are not repairable
but I'm guessing that has a lot to do with liability issues. Both of my cars
are '81s and the belt return into the retractor is getting fairly sluggish.

Barry



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Re: [MBZ] key-less alternator?

"Archer"  writes:

> Was there an instruction sheet in the box?  With a wavy washer and no
> key, it would seem like they might specify a tightening torque since
> previous alternators had keys.

Yeah -- it said "tighten to manufacturer specifications".

I just interpreted that as "really tight".  I put some blue threadlock
on for good measure.

So far so good.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid


Hi Wilton,
Here's another A/C question you or someone else might be able answer.
Because the electric bill seems high, I suspected that there might be a leak 
in the fiberglas ductwork  Since this is a "closed" A/C system with no fresh 
air coming in except when the doors or windows are open, I concluded that if 
I opened a window a few inches and taped a kleenex in the opening that I 
could tell if a leak in the return ductwork was sucking in air (gaining air) 
which would make the kleenex billow out; or if a leak in the ductwork to the 
cold air registers was blowing cold air out in the attic which would make 
the kleenex billow in (losing air).
It turned out that the kleenex billowed out which meant that there was a 
leak in the return ductwork in the attic and the house was gaining air from 
the attic.  Where was this excess air going?  I would guess it was going out 
through the usual leaks around the doors and windows or even up through the 
range hood vent or other vents.


When we first built the house about 13 years ago, I did the same "kleenex 
test" and found that there was a "big leak", so I called the company that 
installed the A/C.  He went over it with his gauges and instruments and said 
there was no leak.  I tried to explain that since the house was losing or 
gaining air there had to be leak, but I was never able to make him 
understand that there had to be a leak.  After waiting a a couple of weeks 
deciding what to do, I did the test a second time and there was no leak. 
The Kleenex hung straight down.  I guessed that since the ductwork was put 
together with staples and duct tape that a loose area of duct tape had 
"resealed" itself.
(Note:  Using a kleenex, I made sure there was no inside or outside air 
movement that might have blown the Kleenex taped in the open window.)


Since I was only using simple physics for the tests, I'm wondering if the 
A/C guy was right and I was wrong since he knew a lot more than I did about 
ducted A/C systems?

Thanks,
Gerry


From: Wilton Strickland
Several days ago, somebody was talking about doing something stupid.  "Don't
remember who it was, but be reassured whatever it was probably wasn't so
stupid.  Now, let me tell you about stupid; THIS was stupid:

WHERE  IS  ALL  THE  WATER  COMING  FROM?
By
Wilton Strickland

During the summer of 2000, while I was working as a private, independent
home inspector and building consultant, I received a call from a woman who
was extremely concerned that her new house had excessive moisture on the
underside and did not have an adequate vapor barrier.  (A vapor barrier is
usually formed in the under-floor crawlspace by laying a plastic
sheet/membrane on the ground to keep water vapor from rising out of the
ground and through the floor into the house.)  She said she had a wet wall
and lots of water on the floor in a bathroom; she called a plumber who had
been unable to find any leak and had told her that her problem was “no vapor
barrier under the house.”  She had also called a roofer, who could find no
problem with the roof.  Because the house was only a few months old, she
wanted a licensed, professional inspector to document the moisture problem
under the house in order to persuade the builder to correct it.

She had described the house as being a one-story structure of about 1800
square feet.  When I arrived at the house, though, I immediately saw that it
was a “double-wide” manufactured home on a permanent, full masonry
foundation.  From what she had described on the phone, I was expecting to
find a typical “poor drainage” problem around the outside causing water to
accumulate under the house.  Ground around the outside of the house,
however, was well-drained, and quick observations of the underside via the
crawlspace access door and foundation vents revealed a reasonably dry
crawlspace and an intact, factory-installed vapor barrier attached to the
underside of the structure.  While I was walking around the outside, looking
through foundation vents, etc., the lady continued to tell me how wet it was
inside the house, and asking, ”Where is all the water coming from?”

Shortly, I was ready to see the interior and the water that she was
concerned about.  I followed her into the house and into a bathroom, where
the door was standing open against an adjacent wall.  As she pulled the door
away from the wall, I noticed that a large section of wallboard/sheetrock on
the wall had been removed, and the backside of the door, the remaining areas
of the wall and the cabinet in front of the door were dripping wet.  A
couple of wet towels were on the floor beneath the door.  There was a strong
blast of very cold air coming from the heating/cooling register in the floor
behind the door.  She told me that when they removed the wet wallboard, they
found a lot of water accumulated inside the wall.  I knew immediately that
the water was condensation caused by the blast of cold a

Re: [MBZ] key-less alternator?


