Re: [MBZ] Drive shaft removal steps, 85 300TD
Well if they say gmail does not show your own posting thats probably the deal. As for the list settings, you just would log into your options page with your password and you can change all that there. The link is at the bottom of each message. Harry Watkins wrote: Kaleb I am using Gmail for the list, how do I change that setting? I have perhaps looked in the wrong place. Thanks Harry -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Drive shaft removal steps, 85 300TD
Kaleb I am using Gmail for the list, how do I change that setting? I have perhaps looked in the wrong place. Thanks Harry On 2/6/07, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: You probably have your settings set to not receive your own posts. Harry Watkins wrote: > Hi Ralph > > No, yours was the first. Don't know what I am doing wrong. This is the > second time its happened. > > Harry -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Drive shaft removal steps, 85 300TD
This is the first one I saw --- bandwidth is cheap these days - don't worry about it. On 2/5/07, Harry Watkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Thanks to Peter and others, the job was made easy. While its fresh on my mind, I'll share the steps I took. Keep in mind that this is an 85 300TD and I've no experience with other models. I have the paper manual and read the procedure before hand, however, more than one model was covered and I got a little confused. Peter's answers were not confusing and all went smoothly after his input. 1. Remove the exhaust system from the transmission to the bumper. Two bolts with nuts, ½" socket and ½" box end. Four rubber donuts, all near the bumper, I left one donut attached to hold up that end while I removed the flange connection. I used a screwdriver and a wiggle to separate the pipe. Lowered it to the floor and pushed it clear. The manual spoke of an exhaust baffle that mine did not have. I pre Kroil everything I work on but there is very little rust under this car and it probably was not needed. 2. I supported the transmission with a large piece of wood and a small floor jack, then removed the transmission rear support plate and mount. Four bolts going straight up, 11/16' socket. One nut above the rubber mount, ¾", I used a flex gear wrench. 3. Disconnect the front flex disk. I removed the three bolts (5/8" socket) and nuts (11/16' box end) that left the disk attached to the transmission. I had to rotate the drive shaft once to gain access to the third bolt. The rear wheels were on ramps with a large floor jack left under the differential. I raised the rear just enough to turn the wheels. I ended up doing this again with the rear disk, so next time I'll remove bolts front and rear, then rotate the shaft only one time to gain access. I then used a tire tool to force the shaft to the rear and clear of the transmission. 4. Remove the center bearing support bolts (two). ½" short socket with a 6" wobble extension. Both are straight up, but one side needs a little wobble to get a good fit. 5. Disconnect the parking brake equalizer mechanism. I removed the spring by inserting the tire tool in the coil as a handle and gained enough slack to remove it and the V wire anchor. Needle nose pliers were used to remove a tiny cotter key from a small pin that released the cable coming from the cab. Now there was enough slack to remove the lever and one of the brake shoe cables to let everything swing clear. 6. There is a welded plate across the shaft tunnel that keeps the shaft supported up front until you are ready to slide it out to the rear. At this point, I used bailing wire to secure the two shaft ends together so there was no chance of separation until I had it out and marked for exact rematch. 7. Remove the rear disk. Same as the front, I left the disk on the differential. I forced it forward with the tire tool, dropped it down and slid it to the rear and out. I should have left it on the shaft for easier replacement on the bench. (oh well) Hopefully there are folks that will chime in to make this easier. Harry -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK "Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit there." Will Rogers '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] Drive shaft removal steps, 85 300TD
Thanks David, what time did my original go through? I sure wasted some band width, sorry. Harry On 2/5/07, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Harry Watkins wrote: > Hi Ralph > > No, yours was the first. Don't know what I am doing wrong. This is the > second time its happened. Gmail, by default, hides your own posts from you. You'll only see responses to them. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Drive shaft removal steps, 85 300TD
Harry Watkins wrote: > Hi Ralph > > No, yours was the first. Don't know what I am doing wrong. This is the > second time its happened. Gmail, by default, hides your own posts from you. You'll only see responses to them.
