Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep
Two quotes below. Re: soil swelling. I wouldn't expect the "swelling" to last long, only as long as the water stays in the location you need the swelling. Then, due to the soil type, the soil may compact *more* than it was before, compounding your issue. Be very careful with adding water to the situation! Re: engineer consultant, do this ASAP! Luther KB5QHUForest Park, IL '98 ML320 "Max" (171,xxx mi) On 9/16/2013 11:10 AM, Randy Bennell wrote: I am curious as to whether there is any hope of the soil swelling enough to raise us back up a bit. I would be reluctant to spend the money necessary to level the house and then have it go the other way and rise above where it belongs. I would need to consult an engineer to see if that was a good idea or if my fears of the house lifting again in a wet period might have an legitimacy. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep
The main part of the house was built in 1981. It sits on a full basement with footings and a poured concrete wall on top of the footings. The house has not moved all that much. The addition built in 1987 is the issue. It sits on piles - mostly bell piles and a couple of straight piles that go a bit deeper due to water infiltration when the piles were being drilled and poured. They are the ones closest to the original foundation. The outer edge of the addition has settled. It did not move much for a long while but it has given us a bit of grief over the years. We have a big maple tree about 10 feet from the house on the front corner. I assume it pulls a lot of water out of the ground and that may be one of the issues. I am reluctant to remove it because I like trees and it provides a lot of shade to the house. We have often found in August that the front door begins to rub. Putting the hose out and running a lot of water has usually resolved the minimal rubbing on the door. However, we have had somewhat drier conditions in the past few years and the result is that watering has not helped this past year or two. The soil has dropped away from the front curb and there is a good 6 inches of concrete exposed at the street. I would guess that my whole yard has dropped about 6 inches. More of the foundation at the house is exposed as well. Running the water on the meter is relatively expensive but we have been watering. I am curious as to whether there is any hope of the soil swelling enough to raise us back up a bit. I would be reluctant to spend the money necessary to level the house and then have it go the other way and rise above where it belongs. The one good thing about the addition is that it could at least in theory be raised relatively easily in my opinion. There is a crawl space and the joists are not inbedded in the concrete. There are bolts holding it down. The bolts could be loosened off and one could put together a laminated beam in the crawl space and then shore it up with cribbing and lift with jacks. One would need to do so slowly in order to avoid damaging the house but it could be done over time. The stucco and sheathing on the exterior would need to be cut to permit the building to be lifted from the grade beam. Then one would need to fill the gap and repair the sheathing. I think that I would cut an opening in the floor in the den so that the crawl space would be more accessible but that would just mean replacing the floor in the den later. It would be a major pain but it could be done. I would need to consult an engineer to see if that was a good idea or if my fears of the house lifting again in a wet period might have an legitimacy. The addition is 10 feet wide and 30 feet long and 2 storeys high. There is no plumbing or significant electrical in it etc. The lower part consists of the front entry, the back entry hall, a pantry cupboard and the den in the middle. The upper level is a 4th bedroom and a small sitting room that my wife uses to watch tv. So no bathrooms, kitchens etc in that part of the house and no main electric panel etc. The AC sits on a concrete extension to the porch at the rear of the house and the lines for it run through the crawl space into the basement itself to the furnace. The only other mechanical installations are the drier vent pipe that runs accross between the joists and a cold air intake pipe that feeds into basement to provide combustion air to the furnace. So, as I said doable but a pain and it would be messy. Randy On 14/09/2013 4:59 PM, clay wrote: This seems to have been a problem for the drought struck midwest the past few years. The ground just dried out and houses start to get wonky. I read something about how ungood it was, but since there was no water to spare, no good solution. That said, I would expect you to be able to either soak your foundation area about three foot out on a regular (weekly?) basis which would keep the soil there moist enough. Water normally travels down, not out. It takes time for the moisture to travel, and it dries from the top down as well. If you have soaker hoses around the foundation, you probably can run them for a few hours each week and the deeper soil will not dry out. The new water will travel a few inches an hour, and if you do evening or overnight watering, the moisture will get about two or three feed down by morning. That would require a very large expenditure of water to do. Best to just keep on it each week, so the need for deep watering is not needed. clay On Sep 13, 2013, at 11:17 AM, Randy Bennell wrote: Some of you may recall my query a year or two ago about what I might do about too much moisture in my garage. I did learn that covering the surface of the table saw and jointer out at the lake with a sheet of tar paper helped a lot. I did that last fall and this spring, they were better than the previous year an
Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep
This seems to have been a problem for the drought struck midwest the past few years. The ground just dried out and houses start to get wonky. I read something about how ungood it was, but since there was no water to spare, no good solution. That said, I would expect you to be able to either soak your foundation area about three foot out on a regular (weekly?) basis which would keep the soil there moist enough. Water normally travels down, not out. It takes time for the moisture to travel, and it dries from the top down as well. If you have soaker hoses around the foundation, you probably can run them for a few hours each week and the deeper soil will not dry out. The new water will travel a few inches an hour, and if you do evening or overnight watering, the moisture will get about two or three feed down by morning. That would require a very large expenditure of water to do. Best to just keep on it each week, so the need for deep watering is not needed. clay On Sep 13, 2013, at 11:17 AM, Randy Bennell wrote: > Some of you may recall my query a year or two ago about what I might do about > too much moisture in my garage. > > I did learn that covering the surface of the table saw and jointer out at the > lake with a sheet of tar paper helped a lot. > > I did that last fall and this spring, they were better than the previous year > and I think things were as wet this spring as last. > > I have a new issue that is sort of the opposite. > > The ground around my house is too dry and that is causing some shifting. > Doors are sticking and it is obvious that the south side of the house is down > somewhat - not really visible to the eye or noticable when one walks accross > the floor, but put a level on the floor and it is surprising how much it is > down. We added on to that side of the house in 1987. The original basement is > still reasonably level but the addition has sagged somewhat on the outer edge > away from the basement. The basement has footings and a poured concrete wall. > The addition is built on piles and a gradebeam. There are a number of bell > piles and a couple of straight piles as there were a couple of spots where > there was water coming in when they drilled and they were not able to bell > the bottom. > > Here in the Red River Valley we have lots of good old clay gumbo. > It swells when wet and shrinks when dry. It has been dry. > > I have been wondering how I might introduce more water down near the level of > the footings to see if that might help to move the house back into level or > at the very least, prevent it from getting any worse. > > I can live with it the way it is if I have to but I would not want it to get > much worse. That would pose issues that would be more visible. > > I see tree root feeders but I don't know if they are long enough to go that > deep. > I also wonder about creating cavities if one pumps water in under pressure. > > Anyone have experience in this sort of thing or good ideas? > > I also wonder about a sort of reverse French drain. > Could I drill some fence post holes deep, fill them with a pipe liner and > stone and just pour water on them from above? Or do you think I would need > pressure to make the water go down the hole? > > Randy > > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep
Yes they do, most all soil will compact if it's wet or dry. Water just intensifies the issue. Luther KB5QHUForest Park, IL '98 ML320 "Max" (170,xxx mi) On 9/14/2013 11:32 AM, WILTON wrote: But certain soils can get too dry and shrink significantly taking the footing (and structure) with it. Wilton - Original Message - From: "Craig" To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2013 12:20 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep On Sat, 14 Sep 2013 12:18:31 -0400 Mitch Haley wrote: Benz Hogs wrote: > I'm not so sure your problems are related to the ground being dry. > It sounds like the ground is settling, and I think adding water to it > will accelerate that process. Hire a professional foundation expert > and get their opinion. You may need to excavate around the > foundation, prop the foundation up to the proper location, and add > sand to keep it at the proper height. It sounds like he wasn't able to properly set all the supports because some of the support points were in mud. Now that the mud is gone, it may be possible to redo those footings so that they are solid. I also thought making them muddy again wouldn't magically make the foundation rise to its intended level. In addition, I've always heard that you wanted to keep water AWAY from the foundation, not deliberately add it. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep
But certain soils can get too dry and shrink significantly taking the footing (and structure) with it. Wilton - Original Message - From: "Craig" To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2013 12:20 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep On Sat, 14 Sep 2013 12:18:31 -0400 Mitch Haley wrote: Benz Hogs wrote: > I'm not so sure your problems are related to the ground being dry. > It sounds like the ground is settling, and I think adding water to it > will accelerate that process. Hire a professional foundation expert > and get their opinion. You may need to excavate around the > foundation, prop the foundation up to the proper location, and add > sand to keep it at the proper height. It sounds like he wasn't able to properly set all the supports because some of the support points were in mud. Now that the mud is gone, it may be possible to redo those footings so that they are solid. I also thought making them muddy again wouldn't magically make the foundation rise to its intended level. In addition, I've always heard that you wanted to keep water AWAY from the foundation, not deliberately add it. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep
On Sat, 14 Sep 2013 12:18:31 -0400 Mitch Haley wrote: > Benz Hogs wrote: > > I'm not so sure your problems are related to the ground being dry. > > It sounds like the ground is settling, and I think adding water to it > > will accelerate that process. Hire a professional foundation expert > > and get their opinion. You may need to excavate around the > > foundation, prop the foundation up to the proper location, and add > > sand to keep it at the proper height. > > It sounds like he wasn't able to properly set all the supports because > some of the support points were in mud. Now that the mud is gone, it > may be possible to redo those footings so that they are solid. I also > thought making them muddy again wouldn't magically make the foundation > rise to its intended level. In addition, I've always heard that you wanted to keep water AWAY from the foundation, not deliberately add it. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep
Benz Hogs wrote: I'm not so sure your problems are related to the ground being dry. It sounds like the ground is settling, and I think adding water to it will accelerate that process. Hire a professional foundation expert and get their opinion. You may need to excavate around the foundation, prop the foundation up to the proper location, and add sand to keep it at the proper height. It sounds like he wasn't able to properly set all the supports because some of the support points were in mud. Now that the mud is gone, it may be possible to redo those footings so that they are solid. I also thought making them muddy again wouldn't magically make the foundation rise to its intended level. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep
I'm not so sure your problems are related to the ground being dry. It sounds like the ground is settling, and I think adding water to it will accelerate that process. Hire a professional foundation expert and get their opinion. You may need to excavate around the foundation, prop the foundation up to the proper location, and add sand to keep it at the proper height. Luther KB5QHUForest Park, IL '98 ML320 "Max" (170,xxx mi) On 9/13/2013 1:17 PM, Randy Bennell wrote: Some of you may recall my query a year or two ago about what I might do about too much moisture in my garage. I did learn that covering the surface of the table saw and jointer out at the lake with a sheet of tar paper helped a lot. I did that last fall and this spring, they were better than the previous year and I think things were as wet this spring as last. I have a new issue that is sort of the opposite. The ground around my house is too dry and that is causing some shifting. Doors are sticking and it is obvious that the south side of the house is down somewhat - not really visible to the eye or noticable when one walks accross the floor, but put a level on the floor and it is surprising how much it is down. We added on to that side of the house in 1987. The original basement is still reasonably level but the addition has sagged somewhat on the outer edge away from the basement. The basement has footings and a poured concrete wall. The addition is built on piles and a gradebeam. There are a number of bell piles and a couple of straight piles as there were a couple of spots where there was water coming in when they drilled and they were not able to bell the bottom. Here in the Red River Valley we have lots of good old clay gumbo. It swells when wet and shrinks when dry. It has been dry. I have been wondering how I might introduce more water down near the level of the footings to see if that might help to move the house back into level or at the very least, prevent it from getting any worse. I can live with it the way it is if I have to but I would not want it to get much worse. That would pose issues that would be more visible. I see tree root feeders but I don't know if they are long enough to go that deep. I also wonder about creating cavities if one pumps water in under pressure. Anyone have experience in this sort of thing or good ideas? I also wonder about a sort of reverse French drain. Could I drill some fence post holes deep, fill them with a pipe liner and stone and just pour water on them from above? Or do you think I would need pressure to make the water go down the hole? Randy ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep
We have a soaker hose somewhere. Well dig it out and give it a try while we think of other ways to go deeper. Randy On 13/09/2013 2:34 PM, Rich Thomas wrote: In Houston the soil is gumbo, and I used to hear everyone talk about watering their foundations but never knew anyone who did it. But since gumbo is fairly water-resistant you need something very slow to get water into it if indeed you want to water your foundation. The best thing would be that soaker hose that is porous and water just sorta slowly oozes out of it. Put a timer on the faucet so you can set how much and when. --R On 9/13/13 3:26 PM, Randy Bennell wrote: We have been pouring water on the surface via sprinkler etc. Also have a big maple tree about there that no doubt consumes a fair amount of water and 2 elms in the back that would do the same. Don't want to cut the trees out so need to find a way to water more effectively. Randy On 13/09/2013 1:34 PM, WILTON wrote: 'Bout to ask about that coupla days ago, but let it go. 