Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush - was: Heat wave

2012-07-03 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
But Philip, The output of the water pump is always directly to the engine
block... there will always be sufficient flow through the block.  The
thermostat determines how much water flows through the radiator vs the
bypass... water always flows through the engine block.

There is a good diagram of the V8s here:
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11883/PROGRAM/Engine/107/M117_45/20-005.pdf

Jaime


On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 10:31 PM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

 I don't argue that it's safe.  But it also isn't going to do a
 thorough job flushing.  The laws of hydrodynamics indicate that
 the path of least resistance will get the most flow.  And the
 path through the engine is going to have a higher resistance
 than the 6 inch bypass pipe.  Therefore most of the water will
 not go through the engine if the bypass isn't closed.

 Do whatever you want - but when I do a cooling system flush, I
 want it all cleaned out.  So I use a forced-open thermostat.

 -- Philip



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-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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[MBZ] Wind map

2012-07-03 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

this is pretty cool

http://hint.fm/wind/index.html

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

2012-07-03 Thread WILTON
Well, I have ballast temporarily secured to underside right now; works much 
better; need just a little bit (Goldilocks) more.  'Sure hate to hafta haul 
ballast around, but it'll work 'til I figure something better.
'Nother problem developing with the paint right now; after sitting in sun 
yesterday, little bitty indented freckles developed all over the 
horizontal surface.  'Looks like paint on rusted steel with the rust pits 
showing through the paint.  'Sanded it a BUNCH before and between every coat 
and never saw such pitting in the several coats that I put on it.  May need 
to take it back off and strip it to metal like I should have done 
originally.
Wonder if tool rental places have paint strippers - the soda or walnut shell 
type?  Gonna start looking immediately after I punch SEND.  'Course, I also 
have random orbital sander with enough grit to strip it, too;  shoulda put 
it to good use coupla months ago.

'Becoming quite a saga.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 6:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid


One of the trunk lid springs on the 450SLC was not working (one end was 
not

in it's slot), and it would almost, but not quite, hold the lid open.
Perhaps you coud disconnect one side, and see what happens?

The ither option is to find springs from the same type car that the
aluminum lid came from and replace yours.

On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 5:42 PM, David Bruckmann 
bruckma...@transcontinental.ca wrote:


I take it the springs can't just be moved to a different position on the
arms to change the tension (like the hood springs on 115/123?)

Wilton wrote:

Yep; old one is steel; new one is AL.  Gonna hafta add some weight to
underside of new one - a pity to haul the extra weight, but I can't 
have

it opening so violently with SWMBO or anybody else.

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--
OK Don
2001 ML320
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

2012-07-03 Thread Rick Knoble
On Jul 3, 2012, at 10:00 AM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 'Becoming quite a saga


Sometimes it's better to pay a pro. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid

2012-07-03 Thread WILTON

Yep.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2012 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: 126 trunk lid



On Jul 3, 2012, at 10:00 AM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:


'Becoming quite a saga



Sometimes it's better to pay a pro. 


Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush - was: Heat wave

2012-07-03 Thread Fmiser
  Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  I don't argue that it's safe.  But it also isn't going to do
  a thorough job flushing.  The laws of hydrodynamics indicate
  that the path of least resistance will get the most flow.
  And the path through the engine is going to have a higher
  resistance than the 6 inch bypass pipe.  Therefore most of
  the water will not go through the engine if the bypass isn't
  closed.

 Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

 But Philip, The output of the water pump is always directly to
 the engine block... there will always be sufficient flow
 through the block.  The thermostat determines how much water
 flows through the radiator vs the bypass... water always flows
 through the engine block.

Ah.  I was describing the situation using a garden hose to
backflush.

If you are using a running engine to flush, then exchange the
word radiator for engine.  The output from the block will
mostly go through the bypass and not through the radiator.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] dirty oil

2012-07-03 Thread David Bruckmann
Use Rotella T 15w40 diesel or another diesel-grade oil that will suspend the 
nasties and sludge and get it out of the engine. You could also put in a litre 
of Rislone to clear up the sludge.

Clay Monroe wrote:

I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as night 
and nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a vergasser, there 
should not be the diesel sooting up of oil.

 What is the group consensus on early change of oil?  Should I just go 
 ahead and toss in fresh oil and filter, or wait another few thousand?  Oil 
 pressure at idle is near nil, but at speed, I have great pressure.


