Re: [MBZ] OT: re-keying locks

[Fmiser]

> > Jerry Herrman wrote:
> >
> > Am I right in believing that I could remove this cap and
> > replace these pins?  Since I have a few Schlage keys from
> > other locks, would I be able to insert "new"pins that would
> > match up with a specific replacement key?

> Dave Walton wrote:

> The process you want to use is called Impressioning:
> (http://www.gregmiller.net/locks/impress.html)

Jerry was asking about re-keying the cylinder which is one way
to deal with the problem of a key and lock that don't match.

Dave is suggesting creating a key that matches rather than
matching the lock to another existing key.

Both can work.  It depends on which end result you prefer.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: re-keying locks

[Fmiser]

> Jerry Herrman wrote:

> I have a good quality new-in-box Schlage brand deadbolt, but
> the key is missing.

> I am inclined to believe that
> with minimal equipment, and maybe some good instructions, I
> could learn to re-key this and other basic lock cylinders. It
> couldn't be any more difficult then changing oil could it?

It involves lots of small parts that must be in just the right
place and just the right way or it won't work.

So more like repairing the odometer than changing the oil.  But
it's not _hard_.

I have done it dozens of times.  But that was dozens of years
ago, so I don't remember any details - like did I need a working
key.  I think not, because I took a pile of discarded parts and
built a few keyed-alike sets and then filed a key to match.

--Philip, with cobwebs tangled up in those memories.

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Re: [MBZ] Heat pump. Was: overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

[Craig]

On Wed, 04 Jul 2012 23:39:26 -0400 Rich Thomas
 wrote:

> I was thinking to run a tide-coupled heat pump with the fluid pipes out 
> into the marsh but it would only work at high tides.  I would either be 
> cold or hot at low tides.
> 
> I need to keep working on the plan.

How much variation is there between high tide and low tide? Could you put
the pipes below the soil surface a few feet and let the damp soil be your
heatsink?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: re-keying locks

[Jim Cathey]

new-in-box Schlage brand deadbolt, but the key is missing.


I bought a clearance Schlage, not knowing there were no longer
keys in the box.  I went back, and the guy had just re-keyed a
new lock for a customer and had thrown away the original four keys.
He fished them out of the trash and then re-keyed my lock to match
those keys.  No charge, since I'd bought the lock there.  (Big-box
HW store, no longer remember the name, or whether or not the thing
had been Borged since then.)

The right guy can re-key that thing no problem.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] This is fun

[Rich Thomas]

Oh well, I was sorta mostly off the grid last week.

--R

On 7/4/12 10:50 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

Kaleb beat you by a week.

I love the ending, the infamous parts left over...

Rich Thomas  wrote:


Stripping and rebuilding an engine

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=daVDrGsaDME





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Re: [MBZ] Heat pump. Was: overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

[Rich Thomas]

I was thinking to run a tide-coupled heat pump with the fluid pipes out 
into the marsh but it would only work at high tides.  I would either be 
cold or hot at low tides.


I need to keep working on the plan.

--R

On 7/4/12 10:39 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Allan Streib wrote:


Here's something I've wondered though. Dirt is a pretty good insulator.
Do geothermal heat pumps not have a problem, in "cooling" mode, of the
ground around the heat exchanger impeding heat transfer out of the
system?  I guess they must not since they are widely used.


Horizontal loops, if not in ponds, are typically hundreds of feet long 
with thousands of feet of pipe coiled up in them.


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[MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

[Rick Hawkins Java]

Folks

my heat pump does not use ground heat  it's just the standard  
summer ac unit that's reversed for winter so-called heat


for wilton, in SAV it's not too cold in the winter, but i've seen  
temps as low as 17f on Tybee Island in Dec and Jan in the last 10  
years . I guess i'd say not so often freezing temps out here


In Athens, GA (AHN) it's a different story  i saw 107f last week  
and have seen as low as 0f in the last 30 years


It's often below freezing in DEC-MARCH. We'll have 70f highs some  
winter days and then just as often we'll have 39f highs


also for wilton
as you probably know, the airplane way to paint aluminum is to strip  
all the old paint off, etch with the proper acid or chemical for AL  
and then prime with zinc chromate primer (traditionally yellow or green


I would expect that would be the way to go on the aluminum trunk lid  
or whatever it is


AC is still blowing cold

My neighbor is making me go fishing with me tomorrow which should be  
fun.

thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins


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Re: [MBZ] This is fun

[Max Dillon]

Kaleb beat you by a week.

I love the ending, the infamous parts left over...

Rich Thomas  wrote:

>Stripping and rebuilding an engine
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=daVDrGsaDME
>
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD

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Re: [MBZ] Heat pump. Was: overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

[Mitch Haley]

Allan Streib wrote:


Here's something I've wondered though.  Dirt is a pretty good insulator.
Do geothermal heat pumps not have a problem, in "cooling" mode, of the
ground around the heat exchanger impeding heat transfer out of the
system?  I guess they must not since they are widely used.