Gary Hurst  writes:

i'd think some kind of compression fit would work.  this style is
getting more and more popular


It came with a pretty substantial wavy spring washer.  I'm going to give
it a try just tightening it down good and tight.
Allan
1983 300D
___
Was there an instruction sheet in the box?  With a wavy washer and no key, 
it would seem like they might specify a tightening torque since previous 
alternators had keys.  Might pay to use solvent and get the shaft and pulley 
very clean and free of oil or even coat the shaft and pulley with something 
that will make them rust together to some extent since they do anyway at 
times.  A coating of salt water on a squeaky clean shaft and pulley might 
produce enough rust to lock the two parts together.

Good luck,
Gerry 
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Re: [MBZ] OT Burning Wood Was OT: Hot water?


Wilton Strickland wrote:

Farmers for making dust.


Farmers already lost some big court cases on that one.
Government's gone totally mad.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT Burning Wood Was OT: Hot water?

Farmers for making dust.

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Rick Knoble" 
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Burning Wood Was OT: Hot water?


> > Youtube search for redneck hot tub and see what kind of wood fired water
> > heaters you find.
>
> Speaking of wood fired anything...
>
> http://burningissues.org/car-www/index.html
>
> What will people pick on next?
>
> Rick Knoble
> '85 300 CD
> '87 190 DT
>
>
>
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] The 140 is back on the road

Well its a new tensioner, I replaced it a couple months ago because it 
was rattling.  The new one still rattled.  And not it keeps rattling, 
when cold.  When it warms up, it seems to quiet down.  I think I need to 
replace the shock, I didnt replace it.  I think the bushing where it 
hooks to the tensioner is worn out maybe.  Guess that could cause the 
rattle.


OK Don wrote:

I love it when a repair turns out to be simple! That broken tensioner could
have been a nightmare, depending on what broke where!

On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 4:15 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


Spent all day with that car.  First I fixed the belt deal. Turns out the
bolt for the tensioner pulley broke completely off. WOW. OK, so I got that
all back together.  Next I decided to change the oil.  Done. Decided to swap
out the parking brake release handle that broke off some time ago.  Finally,
swapped out the amp in the trunk for the radio. Have not had a working radio
in that car for probably a year.  Wife will be surprised when she gets home.
--







No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.13/2001 - Release Date: 03/14/09 06:54:00




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] The 140 is back on the road

2009-03-14 Thread OK Don

I love it when a repair turns out to be simple! That broken tensioner could
have been a nightmare, depending on what broke where!

On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 4:15 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

> Spent all day with that car.  First I fixed the belt deal. Turns out the
> bolt for the tensioner pulley broke completely off. WOW. OK, so I got that
> all back together.  Next I decided to change the oil.  Done. Decided to swap
> out the parking brake release handle that broke off some time ago.  Finally,
> swapped out the amp in the trunk for the radio. Have not had a working radio
> in that car for probably a year.  Wife will be surprised when she gets home.
> --
>

-- 
OK Don
W124 Diesels
Ubuntu 8.10
KD5NRO
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What sort of solar coverage do you have? The 55 gallon drum would be
a good passive solar heater painted black and able to access full sun
all day. As you say, you want a shower at the end of the day, not
first thing in the morning. A series of drums would allow for good
caloric gain during daylight and ample water more than tepid for a
large group.

Could you also just build a thermal exchanger out of the stove and run
your cold water through that, much as you outline? Plumb storage
tanks to the exchange and heat a larger amount of water this way and
you can increase storage at a later date.

clay

On Mar 14, 2009, at 8:21 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Some of you might remember that I've got a camp in Maine about 3/4
mile in from the road. We've got a good source of water (a pond) but
no electricity (and don't want it either).
One thing about camp has always been my desire to take a nice hot
shower at the end of a long day. The pond is spring fed and as such
is fridgid almost the whole summer except for maybe 1 week in early
September...

I'd bought a camping shower that heats water with a propane burner
and it works reasonably well. The problems with it are 2 fold, #1 it
eats 4 D cell batterys for every 6 showers. Thats not the end of the
world except #2 it doesn't deliver a particularly satisfying shower
since you're limited on your water (you have to haul water from the
pond to the shower area) and you can't turn the water off if the
burner is on because the contraption would explode. Finally #3 it
eats a fair amount of propane.
We've worked around all these issues and I'll be the first to say
having a shower, however poor, is better than no shower at all.
Still its time to build a proper shower house (rather than showering
outside which is less fun if its cold out) and a proper shower.

My plan is to take a 55 gallon drum and an old box stove (both of
which we already have) and run a pipe from the bottom of the drum
(bottom ish anyway) through the stove and back into the drum at a
point higher up. We can then build a fire in the stove (using
basically free fuel as we have tons of trash trees around, spruce
and poplar (quaking aspen) that are of no use for sale) which will
heat the water in the pipe which will thermosyphon back into the
barrel.
From the barrel the water will pump into the showerhouse using a
12v pump powered either by the 12v port on my little generator or
eventually by a solar system (most of the pumps seem to be 65w
continuous, ~80w start, easy to power).