'Doubt you need water under pressure. Have ya tried a sprinkler or soaker hose in the necessary area? Wilt - Original Message - From: "Randy Bennell" To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 2:17 PM Subject: [MBZ] OT watering deep Some of you may recall my query a year or two ago about what I might do about too much moisture in my garage. I did learn that covering the surface of the table saw and jointer out at the lake with a sheet of tar paper helped a lot. I did that last fall and this spring, they were better than the previous year and I think things were as wet this spring as last. I have a new issue that is sort of the opposite. The ground around my house is too dry and that is causing some shifting. Doors are sticking and it is obvious that the south side of the house is down somewhat - not really visible to the eye or noticable when one walks accross the floor, but put a level on the floor and it is surprising how much it is down. We added on to that side of the house in 1987. The original basement is still reasonably level but the addition has sagged somewhat on the outer edge away from the basement. The basement has footings and a poured concrete wall. The addition is built on piles and a gradebeam. There are a number of bell piles and a couple of straight piles as there were a couple of spots where there was water coming in when they drilled and they were not able to bell the bottom. Here in the Red River Valley we have lots of good old clay gumbo. It swells when wet and shrinks when dry. It has been dry. I have been wondering how I might introduce more water down near the level of the footings to see if that might help to move the house back into level or at the very least, prevent it from getting any worse. I can live with it the way it is if I have to but I would not want it to get much worse. That would pose issues that would be more visible. I see tree root feeders but I don't know if they are long enough to go that deep. I also wonder about creating cavities if one pumps water in under pressure. Anyone have experience in this sort of thing or good ideas? I also wonder about a sort of reverse French drain. Could I drill some fence post holes deep, fill them with a pipe liner and stone and just pour water on them from above? Or do you think I would need pressure to make the water go down the hole? Randy ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] OT watering deep
Some of you may recall my query a year or two ago about what I might do about too much moisture in my garage. I did learn that covering the surface of the table saw and jointer out at the lake with a sheet of tar paper helped a lot. I did that last fall and this spring, they were better than the previous year and I think things were as wet this spring as last. I have a new issue that is sort of the opposite. The ground around my house is too dry and that is causing some shifting. Doors are sticking and it is obvious that the south side of the house is down somewhat - not really visible to the eye or noticable when one walks accross the floor, but put a level on the floor and it is surprising how much it is down. We added on to that side of the house in 1987. The original basement is still reasonably level but the addition has sagged somewhat on the outer edge away from the basement. The basement has footings and a poured concrete wall. The addition is built on piles and a gradebeam. There are a number of bell piles and a couple of straight piles as there were a couple of spots where there was water coming in when they drilled and they were not able to bell the bottom. Here in the Red River Valley we have lots of good old clay gumbo. It swells when wet and shrinks when dry. It has been dry. I have been wondering how I might introduce more water down near the level of the footings to see if that might help to move the house back into level or at the very least, prevent it from getting any worse. I can live with it the way it is if I have to but I would not want it to get much worse. That would pose issues that would be more visible. I see tree root feeders but I don't know if they are long enough to go that deep. I also wonder about creating cavities if one pumps water in under pressure. Anyone have experience in this sort of thing or good ideas? I also wonder about a sort of reverse French drain. Could I drill some fence post holes deep, fill them with a pipe liner and stone and just pour water on them from above? Or do you think I would need pressure to make the water go down the hole? Randy ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep
On Sep 13, 2013, at 1:17 PM, "Randy Bennell" wrote: > I have been wondering how I might introduce more water down near the level of > the footings to see if that might help to move the house back into level or > at the very least, prevent it from getting any worse. Have a local Native American perform a rain dance. Oh, and be grateful you don't live in Colorado. Rick Taking a smart aleck cue from Henny ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep
Soaker hoses along the foundation is the recommended method here in OK, home of red clay "dirt". On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Randy Bennell wrote: > > We have been pouring water on the surface via sprinkler etc. > Also have a big maple tree about there that no doubt consumes a fair > amount of water and 2 elms in the back that would do the same. > > Don't want to cut the trees out so need to find a way to water more > effectively. > > Randy > > > On 13/09/2013 1:34 PM, WILTON wrote: > >> 'Bout to ask about that coupla days ago, but let it go. >> 'Doubt you need water under pressure. Have ya tried a sprinkler or >> soaker hose in the necessary area? >> >> Wilt >> >> - Original Message - From: "Randy Bennell" >> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" >> Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 2:17 PM >> Subject: [MBZ] OT watering deep >> >> >> Some of you may recall my query a year or two ago about what I might do >>> about too much moisture in my garage. >>> >>> I did learn that covering the surface of the table saw and jointer out >>> at the lake with a sheet of tar paper helped a lot. >>> >>> I did that last fall and this spring, they