Horizontal loops, if not in ponds, are typically hundreds of feet long with 
thousands of feet of pipe coiled up in them.


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Re: [MBZ] Heat pump. Was: overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

[Fmiser]

> > Fmiser  writes:
> >
> > With ground-source, the heat pump's external coil should
> > always be at ground temperature.  Ground temp it typically
> > about 60 degrees F, even when the air is -40 F.  So even in
> > extreme cold, the difference is only 30 degrees.  Cooling is
> > even easier.

> Allan Streib wrote:
> 
> Here's something I've wondered though.  Dirt is a pretty good
> insulator. Do geothermal heat pumps not have a problem, in
> "cooling" mode, of the ground around the heat exchanger
> impeding heat transfer out of the system?  I guess they must
> not since they are widely used.

Dry dirt is at best a fair insulator.  Wet dirt is a poor
insulator.

But a ground-source heat pump uses a very large area of ground.
Often water run though many, many linear feet of pipe trenched
into the ground.  Or a well.  Pump the water up, run it through the heat 
exchanger, and pump it back down.

Here's a pretty good simple explanation. 
http://www.iklimnet.com/save/groundsourceheatpumps%20.html

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: re-keying locks

[Scott Ritchey]

Yes you can and it's not too hard but you need a "pin tray" that contains
Schlage pins of various (numbered) lengths.  There is also a metal "card"
with stepped cut-outs that you can use to "gauge" the key you want to use.
That will tell you what size pin to use and it's mucho faster than trial and
error.  You may be lucky and have a key with numbers stamped on it
indicating the correct pin length.  Each pin "hole" will have the
variable-length pin on the bottom, a standard pin (not critical) in the
middle, and a spring on top, all under the cover plate.  Be careful not to
lose any springs, they are under tension.

Or, you can get the kit, which includes keys but the instructions in the kit
probably assume you have the old key (uses a different procedure that's
somewhat easier).

You are lucky that this is a deadbolt with an easily removable cylinder.
The knob-in-handle locks are just about impossible to disassemble without
the old key (or picking the lock).

PM me if you need details.

Scott, 82 300SD 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Jerry Herrman
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2012 8:23 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] OT: re-keying locks

I have a good quality new-in-box Schlage brand deadbolt, but the key is
missing. I do not want to discard this item and wonder if there is something
I can do (at minimal cost)  to get a working key for it. The lock cylinder
can be removed but the cost of a new cylinder is about the same as the cost
of a new deadbolt with two keys. When I removed the lock cylinder, I noted
that there is a small plate or cover over the top of where the pins are. Am
I right in believing that I could remove this cap and replace these pins?
Since I have a few Schlage keys from other locks, would I be able to insert
"new"pins that would  match up with a specific replacement key?  
Where would I get an assortment of pins?
I know that home centers sell kits for re-keying up to six locks of a
specific brand, one kit for Schlage and one kit for Kwikset. However, I was
told that I need to already have a working key in order to re-key a
cylinder. Is this true?
I am inclined to believe that with minimal equipment, and maybe some good
instructions, I could learn to re-key this and other basic lock cylinders.
It couldn't be any more difficult then changing oil could it? 
Now it occurs to me that I could look this up on the Internet. So I will now
do that. Meanwhile, having prepared this inquiry, I will send it.

Jerry
82 240D


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Re: [MBZ] OT: re-keying locks

[Max Dillon]

I'd ask at your local "real" hardware store.  I've bought new dead bolts and 
had them set to match existing keys, but if you don't have the key you may need 
a locksmith.


-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD

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Re: [MBZ] Heat pump. Was: overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

[Dan Penoff]

My HVAC guy in Indiana was trying to push us into doing geothermal for our 4000 
sf house, since we needed AC and the furnace was a crappy 80 some percent model.

The payback was quite attractive, as were the incentives, but we still would 
have paid about $11,000 out of pocket when all was said and done.

One thing that was nice was a state property tax exemption for having the 
system installed. Not sure if this was unique to Indiana, but it did help to 
accelerate the payback.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 4, 2012, at 5:45 PM, OK Don  wrote:

> I think the coils are in ground water, not just dirt. I'll find out for
> sure in August, when we get ours installed. They are planning two 300 ft.
> deep holes for the loops.
> 
> On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 3:09 PM, Allan Streib  wrote:
> 
>> Fmiser  writes:
>> 
>>> With ground-source, the heat pump's external coil should always
>>> be at ground temperature.  Ground temp it typically about 60
>>> degrees F, even when the air is -40 F.  So even in extreme cold,
>>> the difference is only 30 degrees.  Cooling is even easier.
>> 
>> Here's something I've wondered though.  Dirt is a pretty good insulator.
>> Do geothermal heat pumps not have a problem, in "cooling" mode, of the
>> ground around the heat exchanger impeding heat transfer out of the
>> system?  I guess they must not since they are widely used.
>> 
>> Allan
>> --
>> 1983 300D
>> 1979 300SD
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> OK Don
> 2001 ML320
> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] OT: re-keying locks