I've seen systems similar to this online to heat hot tubs with 2-3x
the water capacity saying they can heat their water in 1-2 hours so
I feel confident this will work acceptably for our purposes.

Comments? I'm trying to find factors I've overlooked...

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] OT Burning Wood Was OT: Hot water?

2009-03-14 Thread Rick Knoble

Youtube search for redneck hot tub and see what kind of wood fired water 
heaters you find.


Speaking of wood fired anything...

http://burningissues.org/car-www/index.html

What will people pick on next?

Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT



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[MBZ] The 140 is back on the road

Spent all day with that car.  First I fixed the belt deal. Turns out the 
bolt for the tensioner pulley broke completely off. WOW. OK, so I got 
that all back together.  Next I decided to change the oil.  Done. 
Decided to swap out the parking brake release handle that broke off some 
time ago.  Finally, swapped out the amp in the trunk for the radio. 
Have not had a working radio in that car for probably a year.  Wife will 
be surprised when she gets home.

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] barrel scraping again

2009-03-14 Thread RELNGSON

> ...what do you expect from a cheap class driver..
> 
Christ Almighty, are you back to this again? Your lack of imagination is 
cosmic.

RLE
> 
> 




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Re: [MBZ] key-less alternator?

So far, about 30 miles on the new alternator, and it seems to be fine
without the woodruff key.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

Allan Streib  writes:

> Gary Hurst  writes:
>
>> i'd think some kind of compression fit would work.  this style is
>> getting more and more popular
>
> It came with a pretty substantial wavy spring washer.  I'm going to give
> it a try just tightening it down good and tight.
>
> Allan

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?


Curt Raymond wrote:


Comments? I'm trying to find factors I've overlooked...


Youtube search for redneck hot tub and see what kind of wood fired water heaters 
you find. Either that or paint some drums black and put them in a little 
greenhouse on the south side of the cabin, maybe with some reflectorized mylar 
behind and below them.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] what fannie mae thinks my house is worth now

2009-03-14 Thread OK Don

Same here.

On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 9:27 AM, Craig McCluskey  wrote:

> On Wed, 11 Mar 2009 10:47:26 -0400 Gary Hurst 
> wrote:
>
> > this is exactly my house, but 2 houses away from mine.  i paid 150 for
> > mine.  asking price is now 109.  my thought is that if you showed up
> > with 85k, they'd give it to you.
> >
> > depression
> >
> > http://reosearch.fanniemae.com/reosearch/propertyDetailAction.do?i=3
>
> All I get is,
>
>   Fannie Mae-Owned Property Search is temporarily not available.
>   Please try again later.
>
> I did try again later.
>
>
> Craig
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid

2009-03-14 Thread Rich Thomas

Well that was me that was stupid working on the brakes and vac on the 
TD, but I understand about condensation and heat and that sort of thing.


--R

Wilton Strickland wrote:

Several days ago, somebody was talking about doing something stupid.  "Don't
remember who it was, but be reassured whatever it was probably wasn't so
stupid.  Now, let me tell you about stupid; THIS was stupid:

WHERE  IS  ALL  THE  WATER  COMING  FROM?
By
Wilton Strickland


  


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Re: [MBZ] OT - Stupid

2009-03-14 Thread Craig McCluskey

On Sat, 14 Mar 2009 13:25:48 -0500 "Wilton Strickland" 
wrote:

> Several days ago, somebody was talking about doing something stupid. 
> "Don't remember who it was, but be reassured whatever it was probably
> wasn't so stupid.  Now, let me tell you about stupid; THIS was stupid:

Oh, my. What a tale.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?

2009-03-14 Thread Rich Thomas

There are some hot tub wood heaters that have the firebox submerged in
the tub and the wood is fed in top -- they look basically like a steel
box with a hole on top to feed wood and one for a smoke pipe. You could
use a horse trough or some such, or your barrel. Or a hot tub you could
soak in too! If you did something like that you would still need a
little pump (12V and car battery with solar charger?) to get water up to
the shower head, but it would be a lot easier to make.

--R

Curt Raymond wrote:

Some of you might remember that I've got a camp in Maine about 3/4 mile in from
the road. We've got a good source of water (a pond) but no electricity (and
don't want it either).
One thing about camp has always been my desire to take a nice hot shower at the
end of a long day. The pond is spring fed and as such is fridgid almost the
whole summer except for maybe 1 week in early September...

I'd bought a camping shower that heats water with a propane burner and it works
reasonably well. The problems with it are 2 fold, #1 it eats 4 D cell batterys
for every 6 showers. Thats not the end of the world except #2 it doesn't
deliver a particularly satisfying shower since you're limited on your water
(you have to haul water from the pond to the shower area) and you can't turn
the water off if the burner is on because the contraption would explode.
Finally #3 it eats a fair amount of propane.
We've worked around all these issues and I'll be the first to say having a
shower, however poor, is better than no shower at all. Still its time to build
a proper shower house (rather than showering outside which is less fun if its
cold out) and a proper shower.

