Re: [MBZ] Bouncy speedo needle and wonky cruise in the 300TE

2008-03-19 Thread Jim Cathey
> Looks like I had a win here...

Congratulations!

> However to do this I would recommend a good soldering iron and a bit of
> soldering experience, someone doing this as their first soldering job
> with a cheap iron is asking for trouble.

Worth repeating.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Bouncy speedo needle and wonky cruise in the 300TE

2008-03-18 Thread Hendrik & Fay
Looks like I had a win here, finally got around to stripping the coating 
off and doing a bit of soldering.
Big thanks to Jim and others who gave advice, it was spot on.
It took two coatings of paint stripper (I found a citrus based one at my 
local paint place) and used a round wire brush mounted in my big drill 
at very slow speed. Attached the drill to a workbench and then carefully 
went over the board till it was all clean.
I do know how to solder pretty well and managed to get it going first pass.
However to do this I would recommend a good soldering iron and a bit of 
soldering experience, someone doing this as their first soldering job 
with a cheap iron is asking for trouble.
Good lighting and turning the board to get best access to the solder 
joints is also essential, some of the solders are very close together.
I also found some of the tails of the electrical bits where bent over 
and a bit long, pays to straighten them out and chop a bit off.

Hendrik
now cruising

Jim Cathey wrote:
>> I just want to know how the speedo and hall sensor interact, is it via 
>> a
>> magnet or electrical connection?
>> 
>
> I don't think it's a Hall sensor, I think it's another VR sensor
> that's just mounted on the rear of the speedometer (for cable-driven
> ones), or a straight electrical tap for electronic speedos.  Not
> sure what your TE has.  126 is all electrical, 107 switched in
> mid production, 201 and 123 are mechanical, not sure where 124
> sits in all that.  Anything newer and you're talking to the wrong
> guy.
>
>   
>> I followed the test procedures as laid out here
>> http://gdl-online.com/testproc.html and all seemed fine, that is why I
>> thought it might be the amplifier.
>> 
>
> It usually is, but it's nice to be sure before dropping hundreds
> on a replacement amplifier!  I've had a few bad stalk switches
> too.  Never a bad servo yet, though poor electrical or mechanical
> connections have been noted.
>
>   
>> I soldered some of the connections on
>> the amp but most of the amp is covered in some sort of anti corrosion
>> coating which makes soldering impossible just about.
>> Is there a safe way to remove that stuff without killing the circuit 
>> board?
>> 
>
> Paint stripper.  And it's crucial that you do so if you actually
> want the thing to work right afterwards.  I use a methylene-chloride
> free stripper.  You also need to be able to solder _well_, all it
> takes is one bad connection or solder bridge to keep it from working.
> I use a fine wire brush (Dremel) to buff the stripped board, removing
> a great deal of oxidation before beginning soldering.  It helps.
> Even so it often takes more than one pass over the board to get
> it working again.
>
> -- Jim
>
>   

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Re: [MBZ] Bouncy speedo needle and wonky cruise in the 300TE

2008-02-28 Thread Jim Cathey
> I did undo the speedo cable to test the hall sensor resistance

It's not a Hall-effect sensor.  Those are more expensive and
less reliable than a variable-reluctance sensor in any situation
where a VR sensor will work.  And you can't test them with an
ohmmeter.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Bouncy speedo needle and wonky cruise in the 300TE

2008-02-28 Thread Hendrik & Fay
Yeah but the thing that has me stumped is that it only did it that one 
time. Usually if a MB speedo develops bouncing needle syndrome it is a 
fairly regular event, usually infrequent at the start and gets worse 
until it is a permanent feature of the car.
Perhaps there is a wonky earth, the hall sensor gets power from no 5 
fuse and earthes at the W1 ground behind the cluster.
I did undo the speedo cable to test the hall sensor resistance and then 
put it all back together but then I drove 20K's to a wrecker and it was 
fine, it was on the way back that the needle started to fluctuate and 
hasn't done so since.
If the speedo cable is borderline, perhaps the hall sensor firing up 
affected it enough to make it bounce. Apparently the hall sensor works 
on magnetic pulses, so as the speedo turns the magnet affected it and 
made it bounce.