[Dave Walton]

The process you want to use is called Impressioning: 
(http://www.gregmiller.net/locks/impress.html)

Any file will work, you don't need fancy Swiss ones. When new to the process it 
helps to go over the top of the key blank with a permanent black magic marker 
to help see where the pins hit. You can also try filing at an angle.

Easiest way to find key blanks is to go to a local 2600, hackerspace, or 
locksport meeting. Bring the lock with you. 90% chance someone there will have 
extras on hand. 100% chance they will know someone who does. Worst case you can 
buy them on eBay.

-Dave Walton

On Jul 4, 2012, at 8:23 PM, "Jerry Herrman"  wrote:

> I have a good quality new-in-box Schlage brand deadbolt, but the key is 
> missing. I do not want to discard this item and wonder if there is something 
> I can do (at minimal cost)  to get a working key for it. The lock cylinder 
> can be removed but the cost of a new cylinder is about the same as the cost 
> of a new deadbolt with two keys. When I removed the lock cylinder, I noted 
> that there is a small plate or cover over the top of where the pins are. Am I 
> right in believing that I could remove this cap and replace these pins?  
> Since I have a few Schlage keys from other locks, would I be able to insert 
> "new"pins that would  match up with a specific replacement key?  
> Where would I get an assortment of pins?
> I know that home centers sell kits for re-keying up to six locks of a 
> specific brand, one kit for Schlage and one kit for Kwikset. However, I was 
> told that I need to already have a working key in order to re-key a cylinder. 
> Is this true?
> I am inclined to believe that with minimal equipment, and maybe some good 
> instructions, I could learn to re-key this and other basic lock cylinders. It 
> couldn't be any more difficult then changing oil could it? 
> Now it occurs to me that I could look this up on the Internet. So I will now 
> do that. Meanwhile, having prepared this inquiry, I will send it.
> 
> Jerry
> 82 240D
> 
> 
> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 7271 (20120704) __
> 
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
> 
> http://www.eset.com
> 
> ___
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[MBZ] OT: re-keying locks

[Jerry Herrman]

I have a good quality new-in-box Schlage brand deadbolt, but the key is 
missing. I do not want to discard this item and wonder if there is something I 
can do (at minimal cost)  to get a working key for it. The lock cylinder can be 
removed but the cost of a new cylinder is about the same as the cost of a new 
deadbolt with two keys. When I removed the lock cylinder, I noted that there is 
a small plate or cover over the top of where the pins are. Am I right in 
believing that I could remove this cap and replace these pins?  Since I have a 
few Schlage keys from other locks, would I be able to insert "new"pins that 
would  match up with a specific replacement key?  
Where would I get an assortment of pins?
I know that home centers sell kits for re-keying up to six locks of a specific 
brand, one kit for Schlage and one kit for Kwikset. However, I was told that I 
need to already have a working key in order to re-key a cylinder. Is this true?
I am inclined to believe that with minimal equipment, and maybe some good 
instructions, I could learn to re-key this and other basic lock cylinders. It 
couldn't be any more difficult then changing oil could it? 
Now it occurs to me that I could look this up on the Internet. So I will now do 
that. Meanwhile, having prepared this inquiry, I will send it.

Jerry
82 240D


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[MBZ] 126 reconfirmation

[WILTON]

'Haven't finished waxing it  yet, but I can already tell: it's mighty hard to 
beat the good looks of a glistening, black 126L.

Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] G05 Zerex

[OK Don]

Just call Rusty -- avoid all that calling around, bangig your head against
the wall, etc.

On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 3:10 PM, Allan Streib  wrote:

> Rick Hawkins Java  writes:
>
> > Looking for G05 antifreeze, i called an OReilly in Athens, GA.
> >
> > They didn't really know what i was talking about, but then when
> > pressed, they were able to look up a price of $16 but said it was in
> > none of their warehouses, so they couldn't order it.
>
> Autozone and NAPA are two places I've found it fairly reliably.
>
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
> 1979 300SD
>
> ___
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>
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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Heat pump. Was: overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

[OK Don]

I think the coils are in ground water, not just dirt. I'll find out for
sure in August, when we get ours installed. They are planning two 300 ft.
deep holes for the loops.