My plan is to take a 55 gallon drum and an old box stove (both of which we
already have) and run a pipe from the bottom of the drum (bottom ish anyway)
through the stove and back into the drum at a point higher up. We can then
build a fire in the stove (using basically free fuel as we have tons of trash
trees around, spruce and poplar (quaking aspen) that are of no use for sale)
which will heat the water in the pipe which will thermosyphon back into the
barrel.
>From the barrel the water will pump into the showerhouse using a 12v pump
powered either by the 12v port on my little generator or eventually by a solar
system (most of the pumps seem to be 65w continuous, ~80w start, easy to power).

I've seen systems similar to this online to heat hot tubs with 2-3x the water
capacity saying they can heat their water in 1-2 hours so I feel confident this
will work acceptably for our purposes.

Comments? I'm trying to find factors I've overlooked...

-Curt

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[MBZ] OT - Stupid

Several days ago, somebody was talking about doing something stupid.  "Don't
remember who it was, but be reassured whatever it was probably wasn't so
stupid.  Now, let me tell you about stupid; THIS was stupid:

WHERE  IS  ALL  THE  WATER  COMING  FROM?
By
Wilton Strickland

During the summer of 2000, while I was working as a private, independent
home inspector and building consultant, I received a call from a woman who
was extremely concerned that her new house had excessive moisture on the
underside and did not have an adequate vapor barrier.  (A vapor barrier is
usually formed in the under-floor crawlspace by laying a plastic
sheet/membrane on the ground to keep water vapor from rising out of the
ground and through the floor into the house.)  She said she had a wet wall
and lots of water on the floor in a bathroom; she called a plumber who had
been unable to find any leak and had told her that her problem was “no vapor
barrier under the house.”  She had also called a roofer, who could find no
problem with the roof.  Because the house was only a few months old, she
wanted a licensed, professional inspector to document the moisture problem
under the house in order to persuade the builder to correct it.

She had described the house as being a one-story structure of about 1800
square feet.  When I arrived at the house, though, I immediately saw that it
was a “double-wide” manufactured home on a permanent, full masonry
foundation.  From what she had described on the phone, I was expecting to
find a typical “poor drainage” problem around the outside causing water to
accumulate under the house.  Ground around the outside of the house,
however, was well-drained, and quick observations of the underside via the
crawlspace access door and foundation vents revealed a reasonably dry
crawlspace and an intact, factory-installed vapor barrier attached to the
underside of the structure.  While I was walking around the outside, looking
through foundation vents, etc., the lady continued to tell me how wet it was
inside the house, and asking, ”Where is all the water coming from?”

Shortly, I was ready to see the interior and the water that she was
concerned about.  I followed her into the house and into a bathroom, where
the door was standing open against an adjacent wall.  As she pulled the door
away from the wall, I noticed that a large section of wallboard/sheetrock on
the wall had been removed, and the backside of the door, the remaining areas
of the wall and the cabinet in front of the door were dripping wet.  A
couple of wet towels were on the floor beneath the door.  There was a strong
blast of very cold air coming from the heating/cooling register in the floor
behind the door.  She told me that when they removed the wet wallboard, they
found a lot of water accumulated inside the wall.  I knew immediately that
the water was condensation caused by the blast of cold air flowing in the
confined area between the door, the wall and the cabinet.  I laid a
thermometer on top of the cabinet with the probe tip hanging off the edge so
that the air could flow across it.  After a very few minutes, while I began
to explain condensation to the lady, I checked the thermometer and found the
temperature of the air at the top of the cabinet to be 56F!  The wall, the
door and the front of the cabinet were acting as large condensing plates -
water was dripping profusely off the bottom edges of them.

I tried to explain condensation to the lady, but she could not, or would
not, understand me.  First, I tried to get her to understand that the air
all around us contains lots of water as a vapor that we usually don’t see.
Warm air can hold more water than the same air when it is cooler.  When air
cools below the dew point, the temperature at which air is saturated or
holds all the water that it can at that temperature, some of the water vapor
must condense and can be seen as fog, clouds, rain, snow, sleet or hail,
depending on temperature of air that the droplets of water may fall through.
Dew on grass, condensation on the outside of a cold drink glass and the
water dripping from the surfaces in her bathroom are caused by the air in
contact with the cold surfaces being cooled below the dew point.  The
constant blast of very cold air behind the door makes the surfaces cold
enough to cause the condensation to form on them - just like a cold drink
glass and windows inside a car on a cold day.  The lady’s eyes had a
constant “glaze” of  stupidity with no understanding of my explanation of
simple condensation as she continued to ask, “But where is all the water
coming from?”

I tried, again, to tell her that the air all around us just naturally
contains lots of water.  The amount of water in the air is constantly
changing as temperature changes, as weather changes.  The air around us is
saturated, or full of water, when it rains.  After a rain, some of the water
soaks into the ground, much of it evaporates back into the air around us and
rises

Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?

