Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-14 Thread Clay via Mercedes
I put the bathroom floor heaters in the remodel to the seattle house.  SWMBA 
loathed cold floors so the things were on for her comfort the first few years.  
I found a few cold spots and thought the things gobbled heating dollars.  
Probably did not, but I had no issue with a good cool floor after a hot shower. 
 Then again, I sleep with windows open year round when in residence.

AK house has no heated floors and the furnace runs year round. Even with the 
windows open, as the place is a musty rank smelling place.  Maybe winter lack 
of relative humidity will resolve that.


clay 

I have no pronouns please do not refer to me.



> On Aug 14, 2020, at 12:37 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Our bathroom in the “Momolith” (massive 4,000 SF house in Indianapolis we 
> owned) had heated tile floors in the bathroom. Resistance elements laid on 
> the floor decking before the tile was put down, I believe. At first I was 
> reluctant to use them, as I figured they would suck electricity. After I did 
> some research I found that they were very low wattage and heated very slowly. 
> The whole idea was to have them turn on early in the morning, heat the tile, 
> then turn off. The thermal mass of the tile would stay warm for some time 
> after.
> 
> They had a little controller on the wall with the time clock setup, like a 
> lighting controller. I would set them to come on at 2:00 am and turn off at 
> 5:00 am. The bathroom floor would be nice and toasty well into the morning 
> hours, making getting out of bed and ready for work in the morning in the 
> winter months quite nice.
> 
> If I lived in a climate like that I would definitely consider this setup.
> 
> -D
> 
>> On Aug 14, 2020, at 10:12 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Our house has original red oak from 1938 when it was built. The people we 
>> hired to refinish it when we pulled up the carpet called them "narrow 
>> boards" which was something I hadn't heard before.
>> I really like having hardwood floors, I also like having a woodstove in the 
>> basement so the floors are warm in the winter time.
>> -Curt
>> 
>>   On Friday, August 14, 2020, 7:40:22 AM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:  
>> 
>> Or maple or any other hardwood. Or if access to reclaimed old growth pine or 
>> fir which are very hard. 
>> Basically wood or stone or porcelain tile are the only materials that I’d 
>> ever use on a floor. Carpet in very few exceptions. Everything else is pure 
>> trash.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:38 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> All things considered, I would do solid oak floors (with the exception of 
>>> the bathroom and laundry room of course.) I used to do solid oak flooring 
>>> as a side gig many, many years ago. I knew a guy who did the finishing and 
>>> we teamed up to do floors as a side gig after work and on weekends. T oak 
>>> floors were very common in central Indiana at the time, so we had no 
>>> problem getting work. We might do 6-8 homes a year, not a lot, because it 
>>> was more fun and a way to earn some spending money without running a full 
>>> blown business.
>>> 
>>> Solid oak floors are pretty easy to put down as long as the substrate 
>>> they’re going on is good. That’s half the work. With a good substrate 
>>> laying down  oak T can go pretty fast and isn’t terribly difficult to do, 
>>> especially with an air nailer. It’s the finish work that takes time.
>>> 
>>> -D
>>> 
 On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:28 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
  wrote:
 
 It still has to be specifically waterproof, Pergo or not. Maybe all
 Pergo is waterproof these days. Back in about 1998 I had a continuous
 kitchen/living room/entryway floor done in Pergo. Professionally
 installed, glued seams, etc.
 
 It still got permanently swollen on seams where water was accidentally
 allowed to stand. Not talking about a flood, just spills. It happens,
 don't think it won't, especially in kitchens and entryways. I wasn't
 impressed.
 
 If I were to install laminate again, I would only install 100%
 guaranteed waterproof laminate, regardess of where in the house it is
 going.
 
 One other downside of all tile and laminate floors is the house will be
 noisy. In addition to dirt and pet stains, carpet absorbs a lot of
 sound.
 
 
 Dan Penoff via Mercedes  writes:
 
> If I was doing laminate, and I have before, I would only use Pergo. 
> Everything else is junk. Yes, it’s expensive, but the old adage of “You 
> get what you pay for” definitely rings true with this stuff.
> 
> -D
> 
>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:41 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Real actual Pergo brand laminate flooring is amazing. We looked at a 
>> house where the pipes had frozen and leaked. The whole house stank, the 
>> ceiling fans were drooping 

Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-14 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes
On Fri, August 14, 2020 4:37 pm, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
> Our bathroom in the “Momolith” (massive 4,000 SF house in
> Indianapolis we owned) had heated tile floors in the bathroom. Resistance
> elements laid on the floor decking before the tile was put down, I
> believe.

I believe in radiant floor heat, propane/gas boiler and lots of PEX hung
on the bottom of the subfloor works nicely.

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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-14 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
Our bathroom in the “Momolith” (massive 4,000 SF house in Indianapolis we 
owned) had heated tile floors in the bathroom. Resistance elements laid on the 
floor decking before the tile was put down, I believe. At first I was reluctant 
to use them, as I figured they would suck electricity. After I did some 
research I found that they were very low wattage and heated very slowly. The 
whole idea was to have them turn on early in the morning, heat the tile, then 
turn off. The thermal mass of the tile would stay warm for some time after.

They had a little controller on the wall with the time clock setup, like a 
lighting controller. I would set them to come on at 2:00 am and turn off at 
5:00 am. The bathroom floor would be nice and toasty well into the morning 
hours, making getting out of bed and ready for work in the morning in the 
winter months quite nice.

If I lived in a climate like that I would definitely consider this setup.

-D

> On Aug 14, 2020, at 10:12 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Our house has original red oak from 1938 when it was built. The people we 
> hired to refinish it when we pulled up the carpet called them "narrow boards" 
> which was something I hadn't heard before.
> I really like having hardwood floors, I also like having a woodstove in the 
> basement so the floors are warm in the winter time.
> -Curt
> 
>On Friday, August 14, 2020, 7:40:22 AM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes 
>  wrote:  
> 
> Or maple or any other hardwood. Or if access to reclaimed old growth pine or 
> fir which are very hard. 
> Basically wood or stone or porcelain tile are the only materials that I’d 
> ever use on a floor. Carpet in very few exceptions. Everything else is pure 
> trash.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:38 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> All things considered, I would do solid oak floors (with the exception of 
>> the bathroom and laundry room of course.) I used to do solid oak flooring as 
>> a side gig many, many years ago. I knew a guy who did the finishing and we 
>> teamed up to do floors as a side gig after work and on weekends. T oak 
>> floors were very common in central Indiana at the time, so we had no problem 
>> getting work. We might do 6-8 homes a year, not a lot, because it was more 
>> fun and a way to earn some spending money without running a full blown 
>> business.
>> 
>> Solid oak floors are pretty easy to put down as long as the substrate 
>> they’re going on is good. That’s half the work. With a good substrate laying 
>> down  oak T can go pretty fast and isn’t terribly difficult to do, 
>> especially with an air nailer. It’s the finish work that takes time.
>> 
>> -D
>> 
>>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:28 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> It still has to be specifically waterproof, Pergo or not. Maybe all
>>> Pergo is waterproof these days. Back in about 1998 I had a continuous
>>> kitchen/living room/entryway floor done in Pergo. Professionally
>>> installed, glued seams, etc.
>>> 
>>> It still got permanently swollen on seams where water was accidentally
>>> allowed to stand. Not talking about a flood, just spills. It happens,
>>> don't think it won't, especially in kitchens and entryways. I wasn't
>>> impressed.
>>> 
>>> If I were to install laminate again, I would only install 100%
>>> guaranteed waterproof laminate, regardess of where in the house it is
>>> going.
>>> 
>>> One other downside of all tile and laminate floors is the house will be
>>> noisy. In addition to dirt and pet stains, carpet absorbs a lot of
>>> sound.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Dan Penoff via Mercedes  writes:
>>> 
 If I was doing laminate, and I have before, I would only use Pergo. 
 Everything else is junk. Yes, it’s expensive, but the old adage of “You 
 get what you pay for” definitely rings true with this stuff.
 