On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 3:09 PM, Allan Streib  wrote:

> Fmiser  writes:
>
> > With ground-source, the heat pump's external coil should always
> > be at ground temperature.  Ground temp it typically about 60
> > degrees F, even when the air is -40 F.  So even in extreme cold,
> > the difference is only 30 degrees.  Cooling is even easier.
>
> Here's something I've wondered though.  Dirt is a pretty good insulator.
> Do geothermal heat pumps not have a problem, in "cooling" mode, of the
> ground around the heat exchanger impeding heat transfer out of the
> system?  I guess they must not since they are widely used.
>
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
> 1979 300SD
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>



-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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[MBZ] This is fun

[Rich Thomas]

Stripping and rebuilding an engine

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=daVDrGsaDME

--R

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Re: [MBZ] G-05

[OK Don]

Order several with your next Q order - good price and free shipping - at
least I always have to order enough to get the free shipping.

On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 1:49 PM, Fmiser  wrote:

>
> > > Max wrote:
> > > Can be found at NAPA here in South Carolina.
>
> > Dieselhead in central IA wrote:
>
> > NAPA here stocks it Oreally does not have it and won't order
> > it.
>
> I checked NAPA.  They looked at me funny and and said "huh?".
> AutoZone was no better.  O'Reilly has it in stock - but behind
> the counter, not on display with the other products.
>
> --   Philip
>
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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] G05 Zerex

[Allan Streib]

Rick Hawkins Java  writes:

> Looking for G05 antifreeze, i called an OReilly in Athens, GA.
>
> They didn't really know what i was talking about, but then when
> pressed, they were able to look up a price of $16 but said it was in
> none of their warehouses, so they couldn't order it.

Autozone and NAPA are two places I've found it fairly reliably.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Heat pump. Was: overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

[Allan Streib]

Fmiser  writes:

> With ground-source, the heat pump's external coil should always
> be at ground temperature.  Ground temp it typically about 60
> degrees F, even when the air is -40 F.  So even in extreme cold,
> the difference is only 30 degrees.  Cooling is even easier.

Here's something I've wondered though.  Dirt is a pretty good insulator.
Do geothermal heat pumps not have a problem, in "cooling" mode, of the
ground around the heat exchanger impeding heat transfer out of the
system?  I guess they must not since they are widely used.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] dirty oil

[Brian Toscano]

I would say that I have never heard of Rotella 20-50.  Unless its CF or
better rated I wouldn't use it.  The 15w-40 HDEO is way better.


On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 1:21 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

> An oil analysis will tell you what metals are in the oil, if there is fuel
> or coolant, the viscosity range (for your kits), oxidation and nitration
> levels, soot, and TBN(for some kits). Seems like a waste to tell you what
> you already know - the oil is dirty, change it.
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 8:23 AM, Larry T  wrote:
>
>> A Oil Analysis would cost less than one of those Oil Changes and tell you
>> much. much more  Send me a note and I'll email a sample of the Report
>> you would get for around $20.
>>
>> LarryT
>> youroil.net
>>
>>
>> On 7/3/2012 8:49 PM, clay monroe wrote:
>>
>>> It smells like worn out oil.  Sad that it should after so few miles or
>>> time.  Not burned, just used.  Like M1 after 6k miles in a 220D.  No water
>>> in the oil, not whipped up or foamy, no excessive gritty feel to it when
>>> rubbed between fingers.  It is like an oil vampire sucked all the additives
>>> out of it and left anemic oil behind
>>>
>>> clay
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jul 3, 2012, at 5:33 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
>>>
>>>  Does the old oil smell like gasoline?

 clay monroe  writes:

  Swapped it out with castrol 15-50.  New oil is less prone to being so
> low pressure.  Got seafoam to put in when I get ready for another change.
>
> clay
>
> On Jul 3, 2012, at 9:57 AM, David Bruckmann wrote:
>
>  Use Rotella T 15w40 diesel or another diesel-grade oil that will
>> suspend the nasties and sludge and get it out of the engine. You could 
>> also
>> put in a litre of Rislone to clear up the sludge.
>>
>> Clay Monroe wrote:
>>
>>  I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as
 night
 and nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a vergasser,
 there
 should not be the diesel sooting up of oil.

 What is the group consensus on early change of oil?  Should I just
 go
 ahead and toss in fresh oil and filter, or wait another few
 thousand?  Oil
 pressure at idle is near nil, but at speed, I have great pressure.

>>>
>> __**_
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives 
>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>
>
> __**_
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives 
> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>
>  --
 1983 300D
 1979 300SD

 __**_
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 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com

>>>
>>> __**_
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>> To search list archives 
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>> __**_
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives 
>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] dirty oil

[Brian Toscano]

An oil analysis will tell you what metals are in the oil, if there is fuel
or coolant, the viscosity range (for your kits), oxidation and nitration
levels, soot, and TBN(for some kits). Seems like a waste to tell you what
you already know - the oil is dirty, change it.


