Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: Jabba key parts

[j...@windwireless.net]

And what do you people do with your keys?  Eat them?

Stupid PO's manage to lose all but one key, most of the time.
That can be annoying, and vaguely dangerous.

-- Jim

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Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL A/C Blowing fuses

[j...@windwireless.net]

vents the heat still pours out of the defroster vents.  Changed the first
fuse and after another hour or so of running fine, the same thing 
happened.

Poor fuse contacts?  Keep fan on low
try one more time.

-- Jim (on road)

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Re: [MBZ] Very Aggravating

[j...@windwireless.net]

>That's how they caught Timothy McVey - he was driving without plates 
(also
>without a license, with a loaded hand gun beside him on the seat with no
>permit). It was the next day before they linked him ti the bombing ---

State laws vary.  Once upon a time (and probably no longer), on the front
seat next to you was the _only_ way to carry a handgun in WA.  
_Concealing_
it was the crime, not the having of it...

-- Jim

 
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) SL seat removal?

[j...@windwireless.net]

>Back to the seat.  HOW THE EF do these things come out.  Smack it with 
heavy rubber mallet. Rock it back and forth, >sideways.  Kick it, yell at 
it.  Give up, hang up my shop smock and write a message to the mercedes 
group.

Did you try asking it nicely?  :-)

They're a pain.  If yours has seat height jacks they slide forwards out of 
the sockets in the jack rails.  They often catch miserably.  There should 
be one bolt at the front of each rail, and two holding the cap at each 
rear.  Unless you have some other weird thing, our 450 had height knobs at 
the rear of the rails rather than jacks.  Don't take the jacks apart, if 
you have them.

-- Jim

 
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Re: [MBZ] Ball joint etc.

[j...@windwireless.net]

What I use that seems to work is to put pressure on the BJ using
either a puller or a pickle fork, and if a bit of tapping (on the nut)
doesn't do it then I 'pinch' the socket between two BFH's, one of
them as an anvil, and it pops loose.  I forget where I learned that
one.

-- Jim

 
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Re: [MBZ] Bull or buy it?

[j...@windwireless.net]

>Since I will not be restoring the AC system, Maybe I plumb the compressor 
as vac,
>and get a small propane tank as back up vac rez.

No need to butcher it.  The system, when working as designed, needs
no such help.  You just have to find and fix the leaks.  The engine itself
is already a sufficient vacuum source for everything.  The next owner
of the car may prefer to find all the AC parts there in restorable 
condition.

I cursed the #$%$% who removed the AC parts on the 240D Albatross.
Had they still been there I could probably have restored it to operation
cheaply, and made more off of the car.  And the next owner would have
had AC.

-- Jim

 
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Re: [MBZ] Bull or buy it?

[j...@windwireless.net]

>He had vac leak in the pass door, and I am guessing there are more to be 
found.

No doubt.

>Manual said there are limited open cycle before the vac res goes flat.

Absolutely.  There's a vacuum reservoir, I think behind the LF fender, 
that's supposed
to hold vacuum for a week or more.  Usually they don't due to slow leaks in 
the system.
Overnight is nice to achieve, though.  It's the later systems that got the 
electric pump,
which can overcome such small leaks.  (Slow electrical leaks are easier to 
find, I guess!)

-- Jim

 
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Re: [MBZ] Templates

[j...@windwireless.net]

>Single carpet, crease from floor to back seat panel?

The fuel tank panel in ours was already carpeted.  Real thin kind of thing, 
though.
But a crease ought to do it.  Stock, though, is not a single piece, the 
bottom carpet
lifts out entirely.  You'd want that, for cleaning.

-- Jim

 
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Frosch

[j...@windwireless.net]

My cats, when I got them off (for other reasons), were empty.

-- Jim

 
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Re: [MBZ] Bull or buy it?

[j...@windwireless.net]

>One issue I just came across, the trunk has decided to lock and will not 
open with key.

Vibrator on key, like ignition approach?  Or does it turn OK but not 
release.  Saw
that on a car where the slider didn't quite move enough to let the button 
travel hit
the release lever.  (Vac system fault, essentially.  Loose screw was 
ultimate culprit.)
Trunk's pretty secure.  You may be able to get a MityVac on the lines to 
shift it, the
tee knot is (unfortunately) under the glove box kind of close to the edge 
of the car.
Maybe too close to access well with the dash in.  I cut ours directly under 
the
glove box, and used rubber links to patch it up.

-- Jim

 
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Re: [MBZ] Frosch

[j...@windwireless.net]

>The clips are fine, the visors are not so fine.  Puffed up and wobbly.

