Re: [MBZ] W210.025/OM606.962 delivery valves (finished!) -- HOWTO
Thanks! What sort of noise does a badly-torqued valve make? -j.
Re: [MBZ] W210.025/OM606.962 delivery valves (finished!) -- HOWTO
John W. Reames III wrote: Thanks! What sort of noise does a badly-torqued valve make? -j. Clack, clack, clack.plus whatever sound YOUR engine makes when one (or more) cylinder isn't properly supplied with fuel. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi
Re: [MBZ] W210.025/OM606.962 delivery valves (finished!) -- HOWTO
Nice write-up! A keeper - thanks! On 1/20/06, John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: A few weeks ago I was asking about this job... I finished it, and it wasn't that bad (I'm kicking myself for not taking photos though!) It took me less than four hours for this job and that included running out to get the T-40. The 4 hours that the labor guide quotes is generous, certainly... If anyone has any thoughts/comments on this, lemme know. Parts: 7x 603 078 01 41 (Injection pipe clips) 7x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe shims--trim them on one side) 2x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe clips) 1x 606 141 01 80 (Intake manifold gasket) 6x 017 997 41 48 (Bosch 1-460-210-321 O-ring, you may want spares) 6x 004 997 45 40 (Bosch 1-410-105-021 Copper seal washer) (These are the same rings as used on a 602 or 603 engine.) Tools: -8mm socket or nutrunner -10mm socket -6mm hex bit socket -T-30 socket -T-40 socket -13mm *special* crowsfoot 000 589 77 03 00 -32/33 spline *special* socket 617 589 01 09 00 -a dental pick or similar to aid in removal of seal rings and washers -some sort of zero residue aerosol cleaner (carb cleaner or electronics cleaner) -Torque wrenches capable of 10Nm - 35Nm -A box of rags (like the ones they sell at home depot, Scott Brand) misc extensions and ratchets and adapters (3/8-1/2 bushing, 3/8-1/4 reducer) -a can of clean oil (I used clear fine machine oil) or diesel fuel Instructions: -The first thing you want to do is jack the car up and remove at least the middle underpan (8mm hex head 4 places) -You will need to remove the bolt fastening the charge air cooler pipe to the EGR valve on the bottom of the intake manifold (Mine was missing!) as well as the clamp holding the EGR tube to the manifold/EGR valve (10mm bolt). -Put the car back down on the ground and remove the plastic oversheild on the valve cover (6mm hex bit, 8 screws) -Now is a good time to clean all the accumulated gunk off the top of the engine while everything is still closed up. -Remove the two 10mm bolts secureing the oil separator to the top of the engine (over #5 injector) and carefully remove the separator and breather tube. (You might want to stick a bit of rag into the open tube ends on the engine) -Remove the T-40 head manifold bolts (14 places, I think). There is one hiding under the lifting eye back by #5 or #6. -Gently lift the manifold free, disconnecting the vacuum control line and the boost pressure sensing line from the valve. Be cautious of the little plastic clamp on the boost line. You may want to fill the manifold with some cleaner to let it soak while you work -Carefully slide the intake manifold gasket out (to the front of the engine), noting its orientation. -Stuff CLEAN lint-free rags into each intake ports and the intercooler pipe to keep crud out of them. -Clean off the top of the injection pump (carb cleaner, etc). -Make a diagram of where the injection lines go, and more importantly, how the various clips attach to them. Take note of how the first two lines run around the low pressure fuel and injection bypass hoses. -Remove all of the clips from the injection lines. 80% or more will likely break. -Loosen the injection line nuts and remove the injection lines. The special crowsfoot (13mm) above really makes it much easier on the engine side. -Remove the three T-30 screws that secure the delivery valve lock rings to the injection pump. Take note of how the lock rings are laying on the pump. -Remove all of the lock rings. -Clean the top of the IP again--pay special attention to around the delivery valves. *** -Using the special spline socket, loosen the first delivery valve holder. Unscrew it by hand and SLOWLY lift the valve holder, being careful to not let the spring get lost/drop out or pull the valve from inside the pump. -Use the (CLEAN) pick to remove the copper seal ring from the top of the assembly that was under the valve holder. -Carefully lower a new copper seal ring onto the assembly. Try to keep the ring and assembly more or less centered within the bore -Remove the O-ring from the outside of the valve holder. Use carb cleaner or similar to clean all the crud off the outside of the body (don't flush it inside!) -Fit a new O-Ring onto the delivery valve body. Put a few drops of oin on the threads of the valve and on each side of the O-Ring, ensuring that the ring is well-oiled. -Thread the delivery valve body into the IP by hand, being cautious of the valve assembly and the spring. (The spring should seat on top of the valve assembly into the pump), and the O-ring should not be pinched. -Using a torque wrench and the spline socket, torque the delivery valve holder to 30Nm (22 ft-lb). -Loosen the valve body maybe 1/8 turn (just enough to remove the torque/pressure) and re-torque to 30Nm/22ft-lbs. -Repeat the above step (This makes 3x torquing to 30Nm/22ft-lbs)
