Re: [MBZ] $500 210 99 E300D

2018-06-28 Thread Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes
Maybe block off the egr and run the pump on a dsl1. Much simpler and works
> with factory tps, wastegate controller and even the tcu I think.
>
> On Wed, Jun 27, 2018, 12:59 PM Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>> OMG how ugly can you get.
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 25, 2018 at 6:48 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > Everybody should have one of their own:
>> > https://www.copart.com/lot/35449968
>> >
>> > ___
>> > http://www.okiebenz.com
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>> >
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Re: [MBZ] $500 210 99 E300D

2018-06-27 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
OMG how ugly can you get.

On Mon, Jun 25, 2018 at 6:48 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>
> Everybody should have one of their own:
> https://www.copart.com/lot/35449968
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
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Re: [MBZ] $500 210 99 E300D

2018-06-25 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes


Everybody should have one of their own:
https://www.copart.com/lot/35449968

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Re: [MBZ] $500 210 99 E300D

2017-12-30 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Glow plugs are the long thin kind that break off in the head if you're not 
super careful.  Three secrets:  hot engine, remove injectors and soak inner GP 
end with solvent, use an impact gun on very low setting.

WIS is your friend for the factory service procedures.

Massive smoke maybe EGR failed wide open?

Did you go to Don's Car Crushing and get parts today?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On December 30, 2017 6:27:08 PM EST, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>I fixed the rear window regulator this afternoon with one I got off
>another at the knackers. I had to swap motors though as they were
>different for some reason. I drilled out the rivets and used some
>machine screws with nylock nuts to put it back on, I guess the factory
>saved 13 cents on that part. 
>
>Went to put the door panel back on and realized all the little plastic
>push on rivet thingies were all broken. I need to find some more.
>Anyone know what they might be number wise or something?
>
>I also noticed the whole door panel is basically held together with hot
>melt glue. A couple of the plastic push rivets holders were coming off
>so I hot melt glued them back on. Then what looks like a thin
>fiberglass channel thingie is also hot melt glued to the door panel and
>that is all come apart.  that fits over the snap thingies at the top of
>the door below the window to hold the top of the panel in place. I
>gotta glue that back up when I find some rivet thingies. 
>
>I can’t believe how cheaply built this thing is.   Cheap plastic and
>hot melt glue. I guess being used to the 123 and 126 this thing
>represents a new generation of “progress.”
>
>I had the charger on the battery and decided to fire it up, it actually
>started pretty well today at 52F. It runs a bit rough every few seconds
>and acts like it is “missing” like a gasser with a bad ignition. When
>it’s not doing that it is fairly smooth. I took it out on the road and
>it was Not Happy, belching smoke like an old coal locomotive. Didn’t
>want to shift right either. It did that before, I think this is related
>to the EGR and GP codes it is throwing. After fixing the steering rack
>bushings it is pretty tight and handles well, there were some rattles
>and clunks in the back I’ll have to chase down. Heat and radio were
>working fine after I put in the radio code which I guess went away when
>the battery got low. 
>
>Anywhere to find a maintenance manual for this thing to figure out the
>GP and EGR issues and how to replace them ( or even where they are?).
>EGR is spendy so I might do the GPs first and see about cleaning the
>EGR or something before buying one. I know someone before said the GPs
>were Not Fun. (I am being lazy and not investigating myself, figured
>y’all could set me right)
>
>Hope y’all had some wrenching time today. Gonna get colder here the
>next few days BAH!
>
>--R
>Sent from iPhone
>___
>http://www.okiebenz.com
>
>To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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[MBZ] $500 210 99 E300D

2017-12-30 Thread Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes
I fixed the rear window regulator this afternoon with one I got off another at 
the knackers. I had to swap motors though as they were different for some 
reason. I drilled out the rivets and used some machine screws with nylock nuts 
to put it back on, I guess the factory saved 13 cents on that part. 

Went to put the door panel back on and realized all the little plastic push on 
rivet thingies were all broken. I need to find some more. Anyone know what they 
might be number wise or something?

I also noticed the whole door panel is basically held together with hot melt 
glue. A couple of the plastic push rivets holders were coming off so I hot melt 
glued them back on. Then what looks like a thin fiberglass channel thingie is 
also hot melt glued to the door panel and that is all come apart.  that fits 
over the snap thingies at the top of the door below the window to hold the top 
of the panel in place. I gotta glue that back up when I find some rivet 
thingies. 

I can’t believe how cheaply built this thing is.   Cheap plastic and hot melt 
glue. I guess being used to the 123 and 126 this thing represents a new 
generation of “progress.”

I had the charger on the battery and decided to fire it up, it actually started 
pretty well today at 52F. It runs a bit rough every few seconds and acts like 
it is “missing” like a gasser with a bad ignition. When it’s not doing that it 
is fairly smooth. I took it out on the road and it was Not Happy, belching 
smoke like an old coal locomotive. Didn’t want to shift right either. It did 
that before, I think this is related to the EGR and GP codes it is throwing. 
After fixing the steering rack bushings it is pretty tight and handles well, 
there were some rattles and clunks in the back I’ll have to chase down. Heat 
and radio were working fine after I put in the radio code which I guess went 
away when the battery got low. 

Anywhere to find a maintenance manual for this thing to figure out the GP and 
EGR issues and how to replace them ( or even where they are?). EGR is spendy so 
I might do the GPs first and see about cleaning the EGR or something before 
buying one. I know someone before said the GPs were Not Fun. (I am being lazy 
and not investigating myself, figured y’all could set me right)

Hope y’all had some wrenching time today. Gonna get colder here the next few 
days BAH!

--R
Sent from iPhone
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