2009-03-14 Thread Jim Cathey


How much height difference do I really need


Only a few feet will give you a passable shower.


does the top pipe have to come out above the level of the water?
I was thinking that both pipes would be submerged all the time...


They do, else no thermosiphon, only a steam geyser that does
nothing to heat the water in the tank.


I had discounted the gravity idea but now I'm reconsidering...


It's always there, you should try to use it for _something_!

I'm thinking I'll still want my pump but now its to get water up to 
the drums...


Done that way you can still use a ladder to fill it, even
if the pump/electricity fails, and you can still have your
shower.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?

How much height difference do I really need, does the top pipe have to come out 
above the level of the water? I was thinking that both pipes would be submerged 
all the time...
I had discounted the gravity idea but now I'm reconsidering...

So I could put the drum above the level of the shower outside the shower house 
(I was thinking inside but now I'm thinking about safety)  on a platform, now 
I'm also starting to think about 2 drums, one hot and one cold.
So I run my tube down to the bottom of the stove, and make some sort of heat 
exchanger around the sides of the firebox maybe? Then out the top of the stove 
and back up to the drum? 
I'm thinking I'll still want my pump but now its to get water up to the drums...

And we're starting to get into a serious project for a shower thats going to 
get used maybe 25 times a year...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 09:44:40 -0600
From: Craig McCluskey 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <20090314094440.0ef00674.diese...@cnsp.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

You need to have the drum above the stove to activate the thermosyphon,
why not use gravity feed for the shower?

We had a recirculating hot water system in one house that had the hot
water heater in the basement. The supply line from the top of the water
heater to the kitchen faucet was insulated. Another, uninsulated (metal)
line went from the kitchen faucet to a tee inserted for the drain valve at
the bottom of the water heater. Worked very well.

You can use copper tubing inside the stove since it will always be filled
with water.


Craig


  
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?

Drum will be open topped (standing up) to make it easy to get the water in from 
buckets so steam production in the barrel wouldn't do much more than blow the 
lid off, I guess thats a pop off valve of sorts.

The two pipes will only be maybe 1' apart at the barrel, maybe 4" up from the 
bottom

The coil around the stove is probably a more efficient idea. I've also thought 
about a series of copper tubes rather than just a simple loop. In either case 
I'll looking to start with something simple and keep costs down... My plan as 
it stands is about $50-$75 including the pump, of course if it doesn't work

-Curt

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 11:43:30 -0500
From: "Wilton Strickland" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID: <003701c9a4c4$0246a7e0$0301a...@computer>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="iso-8859-1"

Safety, pop-off valve at top of the drum?  How 'bout a water pipe heating
"coil" around the heater, then insulate around outside of all that?

Wilton


  
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?

Actually I had thought through what to do about the water getting too hot. My 
plan was to have another drum (although probably smaller) next to the first and 
plumb them together with some sort of switchable manifold that the pump will 
draw through, basically put my shower temp control downstream of the pump but 
the shutoff upstream. Open the cold water valve more and the temp at the shower 
cools yes?

Would building the fire under the drum be more efficient? I suppose it would 
but what will it do to my ability to build a fire there? I'm thinking I'll want 
a pretty big firebox for the amount of water I'll be heating, maybe 1/3 of 
another barrel under the first barrel? I'd need to rig some sort of a base to 
hold the whole thing up and some sort of chimney structure and then the heat 
directly applied to the base of the water barrel (not to mention the byproducts 
of combustion) will do nothing good for extending that barrel's life... In my 
plan the loop of (probably black iron) pipe in the firebox of the woodstove 
(with its large firebox and chimney system already figured out) would be 
sacrificial...

No place to put the heating system above the shower without significant removal 
of trees and added potential for erosion and whatnot although I'd thought about 
that...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 07:42:17 -0800
From: Jim Cathey 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

> My plan is to take a 55 gallon drum and an old box stove (both of 
> which we already have) and run a pipe from the bottom of the drum 
> (bottom ish anyway) through the stove and back into the drum at a 
> point higher up. We can then build a fire in the stove (using 
> basically free fuel as we have tons of trash trees around, spruce and 
> poplar (quaking aspen) that are of no use for sale) which will heat 
> the water in the pipe which will thermosyphon back into the barrel.

Have you a way to stop the heating once the barrel is hot enough?
Once you shower down to expose the upper pipe the thermosiphon
will cease, which shouldn't surprise anybody.

You could just build a fire under the drum.  Even simpler.
Or sit the drum on top of the stove.

Put all this up high and use a gravity feed for the shower.
No power or equipment required then.

-- Jim


  
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?

geez, yep, this sounds like something that would go on in Maine. Where
exactly is this camp of yours?

Curt Raymond wrote:

Some of you might remember that I've got a camp in Maine about 3/4 mile in from
the road. We've got a good source of water (a pond) but no electricity (and
don't want it either).
One thing about camp has always been my desire to take a nice hot shower at the
end of a long day. The pond is spring fed and as such is fridgid almost the
whole summer except for maybe 1 week in early September...