 -D
 
> On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:41 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Real actual Pergo brand laminate flooring is amazing. We looked at a 
> house where the pipes had frozen and leaked. The whole house stank, the 
> ceiling fans were drooping flowers, the paint was coming off the walls. 
> The Pergo flooring was absolutely perfect. It hadn't buckled or 
> de-laminated, there was no sign of it having any problem despite a very 
> high humidity. If I were going to do laminate floors, for a house I was 
> going to live in, I'd pay the premium for it every time.
> -Curt
> 
>   On Monday, August 10, 2020, 12:24:37 PM EDT, fmiser via Mercedes 
>  wrote:  
> 
>> Kaleb wrote:
> 
>> She wants to do the pergo thru the whole house that is currently
>> carpeted and in the utility and bathroom. 
> 
> Pergo isn't waterproof - right?
> 
> Using that in the bathroom and by the washing machine is as silly
> as using carpet in those places.  There _will_ be water on the
> floor!
> 
>>> 
>>> 

Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-14 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 Our house has original red oak from 1938 when it was built. The people we 
hired to refinish it when we pulled up the carpet called them "narrow boards" 
which was something I hadn't heard before.
I really like having hardwood floors, I also like having a woodstove in the 
basement so the floors are warm in the winter time.
-Curt

On Friday, August 14, 2020, 7:40:22 AM EDT, Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 Or maple or any other hardwood. Or if access to reclaimed old growth pine or 
fir which are very hard. 
Basically wood or stone or porcelain tile are the only materials that I’d ever 
use on a floor. Carpet in very few exceptions. Everything else is pure trash.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:38 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> All things considered, I would do solid oak floors (with the exception of 
> the bathroom and laundry room of course.) I used to do solid oak flooring as 
> a side gig many, many years ago. I knew a guy who did the finishing and we 
> teamed up to do floors as a side gig after work and on weekends. T oak 
> floors were very common in central Indiana at the time, so we had no problem 
> getting work. We might do 6-8 homes a year, not a lot, because it was more 
> fun and a way to earn some spending money without running a full blown 
> business.
> 
> Solid oak floors are pretty easy to put down as long as the substrate they’re 
> going on is good. That’s half the work. With a good substrate laying down  
> oak T can go pretty fast and isn’t terribly difficult to do, especially 
> with an air nailer. It’s the finish work that takes time.
> 
> -D
> 
>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:28 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> It still has to be specifically waterproof, Pergo or not. Maybe all
>> Pergo is waterproof these days. Back in about 1998 I had a continuous
>> kitchen/living room/entryway floor done in Pergo. Professionally
>> installed, glued seams, etc.
>> 
>> It still got permanently swollen on seams where water was accidentally
>> allowed to stand. Not talking about a flood, just spills. It happens,
>> don't think it won't, especially in kitchens and entryways. I wasn't
>> impressed.
>> 
>> If I were to install laminate again, I would only install 100%
>> guaranteed waterproof laminate, regardess of where in the house it is
>> going.
>> 
>> One other downside of all tile and laminate floors is the house will be
>> noisy. In addition to dirt and pet stains, carpet absorbs a lot of
>> sound.
>> 
>> 
>> Dan Penoff via Mercedes  writes:
>> 
>>> If I was doing laminate, and I have before, I would only use Pergo. 
>>> Everything else is junk. Yes, it’s expensive, but the old adage of “You get 
>>> what you pay for” definitely rings true with this stuff.
>>> 
>>> -D
>>> 
 On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:41 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
  wrote:
 
 Real actual Pergo brand laminate flooring is amazing. We looked at a house 
 where the pipes had frozen and leaked. The whole house stank, the ceiling 
 fans were drooping flowers, the paint was coming off the walls. The Pergo 
 flooring was absolutely perfect. It hadn't buckled or de-laminated, there 
 was no sign of it having any problem despite a very high humidity. If I 
 were going to do laminate floors, for a house I was going to live in, I'd 
 pay the premium for it every time.
 -Curt
 
  On Monday, August 10, 2020, 12:24:37 PM EDT, fmiser via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
> Kaleb wrote:
 
> She wants to do the pergo thru the whole house that is currently
> carpeted and in the utility and bathroom. 
 
 Pergo isn't waterproof - right?
 
 Using that in the bathroom and by the washing machine is as silly
 as using carpet in those places.  There _will_ be water on the
 floor!
 