On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 8:23 AM, Larry T  wrote:

> A Oil Analysis would cost less than one of those Oil Changes and tell you
> much. much more  Send me a note and I'll email a sample of the Report
> you would get for around $20.
>
> LarryT
> youroil.net
>
>
> On 7/3/2012 8:49 PM, clay monroe wrote:
>
>> It smells like worn out oil.  Sad that it should after so few miles or
>> time.  Not burned, just used.  Like M1 after 6k miles in a 220D.  No water
>> in the oil, not whipped up or foamy, no excessive gritty feel to it when
>> rubbed between fingers.  It is like an oil vampire sucked all the additives
>> out of it and left anemic oil behind
>>
>> clay
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jul 3, 2012, at 5:33 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
>>
>>  Does the old oil smell like gasoline?
>>>
>>> clay monroe  writes:
>>>
>>>  Swapped it out with castrol 15-50.  New oil is less prone to being so
 low pressure.  Got seafoam to put in when I get ready for another change.

 clay

 On Jul 3, 2012, at 9:57 AM, David Bruckmann wrote:

  Use Rotella T 15w40 diesel or another diesel-grade oil that will
> suspend the nasties and sludge and get it out of the engine. You could 
> also
> put in a litre of Rislone to clear up the sludge.
>
> Clay Monroe wrote:
>
>  I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as
>>> night
>>> and nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a vergasser,
>>> there
>>> should not be the diesel sooting up of oil.
>>>
>>> What is the group consensus on early change of oil?  Should I just go
>>> ahead and toss in fresh oil and filter, or wait another few
>>> thousand?  Oil
>>> pressure at idle is near nil, but at speed, I have great pressure.
>>>
>>
> __**_
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives 
> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>

 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com

  --
>>> 1983 300D
>>> 1979 300SD
>>>
>>> __**_
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>> To search list archives 
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>>
>>
>> __**_
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives 
>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>
> __**_
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives 
> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Heat pump. Was: overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

[Fmiser]

> Rick Hawkins Java wrote:
>
> It's a heat pump and is fairly lame for heating below temps of
> about 35F but it has always worked well for AC.

That is the nature of a heat pump.  It does not generate heat,
it moves it from one place to another.  In A/C mode, it moves
heat from inside to outside.  In heat mode, it extracts what
heat it can from the outside and moves it inside.   If the
exterior coil is coupled to the air, then when it's 30 degrees F
outside and you want the inside vent temperature to be 90
degrees F it has a 60 degree F difference.  For non-exotic
refrigeration that's a big step

With ground-source, the heat pump's external coil should always
be at ground temperature.  Ground temp it typically about 60
degrees F, even when the air is -40 F.  So even in extreme cold,
the difference is only 30 degrees.  Cooling is even easier.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

[WILTON]

How often is temp. below 35F there?  ;<)

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Rick Hawkins Java" 

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2012 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel



Folks

someone asked if it looked like there was crap in the spin on fuel  filter 
that i changed.


Actually, i left out the part of the story where i removed the spin on 
and dumped it out and then reinstalled the same filter (it was no 
convenient to get to a new one pack at the bottom of my stuff in the 
car).


What was in the spin on looked ok, fairly clean.

Now for the rest of the story on the central AC system here at the 
house. yesterday i went into savannah and bought a couple of 5/35  mfd 
400v starting capacitors (one for the AC and one to keep on hand).


I installed one and VOILA, compressor and condenser fan start up and 
house is cool. This ac unit is a Goodman and it's probably about 14  years 
old. It's a heat pump and is fairly lame for heating below temps  of about 
35F but it has always worked well for AC. It's been run by us  probably 3 
or 4 months a year for the past 12 years and the only  repairs have been 
filter changes and i did replace the starting  capacitor on the air 
handler fan about 10 years ago . it's pretty  amazing to me. I want to 
put some gauges on the system soon. I've  never added R22 to it in all 
that time although i did check the  pressures maybe 8 years ago.


So, happy 4th of july, all
thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins


From: "Scott Ritchey" 
Date: July 3, 2012 6:19:43 PM EDT
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List 


"The starting capacitor looks blown up (swelled on the top)..."

Cap is the most probable cause but also check the relay (contactor) 
contacts

for bugs and dirt.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com 
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com ]

On Behalf Of Rick Hawkins Java
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2012 1:17 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

Folks

OK  here's the update

I left athens, ga going to savannah, about 9 sunday nite

Temps were perfect, with the engine running at about 85 or 90 c
running the cold r12 AC

Enroute, i started to have fuel delivery problems (i'm running
straight WVO). I changed the small fuel filter which was clean. It
looked like the fuel line may have been collapsing

So i messed around, traveling the georgia darkness at about 40 mph for
20 or 30 miles till i got to a well lit place.  I dug deep in my car
and found a new spin on fuel filter and filled that with ATF and
primed well .presto, 70 mph the rest of the way to savannah

It was a troublesome trip, but the travel is the result, i guess!!