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[MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

2012-07-03 Thread Rick Hawkins Java

Folks

OK  here's the update

I left athens, ga going to savannah, about 9 sunday nite

Temps were perfect, with the engine running at about 85 or 90 c  
running the cold r12 AC


Enroute, i started to have fuel delivery problems (i'm running  
straight WVO). I changed the small fuel filter which was clean. It  
looked like the fuel line may have been collapsing


So i messed around, traveling the georgia darkness at about 40 mph for  
20 or 30 miles till i got to a well lit place.  I dug deep in my car  
and found a new spin on fuel filter and filled that with ATF and  
primed well .presto, 70 mph the rest of the way to savannah


It was a troublesome trip, but the travel is the result, i guess!!

NOW, for heat wave content, i've been sweating for a day here at the  
beach since the central ac here at the house is not firing up. The  
starting capacitor looks blown up (swelled on the top) so i can only  
hope changing that will fire up the compressor again so i can be cool!!

stay cool!!


thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins


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Re: [MBZ] dirty oil

2012-07-03 Thread clay monroe
I like that solution better.  The filter is a PITA.   No need to put it on 
ramps, or get all the oil down my arm.



clay 


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







On Jul 2, 2012, at 7:13 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

 I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as night and 
 nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a vergasser, there should 
 not be the diesel sooting up of oil.
 
 May just be sludge coming out into solution.  I'd probably suck
 out hot oil and refill, leave filter alone.
 
 -- Jim
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Wind map

2012-07-03 Thread OK Don
Yes,it is! Thanks --

On Tue, Jul 3, 2012 at 9:56 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 this is pretty cool

 http://hint.fm/wind/index.html

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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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[MBZ] Fwd: FREE Shipping Offer

2012-07-03 Thread clay monroe
If you are in the middle of a project and can use this deal, here it is.  

I have used the product and it is really great.  I like how well it dealt with 
rust and was able to patch holes in floor pans.  

clay

 
 
 
 If you can't see this message please use this link
 
 
  
  Use code JULY4FSO and receive FREE Shipping on any Retail order placed from 
 Tuesday July 3rd thru Monday July 9th 2012.  Remember to use code JULY4FSO on 
 the checkout page to recieve FREE Shipping on your order.
  
  Visit us at:
 por15.com
 
 800-457-6715
 
  
 
 
  
 POR-15 | PO BOX 1235 | Morristown | NJ | 07962 | US
 Unsubscribe from Future Mailings.
 Update your Preferences. 
 Didn't sign up for this? Report it .  

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Re: [MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

2012-07-03 Thread andrew strasfogel
Did you inspect the spin-on filter?  Mine had some fine dust - that
was all it took t rob the car of power going up hills.

On 7/3/12, Rick Hawkins Java macj...@aol.com wrote:
 Folks

 OK  here's the update

 I left athens, ga going to savannah, about 9 sunday nite

 Temps were perfect, with the engine running at about 85 or 90 c
 running the cold r12 AC

 Enroute, i started to have fuel delivery problems (i'm running
 straight WVO). I changed the small fuel filter which was clean. It
 looked like the fuel line may have been collapsing

 So i messed around, traveling the georgia darkness at about 40 mph for
 20 or 30 miles till i got to a well lit place.  I dug deep in my car
 and found a new spin on fuel filter and filled that with ATF and
 primed well .presto, 70 mph the rest of the way to savannah

 It was a troublesome trip, but the travel is the result, i guess!!

 NOW, for heat wave content, i've been sweating for a day here at the
 beach since the central ac here at the house is not firing up. The
 starting capacitor looks blown up (swelled on the top) so i can only
 hope changing that will fire up the compressor again so i can be cool!!
 stay cool!!


 thanks,

 xx rick
 Rick Hawkins


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Re: [MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

2012-07-03 Thread Max Dillon
Glad you made it!  Regarding house central AC, I'll bet you're correct on the 
capacitor.