>> 
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>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-14 Thread Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes
But it’s beautiful and it can last for a few hundred years if cared for. That’s 
the difference.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 13, 2020, at 9:38 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> We have Brazilian cherry flooring that is so hard that glasses and plates
> shatter when dropped on it.
> 
>> On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 6:26 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> My parent's kitchen area is all vinyl that looks like tile. Visually its
>> amazing, looks just like tile, if you had soft soled shoes on you probably
>> wouldn't know it wasn't tile. When you touch it its obvious.
>> Theirs is all one piece, makes cleanup a snap.
>> -Curt
>> 
>>On Thursday, August 13, 2020, 6:15:11 PM EDT, Mitch Haley via Mercedes
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> On Thu, August 13, 2020 6:09 pm, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:
>>> I'm probably a dinosaur but I'll go with vinyl (over ceramic tile) every
>>> time for kitchens and bathrooms.
>> 
>> I'll admit it's nice when I drop a glass or plate and it bounces instead
>> of shattering.
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
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>> http://www.okiebenz.com
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-14 Thread Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes
I have zero tolerance for fake, made to look like the real thing ie, tile or 
wood materials. It’s all trash in my eyes. Sorry.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 13, 2020, at 6:26 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
>  My parent's kitchen area is all vinyl that looks like tile. Visually its 
> amazing, looks just like tile, if you had soft soled shoes on you probably 
> wouldn't know it wasn't tile. When you touch it its obvious.
> Theirs is all one piece, makes cleanup a snap.
> -Curt
> 
>On Thursday, August 13, 2020, 6:15:11 PM EDT, Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
>  wrote:  
> 
>> On Thu, August 13, 2020 6:09 pm, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:
>> I'm probably a dinosaur but I'll go with vinyl (over ceramic tile) every
>> time for kitchens and bathrooms.
> 
> I'll admit it's nice when I drop a glass or plate and it bounces instead
> of shattering.
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-14 Thread Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes
But it’s ugly and cheap looking.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 13, 2020, at 6:15 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> On Thu, August 13, 2020 6:09 pm, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:
>> I'm probably a dinosaur but I'll go with vinyl (over ceramic tile) every
>> time for kitchens and bathrooms.
> 
> I'll admit it's nice when I drop a glass or plate and it bounces instead
> of shattering.
> 
> ___
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> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-14 Thread Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes
Or maple or any other hardwood. Or if access to reclaimed old growth pine or 
fir which are very hard. 
Basically wood or stone or porcelain tile are the only materials that I’d ever 
use on a floor. Carpet in very few exceptions. Everything else is pure trash.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:38 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> All things considered, I would do solid oak floors (with the exception of 
> the bathroom and laundry room of course.) I used to do solid oak flooring as 
> a side gig many, many years ago. I knew a guy who did the finishing and we 
> teamed up to do floors as a side gig after work and on weekends. T oak 
> floors were very common in central Indiana at the time, so we had no problem 
> getting work. We might do 6-8 homes a year, not a lot, because it was more 
> fun and a way to earn some spending money without running a full blown 
> business.
> 
> Solid oak floors are pretty easy to put down as long as the substrate they’re 
> going on is good. That’s half the work. With a good substrate laying down  
> oak T can go pretty fast and isn’t terribly difficult to do, especially 
> with an air nailer. It’s the finish work that takes time.
> 
> -D
> 
>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:28 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> It still has to be specifically waterproof, Pergo or not. Maybe all
>> Pergo is waterproof these days. Back in about 1998 I had a continuous
>> kitchen/living room/entryway floor done in Pergo. Professionally
>> installed, glued seams, etc.
>> 
>> It still got permanently swollen on seams where water was accidentally
>> allowed to stand. Not talking about a flood, just spills. It happens,
>> don't think it won't, especially in kitchens and entryways. I wasn't
>> impressed.
>> 
>> If I were to install laminate again, I would only install 100%
>> guaranteed waterproof laminate, regardess of where in the house it is
>> going.
>> 
>> One other downside of all tile and laminate floors is the house will be
>> noisy. In addition to dirt and pet stains, carpet absorbs a lot of
>> sound.
>> 
>> 
>> Dan Penoff via Mercedes  writes:
>> 
>>> If I was doing laminate, and I have before, I would only use Pergo. 
>>> Everything else is junk. Yes, it’s expensive, but the old adage of “You get 
>>> what you pay for” definitely rings true with this stuff.
>>> 
>>> -D
>>> 
 On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:41 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
  wrote:
 
 Real actual Pergo brand laminate flooring is amazing. We looked at a house 
 where the pipes had frozen and leaked. The whole house stank, the ceiling 
 fans were drooping flowers, the paint was coming off the walls. The Pergo 
 flooring was absolutely perfect. It hadn't buckled or de-laminated, there 
 was no sign of it having any problem despite a very high humidity. If I 
 were going to do laminate floors, for a house I was going to live in, I'd 
 pay the premium for it every time.
 -Curt
 
  On Monday, August 10, 2020, 12:24:37 PM EDT, fmiser via Mercedes 
  wrote:  
 
> Kaleb wrote:
 
> She wants to do the pergo thru the whole house that is currently
> carpeted and in the utility and bathroom. 
 
 Pergo isn't waterproof - right?
 
 Using that in the bathroom and by the washing machine is as silly
 as using carpet in those places.  There _will_ be water on the
 floor!
 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-13 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
We have Brazilian cherry flooring that is so hard that glasses and plates
shatter when dropped on it.

On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 6:26 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>  My parent's kitchen area is all vinyl that looks like tile. Visually its
> amazing, looks just like tile, if you had soft soled shoes on you probably
> wouldn't know it wasn't tile. When you touch it its obvious.
> Theirs is all one piece, makes cleanup a snap.
> -Curt
>
> On Thursday, August 13, 2020, 6:15:11 PM EDT, Mitch Haley via Mercedes
>  wrote:
>
>  On Thu, August 13, 2020 6:09 pm, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:
> > I'm probably a dinosaur but I'll go with vinyl (over ceramic tile) every
> > time for kitchens and bathrooms.
>
> I'll admit it's nice when I drop a glass or plate and it bounces instead
> of shattering.
>
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>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-13 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 My parent's kitchen area is all vinyl that looks like tile. Visually its 
amazing, looks just like tile, if you had soft soled shoes on you probably 
wouldn't know it wasn't tile. When you touch it its obvious.
Theirs is all one piece, makes cleanup a snap.
-Curt

On Thursday, August 13, 2020, 6:15:11 PM EDT, Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 On Thu, August 13, 2020 6:09 pm, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:
> I'm probably a dinosaur but I'll go with vinyl (over ceramic tile) every
> time for kitchens and bathrooms.

I'll admit it's nice when I drop a glass or plate and it bounces instead
of shattering.

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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-13 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes
On Thu, August 13, 2020 6:09 pm, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:
> I'm probably a dinosaur but I'll go with vinyl (over ceramic tile) every
> time for kitchens and bathrooms.

I'll admit it's nice when I drop a glass or plate and it bounces instead
of shattering.

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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-13 Thread Scott Ritchey via Mercedes
I'm probably a dinosaur but I'll go with vinyl (over ceramic tile) every
time for kitchens and bathrooms.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes On Behalf Of G Mann via Mercedes
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2020 4:01 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Cc: G Mann 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

If you are building a new house for yourself, bathrooms and laundry rooms..
kitchen sink areas, use marine grade 5 ply plywood... it is made to be
exposed to water and will hold up years longer than particle board flooring
underlayment.

Since the Kaleb rent house has a history of soft water damaged particle
boards in those areas... rip it out and install marine grade plywood... you
have broken tile because the particle board got wet and went soft.. floor
flexed,, tiles broke..

While the floor is open to the floor joists get fans running to dry the
joists, and re-route AC condensate drains OUT of the area AC condensate
drains always plug up internally with algae, then the drains back up, leak,
and make water damage..Run them OUTSIDE the foundation and make them so you
can run a drain snake up them at least once a year to clear the algae
buildup...
You aren't going to run AC in the winter, so draining to outside the
foundation will be OK..

On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 12:48 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> On Mon, August 10, 2020 10:10 am, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> > When they installed the tile in this house when it was built they 
> > apparently installed it directly on the osb subfloor. As a result we 
> > have had tiles thru the entire house crack over the years.
>
> It varies with tile size (bigger tiles require stiffer subfloor) but 
> IIRC you need about 5/4 inch of wood to support tile without cementboard.
>
> How thick is it, 3/4, 25/32, 1 1/8?
>
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-13 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
If you are building a new house for yourself, bathrooms and laundry rooms..
kitchen sink areas, use marine grade 5 ply plywood... it is made to be
exposed to water and will hold up years longer than particle board flooring
underlayment.

