Re: [MBZ] OT electric motor capacitors
That's what I would do - go with the larger cap and not worry about the cover. On Tue, Oct 1, 2019 at 10:30 AM Randy Bennell via Mercedes < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > > I am starting to think that there is no real > reason why I need to do that. I can seal the opening where the wires go > into the motor housing with a bit of silicon caulking and shrink wrap > the connections to the capacitor. The housing protected the capacitor > from impact damage and prevented careless folks from touching the > contacts but since the motor is normally inaccessible unless one > deliberately opens the hatch, I doubt that the protective bump is truly > necessary. I can pretty readily strap the capacitor to the motor housing. > > Anyone think that is a bad idea? If so, why? > > Randy > -- OK Don "Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect." Mark Twain "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers* 2013 F150, 18 mpg 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT electric motor capacitors
buy the physically bigger cap and stop by a local motor shop. Ask them if you can pick through their pile of scrap to find a cover that will fit. If no luck there, fasten it to the motor and hook up the wires. Use shrink insulation and seal the motor as you planned. I've seen worse in the real world. Sometimes the cap just is left dangling by the wires. It is quite possible the mfgr shaved insulation inside the old cap to make it smaller. Assuming the larger one has more insulation, it should last longer. Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote on 10/1/19 10:29 AM: Way off topic here but some of you folks appear to know much more about various things than I do, so I am going to tell you a story and seek advice. Sunday afternoon, I was ripping some 5/8 plywood when my table saw started to smell like melted plastic. I cannot say I heard anything unusual but with the dust collector howling and ear muffs on, I likely wouldn't. The saw is a 10" Delta hybrid or whatever they called them. It has a cabinet that goes to the floor but is not the Unisaw. The motor is inside the cabinet so one must use a dust collector or plan on killing the motor as it is not totally sealed. It is a Chinese made saw and motor - probably 10 to 15 years old. Old enough that it predates Delta's demise and rebirth in recent years but not old enough to be made in North America. I shut the saw down and opened the side hatch. The motor is 1 3/4 HP and has 2 housings for capacitors. A longer and a shorter. The longer one felt fine and the shorter one felt hot. Based upon my internet research, it appears that the shorter one is the run capacitor and the longer one is the start capacitor. After supper, I removed the motor, which is a miserable job. The motor is heavy and the bracket is spring loaded to hold it down to keep tension on the drive belt. My primary concern was not so much getting it out but trying to set myself up so it would be easier to put it back in. I had some pieces of 1 1/2 blue foam insulation and I used those to block the motor up. I think I will be able to get the motor back against the bracket and get a couple of bolts started when I put it back. Once I pulled it out and removed the housing over the shorter capacitor it was obvious that the capacitor had burned out. The plastic cap over the end was melted along with the wires. So, at a minimum, I need a capacitor. It is 35 MFD 250V so nothing too odd. My problem has been that it is not easy to find one small enough to fit back under the housing. There are lots of them available but they mostly are larger. I have tracked down what appears to be the right one but I have only found it available by ordering it from China. Unless I want to spring for expensive shipping it may take a couple of weeks or more to get it. My initial thought was that I needed to find one that would permit me to put it back inside the metal cover - mostly because it operates in a dusty environment and I want to keep the motor sealed as much as it was intended to be. However, I am starting to think that there is no real reason why I need to do that. I can seal the opening where the wires go into the motor housing with a bit of silicon caulking and shrink wrap the connections to the capacitor. The housing protected the capacitor from impact damage and prevented careless folks from touching the contacts but since the motor is normally inaccessible unless one deliberately opens the hatch, I doubt that the protective bump is truly necessary. I can pretty readily strap the capacitor to the motor housing. Anyone think that is a bad idea? If so, why? Randy ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT electric motor capacitors
That will be OK, cut a plastic bottle or something and tape it over the cap to cover it and keep from getting zapped/dusty/etc. Can you find the part on Delta site or parts catalog? There are some sites that have parts for older woodworking equipment too if you want to try find something similar, but any matching type cap should work. --FT On 10/1/19 11:29 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote: Way off topic here but some of you folks appear to know much more about various things than I do, so I am going to tell you a story and seek advice. Sunday afternoon, I was ripping some 5/8 plywood when my table saw started to smell like melted plastic. I cannot say I heard anything unusual but with the dust collector howling and ear muffs on, I likely wouldn't. The saw is a 10" Delta hybrid or whatever they called them. It has a cabinet that goes to the floor but is not the Unisaw. The motor is inside the cabinet so one must use a