were better than the previous >>> year and I think things were as wet this spring as last. >>> >>> I have a new issue that is sort of the opposite. >>> >>> The ground around my house is too dry and that is causing some shifting. >>> Doors are sticking and it is obvious that the south side of the house is >>> down somewhat - not really visible to the eye or noticable when one walks >>> accross the floor, but put a level on the floor and it is surprising how >>> much it is down. We added on to that side of the house in 1987. The >>> original basement is still reasonably level but the addition has sagged >>> somewhat on the outer edge away from the basement. The basement has >>> footings and a poured concrete wall. The addition is built on piles and a >>> gradebeam. There are a number of bell piles and a couple of straight piles >>> as there were a couple of spots where there was water coming in when they >>> drilled and they were not able to bell the bottom. >>> >>> Here in the Red River Valley we have lots of good old clay gumbo. >>> It swells when wet and shrinks when dry. It has been dry. >>> >>> I have been wondering how I might introduce more water down near the >>> level of the footings to see if that might help to move the house back into >>> level or at the very least, prevent it from getting any worse. >>> >>> I can live with it the way it is if I have to but I would not want it to >>> get much worse. That would pose issues that would be more visible. >>> >>> I see tree root feeders but I don't know if they are long enough to go >>> that deep. >>> I also wonder about creating cavities if one pumps water in under >>> pressure. >>> >>> Anyone have experience in this sort of thing or good ideas? >>> >>> I also wonder about a sort of reverse French drain. >>> Could I drill some fence post holes deep, fill them with a pipe liner >>> and stone and just pour water on them from above? Or do you think I would >>> need pressure to make the water go down the hole? >>> >>> Randy >>> >>> >>> >>> __**_ >>> http://www.okiebenz.com >>> >>> To search list archives >>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/<http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/> >>> >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com<http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com> >>> >> >> >> __**_ >> http://www.okiebenz.com >> >> To search list archives >> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/<http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/> >> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com<http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com> >> > > > __**_ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives > http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/<http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com<http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com> > -- OK Don "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin 1775 "in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes." - Benjamin Franklin 1789 2013 F150, 18 mpg 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep
We have been pouring water on the surface via sprinkler etc. Also have a big maple tree about there that no doubt consumes a fair amount of water and 2 elms in the back that would do the same. Don't want to cut the trees out so need to find a way to water more effectively. Randy On 13/09/2013 1:34 PM, WILTON wrote: 'Bout to ask about that coupla days ago, but let it go. 'Doubt you need water under pressure. Have ya tried a sprinkler or soaker hose in the necessary area? Wilt - Original Message - From: "Randy Bennell" To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 2:17 PM Subject: [MBZ] OT watering deep Some of you may recall my query a year or two ago about what I might do about too much moisture in my garage. I did learn that covering the surface of the table saw and jointer out at the lake with a sheet of tar paper helped a lot. I did that last fall and this spring, they were better than the previous year and I think things were as wet this spring as last. I have a new issue that is sort of the opposite. The ground around my house is too dry and that is causing some shifting. Doors are sticking and it is obvious that the south side of the house is down somewhat - not really visible to the eye or noticable when one walks accross the floor, but put a level on the floor and it is surprising how much it is down. We added on to that side of the house in 1987. The original basement is still reasonably level but the addition has sagged somewhat on the outer edge away from the basement. The basement has footings and a poured concrete wall. The addition is built on piles and a gradebeam. There are a number of bell piles and a couple of straight piles as there were a couple of spots where there was water coming in when they drilled and they were not able to bell the bottom. Here in the Red River Valley we have lots of good old clay gumbo. It swells when wet and shrinks when dry. It has been dry. I have been wondering how I might introduce more water down near the level of the footings to see if that might help to move the house back into level or at the very least, prevent it from getting any worse. I can live with it the way it is if I have to but I would not want it to get much worse. That would pose issues that would be more visible. I see tree root feeders but I don't know if they are long enough to go that deep. I also wonder about creating cavities if one pumps water in under pressure. Anyone have experience in this sort of thing or good ideas? I also wonder about a sort of reverse French drain. Could I drill some fence post holes deep, fill them with a pipe liner and stone and just pour water on them from above? Or do you think I would need pressure to make the water go down the hole? Randy ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep
In Houston the soil is gumbo, and I used to hear everyone talk about watering their foundations but never knew anyone who did it. But since gumbo is fairly water-resistant you need something very slow to get water into it if indeed you want to water your foundation. The best thing would be that soaker hose that is porous and water just sorta slowly oozes out of it. Put a timer on the faucet so you can set how much and when. --R On 9/13/13 3:26 PM, Randy Bennell wrote: We have been pouring water on the surface via sprinkler etc. Also have a big maple tree about there that no doubt consumes a fair amount of water and 2 elms in the back that would do the same. Don't want to cut the trees out so need to find a way to water more effectively. Randy On 13/09/2013 1:34 PM, WILTON wrote: 'Bout to ask about that coupla days ago, but let it go. 'Doubt you need water under pressure. Have ya tried a sprinkler or soaker hose in the necessary area? Wilt - Original Message - From: "Randy Bennell" To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 2:17 PM Subject: [MBZ] OT watering deep Some of you may recall my query a year or two ago about what I might do about too much moisture in my garage. I did learn that covering the surface of the table saw and jointer out at the lake with a sheet of tar paper helped a lot. I did that last fall and this spring, they were better than the previous year and I think things were as wet this spring as last. I have a new issue that is sort of the opposite. The ground around my house is too dry and that is causing some shifting. Doors are sticking and it is obvious that the south side of the house is down somewhat - not really visible to the eye or noticable when one walks accross the floor, but put a level on the floor and it is surprising how much it is down. We added on to that side of the house in 1987. The original basement is still reasonably level but the addition has sagged somewhat on the outer edge away from the basement. The basement has footings and a poured concrete wall. The addition is built on piles and a gradebeam. There are a number of bell piles and a couple of straight piles as there were a couple of spots where there was water coming in when they drilled and they were not able to bell the bottom. Here in the Red River Valley we have lots of good old clay gumbo. It swells when wet and shrinks when dry. It has been dry. I have been wondering how I might introduce more water down near the level of the footings to see if that might help to move the house back into level or at the very least, prevent it from getting any worse. I can live with it the way it is if I have to but I would not want it to get much worse. That would pose issues that would be more visible. I see tree root feeders but I don't know if they are long enough to go that deep. I also wonder about creating cavities if one pumps water in under pressure. Anyone have experience in this sort of thing or good ideas? I also wonder about a sort of reverse French drain. Could I drill some fence post holes deep, fill them with a pipe liner and stone and just pour water on them from above? Or do you think I would need pressure to make the water go down the hole? Randy ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT watering deep
'Bout to ask about that coupla days ago, but let it go. 'Doubt you need water under pressure. Have ya tried a sprinkler or soaker hose in the necessary area? Wilt - Original Message - From: "Randy Bennell" To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 2:17 PM Subject: [MBZ] OT watering deep Some of you may recall my query a year or two ago about what I might do about too much moisture in my garage. I did learn that covering the surface of the table saw and jointer out at the lake with a sheet of tar paper helped a lot. I did that last fall and this spring, they were better than the previous year and I think things were as wet this spring as last. I have a new issue that is sort of the opposite. The ground around my house is too dry and that is causing some shifting. Doors are sticking and it is obvious that the south side of the house is down somewhat - not really visible to the eye or noticable when one walks accross the floor, but put a level on the floor and it is surprising how much it is down. We added on to that side of the house in 1987. The original basement is still reasonably level but the addition has sagged somewhat on the outer edge away from the basement. The basement has footings and a poured concrete wall. The addition is built on piles and a gradebeam. There are a number of bell piles and a couple of straight piles as there were a couple of spots where there was water coming in when they drilled and they were not able to bell the bottom. Here in the Red River Valley we have lots of good old clay gumbo. It swells when wet and shrinks when dry. It has been dry. I have been wondering how I might introduce more water down near the level of the footings to see if that might help to move the house back into level or at the very least, prevent it from getting any worse. I can live with it the way it is if I have to but I would not want it to get much worse. That would pose issues that would be more visible. I see tree root feeders but I don't know if they are long enough to go that deep. I also wonder about creating cavities if one pumps water in under pressure. Anyone have experience in this sort of thing or good ideas? I also wonder about a sort of reverse French drain. Could I drill some fence post holes deep, fill them with a pipe liner and stone and just pour water on them from above? Or do you think I would need pressure to make the water go down the hole? Randy ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