Since the Kaleb rent house has a history of soft water damaged particle
boards in those areas... rip it out and install marine grade plywood... you
have broken tile because the particle board got wet and went soft.. floor
flexed,, tiles broke..

While the floor is open to the floor joists get fans running to dry the
joists, and re-route AC condensate drains OUT of the area AC condensate
drains always plug up internally with algae, then the drains back up, leak,
and make water damage..Run them OUTSIDE the foundation and make them so you
can run a drain snake up them at least once a year to clear the algae
buildup...
You aren't going to run AC in the winter, so draining to outside the
foundation will be OK..

On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 12:48 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> On Mon, August 10, 2020 10:10 am, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> > When they installed the tile in this house when it was built they
> > apparently installed it directly on the osb subfloor. As a result we have
> > had tiles thru the entire house crack over the years.
>
> It varies with tile size (bigger tiles require stiffer subfloor) but IIRC
> you need about 5/4 inch of wood to support tile without cementboard.
>
> How thick is it, 3/4, 25/32, 1 1/8?
>
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> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-13 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes
On Mon, August 10, 2020 10:10 am, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> When they installed the tile in this house when it was built they
> apparently installed it directly on the osb subfloor. As a result we have
> had tiles thru the entire house crack over the years.

It varies with tile size (bigger tiles require stiffer subfloor) but IIRC
you need about 5/4 inch of wood to support tile without cementboard.

How thick is it, 3/4, 25/32, 1 1/8?

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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 1:28 PM Allan Streib via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> 
> It still got permanently swollen on seams where water was accidentally
> allowed to stand. Not talking about a flood, just spills. It happens,
> don't think it won't, especially in kitchens and entryways. I wasn't
> impressed. 
>

The same stuff is everywhere in the house, kitchen and both baths. Zero
issues with standing water affecting the glued seams (weldwood III).
-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

“Basic research is what I’m doing when I don’t know what I am doing.”  Wernher
Von Braun
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
I have (real) oak T in most of my house in the main living areas where there 
isn’t tile (kitchen.) Bedrooms have carpet. Given the choice I wouldnt mess 
with the engineered stuff unless it was a retrofit.

-D

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 4:15 PM, Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Depending on what your house is worth, hardwood in living areas and a quality 
> tile in bathroom is standard for a higher end house. Carpet is nasty, tile 
> anywhere else but bathroom or mud room, or possibly kitchen is also cheap 
> looking. 
> That pergo stuff and laminate stuff is trash as well. But I’m a house snob.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I am thinking of just going back in with carpet where carpet was, and using 
>> the waterproof laminate in the utility and bathroom. Wife things that will 
>> be bad because this is a higher end house and it had carpet, original tile 
>> in master/utility/2nd bathroom, and formal dining room, pergo in kitchen 
>> nook, and slightly different tile at entry front door. Wife things having 
>> more than 2 different flooring types in a house is bad. She wants to do the 
>> pergo thru the whole house that is currently carpeted and in the utility and 
>> bathroom. Using the waterproof stuff is a lot more expensive. Whatever we do 
>> we are thinking about it lasting the next 3 years and for resale. 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 10:34 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Saving any of that floor is a  waste of time then, and at ~$50 per hour you
>>> need to get the job done quickly.  Tile work is probably worth a lot more
>>> than $50 per hour, so material is very cheap compared to labor.  In your
>>> place, I'd do it once and do it right, rip it all up and slap down
>>> waterproof laminate, or put down a real tile floor using the correct
>>> thickness of subfloor and cement backerboard and then quality tile.  IIRC
>>> correctly from when I did our kitchen floor about 15 years ago, the
>>> subfloor and the cement backerboard with the tile cement in between them
>>> end up to be about 3/4 of an inch thick, and very stiff; on top of that is
>>> another layer of cement to hold the tile, and then the tile, so by the time
>>> you are done the sandwich of material is about an inch thick or even more,
>>> very stiff and very strong.
>>> -
>>> Max
>>> Charleston SC
>>> 
>>> 
 On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 10:12 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
 mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 
 PS we have saved enough tiles without breaking them we might be able to
 get away with just pulling up some tiles in the bathroom and replace with
 tiles we have on hand but I’m not really sure I want to deal with trying to
 do that.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
> On Aug 10, 2020, at 8:54 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
 mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> I really doubt it will dry through the tile.  Why not just remove the
 cracked tiles and see what's up?  If you find rot, you must keep removing
 tiles until you find the edges of the rot.
> 
> Sounds like an inferior tile installation (should not crack unless
 severally abused).  Personally I think tile is best in a bathroom, but it
 is hard work to install it correctly.
> 
> Do you have replacement tiles that match?  You might try just finding
 the rot edge, and fixing just that part then putting tile back in the
 patch.  However, if there is no cement backerboard under the tile (bad
 installation) then you need to rip and replace.
> 
> Cement backerboard would have saved the wood subfloor for while, but
 going years with cracked tiles is not reasonable.  Backerboard should also
 make the floor stiff enough so tiles won't crack under normal use.
> 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> 
> Aug 10, 2020 9:23:42 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
 mercedes@okiebenz.com>:
> 
>> As we discovered the toilet was leaking and soaked the area under the
 house including the osb subfloor from the bottom. The flooring in the
 bathroom is ceramic tile. It is mostly in good shape but does have a couple
 of cracked tiles which have been that way for years. I am assuming that
 water probably got in under the tile? I have planned on pulling up all the
 tile, drying it out of wet from above, then see what or if subfloor needs
 to be replaced. Does this seem like the right approach or will the tile
 breathe to dry out any moisture under it? I am thinking the grout with be
 porous and breathable? If we pull it out we would probably go back in with
 one of those waterproof laminate flooring types.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes
Depending on what your house is worth, hardwood in living areas and a quality 
tile in bathroom is standard for a higher end house. Carpet is nasty, tile 
anywhere else but bathroom or mud room, or possibly kitchen is also cheap 
looking. 
That pergo stuff and laminate stuff is trash as well. But I’m a house snob.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am thinking of just going back in with carpet where carpet was, and using 
> the waterproof laminate in the utility and bathroom. Wife things that will be 
> bad because this is a higher end house and it had carpet, original tile in 
> master/utility/2nd bathroom, and formal dining room, pergo in kitchen nook, 
> and slightly different tile at entry front door. Wife things having more than 
> 2 different flooring types in a house is bad. She wants to do the pergo thru 
> the whole house that is currently carpeted and in the utility and bathroom. 
> Using the waterproof stuff is a lot more expensive. Whatever we do we are 
> thinking about it lasting the next 3 years and for resale. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 10:34 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Saving any of that floor is a  waste of time then, and at ~$50 per hour you
>> need to get the job done quickly.  Tile work is probably worth a lot more
>> than $50 per hour, so material is very cheap compared to labor.  In your
>> place, I'd do it once and do it right, rip it all up and slap down
>> waterproof laminate, or put down a real tile floor using the correct
>> thickness of subfloor and cement backerboard and then quality tile.  IIRC
>> correctly from when I did our kitchen floor about 15 years ago, the
>> subfloor and the cement backerboard with the tile cement in between them
>> end up to be about 3/4 of an inch thick, and very stiff; on top of that is
>> another layer of cement to hold the tile, and then the tile, so by the time
>> you are done the sandwich of material is about an inch thick or even more,
>> very stiff and very strong.
>> -
>> Max
>> Charleston SC
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 10:12 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> PS we have saved enough tiles without breaking them we might be able to
>>> get away with just pulling up some tiles in the bathroom and replace with
>>> tiles we have on hand but I’m not really sure I want to deal with trying to
>>> do that.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Aug 10, 2020, at 8:54 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 
 I really doubt it will dry through the tile.  Why not just remove the
>>> cracked tiles and see what's up?  If you find rot, you must keep removing
>>> tiles until you find the edges of the rot.
 