Re: [MBZ] Drive shaft removal steps, 85 300TD
Hi Ralph No, yours was the first. Don't know what I am doing wrong. This is the second time its happened. Harry On 2/5/07, Ralph W <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Hey Harry this is about the fifth time it's come through to the list! Are you not seeing your posts? Ralph W. '83 300CD '82 300TD (2 parts wagons) '90 300D '01 E320 Wagon '87 300TD - Original Message - From: "Harry Watkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 9:16 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Drive shaft removal steps, 85 300TD I moved it from the "sent mail" to the inbox to try again. Harry On 2/5/07, Harry Watkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > 3rd try to run this out of my barn. > > Harry > > > On 2/5/07, Harry Watkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > Thanks to Peter and others, the job was made easy. While its fresh on my > > mind, I'll share the steps I took. Keep in mind that this is an 85 300TD > > and > > I've no experience with other models. > > > > I have the paper manual and read the procedure before hand, however, > > more than one model was covered and I got a little confused. Peter's > > answers > > were not confusing and all went smoothly after his input. > > > >1. Remove the exhaust system from the transmission to the bumper. > >Two bolts with nuts, ½" socket and ½" box end. Four rubber donuts, > > all near > >the bumper, I left one donut attached to hold up that end while I > > removed > >the flange connection. I used a screwdriver and a wiggle to separate > > the > >pipe. Lowered it to the floor and pushed it clear. The manual spoke > > of an > >exhaust baffle that mine did not have. I pre Kroil everything I work > > on but > >there is very little rust under this car and it probably was not > > needed. > >2. I supported the transmission with a large piece of wood and a > >small floor jack, then removed the transmission rear support plate > > and > >mount. Four bolts going straight up, 11/16' socket. One nut above the > > rubber > >mount, ¾", I used a flex gear wrench. > >3. Disconnect the front flex disk. I removed the three bolts (5/8" > >socket) and nuts (11/16' box end) that left the disk attached to the > >transmission. I had to rotate the drive shaft once to gain access to > > the > >third bolt. The rear wheels were on ramps with a large floor jack > > left under > >the differential. I raised the rear just enough to turn the wheels. I > > ended > >up doing this again with the rear disk, so next time I'll remove > > bolts front > >and rear, then rotate the shaft only one time to gain access. I then > > used a > >tire tool to force the shaft to the rear and clear of the > > transmission. > >4. Remove the center bearing support bolts (two). ½" short socket > >with a 6" wobble extension. Both are straight up, but one side needs > > a > >little wobble to get a good fit. > >5. Disconnect the parking brake equalizer mechanism. I removed the > >spring by inserting the tire tool in the coil as a handle and gained > > enough > >slack to remove it and the V wire anchor. Needle nose pliers were > > used to > >remove a tiny cotter key from a small pin that released the cable > > coming > >from the cab. Now there was enough slack to remove the lever and one > > of the > >brake shoe cables to let everything swing clear. > >6. There is a welded plate across the shaft tunnel that keeps the > >shaft supported up front until you are ready to slide it out to the > > rear. At > >this point, I used bailing wire to secure the two shaft ends together > > so > >there was no chance of separation until I had it out and marked for > > exact > >rematch. > >7. Remove the rear disk. Same as the front, I left the disk on the > >differential. I forced it forward with the tire tool, dropped it down > > and > >slid it to the rear and out. I should have left it on the shaft for > > easier > >replacement on the bench. (oh well) > > > > Hopefully there are folks that will chime in to make this easier. > > > > Harry > > > > > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Drive shaft removal steps, 85 300TD
Hey Harry this is about the fifth time it's come through to the list! Are you not seeing your posts? Ralph W. '83 300CD '82 300TD (2 parts wagons) '90 300D '01 E320 Wagon '87 300TD - Original Message - From: "Harry Watkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 9:16 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Drive shaft removal steps, 85 300TD I moved it from the "sent mail" to the inbox to try again. Harry On 2/5/07, Harry Watkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 3rd try to run this out of my barn. Harry On 2/5/07, Harry Watkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Thanks to Peter and others, the job was made easy. While its fresh on my > mind, I'll share the steps I took. Keep in mind that this is an 85 300TD > and > I've no experience with other models. > > I have the paper manual and read the procedure before hand, however, > more than one model was covered and I got a little confused. Peter's > answers > were not confusing and all went smoothly after his input. > >1. Remove the exhaust system from the transmission to the bumper. >Two bolts with nuts, ½" socket and ½" box end. Four rubber donuts, > all near >the bumper, I left one donut attached to hold up that end while I > removed >the flange connection. I used a screwdriver and a wiggle to separate > the >pipe. Lowered it to the floor and pushed it clear. The manual spoke > of an >exhaust baffle that mine did not have. I pre Kroil everything I work > on but >there is very little rust under this car and it probably was not > needed. >2. I supported the transmission with a large piece of wood and a >small floor jack, then removed the transmission rear support plate > and >mount. Four bolts going straight up, 11/16' socket. One nut above the > rubber >mount, ¾", I used a flex gear wrench. >3. Disconnect the front flex disk. I removed the three bolts (5/8" >socket) and nuts (11/16' box end) that left the disk attached to the >transmission. I had to rotate the drive shaft once to gain access to > the >third bolt. The rear wheels were on ramps with a large floor jack > left under >the differential. I raised the rear just enough to turn the wheels. I > ended >up doing this again with the rear disk, so next time I'll remove > bolts front >and rear, then rotate the shaft only one time to gain access. I then > used a >tire tool to force the shaft to the rear and clear of the > transmission. >4. Remove the center bearing support bolts (two). ½" short socket >with a 6" wobble extension. Both are straight up, but one side needs > a >little wobble to get a good fit. >5. Disconnect the parking brake equalizer mechanism. I removed the >spring by inserting the tire tool in the coil as a handle and gained > enough >slack to remove it and the V wire anchor. Needle nose pliers were > used to >remove a tiny cotter key from a small pin that released the cable > coming >from the cab. Now there was enough slack to remove the lever and one > of the >brake shoe cables to let everything swing clear. >6. There is a welded plate across the shaft tunnel that keeps the >shaft supported up front until you are ready to slide it out to the > rear. At >this point, I used bailing wire to secure the two shaft ends together > so >there was no chance of separation until I had it out and marked for > exact >rematch. >7. Remove the rear disk. Same as the front, I left the disk on the >differential. I forced it forward with the tire tool, dropped it down > and >slid it to the rear and out. I should have left it on the shaft for > easier >replacement on the bench. (oh well) > > Hopefully there are folks that will chime in to make this easier. > > Harry > > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Drive shaft removal steps, 85 300TD
I moved it from the "sent mail" to the inbox to try again. Harry On 2/5/07, Harry Watkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 3rd try to run this out of my barn. Harry On 2/5/07, Harry Watkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Thanks to Peter and others, the job was made easy. While its fresh on my > mind, I'll share the steps I took. Keep in mind that this is an 85 300TD and > I've no experience with other models. > > I have the paper manual and read the procedure before hand, however, > more than one model was covered and I got a little confused. Peter's answers > were not confusing and all went smoothly after his input. > >1. Remove the exhaust system from the transmission to the bumper. >Two bolts with nuts, ½" socket and ½" box end. Four rubber donuts, all near >the bumper, I left one donut attached to hold up that end while I removed >the flange connection. I used a screwdriver and a wiggle to separate the >pipe. Lowered it to the floor and pushed it clear. The manual spoke of an >exhaust baffle that mine did not have. I pre Kroil everything I work on but >there is very little rust under this car and it probably was not needed. >2. I supported the transmission with a large piece of wood and a >small floor jack, then removed the transmission rear support plate and >mount. Four bolts going straight up, 11/16' socket. One nut above the rubber >mount, ¾", I used a flex gear wrench. >3. Disconnect the front flex disk. I removed the three bolts (5/8" >socket) and nuts (11/16' box end) that left the disk attached to the >transmission. I had to rotate the drive shaft once to gain access to the >third bolt. The rear wheels were on ramps with a large floor jack left under >the differential. I raised the rear just enough to turn the wheels. I ended >up doing this again with the rear disk, so next time I'll remove bolts front >and rear, then rotate the shaft only one time to gain access. I then used a >tire tool to force the shaft to the rear and clear of the transmission. >4. Remove the center bearing support bolts (two). ½" short socket >with a 6" wobble extension. Both are straight up, but one side needs a >little wobble to get a good fit. >5. Disconnect the parking brake equalizer mechanism. I removed the >spring by inserting the tire tool in the coil as a handle and gained enough >slack to remove it and the V wire anchor. Needle nose pliers were used to >remove a tiny cotter key from a small pin that released the cable coming >from the cab. Now there was enough slack to remove the lever and one of the >brake shoe cables to let everything swing clear. >6. There is a welded plate across the shaft tunnel that keeps the >shaft supported up front until you are ready to slide it out to the rear. At >this point, I used bailing wire to secure the two shaft ends together so >there was no chance of separation until I had it out and marked for exact >rematch. >7. Remove the rear disk. Same as the front, I left the disk on the >differential. I forced it forward with the tire tool, dropped it down and >slid it to the rear and out. I should have left it on the shaft for easier >replacement on the bench. (oh well) > > Hopefully there are folks that will chime in to make this easier. > > Harry > >
Re: [MBZ] Drive shaft removal steps, 85 300TD
3rd try to run this out of my barn. Harry On 2/5/07, Harry Watkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Thanks to Peter and others, the job was made easy. While its fresh on my mind, I'll share the steps I took. Keep in mind that this is an 85 300TD and I've no experience with other models. I have the paper manual and read the procedure before hand, however, more than one model was covered and I got a little confused. Peter's answers were not confusing and all went smoothly after his input. 1. Remove the exhaust system from the transmission to the bumper. Two bolts with nuts, ½" socket and ½" box end. Four rubber donuts, all near the bumper, I left one donut attached to hold up that end while I removed the flange connection. I used a screwdriver and a wiggle to separate the pipe. Lowered it to the floor and pushed it clear. The manual spoke of an exhaust baffle that mine did not have. I pre Kroil everything I work on but there is very little rust under this car and it probably was not needed. 2. I supported the transmission with a large piece of wood and a small floor jack, then removed the transmission rear support plate and mount. Four bolts going straight up, 11/16' socket. One nut above the rubber mount, ¾", I used a flex gear wrench. 3. Disconnect the front flex disk. I removed the three bolts (5/8" socket) and nuts (11/16' box end) that left the disk attached to the transmission. I had to rotate the drive shaft once to gain access to the third bolt. The rear wheels were on ramps with a large floor jack left under the differential. I raised the rear just enough to turn the wheels. I ended up doing this again with the rear disk, so next time I'll remove bolts front and rear, then rotate the shaft only one time to gain access. I then used a tire tool to force the shaft to the rear and clear of the transmission. 4. Remove the center bearing support bolts (two). ½" short socket with a 6" wobble extension. Both are straight up, but one side needs a little wobble to get a good fit. 5. Disconnect the parking brake equalizer mechanism. I removed the spring by inserting the tire tool in the coil as a handle and gained enough slack to remove it and the V wire anchor. Needle nose pliers were used to remove a tiny cotter key from a small pin that released the cable coming from the cab. Now there was enough slack to remove the lever and one of the brake shoe cables to let everything swing clear. 6. There is a welded plate across the shaft tunnel that keeps the shaft supported up front until you are ready to slide it out to the rear. At this point, I used bailing wire to secure the two shaft ends together so there was no chance of separation until I had it out and marked for exact rematch. 7. Remove the rear disk. Same as the front, I left the disk on the differential. I forced it forward with the tire tool, dropped it down and slid it to the rear and out. I should have left it on the shaft for easier replacement on the bench. (oh well) Hopefully there are folks that will chime in to make this easier. Harry
Re: [MBZ] Drive shaft removal steps, 85 300TD
Send again On 2/5/07, Harry Watkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Thanks to Peter and others, the job was made easy. While its fresh on my mind, I'll share the steps I took. Keep in mind that this is an 85 300TD and I've no experience with other models. I have the paper manual and read the procedure before hand, however, more than one model was covered and I got a little confused. Peter's answers were not confusing and all went smoothly after his input. 1. Remove the exhaust system from the transmission to the bumper. Two bolts with nuts, ½" socket and ½" box end. Four rubber donuts, all near the bumper, I left one donut attached to hold up that end while I removed the flange connection. I used a screwdriver and a wiggle to separate the pipe. Lowered it to the floor and pushed it clear. The manual spoke of an exhaust baffle that mine did not have. I pre Kroil everything I work on but there is very little rust under this car and it probably was not needed. 2. I supported the transmission with a large piece of wood and a small floor jack, then removed the transmission rear support plate and mount. Four bolts going straight up, 11/16' socket. One nut above the rubber mount, ¾", I used a flex gear wrench. 3. Disconnect the front flex disk. I removed the three bolts (5/8" socket) and nuts (11/16' box end) that left the disk attached to the transmission. I had to rotate the drive shaft once to gain access to the third bolt. The rear wheels were on ramps with a large floor jack left under the differential. I raised the rear just enough to turn the wheels. I ended up doing this again with the rear disk, so next time I'll remove bolts front and rear, then rotate the shaft only one time to gain access. I then used a tire tool to force the shaft to the rear and clear of the transmission. 4. Remove the center bearing support bolts (two). ½" short socket with a 6" wobble extension. Both are straight up, but one side needs a little wobble to get a good fit. 5. Disconnect the parking brake equalizer mechanism. I removed the spring by inserting the tire tool in the coil as a handle and gained enough slack to remove it and the V wire anchor. Needle nose pliers were used to remove a tiny cotter key from a small pin that released the cable coming from the cab. Now there was enough slack to remove the lever and one of the brake shoe cables to let everything swing clear. 6. There is a welded plate across the shaft tunnel that keeps the shaft supported up front until you are ready to slide it out to the rear. At this point, I used bailing wire to secure the two shaft ends together so there was no chance of separation until I had it out and marked for exact rematch. 7. Remove the rear disk. Same as the front, I left the disk on the differential. I forced it forward with the tire tool, dropped it down and slid it to the rear and out. I should have left it on the shaft for easier replacement on the bench. (oh well) Hopefully there are folks that will chime in to make this easier. Harry
[MBZ] Drive shaft removal steps, 85 300TD
Thanks to Peter and others, the job was made easy. While its fresh on my mind, I'll share the steps I took. Keep in mind that this is an 85 300TD and I've no experience with other models. I have the paper manual and read the procedure before hand, however, more than one model was covered and I got a little confused. Peter's answers were not confusing and all went smoothly after his input. 1. Remove the exhaust system from the transmission to the bumper. Two bolts with nuts, ½" socket and ½" box end. Four rubber donuts, all near the bumper, I left one donut attached to hold up that end while I removed the flange connection. I used a screwdriver and a wiggle to separate the pipe. Lowered it to the floor and pushed it clear. The manual spoke of an exhaust baffle that mine did not have. I pre Kroil everything I work on but there is very little rust under this car and it probably was not needed. 2. I supported the transmission with a large piece of wood and a small floor jack, then removed the transmission rear support plate and mount. Four bolts going straight up, 11/16' socket. One nut above the rubber mount, ¾", I used a flex gear wrench. 3. Disconnect the front flex disk. I removed the three bolts (5/8" socket) and nuts (11/16' box end) that left the disk attached to the transmission. I had to rotate the drive shaft once to gain access to the third bolt. The rear wheels were on ramps with a large floor jack left under the differential. I raised the rear just enough to turn the wheels. I ended up doing this again with the rear disk, so next time I'll remove bolts front and rear, then rotate the shaft only one time to gain access. I then used a tire tool to force the shaft to the rear and clear of the transmission. 4. Remove the center bearing support bolts (two). ½" short socket with a 6" wobble extension. Both are straight up, but one side needs a little wobble to get a good fit. 5. Disconnect the parking brake equalizer mechanism. I removed the spring by inserting the tire tool in the coil as a handle and gained enough slack to remove it and the V wire anchor. Needle nose pliers were used to remove a tiny cotter key from a small pin that released the cable coming from the cab. Now there was enough slack to remove the lever and one of the brake shoe cables to let everything swing clear. 6. There is a welded plate across the shaft tunnel that keeps the shaft supported up front until you are ready to slide it out to the rear. At this point, I used bailing wire to secure the two shaft ends together so there was no chance of separation until I had it out and marked for exact rematch. 7. Remove the rear disk. Same as the front, I left the disk on the differential. I forced it forward with the tire tool, dropped it down and slid it to the rear and out. I should have left it on the shaft for easier replacement on the bench. (oh well) Hopefully there are folks that will chime in to make this easier. Harry