-Max

Rick Hawkins Java macj...@aol.com wrote:

Folks

OK  here's the update

I left athens, ga going to savannah, about 9 sunday nite

Temps were perfect, with the engine running at about 85 or 90 c  
running the cold r12 AC

Enroute, i started to have fuel delivery problems (i'm running  
straight WVO). I changed the small fuel filter which was clean. It 

looked like the fuel line may have been collapsing

So i messed around, traveling the georgia darkness at about 40 mph for 

20 or 30 miles till i got to a well lit place.  I dug deep in my car  
and found a new spin on fuel filter and filled that with ATF and  
primed well .presto, 70 mph the rest of the way to savannah

It was a troublesome trip, but the travel is the result, i guess!!

NOW, for heat wave content, i've been sweating for a day here at the  
beach since the central ac here at the house is not firing up. The  
starting capacitor looks blown up (swelled on the top) so i can only  
hope changing that will fire up the compressor again so i can be cool!!
stay cool!!


thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD

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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD Questions

2012-07-03 Thread Kevin Kraly
Good news about the transmission, it was low on fluid!  It seems to be 
crisper off the line, and shifting/hanging on upshifts is much better!  It 
seems to have a PS fluid leak as well.  I know that this has the tandem 
ps/sls pump.  Can one circuit leak into the other?


Another minor problem I found is where the fuel filler neck meets the tube 
that leads to the tank behind the passenger's side rear access panel.  This 
gromet seems to be soft and weepy.  I'm going to see if Q has the exterior 
filler neck gromet just below the filler cap as well.  The interior has a 
strange smell, and I'm guessing it's fuel vapors.  Hopefully, I'll have a 
bit more time to start fiddling with things.


Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon
1987 300TD 214Kmi emanon 



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[MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Craig
So what kind of cleanser/detergent does one use with an aluminum
radiator? The manual says neutral and gives some German brands,
but that doesn't help too much here in the U.S.

What kind of stuff should one use?

Thanks,


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Dave Walton
I've been using automatic dishwasher detergent. It's a good non-sudzing 
degreaser. 

-Dave Walton

On Jul 3, 2012, at 4:40 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 So what kind of cleanser/detergent does one use with an aluminum
 radiator? The manual says neutral and gives some German brands,
 but that doesn't help too much here in the U.S.
 
 What kind of stuff should one use?
 
 Thanks,
 
 
 Craig
 
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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Jul 3, 2012 2:46 PM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've been using automatic dishwasher
 detergent.


IIRC Marshall recommended Cascade!

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] dirty oil

2012-07-03 Thread Curt Raymond
When I was driving Hammie the '83 240D and it was leaking a lot of oil I used 
Car Quest brand 15w40 because it was the absolute cheapest oil I could get.

I'd say use something like that and change it a couple times at 1000-1500 mile 
increments. As always drive it HARD to break up carbon and other nasties. 
Change the filter at 3,000 miles or so. For extra points throw some oil 
analysis in there.
When I first got my '85 190D oil analysis indicated high iron levels at ~8,000 
miles. Continued changes with Mobil 1 and hard driving showed no abnormal iron 
levels at over 15,000 mile intervals. My conclusion was the engine was carboned 
up from the loony previous owner and the M1 treatment cleaned it out.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 09:57:09 -0700
From: David Bruckmann bruckma...@transcontinental.ca
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] dirty oil
Message-ID: f06240804cc180d4e2a40@[172.25.104.89]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Use Rotella T 15w40 diesel or another diesel-grade oil that will suspend the 
nasties and sludge and get it out of the engine. You could also put in a litre 
of Rislone to clear up the sludge.

Clay Monroe wrote:

I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as night 
and nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a vergasser, there 
should not be the diesel sooting up of oil.

 What is the group consensus on early change of oil?  Should I just go 
 ahead and toss in fresh oil and filter, or wait another few thousand?  Oil 
 pressure at idle is near nil, but at speed, I have great pressure.

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Re: [MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

2012-07-03 Thread Curt Raymond
I need to do the one in my '78 240D but that car is hard on the aluminum 
washer. I'm hoping it doesn't leak after this but it probably will. I've got 
some buna-n sheet that I'm going to try cutting a washer out of to see if I can 
come up with an acceptable replacement since the original is NLA.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 13:17:19 -0400
From: Rick Hawkins Java macj...@aol.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel
Message-ID: 6b71af39-7654-4a4f-903e-168ff8049...@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes

Folks

OK  here's the update

I left athens, ga going to savannah, about 9 sunday nite

Temps were perfect, with the engine running at about 85 or 90 c  
running the cold r12 AC

Enroute, i started to have fuel delivery problems (i'm running  
straight WVO). I changed the small fuel filter which was clean. It  
looked like the fuel line may have been collapsing

So i messed around, traveling the georgia darkness at about 40 mph for  
20 or 30 miles till i got to a well lit place.  I dug deep in my car  
and found a new spin on fuel filter and filled that with ATF and  
primed well .presto, 70 mph the rest of the way to savannah

It was a troublesome trip, but the travel is the result, i guess!!