 Sounds like an inferior tile installation (should not crack unless
>>> severally abused).  Personally I think tile is best in a bathroom, but it
>>> is hard work to install it correctly.
 
 Do you have replacement tiles that match?  You might try just finding
>>> the rot edge, and fixing just that part then putting tile back in the
>>> patch.  However, if there is no cement backerboard under the tile (bad
>>> installation) then you need to rip and replace.
 
 Cement backerboard would have saved the wood subfloor for while, but
>>> going years with cracked tiles is not reasonable.  Backerboard should also
>>> make the floor stiff enough so tiles won't crack under normal use.
 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 
 Aug 10, 2020 9:23:42 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>:
 
> As we discovered the toilet was leaking and soaked the area under the
>>> house including the osb subfloor from the bottom. The flooring in the
>>> bathroom is ceramic tile. It is mostly in good shape but does have a couple
>>> of cracked tiles which have been that way for years. I am assuming that
>>> water probably got in under the tile? I have planned on pulling up all the
>>> tile, drying it out of wet from above, then see what or if subfloor needs
>>> to be replaced. Does this seem like the right approach or will the tile
>>> breathe to dry out any moisture under it? I am thinking the grout with be
>>> porous and breathable? If we pull it out we would probably go back in with
>>> one of those waterproof laminate flooring types.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
Yes, my parent's house built in the 1960s has oak floors throughout
(except kitchen and utility rooms), and it's a basic ranch house in a
subdivision, dozens exactly like it in the neighborhood.

Allan

Dan Penoff via Mercedes  writes:

> All things considered, I would do solid oak floors (with the exception of the 
> bathroom and laundry room of course.) I used to do solid oak flooring as a 
> side gig many, many years ago. I knew a guy who did the finishing and we 
> teamed up to do floors as a side gig after work and on weekends. T oak 
> floors were very common in central Indiana at the time, so we had no problem 
> getting work. We might do 6-8 homes a year, not a lot, because it was more 
> fun and a way to earn some spending money without running a full blown 
> business.
>
> Solid oak floors are pretty easy to put down as long as the substrate they’re 
> going on is good. That’s half the work. With a good substrate laying down  
> oak T can go pretty fast and isn’t terribly difficult to do, especially 
> with an air nailer. It’s the finish work that takes time.
>
> -D
>
>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:28 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> It still has to be specifically waterproof, Pergo or not. Maybe all
>> Pergo is waterproof these days. Back in about 1998 I had a continuous
>> kitchen/living room/entryway floor done in Pergo. Professionally
>> installed, glued seams, etc.
>> 
>> It still got permanently swollen on seams where water was accidentally
>> allowed to stand. Not talking about a flood, just spills. It happens,
>> don't think it won't, especially in kitchens and entryways. I wasn't
>> impressed.
>> 
>> If I were to install laminate again, I would only install 100%
>> guaranteed waterproof laminate, regardess of where in the house it is
>> going.
>> 
>> One other downside of all tile and laminate floors is the house will be
>> noisy. In addition to dirt and pet stains, carpet absorbs a lot of
>> sound.
>> 
>> 
>> Dan Penoff via Mercedes  writes:
>> 
>>> If I was doing laminate, and I have before, I would only use Pergo. 
>>> Everything else is junk. Yes, it’s expensive, but the old adage of “You get 
>>> what you pay for” definitely rings true with this stuff.
>>> 
>>> -D
>>> 
 On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:41 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
  wrote:
 
 Real actual Pergo brand laminate flooring is amazing. We looked at a house 
 where the pipes had frozen and leaked. The whole house stank, the ceiling 
 fans were drooping flowers, the paint was coming off the walls. The Pergo 
 flooring was absolutely perfect. It hadn't buckled or de-laminated, there 
 was no sign of it having any problem despite a very high humidity. If I 
 were going to do laminate floors, for a house I was going to live in, I'd 
 pay the premium for it every time.
 -Curt
 
   On Monday, August 10, 2020, 12:24:37 PM EDT, fmiser via Mercedes 
  wrote:  
 
> Kaleb wrote:
 
> She wants to do the pergo thru the whole house that is currently
> carpeted and in the utility and bathroom. 
 
 Pergo isn't waterproof - right?
 
 Using that in the bathroom and by the washing machine is as silly
 as using carpet in those places.  There _will_ be water on the
 floor!
 

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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
All things considered, I would do solid oak floors (with the exception of the 
bathroom and laundry room of course.) I used to do solid oak flooring as a side 
gig many, many years ago. I knew a guy who did the finishing and we teamed up 
to do floors as a side gig after work and on weekends. T oak floors were very 
common in central Indiana at the time, so we had no problem getting work. We 
might do 6-8 homes a year, not a lot, because it was more fun and a way to earn 
some spending money without running a full blown business.

Solid oak floors are pretty easy to put down as long as the substrate they’re 
going on is good. That’s half the work. With a good substrate laying down  oak 
T can go pretty fast and isn’t terribly difficult to do, especially with an 
air nailer. It’s the finish work that takes time.