Nasty.  Ours were like bent coathangers stuffed into socks with some 
sawdust
filling.  Replaced them with the cheap reproductions from Performance 
Products.
Not as good as new, but really quite tolerable.

-- Jim

 
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Frosch

[j...@windwireless.net]

>Going to reduce hood temps when BiL and I cut out the cat and toss in a 
straight pipe instead.

Cat?  Your 74 has a catastrophic converter?  Thought that came in '75, both 
it and '76 had
them underhood.  '77+ moved them under the car.  Running from memory here, 
though.

-- Jim

 
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Re: [MBZ] Templates

[j...@windwireless.net]

>Could you make a template of your mats and ship it along?

Sadly, time is at a premium these days.  The '76 is long gone now,
though we do have three newer ones, all with the factory carpeting.

No problem having your kid stop by at a mutually-convenient time
to take measurements.  I just fit the mat and trimmed, cautiously,
with the snips until it fit right.  Easy to take off a little more, not so
easy to put a little back!

>Are the panels wall as well as floor?

The newer SL's have fully carpeted interiors.  Ours do, anyway.

The '76 had some kind of material on the side and front walls,
but no floor carpet and an untreated antenna and battery cover.
This is what ours looked like after I was done:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/JSL/JSLtrunk.jpg
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/JSL/JSLtrunk2.jpg

-- Jim

 
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Re: [MBZ] Templates

[j...@windwireless.net]

>The SL is missing the trunk panels.

Our '76 didn't have them either.  Not sure it was supposed to, really.  I 
made some out
of rubberized mats, the kind you're supposed to wipe your feet on at the 
door.  (Inside.)
They looked pretty good.  I tie-wrapped a tube of it around the antenna. to 
complete the
ensemble.  Used tin snips to cut the stuff, I think I bought two mats.

-- Jim

 
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Frosch

[j...@windwireless.net]

>1974 450SL

This would have D-Jet, right?  Make sure it's not got any dying
rubber in the fuel system, I've heard tell of fires.

-- Jim

 
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Re: [MBZ] Paging Jim Cathey: 'fixlinks'

[j...@windwireless.net]

On vacation on the road, connectivity is poor.  The script should
be available as: http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/fixlinks

-- Jim

 
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Re: [MBZ] extra-slow 240D

[j...@windwireless.net]

>"The DMV won't believe you got it for less than $7500."
>Yes, I've heard that WA state DMV has certain revenue enhancement 
procedures in 
>place. Perhaps Mr. Cathey (or Gump's owner) could elaborate.

Yes, a bill of sale is not adequate to establish value.  The DMV has a form 
that you both sign,

use that instead of a bill of sale.

-- Jim

 
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Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

[j...@windwireless.net]

The flasher will whine/buzz if there's a load on it
even when the switch (to the lamps) is off.  I found
this out when I hooked up an auxiliary clacker
relay in the SL, but did it 'wrong'.

In normal operation it flashes when it sees a
full load on it, and waits quietly until it does see
such a load.  Remember that it's calibrated to
flash faster under a too-light load, as a lamp-out
warning.  Taken to extremes apparently it can
get to the buzz/whine point.

Pull the flasher and measure the resistance from
the output socket pin to ground, there should be
infinite resistance unless a turn signal or hazard
switch is engaged.  I'm guessing it's a leaky/dirty
hazard switch that's letting some current, at a
non-illuminating level, travel through it.  Regardless,
I'm thinking you'll find a parasitic leak, and your
job is to chase it down and kill it.

-- Jim


From: "Bill R" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 6:12 AM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD 

I didn't know the relays were interchangeable.  I had noticed that there
seems to be more pins than metal contact sleeves in some of the sockets, 
and
wondered if I had knocked one loose during the [relatively gentle] 
cleaning.
I'll take a look at the numbers on the relays.
Thanks - Bill

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of MG
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 8:09 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

Maybe a relay problem since it changes when you messed with that 
relay. I would try switching another relay of the same type from 
another position and see if it improves. If not then look for a 
bad contact on the back of the instrument panel. Possible loose 
wire or even a broken trace on the board. A loose wire can make a 
buzzing noise when the power sparks across the gap. Check all the 
contacts in the plug on the back of the board.

Manfred

Message: 7
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 16:47:28 -0400
From: "Bill R" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

Guess I should get a bit more specific.  The temp, fuel, oil pressure
[pegged at the top] speedo, tach and blinkers are dead.  The 
clock. odo and
flashers do work.
BillR

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