NOW, for heat wave content, i've been sweating for a day here at the  
beach since the central ac here at the house is not firing up. The  
starting capacitor looks blown up (swelled on the top) so i can only  
hope changing that will fire up the compressor again so i can be cool!!
stay cool!!


thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins

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Re: [MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

2012-07-03 Thread Scott Ritchey
The starting capacitor looks blown up (swelled on the top)...

Cap is the most probable cause but also check the relay (contactor) contacts
for bugs and dirt.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rick Hawkins Java
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2012 1:17 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

Folks

OK  here's the update

I left athens, ga going to savannah, about 9 sunday nite

Temps were perfect, with the engine running at about 85 or 90 c  
running the cold r12 AC

Enroute, i started to have fuel delivery problems (i'm running  
straight WVO). I changed the small fuel filter which was clean. It  
looked like the fuel line may have been collapsing

So i messed around, traveling the georgia darkness at about 40 mph for  
20 or 30 miles till i got to a well lit place.  I dug deep in my car  
and found a new spin on fuel filter and filled that with ATF and  
primed well .presto, 70 mph the rest of the way to savannah

It was a troublesome trip, but the travel is the result, i guess!!

NOW, for heat wave content, i've been sweating for a day here at the  
beach since the central ac here at the house is not firing up. The  
starting capacitor looks blown up (swelled on the top) so i can only  
hope changing that will fire up the compressor again so i can be cool!!
stay cool!!


thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins


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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread David Bruckmann
I'd be cautious with automatic dishwasher detergent: it is caustic and 
difficult to rinse off vs. laundry detergent. You do NOT want ANY detergent 
residue. IIRC, Marshall's favourite was liquid cold-water Tide HE (low-sudsing 
for front-loading washing machines).

Dave Walton wrote:

I've been using automatic dishwasher detergent. It's a good non-sudzing 
degreaser. 


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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Allan Streib
Dishwasher detergent has a lot of bleach in it, not sure that's
necessary.  To de-oil I'd favor non-sudsy ammonia.  Or maybe simple green?

David Bruckmann bruckma...@transcontinental.ca writes:

 I'd be cautious with automatic dishwasher detergent: it is caustic and 
 difficult to rinse off vs. laundry detergent. You do NOT want ANY detergent 
 residue. IIRC, Marshall's favourite was liquid cold-water Tide HE 
 (low-sudsing for front-loading washing machines).

 Dave Walton wrote:

I've been using automatic dishwasher detergent. It's a good non-sudzing 
degreaser. 


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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Jul 3, 2012 4:37 PM, David Bruckmann bruckma...@transcontinental.ca
wrote:

 IIRC, Marshall's favourite was liquid
 cold-water Tide HE (low-sudsing for
 front-loading washing machines).

I think you're right, at that.  But I'd probably just use Simple Green
since I use it to degrease pretty much everything unless the nuclear option
(brake cleaner) seems absolutely necessary.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] dirty oil

2012-07-03 Thread clay monroe
Swapped it out with castrol 15-50.  New oil is less prone to being so low 
pressure.  Got seafoam to put in when I get ready for another change.

clay

On Jul 3, 2012, at 9:57 AM, David Bruckmann wrote:

 Use Rotella T 15w40 diesel or another diesel-grade oil that will suspend the 
 nasties and sludge and get it out of the engine. You could also put in a 
 litre of Rislone to clear up the sludge.
 
 Clay Monroe wrote:
 
 I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as night 
 and nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a vergasser, there 
 should not be the diesel sooting up of oil.
 