dust collector or plan on killing the motor as it is not totally sealed. It is a Chinese made saw and motor - probably 10 to 15 years old. Old enough that it predates Delta's demise and rebirth in recent years but not old enough to be made in North America. I shut the saw down and opened the side hatch. The motor is 1 3/4 HP and has 2 housings for capacitors. A longer and a shorter. The longer one felt fine and the shorter one felt hot. Based upon my internet research, it appears that the shorter one is the run capacitor and the longer one is the start capacitor. After supper, I removed the motor, which is a miserable job. The motor is heavy and the bracket is spring loaded to hold it down to keep tension on the drive belt. My primary concern was not so much getting it out but trying to set myself up so it would be easier to put it back in. I had some pieces of 1 1/2 blue foam insulation and I used those to block the motor up. I think I will be able to get the motor back against the bracket and get a couple of bolts started when I put it back. Once I pulled it out and removed the housing over the shorter capacitor it was obvious that the capacitor had burned out. The plastic cap over the end was melted along with the wires. So, at a minimum, I need a capacitor. It is 35 MFD 250V so nothing too odd. My problem has been that it is not easy to find one small enough to fit back under the housing. There are lots of them available but they mostly are larger. I have tracked down what appears to be the right one but I have only found it available by ordering it from China. Unless I want to spring for expensive shipping it may take a couple of weeks or more to get it. My initial thought was that I needed to find one that would permit me to put it back inside the metal cover - mostly because it operates in a dusty environment and I want to keep the motor sealed as much as it was intended to be. However, I am starting to think that there is no real reason why I need to do that. I can seal the opening where the wires go into the motor housing with a bit of silicon caulking and shrink wrap the connections to the capacitor. The housing protected the capacitor from impact damage and prevented careless folks from touching the contacts but since the motor is normally inaccessible unless one deliberately opens the hatch, I doubt that the protective bump is truly necessary. I can pretty readily strap the capacitor to the motor housing. Anyone think that is a bad idea? If so, why? Randy ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- --FT ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] OT electric motor capacitors
Way off topic here but some of you folks appear to know much more about various things than I do, so I am going to tell you a story and seek advice. Sunday afternoon, I was ripping some 5/8 plywood when my table saw started to smell like melted plastic. I cannot say I heard anything unusual but with the dust collector howling and ear muffs on, I likely wouldn't. The saw is a 10" Delta hybrid or whatever they called them. It has a cabinet that goes to the floor but is not the Unisaw. The motor is inside the cabinet so one must use a dust collector or plan on killing the motor as it is not totally sealed. It is a Chinese made saw and motor - probably 10 to 15 years old. Old enough that it predates Delta's demise and rebirth in recent years but not old enough to be made in North America. I shut the saw down and opened the side hatch. The motor is 1 3/4 HP and has 2 housings for capacitors. A longer and a shorter. The longer one felt fine and the shorter one felt hot. Based upon my internet research, it appears that the shorter one is the run capacitor and the longer one is the start capacitor. After supper, I removed the motor, which is a miserable job. The motor is heavy and the bracket is spring loaded to hold it down to keep tension on the drive belt. My primary concern was not so much getting it out but trying to set myself up so it would be easier to put it back in. I had some pieces of 1 1/2 blue foam insulation and I used those to block the motor up. I think I will be able to get the motor back against the bracket and get a couple of bolts started when I put it back. Once I pulled it out and removed the housing over the shorter capacitor it was obvious that the capacitor had burned out. The plastic cap over the end was melted along with the wires. So, at a minimum, I need a capacitor. It is 35 MFD 250V so nothing too odd. My problem has been that it is not easy to find one small enough to fit back under the housing. There are lots of them available but they mostly are larger. I have tracked down what appears to be the right one but I have only found it available by ordering it from China. Unless I want to spring for expensive shipping it may take a couple of weeks or more to get it. My initial thought was that I needed to find one that would permit me to put it back inside the metal cover - mostly because it operates in a dusty environment and I want to keep the motor sealed as much as it was intended to be. However, I am starting to think that there is no real reason why I need to do that. I can seal the opening where the wires go into the motor housing with a bit of silicon caulking and shrink wrap the connections to the capacitor. The housing protected the capacitor from impact damage and prevented careless folks from touching the contacts but since the motor is normally inaccessible unless one deliberately opens the hatch, I doubt that the protective bump is truly necessary. I can pretty readily strap the capacitor to the motor housing. Anyone think that is a bad idea? If so, why? Randy ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