I'd bought a camping shower that heats water with a propane burner and it works
reasonably well. The problems with it are 2 fold, #1 it eats 4 D cell batterys
for every 6 showers. Thats not the end of the world except #2 it doesn't
deliver a particularly satisfying shower since you're limited on your water
(you have to haul water from the pond to the shower area) and you can't turn
the water off if the burner is on because the contraption would explode.
Finally #3 it eats a fair amount of propane.
We've worked around all these issues and I'll be the first to say having a
shower, however poor, is better than no shower at all. Still its time to build
a proper shower house (rather than showering outside which is less fun if its
cold out) and a proper shower.

From the barrel the water will pump into the showerhouse using a 12v pump
powered either by the 12v port on my little generator or eventually by a solar
system (most of the pumps seem to be 65w continuous, ~80w start, easy to power).

I've seen systems similar to this online to heat hot tubs with 2-3x the water
capacity saying they can heat their water in 1-2 hours so I feel confident this
will work acceptably for our purposes.

Comments? I'm trying to find factors I've overlooked...

-Curt

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.13/2001 - Release Date: 03/14/09 06:54:00

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] KC - Don't ask because I won't post it.........who cares......yawn


what do you expect from a cheap class driver

Gary Hurst wrote:

no one who has a real secret gets up and announces that he has a secret but
he isn't telling.

it's a desperate cry for attention as everyone goes "please, please, roger,
tell us, tell us."  people from the west coast are like this.



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Since the Buying Freeze Is Off


Only problem is that its a 201 and Dons car is a 124

Craig McCluskey wrote:

On Fri, 13 Mar 2009 19:34:31 -0500 Wonko the Sane 
wrote:


Wow. That has all of the body panels (even correct color) to turn my
300E into a respectable vehicle.


For $500 and a 604 mile trip, it's yours!


Craig



On Wed, Mar 11, 2009 at 9:19 PM, Rick Knoble 
wrote:


I will start posting this crap again

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/1070171509.html

Not Mine, No Affiliation, ect.

Rick Knoble
'87 190DT
'85 300CD

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--- 
Craig McCluskey


Present: 1982 240D/3.0 (Euro 1984 617.912 engine, 4-speed) 250 kmi
 1994 E420 117 kmi
   Past: 1964 190Dc
 1972 220D/8
 1972 220/8
 1987 190E/2.3

 /"\   
 \ /  ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN	  "Friends don't send friends

  X   AGAINST HTML MAIL   HTML email."
 / \  AND POSTINGS 
   http://www.fred.net/tds/longrange.html

  http://pruffle.mit.edu/~ccarter/I_do_not_use_microsoft.html

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?

2009-03-14 Thread Craig McCluskey

On Sat, 14 Mar 2009 08:21:08 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
 wrote:

> My plan is to take a 55 gallon drum and an old box stove (both of which
> we already have) and run a pipe from the bottom of the drum (bottom ish
> anyway) through the stove and back into the drum at a point higher up.
> We can then build a fire in the stove (using basically free fuel as we
> have tons of trash trees around, spruce and poplar (quaking aspen) that
> are of no use for sale) which will heat the water in the pipe which will
> thermosyphon back into the barrel.
> 
> From the barrel the water will pump into the showerhouse using a 12v
> pump powered either by the 12v port on my little generator or eventually
> by a solar system (most of the pumps seem to be 65w continuous, ~80w
> start, easy to power).
> 
> I've seen systems similar to this online to heat hot tubs with 2-3x the
> water capacity saying they can heat their water in 1-2 hours so I feel
> confident this will work acceptably for our purposes.
> 
> Comments? I'm trying to find factors I've overlooked...

You need to have the drum above the stove to activate the thermosyphon,
why not use gravity feed for the shower?

We had a recirculating hot water system in one house that had the hot
water heater in the basement. The supply line from the top of the water
heater to the kitchen faucet was insulated. Another, uninsulated (metal)
line went from the kitchen faucet to a tee inserted for the drain valve at
the bottom of the water heater. Worked very well.

You can use copper tubing inside the stove since it will always be filled
with water.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] O.T The '87 Acura I Sold...It's Baaaack

yep, thats what I want, with some land though.  I dont know why I never 
see old houses like that out in the country.  At least not around here 
anyway.  All the ones like that here are in town on small city lots.


Wilton Strickland wrote:

'One I'm living in ain't bad, either, but I wouldn't call it a mansion -
3500 SF Georgian colonial revival built in 1905 (much smaller version of the
Governor's Mansion at Williamsburg, VA); wood clapboard exterior siding,
plaster interior walls, lotsa nice moldings, hardwood floors, 11 ft.
ceilings on first floor, 10 ft. ceilings on 2nd floor; slate roof, widow's
walk on roof.  Partial basement; enough room (1400 SF) in walkup attic for
another house.  'Bought this in late '87 just as I was finishing restoration
of the two National Register houses.  'Immediately went to work on this one.
'Been living here 21 years.  'Work continues.