 What is the group consensus on early change of oil?  Should I just go 
 ahead and toss in fresh oil and filter, or wait another few thousand?  Oil 
 pressure at idle is near nil, but at speed, I have great pressure.
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] dirty oil

2012-07-03 Thread Allan Streib
Does the old oil smell like gasoline?

clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net writes:

 Swapped it out with castrol 15-50.  New oil is less prone to being so low 
 pressure.  Got seafoam to put in when I get ready for another change.

 clay

 On Jul 3, 2012, at 9:57 AM, David Bruckmann wrote:

 Use Rotella T 15w40 diesel or another diesel-grade oil that will suspend the 
 nasties and sludge and get it out of the engine. You could also put in a 
 litre of Rislone to clear up the sludge.
 
 Clay Monroe wrote:
 
 I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as night 
 and nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a vergasser, there 
 should not be the diesel sooting up of oil.
 
 What is the group consensus on early change of oil?  Should I just go 
 ahead and toss in fresh oil and filter, or wait another few thousand?  Oil 
 pressure at idle is near nil, but at speed, I have great pressure.
 
 
 ___
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1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] dirty oil

2012-07-03 Thread clay monroe
I assumed there was going to be crud in the engine, so that is why Frosch is 
getting the cheap stuff for now.  Once the oil shows longer life and less gunk, 
I intend to use M1.  Indication that hot pressure will stay up will make me 
feel better.

clay

On Jul 3, 2012, at 3:15 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

 When I was driving Hammie the '83 240D and it was leaking a lot of oil I used 
 Car Quest brand 15w40 because it was the absolute cheapest oil I could get.
 
 I'd say use something like that and change it a couple times at 1000-1500 
 mile increments. As always drive it HARD to break up carbon and other 
 nasties. Change the filter at 3,000 miles or so. For extra points throw some 
 oil analysis in there.
 When I first got my '85 190D oil analysis indicated high iron levels at 
 ~8,000 miles. Continued changes with Mobil 1 and hard driving showed no 
 abnormal iron levels at over 15,000 mile intervals. My conclusion was the 
 engine was carboned up from the loony previous owner and the M1 treatment 
 cleaned it out.
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 09:57:09 -0700
 From: David Bruckmann bruckma...@transcontinental.ca
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] dirty oil
 Message-ID: f06240804cc180d4e2a40@[172.25.104.89]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 
 Use Rotella T 15w40 diesel or another diesel-grade oil that will suspend the 
 nasties and sludge and get it out of the engine. You could also put in a 
 litre of Rislone to clear up the sludge.
 
 Clay Monroe wrote:
 
 I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as night 
 and nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a vergasser, there 
 should not be the diesel sooting up of oil.
 
 What is the group consensus on early change of oil?  Should I just go 
 ahead and toss in fresh oil and filter, or wait another few thousand?  Oil 
 pressure at idle is near nil, but at speed, I have great pressure.
 
 ___
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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] dirty oil

2012-07-03 Thread clay monroe
It smells like worn out oil.  Sad that it should after so few miles or time.  
Not burned, just used.  Like M1 after 6k miles in a 220D.  No water in the oil, 
not whipped up or foamy, no excessive gritty feel to it when rubbed between 
fingers.  It is like an oil vampire sucked all the additives out of it and left 
anemic oil behind

clay




On Jul 3, 2012, at 5:33 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

 Does the old oil smell like gasoline?
 
 clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net writes:
 
 Swapped it out with castrol 15-50.  New oil is less prone to being so low 
 pressure.  Got seafoam to put in when I get ready for another change.
 
 clay
 
 On Jul 3, 2012, at 9:57 AM, David Bruckmann wrote:
 
 Use Rotella T 15w40 diesel or another diesel-grade oil that will suspend 
 the nasties and sludge and get it out of the engine. You could also put in 
 a litre of Rislone to clear up the sludge.
 
 Clay Monroe wrote:
 
 I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as night 
 and nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a vergasser, there 
 should not be the diesel sooting up of oil.
 
 What is the group consensus on early change of oil?  Should I just go 
 ahead and toss in fresh oil and filter, or wait another few thousand?  
 Oil 
 pressure at idle is near nil, but at speed, I have great pressure.
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 -- 
 1983 300D
 1979 300SD
 
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Re: [MBZ] Heat wave

2012-07-03 Thread Mountain Man
Wilton wrote:
 Very bearable 88 here right now; better than 100+ of last several days.