-D

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:28 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> It still has to be specifically waterproof, Pergo or not. Maybe all
> Pergo is waterproof these days. Back in about 1998 I had a continuous
> kitchen/living room/entryway floor done in Pergo. Professionally
> installed, glued seams, etc.
> 
> It still got permanently swollen on seams where water was accidentally
> allowed to stand. Not talking about a flood, just spills. It happens,
> don't think it won't, especially in kitchens and entryways. I wasn't
> impressed.
> 
> If I were to install laminate again, I would only install 100%
> guaranteed waterproof laminate, regardess of where in the house it is
> going.
> 
> One other downside of all tile and laminate floors is the house will be
> noisy. In addition to dirt and pet stains, carpet absorbs a lot of
> sound.
> 
> 
> Dan Penoff via Mercedes  writes:
> 
>> If I was doing laminate, and I have before, I would only use Pergo. 
>> Everything else is junk. Yes, it’s expensive, but the old adage of “You get 
>> what you pay for” definitely rings true with this stuff.
>> 
>> -D
>> 
>>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:41 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Real actual Pergo brand laminate flooring is amazing. We looked at a house 
>>> where the pipes had frozen and leaked. The whole house stank, the ceiling 
>>> fans were drooping flowers, the paint was coming off the walls. The Pergo 
>>> flooring was absolutely perfect. It hadn't buckled or de-laminated, there 
>>> was no sign of it having any problem despite a very high humidity. If I 
>>> were going to do laminate floors, for a house I was going to live in, I'd 
>>> pay the premium for it every time.
>>> -Curt
>>> 
>>>   On Monday, August 10, 2020, 12:24:37 PM EDT, fmiser via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:  
>>> 
 Kaleb wrote:
>>> 
 She wants to do the pergo thru the whole house that is currently
 carpeted and in the utility and bathroom. 
>>> 
>>> Pergo isn't waterproof - right?
>>> 
>>> Using that in the bathroom and by the washing machine is as silly
>>> as using carpet in those places.  There _will_ be water on the
>>> floor!
>>> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
It still has to be specifically waterproof, Pergo or not. Maybe all
Pergo is waterproof these days. Back in about 1998 I had a continuous
kitchen/living room/entryway floor done in Pergo. Professionally
installed, glued seams, etc.

It still got permanently swollen on seams where water was accidentally
allowed to stand. Not talking about a flood, just spills. It happens,
don't think it won't, especially in kitchens and entryways. I wasn't
impressed.

If I were to install laminate again, I would only install 100%
guaranteed waterproof laminate, regardess of where in the house it is
going.

One other downside of all tile and laminate floors is the house will be
noisy. In addition to dirt and pet stains, carpet absorbs a lot of
sound.


Dan Penoff via Mercedes  writes:

> If I was doing laminate, and I have before, I would only use Pergo. 
> Everything else is junk. Yes, it’s expensive, but the old adage of “You get 
> what you pay for” definitely rings true with this stuff.
>
> -D
>
>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:41 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Real actual Pergo brand laminate flooring is amazing. We looked at a house 
>> where the pipes had frozen and leaked. The whole house stank, the ceiling 
>> fans were drooping flowers, the paint was coming off the walls. The Pergo 
>> flooring was absolutely perfect. It hadn't buckled or de-laminated, there 
>> was no sign of it having any problem despite a very high humidity. If I were 
>> going to do laminate floors, for a house I was going to live in, I'd pay the 
>> premium for it every time.
>> -Curt
>> 
>>On Monday, August 10, 2020, 12:24:37 PM EDT, fmiser via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:  
>> 
>>> Kaleb wrote:
>> 
>>> She wants to do the pergo thru the whole house that is currently
>>> carpeted and in the utility and bathroom. 
>> 
>> Pergo isn't waterproof - right?
>> 
>> Using that in the bathroom and by the washing machine is as silly
>> as using carpet in those places.  There _will_ be water on the
>> floor!
>> 

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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
I don’t remember if we used pergo or a different brand in the kitchen nook but 
after 3 years of their abuse it still looks perfect. If I were moving in myself 
it would be no question but not sure on a house we are just going to sell in 3 
years. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:02 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> If I was doing laminate, and I have before, I would only use Pergo. 
> Everything else is junk. Yes, it’s expensive, but the old adage of “You get 
> what you pay for” definitely rings true with this stuff.
> 
> -D
> 
>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:41 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Real actual Pergo brand laminate flooring is amazing. We looked at a house 
>> where the pipes had frozen and leaked. The whole house stank, the ceiling 
>> fans were drooping flowers, the paint was coming off the walls. The Pergo 
>> flooring was absolutely perfect. It hadn't buckled or de-laminated, there 
>> was no sign of it having any problem despite a very high humidity. If I were 
>> going to do laminate floors, for a house I was going to live in, I'd pay the 
>> premium for it every time.
>> -Curt
>> 
>>>   On Monday, August 10, 2020, 12:24:37 PM EDT, fmiser via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:  
>>> 
>>> Kaleb wrote:
>> 
>>> She wants to do the pergo thru the whole house that is currently
>>> carpeted and in the utility and bathroom. 
>> 
>> Pergo isn't waterproof - right?
>> 
>> Using that in the bathroom and by the washing machine is as silly
>> as using carpet in those places.  There _will_ be water on the
>> floor!
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
They have waterproof versions

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 11:24 AM, fmiser via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> 
>> 
>> Kaleb wrote:
> 
>> She wants to do the pergo thru the whole house that is currently
>> carpeted and in the utility and bathroom. 
> 
> Pergo isn't waterproof - right?
> 
> Using that in the bathroom and by the washing machine is as silly
> as using carpet in those places.  There _will_ be water on the
> floor!
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
If I was doing laminate, and I have before, I would only use Pergo. Everything 
else is junk. Yes, it’s expensive, but the old adage of “You get what you pay 
for” definitely rings true with this stuff.

-D

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:41 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Real actual Pergo brand laminate flooring is amazing. We looked at a house 
> where the pipes had frozen and leaked. The whole house stank, the ceiling 
> fans were drooping flowers, the paint was coming off the walls. The Pergo 
> flooring was absolutely perfect. It hadn't buckled or de-laminated, there was 
> no sign of it having any problem despite a very high humidity. If I were 
> going to do laminate floors, for a house I was going to live in, I'd pay the 
> premium for it every time.
> -Curt
> 
>On Monday, August 10, 2020, 12:24:37 PM EDT, fmiser via Mercedes 
>  wrote:  
> 
>> Kaleb wrote:
> 
>> She wants to do the pergo thru the whole house that is currently
>> carpeted and in the utility and bathroom. 
> 
> Pergo isn't waterproof - right?
> 
> Using that in the bathroom and by the washing machine is as silly
> as using carpet in those places.  There _will_ be water on the
> floor!
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 Real actual Pergo brand laminate flooring is amazing. We looked at a house 
where the pipes had frozen and leaked. The whole house stank, the ceiling fans 
were drooping flowers, the paint was coming off the walls. The Pergo flooring 
was absolutely perfect. It hadn't buckled or de-laminated, there was no sign of 
it having any problem despite a very high humidity. If I were going to do 
laminate floors, for a house I was going to live in, I'd pay the premium for it 
every time.
-Curt

On Monday, August 10, 2020, 12:24:37 PM EDT, fmiser via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 > Kaleb wrote:

> She wants to do the pergo thru the whole house that is currently
> carpeted and in the utility and bathroom. 

Pergo isn't waterproof - right?

Using that in the bathroom and by the washing machine is as silly
as using carpet in those places.  There _will_ be water on the
floor!

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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
We used non-waterproff laminate flooring when we bought this house
throughout the entire house. I glued the joints in the kitchen and both
baths with Weldwood III waterproof glue, thinking that it would protect the
flooring. A few months later the wife decided to fill a jacuzzi  tube,
forgot it, and let it overflow. The bathroom floor where I'd glued the
joints was untouched. Where the water flowed out into the bedroom had
swollen joints. They eventually dried out and went back to normal. You
can't tell it happened now.
That glue did the trick to make the laminate waterproof though ...