Wilton


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] wife kills the 140 SD

I know. You better hang on to that thing for a while though, right now 
the prices have crashed.


Loren Faeth wrote:

I have an SDL you can buy.  You know the price


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?

Safety, pop-off valve at top of the drum?  How 'bout a water pipe heating
"coil" around the heater, then insulate around outside of all that?

Wilton

- Original Message -
From: "Curt Raymond" 
To: "Diesel List" 
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 10:21 AM
Subject: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?


> Some of you might remember that I've got a camp in Maine about 3/4 mile in
from the road. We've got a good source of water (a pond) but no electricity
(and don't want it either).
> One thing about camp has always been my desire to take a nice hot shower
at the end of a long day. The pond is spring fed and as such is fridgid
almost the whole summer except for maybe 1 week in early September...
>
> I'd bought a camping shower that heats water with a propane burner and it
works reasonably well. The problems with it are 2 fold, #1 it eats 4 D cell
batterys for every 6 showers. Thats not the end of the world except #2 it
doesn't deliver a particularly satisfying shower since you're limited on
your water (you have to haul water from the pond to the shower area) and you
can't turn the water off if the burner is on because the contraption would
explode. Finally #3 it eats a fair amount of propane.
> We've worked around all these issues and I'll be the first to say having a
shower, however poor, is better than no shower at all. Still its time to
build a proper shower house (rather than showering outside which is less fun
if its cold out) and a proper shower.
>
> My plan is to take a 55 gallon drum and an old box stove (both of which we
already have) and run a pipe from the bottom of the drum (bottom ish anyway)
through the stove and back into the drum at a point higher up. We can then
build a fire in the stove (using basically free fuel as we have tons of
trash trees around, spruce and poplar (quaking aspen) that are of no use for
sale) which will heat the water in the pipe which will thermosyphon back
into the barrel.
> >From the barrel the water will pump into the showerhouse using a 12v pump
powered either by the 12v port on my little generator or eventually by a
solar system (most of the pumps seem to be 65w continuous, ~80w start, easy
to power).
>
> I've seen systems similar to this online to heat hot tubs with 2-3x the
water capacity saying they can heat their water in 1-2 hours so I feel
confident this will work acceptably for our purposes.
>
> Comments? I'm trying to find factors I've overlooked...
>
> -Curt
>
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Hot water?

2009-03-14 Thread Jim Cathey

My plan is to take a 55 gallon drum and an old box stove (both of 
which we already have) and run a pipe from the bottom of the drum 
(bottom ish anyway) through the stove and back into the drum at a 
point higher up. We can then build a fire in the stove (using 
basically free fuel as we have tons of trash trees around, spruce and 
poplar (quaking aspen) that are of no use for sale) which will heat 
the water in the pipe which will thermosyphon back into the barrel.


Have you a way to stop the heating once the barrel is hot enough?
Once you shower down to expose the upper pipe the thermosiphon
will cease, which shouldn't surprise anybody.

You could just build a fire under the drum.  Even simpler.
Or sit the drum on top of the stove.

Put all this up high and use a gravity feed for the shower.
No power or equipment required then.

-- Jim



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[MBZ] OT: Hot water?

Some of you might remember that I've got a camp in Maine about 3/4 mile in from
the road. We've got a good source of water (a pond) but no electricity (and
don't want it either).
One thing about camp has always been my desire to take a nice hot shower at the
end of a long day. The pond is spring fed and as such is fridgid almost the
whole summer except for maybe 1 week in early September...

I'd bought a camping shower that heats water with a propane burner and it works
reasonably well. The problems with it are 2 fold, #1 it eats 4 D cell batterys
for every 6 showers. Thats not the end of the world except #2 it doesn't
deliver a particularly satisfying shower since you're limited on your water
(you have to haul water from the pond to the shower area) and you can't turn
the water off if the burner is on because the contraption would explode.
Finally #3 it eats a fair amount of propane.
We've worked around all these issues and I'll be the first to say having a
shower, however poor, is better than no shower at all. Still its time to build
a proper shower house (rather than showering outside which is less fun if its
cold out) and a proper shower.

My plan is to take a 55 gallon drum and an old box stove (both of which we
already have) and run a pipe from the bottom of the drum (bottom ish anyway)
through the stove and back into the drum at a point higher up. We can then
build a fire in the stove (using basically free fuel as we have tons of trash
trees around, spruce and poplar (quaking aspen) that are of no use for sale)
which will heat the water in the pipe which will thermosyphon back into the
barrel.
>From the barrel the water will pump into the showerhouse using a 12v pump
>powered either by the 12v port on my little generator or eventually by a solar
>system (most of the pumps seem to be 65w continuous, ~80w start, easy to
>power).