Almost 100 today.  Forecast 100 tomorrow.
I mowed the lawn today... with a shovel.  I just wanted to get some of
the tall weeds out of the brown lawn areas.
Look forward to higher ethanol prices and food prices.  I doubt any of
the cropland in this area grows food and all the crops will be
shriveled in a couple weeks.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Dave Walton
What about straight TSP?

-Dave Walton

On Jul 3, 2012, at 7:37 PM, David Bruckmann bruckma...@transcontinental.ca 
wrote:

 I'd be cautious with automatic dishwasher detergent: it is caustic and 
 difficult to rinse off vs. laundry detergent. You do NOT want ANY detergent 
 residue. IIRC, Marshall's favourite was liquid cold-water Tide HE 
 (low-sudsing for front-loading washing machines).
 
 Dave Walton wrote:
 
 I've been using automatic dishwasher detergent. It's a good non-sudzing 
 degreaser. 
 

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Re: [MBZ] dirty oil

2012-07-03 Thread Brian Toscano
I'd just change oil and filter every 500-1000 miles until that stops.  If
it doesn't get another engine.


On Tue, Jul 3, 2012 at 6:49 PM, clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net wrote:

 It smells like worn out oil.  Sad that it should after so few miles or
 time.  Not burned, just used.  Like M1 after 6k miles in a 220D.  No water
 in the oil, not whipped up or foamy, no excessive gritty feel to it when
 rubbed between fingers.  It is like an oil vampire sucked all the additives
 out of it and left anemic oil behind

 clay




 On Jul 3, 2012, at 5:33 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

  Does the old oil smell like gasoline?
 
  clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net writes:
 
  Swapped it out with castrol 15-50.  New oil is less prone to being so
 low pressure.  Got seafoam to put in when I get ready for another change.
 
  clay
 
  On Jul 3, 2012, at 9:57 AM, David Bruckmann wrote:
 
  Use Rotella T 15w40 diesel or another diesel-grade oil that will
 suspend the nasties and sludge and get it out of the engine. You could also
 put in a litre of Rislone to clear up the sludge.
 
  Clay Monroe wrote:
 
  I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as
 night
  and nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a vergasser,
 there
  should not be the diesel sooting up of oil.
 
  What is the group consensus on early change of oil?  Should I just go
  ahead and toss in fresh oil and filter, or wait another few
 thousand?  Oil
  pressure at idle is near nil, but at speed, I have great pressure.
 
 
  ___
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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  --
  1983 300D
  1979 300SD
 
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Re: [MBZ] dirty oil

2012-07-03 Thread Brian Toscano
Dirty oil doesn't clean as well as clean oil.

How is the compression?

I'd be concerned about any rapid flush products.  You may flush your
compression.


On Tue, Jul 3, 2012 at 7:22 PM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:

 I'd just change oil and filter every 500-1000 miles until that stops.  If
 it doesn't get another engine.


 On Tue, Jul 3, 2012 at 6:49 PM, clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net wrote:

 It smells like worn out oil.  Sad that it should after so few miles or
 time.  Not burned, just used.  Like M1 after 6k miles in a 220D.  No water
 in the oil, not whipped up or foamy, no excessive gritty feel to it when
 rubbed between fingers.  It is like an oil vampire sucked all the additives
 out of it and left anemic oil behind

 clay




 On Jul 3, 2012, at 5:33 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

  Does the old oil smell like gasoline?
 
  clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net writes:
 
  Swapped it out with castrol 15-50.  New oil is less prone to being so
 low pressure.  Got seafoam to put in when I get ready for another change.
 
  clay
 
  On Jul 3, 2012, at 9:57 AM, David Bruckmann wrote:
 
  Use Rotella T 15w40 diesel or another diesel-grade oil that will
 suspend the nasties and sludge and get it out of the engine. You could also
 put in a litre of Rislone to clear up the sludge.
 
  Clay Monroe wrote:
 
  I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as
 night
  and nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a vergasser,
 there
  should not be the diesel sooting up of oil.
 
  What is the group consensus on early change of oil?  Should I just
 go
  ahead and toss in fresh oil and filter, or wait another few
 thousand?  Oil
  pressure at idle is near nil, but at speed, I have great pressure.
 