NOW, for heat wave content, i've been sweating for a day here at the
beach since the central ac here at the house is not firing up. The
starting capacitor looks blown up (swelled on the top) so i can only
hope changing that will fire up the compressor again so i can be cool!!
stay cool!!

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[MBZ] Fwd: Re: overheating, heat wave and 300td travel a2ydu3et

[Rich Thomas]

 Original Message 
Subject:Re: [MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel
Date:   Wed, 04 Jul 2012 14:20:26 -0400
From:   Rich Thomas 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 



Mine crapped out a coupla years ago too, had a repair guy come and
replace it.  The unit quit working again again at some point later so I
went and bought a couple ($2 apiece!) and replaced it again, did not
work.  Called the repair guy who came out and determined the "new" fan
motor they had installed (after the cap had fried once) while I was gone
and my wife was home ($450) was a cheap "repair" motor.  The guy was
profusely apologetic, he put in a proper new one and said he had fired
the tech who did because the guy was ripping him off.  He figured he put
in the cheap repair/used motor and took the new one back and got money
for it.  The cheap repair motor lasted maybe a year or so on the heat
pump unit then burned out. The good motors are fairly expensive but the
repair motors are pretty cheap.

--R

On 7/4/12 1:17 PM, Rick Hawkins Java wrote:

Folks

someone asked if it looked like there was crap in the spin on fuel
filter that i changed.

Actually, i left out the part of the story where i removed the spin on
and dumped it out and then reinstalled the same filter (it was no
convenient to get to a new one pack at the bottom of my stuff in the
car).

What was in the spin on looked ok, fairly clean.

Now for the rest of the story on the central AC system here at the
house. yesterday i went into savannah and bought a couple of 5/35
mfd 400v starting capacitors (one for the AC and one to keep on hand).

I installed one and VOILA, compressor and condenser fan start up and
house is cool. This ac unit is a Goodman and it's probably about 14
years old. It's a heat pump and is fairly lame for heating below temps
of about 35F but it has always worked well for AC. It's been run by us
probably 3 or 4 months a year for the past 12 years and the only
repairs have been filter changes and i did replace the starting
capacitor on the air handler fan about 10 years ago . it's pretty
amazing to me. I want to put some gauges on the system soon. I've
never added R22 to it in all that time although i did check the
pressures maybe 8 years ago.

So, happy 4th of july, all
thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins






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Re: [MBZ] Marshall mail archive. was: De-oiling before citric acid flush

[Craig]

On Wed, 4 Jul 2012 02:49:57 -0500 Rick Knoble 
wrote:

> It is. I already downloaded it. Strange I didn't find the posts that
> Craig did though...

I opened marshall-mail/maillist.html in my web browser and searched on
the page for "citric". The subject subject lines are:

Re: [DIESEL] Citric flush
Re: [DIESEL] Source to buy citric acid?
Re: [DIESEL] Source to buy citric acid?
Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush
Re: [MBZ] Citric Acid Flush
Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush
Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions
Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions
Re: [MBZ] Citric acid cleanup
Re: [MBZ] Citric acid cleanup
Re: [MBZ] Citric acid cleanup
Re: [MBZ] Citric acid cleanup


Craig

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[MBZ] G05 Zerex

[Rick Hawkins Java]

Looking for G05 antifreeze, i called an OReilly in Athens, GA.

They didn't really know what i was talking about, but then when  
pressed, they were able to look up a price of $16 but said it was in  
none of their warehouses, so they couldn't order it.


thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins


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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

[Craig]

On Wed, 4 Jul 2012 08:14:03 -0400 Dan Penoff  wrote:

> For that matter, I only de-oiled when I found traces of oil in the
> reservoir. Otherwise I went right to the citric acid.

That's what I have done in the past, too, but the paper 61x engine manual
I have says,

Attention!
Prior to decalcification, BE SURE to de-oil cooling
system even if there is no visible oiling-up.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Marshall mail archive. was: De-oiling before citric acid flush

[Craig]

On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 23:37:54 -0500 Fmiser  wrote:

> > Craig wrote:
> > 
> > Yup, that's what the zip file is named. It also has 19
> > selected PDFs of how to use Diesel Purge and sections of
> > manuals.
> > 
> > -r--r--r--  1 craig 1312 Apr 27  2009 marshall-mail.zip
> 
> The size is a perfect match.  Mine has an older date though.
> -r--r--r-- 1 fmiser fmiser 1312 2007-12-04 marshall-mail.zip

Your date is when it was put on your file system; my date is when I
downloaded it and put it on my file system.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

[Rick Hawkins Java]

Folks

someone asked if it looked like there was crap in the spin on fuel  
filter that i changed.