Hendrik
with loads of theories and none are yet proven fact

Peter Frederick wrote:
> Bad hall effect pickup, maybe.  The bouncing needle, actually, is  
> probably a bad bushing -- I'm going to have to send my speedo off for  
> repair, the more accurate one squeals and bounces, the odo doesn't  
> work in the other one.
>
> Peter
>
>
> ___
>
>
>   

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Re: [MBZ] Bouncy speedo needle and wonky cruise in the 300TE

2008-02-28 Thread Peter Frederick
Bad hall effect pickup, maybe.  The bouncing needle, actually, is  
probably a bad bushing -- I'm going to have to send my speedo off for  
repair, the more accurate one squeals and bounces, the odo doesn't  
work in the other one.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Bouncy speedo needle and wonky cruise in the 300TE

2008-02-28 Thread Jim Cathey
> http://gdl-online.com/testproc.html and all seemed fine

See also:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/JSLcruise.html
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/cwcruise.html
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/SL2log.html#cruise
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mamerepairs.html

Plenty of cruise info scattered in there.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Bouncy speedo needle and wonky cruise in the 300TE

2008-02-28 Thread Jim Cathey
> I just want to know how the speedo and hall sensor interact, is it via 
> a
> magnet or electrical connection?

I don't think it's a Hall sensor, I think it's another VR sensor
that's just mounted on the rear of the speedometer (for cable-driven
ones), or a straight electrical tap for electronic speedos.  Not
sure what your TE has.  126 is all electrical, 107 switched in
mid production, 201 and 123 are mechanical, not sure where 124
sits in all that.  Anything newer and you're talking to the wrong
guy.

> I followed the test procedures as laid out here
> http://gdl-online.com/testproc.html and all seemed fine, that is why I
> thought it might be the amplifier.

It usually is, but it's nice to be sure before dropping hundreds
on a replacement amplifier!  I've had a few bad stalk switches
too.  Never a bad servo yet, though poor electrical or mechanical
connections have been noted.

> I soldered some of the connections on
> the amp but most of the amp is covered in some sort of anti corrosion
> coating which makes soldering impossible just about.
> Is there a safe way to remove that stuff without killing the circuit 
> board?

Paint stripper.  And it's crucial that you do so if you actually
want the thing to work right afterwards.  I use a methylene-chloride
free stripper.  You also need to be able to solder _well_, all it
takes is one bad connection or solder bridge to keep it from working.
I use a fine wire brush (Dremel) to buff the stripped board, removing
a great deal of oxidation before beginning soldering.  It helps.
Even so it often takes more than one pass over the board to get
it working again.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Bouncy speedo needle and wonky cruise in the 300TE

2008-02-28 Thread Hendrik & Fay
Just a bit too much coincidence for my liking, this is the first and 
only time that the needle bounced in that car and the first and only 
time that the cruise even remotely worked.
I just want to know how the speedo and hall sensor interact, is it via a 
magnet or electrical connection? I found a picture of the sensor on 
Rusty's flog a part website and it doesn't really show much but it would 
appear the the sensor is not the most expensive part of the set up. 
Might try and see if I can get one out of a wreck for a few dollars and 
see what I can see. Might go to a self service wrecker and pull a 
instrument cluster apart to see how it all works.
I followed the test procedures as laid out here 
http://gdl-online.com/testproc.html and all seemed fine, that is why I 
thought it might be the amplifier. I soldered some of the connections on 
the amp but most of the amp is covered in some sort of anti corrosion 
coating which makes soldering impossible just about.
Is there a safe way to remove that stuff without killing the circuit board?
Anyway that ABS light is coming on again, which takes precedence over 
luxury items.

Hendrik
who likes the smoothness of the 124 but hates the electrics

Jim Cathey wrote:
>> how does the speed sensor interact with the
>> speedo and why would it cause needle bounce.
>> 
>
> I don't think the effect is causal.  Coincidence?
>
> -- Jim
>
>   

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Re: [MBZ] Bouncy speedo needle and wonky cruise in the 300TE

2008-02-27 Thread Jim Cathey
> how does the speed sensor interact with the
> speedo and why would it cause needle bounce.

I don't think the effect is causal.  Coincidence?

-- Jim


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[MBZ] Bouncy speedo needle and wonky cruise in the 300TE

2008-02-27 Thread Hendrik & Fay
Here is something odd, yesterday after visiting a wreckers to try and 
find a cruise amplifier the needle on the speedo started bouncing 
around, just so happened I switched the cruise on and low and behold 
there was action. Not very good action but life nonetheless.
I know that the cruise gets it's road speed from the sensor on the back 
of the instrument panel but how does the speed sensor interact with the 
speedo and why would it cause needle bounce.
This morning the needle was steady as a rock and no cruise, very strange.

Hendrik
and his haunted TE

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