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 11:24 AM fmiser via Mercedes 
wrote:

> > Kaleb wrote:
>
> > She wants to do the pergo thru the whole house that is currently
> > carpeted and in the utility and bathroom.
>
> Pergo isn't waterproof - right?
>
> Using that in the bathroom and by the washing machine is as silly
> as using carpet in those places.  There _will_ be water on the
> floor!
>
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>
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>

-- 
OK Don

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pause and reflect." Mark Twain

“Basic research is what I’m doing when I don’t know what I am doing.”  Wernher
Von Braun
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
> Kaleb wrote:

> She wants to do the pergo thru the whole house that is currently
> carpeted and in the utility and bathroom. 

Pergo isn't waterproof - right?

Using that in the bathroom and by the washing machine is as silly
as using carpet in those places.  There _will_ be water on the
floor!

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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
I am thinking of just going back in with carpet where carpet was, and using the 
waterproof laminate in the utility and bathroom. Wife things that will be bad 
because this is a higher end house and it had carpet, original tile in 
master/utility/2nd bathroom, and formal dining room, pergo in kitchen nook, and 
slightly different tile at entry front door. Wife things having more than 2 
different flooring types in a house is bad. She wants to do the pergo thru the 
whole house that is currently carpeted and in the utility and bathroom. Using 
the waterproof stuff is a lot more expensive. Whatever we do we are thinking 
about it lasting the next 3 years and for resale. 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 10:34 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Saving any of that floor is a  waste of time then, and at ~$50 per hour you
> need to get the job done quickly.  Tile work is probably worth a lot more
> than $50 per hour, so material is very cheap compared to labor.  In your
> place, I'd do it once and do it right, rip it all up and slap down
> waterproof laminate, or put down a real tile floor using the correct
> thickness of subfloor and cement backerboard and then quality tile.  IIRC
> correctly from when I did our kitchen floor about 15 years ago, the
> subfloor and the cement backerboard with the tile cement in between them
> end up to be about 3/4 of an inch thick, and very stiff; on top of that is
> another layer of cement to hold the tile, and then the tile, so by the time
> you are done the sandwich of material is about an inch thick or even more,
> very stiff and very strong.
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 10:12 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> PS we have saved enough tiles without breaking them we might be able to
>> get away with just pulling up some tiles in the bathroom and replace with
>> tiles we have on hand but I’m not really sure I want to deal with trying to
>> do that.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 8:54 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I really doubt it will dry through the tile.  Why not just remove the
>> cracked tiles and see what's up?  If you find rot, you must keep removing
>> tiles until you find the edges of the rot.
>>> 
>>> Sounds like an inferior tile installation (should not crack unless
>> severally abused).  Personally I think tile is best in a bathroom, but it
>> is hard work to install it correctly.
>>> 
>>> Do you have replacement tiles that match?  You might try just finding
>> the rot edge, and fixing just that part then putting tile back in the
>> patch.  However, if there is no cement backerboard under the tile (bad
>> installation) then you need to rip and replace.
>>> 
>>> Cement backerboard would have saved the wood subfloor for while, but
>> going years with cracked tiles is not reasonable.  Backerboard should also
>> make the floor stiff enough so tiles won't crack under normal use.
>>> 
>>> Max Dillon
>>> Charleston SC
>>> 
>>> Aug 10, 2020 9:23:42 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>:
>>> 
 As we discovered the toilet was leaking and soaked the area under the
>> house including the osb subfloor from the bottom. The flooring in the
>> bathroom is ceramic tile. It is mostly in good shape but does have a couple
>> of cracked tiles which have been that way for years. I am assuming that
>> water probably got in under the tile? I have planned on pulling up all the
>> tile, drying it out of wet from above, then see what or if subfloor needs
>> to be replaced. Does this seem like the right approach or will the tile
>> breathe to dry out any moisture under it? I am thinking the grout with be
>> porous and breathable? If we pull it out we would probably go back in with
>> one of those waterproof laminate flooring types.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Meade Dillon via Mercedes
Saving any of that floor is a  waste of time then, and at ~$50 per hour you
need to get the job done quickly.  Tile work is probably worth a lot more
than $50 per hour, so material is very cheap compared to labor.  In your
place, I'd do it once and do it right, rip it all up and slap down
waterproof laminate, or put down a real tile floor using the correct
thickness of subfloor and cement backerboard and then quality tile.  IIRC
correctly from when I did our kitchen floor about 15 years ago, the
subfloor and the cement backerboard with the tile cement in between them
end up to be about 3/4 of an inch thick, and very stiff; on top of that is
another layer of cement to hold the tile, and then the tile, so by the time
you are done the sandwich of material is about an inch thick or even more,
very stiff and very strong.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 10:12 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> PS we have saved enough tiles without breaking them we might be able to
> get away with just pulling up some tiles in the bathroom and replace with
> tiles we have on hand but I’m not really sure I want to deal with trying to
> do that.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 10, 2020, at 8:54 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > I really doubt it will dry through the tile.  Why not just remove the
> cracked tiles and see what's up?  If you find rot, you must keep removing
> tiles until you find the edges of the rot.
> >
> > Sounds like an inferior tile installation (should not crack unless
> severally abused).  Personally I think tile is best in a bathroom, but it
> is hard work to install it correctly.
> >
> > Do you have replacement tiles that match?  You might try just finding
> the rot edge, and fixing just that part then putting tile back in the
> patch.  However, if there is no cement backerboard under the tile (bad
> installation) then you need to rip and replace.
> >
> > Cement backerboard would have saved the wood subfloor for while, but
> going years with cracked tiles is not reasonable.  Backerboard should also
> make the floor stiff enough so tiles won't crack under normal use.
> >
> > Max Dillon
> > Charleston SC
> >
> > Aug 10, 2020 9:23:42 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>:
> >
> >> As we discovered the toilet was leaking and soaked the area under the
> house including the osb subfloor from the bottom. The flooring in the
> bathroom is ceramic tile. It is mostly in good shape but does have a couple
> of cracked tiles which have been that way for years. I am assuming that
> water probably got in under the tile? I have planned on pulling up all the
> tile, drying it out of wet from above, then see what or if subfloor needs
> to be replaced. Does this seem like the right approach or will the tile
> breathe to dry out any moisture under it? I am thinking the grout with be
> porous and breathable? If we pull it out we would probably go back in with
> one of those waterproof laminate flooring types.
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 You gotta clean the place up and sell that albatross. Use the time you free up 
for something good, like fixing cars.
-Curt