Actually, i left out the part of the story where i removed the spin on  
and dumped it out and then reinstalled the same filter (it was no  
convenient to get to a new one pack at the bottom of my stuff in the  
car).


What was in the spin on looked ok, fairly clean.

Now for the rest of the story on the central AC system here at the  
house. yesterday i went into savannah and bought a couple of 5/35  
mfd 400v starting capacitors (one for the AC and one to keep on hand).


I installed one and VOILA, compressor and condenser fan start up and  
house is cool. This ac unit is a Goodman and it's probably about 14  
years old. It's a heat pump and is fairly lame for heating below temps  
of about 35F but it has always worked well for AC. It's been run by us  
probably 3 or 4 months a year for the past 12 years and the only  
repairs have been filter changes and i did replace the starting  
capacitor on the air handler fan about 10 years ago . it's pretty  
amazing to me. I want to put some gauges on the system soon. I've  
never added R22 to it in all that time although i did check the  
pressures maybe 8 years ago.


So, happy 4th of july, all
thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins


From: "Scott Ritchey" 
Date: July 3, 2012 6:19:43 PM EDT
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List 


"The starting capacitor looks blown up (swelled on the top)..."

Cap is the most probable cause but also check the relay (contactor)  
contacts

for bugs and dirt.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com 
]

On Behalf Of Rick Hawkins Java
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2012 1:17 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] overheating, heat wave and 300td travel

Folks

OK  here's the update

I left athens, ga going to savannah, about 9 sunday nite

Temps were perfect, with the engine running at about 85 or 90 c
running the cold r12 AC

Enroute, i started to have fuel delivery problems (i'm running
straight WVO). I changed the small fuel filter which was clean. It
looked like the fuel line may have been collapsing

So i messed around, traveling the georgia darkness at about 40 mph for
20 or 30 miles till i got to a well lit place.  I dug deep in my car
and found a new spin on fuel filter and filled that with ATF and
primed well .presto, 70 mph the rest of the way to savannah

It was a troublesome trip, but the travel is the result, i guess!!

NOW, for heat wave content, i've been sweating for a day here at the
beach since the central ac here at the house is not firing up. The
starting capacitor looks blown up (swelled on the top) so i can only
hope changing that will fire up the compressor again so i can be cool!!
stay cool!!

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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD Questions

[Dieselhead]

Can, but most of the PS leaks are the low pressure return line 
weeping.  On one 124, the steering arm seal on the steering gearbox 
leaked.



Good news about the transmission, it was low on fluid!  It seems to 
be crisper off the line, and shifting/hanging on upshifts is much 
better!  It seems to have a PS fluid leak as well.  I know that this 
has the tandem ps/sls pump.  Can one circuit leak into the other?


Another minor problem I found is where the fuel filler neck meets 
the tube that leads to the tank behind the passenger's side rear 
access panel.  This gromet seems to be soft and weepy.  I'm going to 
see if Q has the exterior filler neck gromet just below the filler 
cap as well.  The interior has a strange smell, and I'm guessing 
it's fuel vapors.  Hopefully, I'll have a bit more time to start 
fiddling with things.


Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon
1987 300TD 214Kmi emanon


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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD Questions

[Dieselhead]

My 87 D, TD, and SDL all have drain plus as did the 88 TE,



On Fri, Jun 29, 2012, at 09:43 AM, Kevin Slater wrote:


 You CAN drain the torque converter(s?), but it's a total pain in the neck.


Not if they have a drain plug, which most of the older ones do.  Not 
sure when this stopped being the norm, I'd guess when they developed 
"lifetime" sealed transmissions.


Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid

[WILTON]

'Haven't done it under a shade tree, yet, but haven't had a proper booth, 
yet, either.  Thanks for the primer reminder - 'was wondering about that.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Rick Knoble" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2012 12:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid



On Jul 4, 2012, at 10:40 AM, "WILTON"  wrote:

When weather cools some, I'll take the lid back off, strip it to clear 
metal and paint it again.  Like I said, I don't give up easily - well, if 
I don't get too used to it, anyway.   ;<)



You may want to take it back to factory primer only. Aluminum requires 
different surface prep and primer IIRC. OR take a body shop class at your 
local community college. It would be much better to paint in a proper 
spray booth than under a shade tree. You could probably go for free, 
because you are a veteran and a seasoned citizen.


Rick
Who was going to use ' instead of "It would be"
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid

[Rick Knoble]

On Jul 4, 2012, at 10:40 AM, "WILTON"  wrote:

> When weather cools some, I'll take the lid back off, strip it to clear metal 
> and paint it again.  Like I said, I don't give up easily - well, if I don't 
> get too used to it, anyway.   ;<)


You may want to take it back to factory primer only. Aluminum requires 
different surface prep and primer IIRC. OR take a body shop class at your local 
community college. It would be much better to paint in a proper spray booth 
than under a shade tree. You could probably go for free, because you are a 
veteran and a seasoned citizen. 