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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  1979 300SD
 
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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Craig
On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 16:37:42 -0700 David Bruckmann
bruckma...@transcontinental.ca wrote:

 I'd be cautious with automatic dishwasher detergent: it is caustic and
 difficult to rinse off vs. laundry detergent. You do NOT want ANY
 detergent residue. IIRC, Marshall's favourite was liquid cold-water
 Tide HE (low-sudsing for front-loading washing machines).

I unzipped the archive of Marshall's emails that I have and found nothing
on the subject.

Maybe the Allens Naturally HE Biodegradable Liquid Laundry Detergent we
have for our front-loader would do the job.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Rick Knoble

 Craig wrote:
 I unzipped the archive of Marshall's emails that I have and found nothing
 on the subject.
 
 Maybe the Allens Naturally HE Biodegradable Liquid Laundry Detergent we
 have for our front-loader would do the job.

From a Marshall post.
Subject: Re: [DIESEL] Citric flushFrom: Marshall Booth mboo...@pitt.eduDate: 
Tue, 09 Jul 2002 11:54:06 -0400The citric acid fluid is to remove mineral 
deposits. To de-oil (that's a
DIFFERENT procedure) the engine a dishwasher detergent is about as good
as you can get!

Marshall
-- 
  Marshall Booth  
  der Dieseling Doktor mboo...@pitt.edu
'87 300TD 154Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 205Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 224Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
154Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 200+kmi, '84 190D 2.2 234Kmi dismantled 
  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
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Rick
  
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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Craig
On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 19:41:42 -0700 Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com
wrote:

 From a Marshall post.
 Subject: Re: [DIESEL] Citric flushFrom: Marshall Booth mbooth
 +@pitt.eduDate: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 11:54:06 -0400The citric acid fluid
 is to remove mineral deposits. To de-oil (that's a DIFFERENT procedure)
 the engine a dishwasher detergent is about as good as you can get!

Silly me, I was looking for RADIATOR flush, not CITRIC flush.

I found that posting, as well as another which says,
-
Read section 20-015 in the 601 engine manual (or the same section 
in other manuals) on cleaning the cooling system or any chemistry text 
on dissolving salt scale. Citric acid (or any acid) will allow the 
lime/calcium/scale to go into solution. It does NOTHING for oil. A 
deoiling compound is required.

Mercedes lists one available in Europe. Liquid Tide works rather well 
and I expect that Blue Dawn dishwashing detergent would work but I've 
never tried it for that purpose.

and yet another one which says,

The Citra-Solv MIGHT make a good de-oiler, but Blue Dawn, Tide or Spic 
and Span are cheaper and should do as good a job.


He also said,

Dave, Checking 3 different MB engine manuals, MB recommends a 10% (by
weight) citric acid solution. That's 100g per liter of water or 1 kg per
10 liters and that's 2.2 lbs per 2.6 gallons. My belief that anything
from 50% of that to 200% of that stands! They want to to be filled in
and then the engine run (with a blocked open thermostat) and heated to
at least 80 deg. C and then allowed cool to 50 deg. C. before draining
and then the system MUST be flushed 3 times with the water allowed to
heat of for each flush! The heat and time is probably MORE important
that the precise concentration of the mix. 


Regarding removing the thermostat or using one that's been forced open,
the Service Manual, Engines 615, 616, 617.91, says in Section 20-015 to
remove the thermostat. The W124 manual, however, in Section 20-0150 says
to remove the thermostat and install the pressure-opened thermostat part
no. 000 589 74 63 00.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Rick Knoble
On Jul 3, 2012, at 10:13 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 Silly me, I was looking for RADIATOR flush, not CITRIC flush.
 
 I found that posting, as well as another which says,


I just searched for flush in the subject lines. Your archives appear to be 
WAY more complete than mine. I do remember reading those posts when they were 
posted, but I don't have them archived. If you could send me your zip file 
offlist that would be great. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Rick Knoble
On Jul 3, 2012, at 10:13 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 Regarding removing the thermostat or using one that's been forced open,
 the Service Manual, Engines 615, 616, 617.91, says in Section 20-015 to
 remove the thermostat. The W124 manual, however, in Section 20-0150 says
 to remove the thermostat and install the pressure-opened thermostat part
 no. 000 589 74 63 00.


Which explains where the forced open thermostat theory comes from. I figured it 
was left over misinformation from the R/E list. 