I've seen systems similar to this online to heat hot tubs with 2-3x the water
capacity saying they can heat their water in 1-2 hours so I feel confident this
will work acceptably for our purposes.

Comments? I'm trying to find factors I've overlooked...

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] O.T The '87 Acura I Sold...It's Baaaack


no

Wonko the Sane wrote:

Isn't the Gun Museum up for sale? That'd make a heck of a house.

On Fri, Mar 13, 2009 at 7:04 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


I would sure like to own something like that some day.



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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.13/1999 - Release Date: 03/13/09 05:59:00




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] I wonder If We Will Wave The White Flag

2009-03-14 Thread Rick Knoble


Sorry, that was supposed to go to banned.

Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT


--
From: "Rick Knoble" 
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 10:09 AM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: [MBZ] I wonder If We Will Wave The White Flag


http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/29691183/

And this from MSNBC with a very liberal news bias.

Rick
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[MBZ] I wonder If We Will Wave The White Flag

2009-03-14 Thread Rick Knoble

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/29691183/

And this from MSNBC with a very liberal news bias.

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Computer Question

2009-03-14 Thread dave walton

I forgot to mention - the cpu heatsink fins on the Dell 5100 can become
clogged with dust. This causes the cpu to overheat and will eventually kill
it. If you look thru the fins, you might be able to see the dust clogging
them on the inside of the unit. Just to be safe, periodically blow them with
compressed air. This is not ideal because it will only redistribute the dust
inside the case, but is much easier than taking the case apart to get at
them. I suppose you could stick a vacuum hose at the air intake and suck it
out instead. Hmmm, I'll have to try that next time...

-Dave Walton


On Fri, Mar 13, 2009 at 10:19 AM, Richard Hattaway  wrote:

>
> Since I am out of lurk mode briefly, I have a question for the computer
> literate among us.
>
> OH, and I hate people who ask computer questions on MB lists, so just throw
> the spear, it will be graciously accepted...
>
> I have a Dell Inspiron 5100 laptop, running XP pro with half a gig of ram
> and a 40 gig hard drive.  It works flawlessly most of the time.
>
> I use it primarily for AutoCAD.  When it first boots, ACAD is *painfully*
> slow.  For the experienced cad user, it is devistating.  I have already made
> three or four moves before the computer wakes up to the fact that I'm there.
>  It takes forever to catch up.
>
> Looking at the task manager processes list, there is repeated many times
> the program svchost.exe.  It's used by the LOCAL SERVICE, SYSTEM, NETWORK
> SERVICE, etc over and over.  At this moment, there are 10 instances of this
> program listed in the Processes list.  The users are all of the three above
> listed ones.
>
> When the machine is pacing very slowly, I will open the task manager and
> find that one of the svchost.exe users is occupying 99% of the CPU.  I
> simply delete it, the computer goes back to being a screaming demon cad
> machine and all is well for the day.  I notice no change in anything, no
> loss of any capabilities, only marked speed increase.  The issue appears
> only on bootup.
>
> Anybody got a clue how I can elimminate whatever is causing this anmomly??
>  It's no issue to cure, but would be nice to not have to do.
>
> Emails off list are fine, if you don't want to clobber the normal day to
> day banter.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Richard
>
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT: This is funny, grandma with a machine pistol

I wouldn't draw on her, she'd shoot me in the toodles...

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 17:18:55 +1030
From: Hendrik & Fay 
Subject: [MBZ] This is funny, grandma with a machine pistol
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <49bb5357.9000...@ozemail.com.au>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kV59_if9vTw&feature=related
No not my grandma

Hendrik




  
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Re: [MBZ] what fannie mae thinks my house is worth now

2009-03-14 Thread Craig McCluskey

On Wed, 11 Mar 2009 10:47:26 -0400 Gary Hurst 
wrote:

> this is exactly my house, but 2 houses away from mine.  i paid 150 for
> mine.  asking price is now 109.  my thought is that if you showed up
> with 85k, they'd give it to you.
> 
> depression
> 
> http://reosearch.fanniemae.com/reosearch/propertyDetailAction.do?i=3

All I get is,

   Fannie Mae-Owned Property Search is temporarily not available.
   Please try again later.

I did try again later.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear links (suspension)

2009-03-14 Thread Steve Bailey

The w124 manual is available in a .rar format from the following link:

http://thepiratebay.org/search/w124/0/99/0

I use utorrent to complete the download. If you need any help with doing
this feel free to ask off list.

Steve

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 9:15 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] 124 rear links (suspension)

I seem to have lost my 124 CDs!  Not sure how I did that!  I thought 
I had lost at least one of the 126 cds, but they are both where they 
belong, and the whole set of 124 cds is gone.  Would anyone be kind 
enough  to send me the .pdfs pertaining to the R&R of the rear 
suspension links?  If there is info about the rear alignment, I could 
use that too.  87 300D (124) Thanks!

Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] key-less alternator?