On Monday, August 10, 2020, 10:12:00 AM EDT, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 PS we have saved enough tiles without breaking them we might be able to get 
away with just pulling up some tiles in the bathroom and replace with tiles we 
have on hand but I’m not really sure I want to deal with trying to do that. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 8:54 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I really doubt it will dry through the tile.  Why not just remove the 
> cracked tiles and see what's up?  If you find rot, you must keep removing 
> tiles until you find the edges of the rot.
> 
> Sounds like an inferior tile installation (should not crack unless severally 
> abused).  Personally I think tile is best in a bathroom, but it is hard work 
> to install it correctly.
> 
> Do you have replacement tiles that match?  You might try just finding the rot 
> edge, and fixing just that part then putting tile back in the patch.  
> However, if there is no cement backerboard under the tile (bad installation) 
> then you need to rip and replace.
> 
> Cement backerboard would have saved the wood subfloor for while, but going 
> years with cracked tiles is not reasonable.  Backerboard should also make the 
> floor stiff enough so tiles won't crack under normal use.
> 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> 
> Aug 10, 2020 9:23:42 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :
> 
>> As we discovered the toilet was leaking and soaked the area under the house 
>> including the osb subfloor from the bottom. The flooring in the bathroom is 
>> ceramic tile. It is mostly in good shape but does have a couple of cracked 
>> tiles which have been that way for years. I am assuming that water probably 
>> got in under the tile? I have planned on pulling up all the tile, drying it 
>> out of wet from above, then see what or if subfloor needs to be replaced. 
>> Does this seem like the right approach or will the tile breathe to dry out 
>> any moisture under it? I am thinking the grout with be porous and 
>> breathable? If we pull it out we would probably go back in with one of those 
>> waterproof laminate flooring types.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
PS we have saved enough tiles without breaking them we might be able to get 
away with just pulling up some tiles in the bathroom and replace with tiles we 
have on hand but I’m not really sure I want to deal with trying to do that. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 8:54 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I really doubt it will dry through the tile.  Why not just remove the 
> cracked tiles and see what's up?  If you find rot, you must keep removing 
> tiles until you find the edges of the rot.
> 
> Sounds like an inferior tile installation (should not crack unless severally 
> abused).  Personally I think tile is best in a bathroom, but it is hard work 
> to install it correctly.
> 
> Do you have replacement tiles that match?  You might try just finding the rot 
> edge, and fixing just that part then putting tile back in the patch.  
> However, if there is no cement backerboard under the tile (bad installation) 
> then you need to rip and replace.
> 
> Cement backerboard would have saved the wood subfloor for while, but going 
> years with cracked tiles is not reasonable.  Backerboard should also make the 
> floor stiff enough so tiles won't crack under normal use.
> 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> 
> Aug 10, 2020 9:23:42 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :
> 
>> As we discovered the toilet was leaking and soaked the area under the house 
>> including the osb subfloor from the bottom. The flooring in the bathroom is 
>> ceramic tile. It is mostly in good shape but does have a couple of cracked 
>> tiles which have been that way for years. I am assuming that water probably 
>> got in under the tile? I have planned on pulling up all the tile, drying it 
>> out of wet from above, then see what or if subfloor needs to be replaced. 
>> Does this seem like the right approach or will the tile breathe to dry out 
>> any moisture under it? I am thinking the grout with be porous and 
>> breathable? If we pull it out we would probably go back in with one of those 
>> waterproof laminate flooring types.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
When they installed the tile in this house when it was built they apparently 
installed it directly on the osb subfloor. As a result we have had tiles thru 
the entire house crack over the years. Can’t find a match anymore so when we 
had to pull up the flooring in the kitchen nook area we ended up segmenting 
that off and doing laminate wood there which looked good. About 10 years before 
that we had another issue at the front door and we put tile back down but used 
a sort of contrasting color to make it look like a separate entry hall next to 
the adjoining formal dining room. The tile in there is still good. Eventually 
all the tile will need to probably be replaced 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 8:54 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I really doubt it will dry through the tile.  Why not just remove the 
> cracked tiles and see what's up?  If you find rot, you must keep removing 
> tiles until you find the edges of the rot.
> 
> Sounds like an inferior tile installation (should not crack unless severally 
> abused).  Personally I think tile is best in a bathroom, but it is hard work 
> to install it correctly.
> 
> Do you have replacement tiles that match?  You might try just finding the rot 
> edge, and fixing just that part then putting tile back in the patch.  
> However, if there is no cement backerboard under the tile (bad installation) 
> then you need to rip and replace.
> 
> Cement backerboard would have saved the wood subfloor for while, but going 
> years with cracked tiles is not reasonable.  Backerboard should also make the 
> floor stiff enough so tiles won't crack under normal use.
> 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> 
> Aug 10, 2020 9:23:42 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :
> 
>> As we discovered the toilet was leaking and soaked the area under the house 
>> including the osb subfloor from the bottom. The flooring in the bathroom is 
>> ceramic tile. It is mostly in good shape but does have a couple of cracked 
>> tiles which have been that way for years. I am assuming that water probably 
>> got in under the tile? I have planned on pulling up all the tile, drying it 
>> out of wet from above, then see what or if subfloor needs to be replaced. 
>> Does this seem like the right approach or will the tile breathe to dry out 
>> any moisture under it? I am thinking the grout with be porous and 
>> breathable? If we pull it out we would probably go back in with one of those 
>> waterproof laminate flooring types.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
I really doubt it will dry through the tile.  Why not just remove the cracked 
tiles and see what's up?  If you find rot, you must keep removing tiles until 
you find the edges of the rot.

Sounds like an inferior tile installation (should not crack unless severally 
abused).  Personally I think tile is best in a bathroom, but it is hard work to 
install it correctly.

Do you have replacement tiles that match?  You might try just finding the rot 
edge, and fixing just that part then putting tile back in the patch.  However, 
if there is no cement backerboard under the tile (bad installation) then you 
need to rip and replace.

Cement backerboard would have saved the wood subfloor for while, but going 
years with cracked tiles is not reasonable.  Backerboard should also make the 
floor stiff enough so tiles won't crack under normal use.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Aug 10, 2020 9:23:42 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :

> As we discovered the toilet was leaking and soaked the area under the house 
> including the osb subfloor from the bottom. The flooring in the bathroom is 
> ceramic tile. It is mostly in good shape but does have a couple of cracked 
> tiles which have been that way for years. I am assuming that water probably 
> got in under the tile? I have planned on pulling up all the tile, drying it 
> out of wet from above, then see what or if subfloor needs to be replaced. 
> Does this seem like the right approach or will the tile breathe to dry out 
> any moisture under it? I am thinking the grout with be porous and breathable? 
> If we pull it out we would probably go back in with one of those waterproof 
> laminate flooring types.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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[MBZ] Opinions needed on flooring

2020-08-10 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
As we discovered the toilet was leaking and soaked the area under the house 
including the osb subfloor from the bottom. The flooring in the bathroom is 
ceramic tile. It is mostly in good shape but does have a couple of cracked 
tiles which have been that way for years. I am assuming that water probably got 
in under the tile? I have planned on pulling up all the tile, drying it out of 
wet from above, then see what or if subfloor needs to be replaced. Does this 
seem like the right approach or will the tile breathe to dry out any moisture 
under it? I am thinking the grout with be porous and breathable? If we pull it 
out we would probably go back in with one of those waterproof laminate flooring 
types. 

Sent from my iPhone

___
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To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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