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Craig
On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 22:24:34 -0500 Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com
wrote:

 On Jul 3, 2012, at 10:13 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:
 
  Silly me, I was looking for RADIATOR flush, not CITRIC flush.
  
  I found that posting, as well as another which says,
 
 
 I just searched for flush in the subject lines. Your archives appear
 to be WAY more complete than mine. I do remember reading those posts
 when they were posted, but I don't have them archived. If you could
 send me your zip file offlist that would be great. 

Well, the zip file is 13 megabytes. The unzipped directory is 39
megabytes, so zipping does compress it. I'm not quite sure how to send it
to you. (If I were at the Lab, I could send an email that was 100,000,000
bytes, but not here at home.)

Did you try searching for citric?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Fmiser
  Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
  I just searched for flush in the subject lines. Your
  archives appear to be WAY more complete than mine. I do
  remember reading those posts when they were posted, but I
  don't have them archived. If you could send me your zip file
  offlist that would be great. 

 Craig wrote:
 
 Well, the zip file is 13 megabytes. The unzipped directory is
 39 megabytes, so zipping does compress it. I'm not quite sure
 how to send it to you. (If I were at the Lab, I could send an
 email that was 100,000,000 bytes, but not here at home.)

If that's the archive that is a bunch of HTML files of only the
messages Marshall wrote, then it's probably the one I built.

I have it available at http://www.host-a.net/u/fmiser
File name is marshall-mail.zip

-- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Craig
On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 23:15:42 -0500 Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

  Craig wrote:
  
  Well, the zip file is 13 megabytes. The unzipped directory is
  39 megabytes, so zipping does compress it. I'm not quite sure
  how to send it to you. (If I were at the Lab, I could send an
  email that was 100,000,000 bytes, but not here at home.)
 
 If that's the archive that is a bunch of HTML files of only the
 messages Marshall wrote, then it's probably the one I built.
 
 I have it available at http://www.host-a.net/u/fmiser
 File name is marshall-mail.zip

Yup, that's what the zip file is named. It also has 19 selected PDFs of
how to use Diesel Purge and sections of manuals.

-r--r--r--  1 craig 1312 Apr 27  2009 marshall-mail.zip


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Rick Knoble
On Jul 3, 2012, at 10:31 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 Well, the zip file is 13 megabytes. The unzipped directory is 39
 megabytes, so zipping does compress it. I'm not quite sure how to send it
 to you.


If it's Philip's that is the one I have already. I used to know of a site to 
transfer large files... 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Rick Knoble
 Craig wrote:
 
 Well, the zip file is 13 megabytes. The unzipped directory is
 39 megabytes, so zipping does compress it. I'm not quite sure
 how to send it to you. (If I were at the Lab, I could send an
 email that was 100,000,000 bytes, but not here at home.)
 


Found it. 

http://www.yousendit.com/

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] Marshall mail archive. was: De-oiling before citric acid flush

2012-07-03 Thread Fmiser
   Craig wrote:
   
   Well, the zip file is 13 megabytes.

  Fmiser wrote:
  
  If that's the archive that is a bunch of HTML files of only
  the messages Marshall wrote, then it's probably the one I
  built.
  
  I have it available at http://www.host-a.net/u/fmiser
  File name is marshall-mail.zip

 Craig wrote:
 
 Yup, that's what the zip file is named. It also has 19
 selected PDFs of how to use Diesel Purge and sections of
 manuals.
 
 -r--r--r--  1 craig 1312 Apr 27  2009 marshall-mail.zip

The size is a perfect match.  Mine has an older date though.
-r--r--r-- 1 fmiser fmiser 1312 2007-12-04 marshall-mail.zip

So Rick, you can just go download it.  Unless that's the one you
have already. *smiles*

-- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] G-05

2012-07-03 Thread Fmiser

  Max wrote:
  Can be found at NAPA here in South Carolina.

 Dieselhead in central IA wrote:

 NAPA here stocks it Oreally does not have it and won't order
 it.

I checked NAPA.  They looked at me funny and and said huh?.
AutoZone was no better.  O'Reilly has it in stock - but behind
the counter, not on display with the other products.

--   Philip

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[MBZ] Zo Papa, how do you like the IPAD I bought you?

2012-07-03 Thread RELNGSON
http://www.snotr.com/video/8965/
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