Rick
Who was going to use ' instead of "It would be"
Sent from my iPhone

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[MBZ] 126 trunk lid

[WILTON]

'Been outside in the shade, of course, cleaning and waxing rear quarter panels, 
rear doors, etc., of the black 126.  When I moved the car back to its usual 
parking space, the AC was blowing so ICE COLD, I just sat and enjoyed it a few 
minutes before coming on inside.

BTW, SWMBO told me yesterday how great the trunk lid looks.  Obviously, she 
hasn't noticed the freckles/pitting yet, and I didn't point 'em out (hard to 
miss, I thought).  It was all nice, smooth and uniform looking when I installed 
it at about 0800 Mon.  After sitting in sun rest of day, the freckles/pitting 
had developed all over the horizontal area, except where I had sanded 
completely through the old re-paint coat to the original coat to repair damages 
(gouges and cracks) in the top coat.  When weather cools some, I'll take the 
lid back off, strip it to clear metal and paint it again.  Like I said, I don't 
give up easily - well, if I don't get too used to it, anyway.   ;<)

Wilton 
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Re: [MBZ] dirty oil

[Larry T]

A Oil Analysis would cost less than one of those Oil Changes and tell 
you much. much more  Send me a note and I'll email a sample of the 
Report you would get for around $20.


LarryT
youroil.net

On 7/3/2012 8:49 PM, clay monroe wrote:

It smells like worn out oil.  Sad that it should after so few miles or time.  
Not burned, just used.  Like M1 after 6k miles in a 220D.  No water in the oil, 
not whipped up or foamy, no excessive gritty feel to it when rubbed between 
fingers.  It is like an oil vampire sucked all the additives out of it and left 
anemic oil behind

clay




On Jul 3, 2012, at 5:33 PM, Allan Streib wrote:


Does the old oil smell like gasoline?

clay monroe  writes:


Swapped it out with castrol 15-50.  New oil is less prone to being so low 
pressure.  Got seafoam to put in when I get ready for another change.

clay

On Jul 3, 2012, at 9:57 AM, David Bruckmann wrote:


Use Rotella T 15w40 diesel or another diesel-grade oil that will suspend the 
nasties and sludge and get it out of the engine. You could also put in a litre 
of Rislone to clear up the sludge.

Clay Monroe wrote:


I have about 1k on the recent oil fill in Frosch.  Oil is black as night
and nasty.  Granted, I used rotella 20-50, but being a vergasser, there
should not be the diesel sooting up of oil.

What is the group consensus on early change of oil?  Should I just go
ahead and toss in fresh oil and filter, or wait another few thousand?  Oil
pressure at idle is near nil, but at speed, I have great pressure.


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--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

[Dan Penoff]

You're looking for something similar to TSP for de-oiling. I would go with the 
front loader detergent (I seem to recall the mention of Tide somewhere as well) 
rather than dish washing detergent, which is somewhat caustic and can damage 
aluminum.

For that matter, I only de-oiled when I found traces of oil in the reservoir. 
Otherwise I went right to the citric acid.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 3, 2012, at 9:55 PM, Craig  wrote:

> On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 16:37:42 -0700 David Bruckmann
>  wrote:
> 
>> I'd be cautious with automatic dishwasher detergent: it is caustic and
>> difficult to rinse off vs. laundry detergent. You do NOT want ANY
>> detergent residue. IIRC, Marshall's favourite was liquid cold-water
>> Tide HE (low-sudsing for front-loading washing machines).
> 
> I unzipped the archive of Marshall's emails that I have and found nothing
> on the subject.
> 
> Maybe the "Allens Naturally HE Biodegradable Liquid Laundry Detergent" we
> have for our front-loader would do the job.
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

[Jaime Kopchinski]

I use a "free and clear" HE laundry soap... it works well and doesn't foam
up.  I'd guess lots of options are ok, just rinse throughly!

Jaime


On Tue, Jul 3, 2012 at 4:40 PM, Craig  wrote:

> So what kind of cleanser/detergent does one use with an aluminum
> radiator? The manual says "neutral" and gives some German brands,
> but that doesn't help too much here in the U.S.
>
> What kind of stuff should one use?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Craig
>
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-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] Marshall mail archive. was: De-oiling before citric acid flush

[Rick Knoble]

On Jul 3, 2012, at 11:40 PM, "Fmiser"  wrote:

> So Rick, you can just go download it.  Unless that's the one you
> have already. *smiles*


It is. I already downloaded it. Strange I didn't find the posts that Craig did 
though...

Rick
Who is trying to figure out how Philip uploaded such large files on dial up...
Sent from my iPhone

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