[MBZ] Clutch failure
Hello all, Today while driving, the clutch on my '82 240D failed.. probably more correct, some part of the hydraulics failed. I depressed the pedal to put the car in gear, and the pedal (which worked fine a moment before, when i took it out of gear at a red light) went down easily and didnt not come back up, and the clutch remained engaged. the brakes still work fine, and i didn't see any leaks or marks of a sudden loss of fluid. I pushed the car to a parking meter and continued on my way, a couple hours later it of course remained in this state. I found someone having a similar trouble int eh archives but didn't see any further discussion about it. Has anyone experienced something like this? What ended up being the problem? Gregg aka Isildur '82 240D 258 kmi
[MBZ] Clutch failure
Gregg, Catching up on digest - forgive if repeating info. I recently replaced the master clutch cylinder to repair a similar casualty. Remember, there is a slave cylinder at the other end of the pipe, that translates the pressure from the master cylinder into motion to move the through-out bearing. A slave cylinder failure could also be the culprit. Diagnose by visually examining both cylinders; the bad one will probably be the one leaking brake fluid. If you change out the master cylinder, I recommend you don't loosen the nut on the rod at the top of the cylinder, as this changes the clutch/pedal engagment point relationship. Only loosen/remove the two nut/bolts that hold the cylinder in place, and the feed line (push-in connection) and the pressure pipe that goes to the slave cylinder. HTH. Very respectfully, /s/ LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR Digest Lurker since 2001 '85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd) '96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd) '73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification' Charleston SC
Re: [MBZ] Clutch failure
Sounds like a bad slave cylinder to me. Jeff Zedic Toronto 87 300TD 83 300D
Re: [MBZ] Clutch failure
I second Jeff's opinion. Ken - Original Message - From: "Jeff Zedic" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 2:22 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch failure > Sounds like a bad slave cylinder to me. > > > Jeff Zedic > Toronto > 87 300TD > 83 300D > > ___ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >
Re: [MBZ] Clutch failure
In a message dated 7/31/2005 10:31:07 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hello all, Today while driving, the clutch on my '82 240D failed.. probably more correct, some part of the hydraulics failed. I depressed the pedal to put the car in gear, and the pedal (which worked fine a moment before, when i took it out of gear at a red light) went down easily and didnt not come back up, and the clutch remained engaged. the brakes still work fine, and i didn't see any leaks or marks of a sudden loss of fluid. I pushed the car to a parking meter and continued on my way, a couple hours later it of course remained in this state. I found someone having a similar trouble int eh archives but didn't see any further discussion about it. Has anyone experienced something like this? What ended up being the problem? Greg, Did you check the brake fluid level? It MUST be above the side connection, on the reservoir, where the clutch takes it's supply from the master cylinder. The clutch will not work with air in the fluid line, the pedal will go to the floor and stay there. Fill the brake fluid reservoir to the full mark and try this. Start the engine in neutral and warm it up so that it will start easily. Make sure you have a clear and safe path to move forward. Shut the engine OFF, put the car in low gear and with the clutch pedal to the floor, start the engine and drive away in low gear. Shift to 2nd by matching the engine speed if you want. At this point you must pull the clutch pedal up with your toe, it cannot refill the clutch lines unless the pedal is up. Drive a mile or two at low speeds and occasionally try the clutch to see if it's function has returned. ALWAYS pull the clutch pedal up after each test until it comes back by itself. the vibration and motion will bleed the air out of the clutch system. Once the clutch function has returned you will be able to check for brake fluid leaks. Look for fluid dripping out of the bell housing. Look under the drivers side dash and check for fluid dripping from the clutch master cylinder. You probably do have a leak at your slave cylinder, down on the side of the bell housing, and if so, the best answer is to get a new slave cylinder, install it, and repeat the above driving procedure. A new cylinder should run $30 to $40 at your local Mcparts, and they usually come with a lifetime guarantee. good luck Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 137 K miles
Re: [MBZ] Clutch failure
hello, cool, i don't know what i'm going to do with the car (it's also kinda rusty now and goes through oil at absurd rates) but a slave cyl is not too expensive.. i'm sorting out what i'm going to do about a car.. since now i don't have any running vehicles (and two 240D's off the road.. the POS from darrell that still wants about $1000 in work to pass inspection, and my til-now trusty but rusty blue car), but if replacing the cylinder ain't too bad a job i might give that a try. thanks for the tip aboutnot messing with the adjustment nut... :) gregg aka isildur On Mon, 1 Aug 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Gregg, > > Catching up on digest - forgive if repeating info. > > I recently replaced the master clutch cylinder to repair a similar casualty. > Remember, there is a slave cylinder at the other end of the pipe, that > translates the pressure from the master cylinder into motion to move the > through-out bearing. A slave cylinder failure could also be the culprit. > > Diagnose by visually examining both cylinders; the bad one will probably be > the one leaking brake fluid. > > If you change out the master cylinder, I recommend you don't loosen the nut > on the rod at the top of the cylinder, as this changes the clutch/pedal > engagment point relationship. Only loosen/remove the two nut/bolts that hold > the cylinder in place, and the feed line (push-in connection) and the > pressure pipe that goes to the slave cylinder. > > HTH. > > Very respectfully, > /s/ > LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR > Digest Lurker since 2001 > '85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd) > '96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd) > '73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification' > Charleston SC > > > ___ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >
