[MBZ] OT: 1995 manual tranny Nissan Maxima

2007-09-14 Thread Limon276
My girlfriend ran low on clutch fluid on her 1995 Nissan Maxima, and  looks 
like air got sucked in. Anyone have any suggestions on how to bleed the  air 
out of the clutch?



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Re: [MBZ] OT: 1995 manual tranny Nissan Maxima

2007-09-15 Thread Scott Ritchey
Probably a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder ... just like brakes.  But my
last Datsun was 1973.

Scott Ritchey

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Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 11:13 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] OT: 1995 manual tranny Nissan Maxima

My girlfriend ran low on clutch fluid on her 1995 Nissan Maxima, and  looks 
like air got sucked in. Anyone have any suggestions on how to bleed the  air

out of the clutch?



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Re: [MBZ] OT: 1995 manual tranny Nissan Maxima

2007-09-15 Thread Mitch Haley


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> My girlfriend ran low on clutch fluid on her 1995 Nissan Maxima, and  looks
> like air got sucked in. Anyone have any suggestions on how to bleed the  air
> out of the clutch?

If the slave cylinder is external to the tranny, it should be easy to
get at the bleed screw. Might get interesting if the cylinder is inside
the bell housing. If it ran dry, you'll probably be paying for a new
master or slave cylinder soon anyway. The fluid had to leak out somewhere.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 1995 manual tranny Nissan Maxima/ bleeding

2007-09-15 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 9/15/2007 1:10:45 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

My  girlfriend ran low on clutch fluid on her 1995 Nissan Maxima, and  looks  
like air got sucked in. Anyone have any suggestions on how to bleed  the  air 
out of the clutch?



As someone mentioned, it is very likely that something in the clutch  circuit 
is leaking.  Non the less, they will often bleed themselves if you  can find 
a way to drive it a mile or so with out the clutch.  Make sure the  clutch 
pedal is up (you can hook it up with your toe)  when you are driving  as the 
oil 
port will be blocked if the pedal is left down.  
 
Procedure:  warm the engine in neutral to facilitate an in gear  start.  
Point the car in a safe direction and then push the pedal down to  defeat the 
interlock and start the car.  It will immediately begin moving  so make sure 
all 
is clear.  Once underway, you can leave it in low or shift  up if you are good 
at matching speeds.  as you are driving, occasionally  push the pedal down to 
see if any progress was made.  The pedal will stay  down if not bled yet, just 
hook it back up and drive some more.  Shortly,  the pedal will return up by 
spring force, indicating the air is out, and you can  shift normally.
 
When you return, look for dripping brake fluid under the car, or possibly  in 
the foot well on the driver's side, from the brake master  cylinder.
 
Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 151 K  miles



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