Re: [MBZ] W210.025/OM606.962 delivery valves (finished!) -- HOWTO
A great write-up John. I've done the job on an SDL and your instructions would have been a treasure at that time. It goes in my vault for future use. Thanks for taking the time to share. Harry Watkins Newton, MS 86 SDL Silver 85 300D Euro 86 SDL Gold 81 240D manual trans - Original Message - From: John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 4:50 PM Subject: [MBZ] W210.025/OM606.962 delivery valves (finished!) -- HOWTO A few weeks ago I was asking about this job... I finished it, and it wasn't that bad (I'm kicking myself for not taking photos though!) It took me less than four hours for this job and that included running out to get the T-40. The 4 hours that the labor guide quotes is generous, certainly... If anyone has any thoughts/comments on this, lemme know. Parts: 7x 603 078 01 41 (Injection pipe clips) 7x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe shims--trim them on one side) 2x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe clips) 1x 606 141 01 80 (Intake manifold gasket) 6x 017 997 41 48 (Bosch 1-460-210-321 O-ring, you may want spares) 6x 004 997 45 40 (Bosch 1-410-105-021 Copper seal washer) (These are the same rings as used on a 602 or 603 engine.) Tools: -8mm socket or nutrunner -10mm socket -6mm hex bit socket -T-30 socket -T-40 socket -13mm *special* crowsfoot 000 589 77 03 00 -32/33 spline *special* socket 617 589 01 09 00 -a dental pick or similar to aid in removal of seal rings and washers -some sort of zero residue aerosol cleaner (carb cleaner or electronics cleaner) -Torque wrenches capable of 10Nm - 35Nm -A box of rags (like the ones they sell at home depot, Scott Brand) misc extensions and ratchets and adapters (3/8-1/2 bushing, 3/8-1/4 reducer) -a can of clean oil (I used clear fine machine oil) or diesel fuel Instructions: -The first thing you want to do is jack the car up and remove at least the middle underpan (8mm hex head 4 places) -You will need to remove the bolt fastening the charge air cooler pipe to the EGR valve on the bottom of the intake manifold (Mine was missing!) as well as the clamp holding the EGR tube to the manifold/EGR valve (10mm bolt). -Put the car back down on the ground and remove the plastic oversheild on the valve cover (6mm hex bit, 8 screws) -Now is a good time to clean all the accumulated gunk off the top of the engine while everything is still closed up. -Remove the two 10mm bolts secureing the oil separator to the top of the engine (over #5 injector) and carefully remove the separator and breather tube. (You might want to stick a bit of rag into the open tube ends on the engine) -Remove the T-40 head manifold bolts (14 places, I think). There is one hiding under the lifting eye back by #5 or #6. -Gently lift the manifold free, disconnecting the vacuum control line and the boost pressure sensing line from the valve. Be cautious of the little plastic clamp on the boost line. You may want to fill the manifold with some cleaner to let it soak while you work -Carefully slide the intake manifold gasket out (to the front of the engine), noting its orientation. -Stuff CLEAN lint-free rags into each intake ports and the intercooler pipe to keep crud out of them. -Clean off the top of the injection pump (carb cleaner, etc). -Make a diagram of where the injection lines go, and more importantly, how the various clips attach to them. Take note of how the first two lines run around the low pressure fuel and injection bypass hoses. -Remove all of the clips from the injection lines. 80% or more will likely break. -Loosen the injection line nuts and remove the injection lines. The special crowsfoot (13mm) above really makes it much easier on the engine side. -Remove the three T-30 screws that secure the delivery valve lock rings to the injection pump. Take note of how the lock rings are laying on the pump. -Remove all of the lock rings. -Clean the top of the IP again--pay special attention to around the delivery valves. *** -Using the special spline socket, loosen the first delivery valve holder. Unscrew it by hand and SLOWLY lift the valve holder, being careful to not let the spring get lost/drop out or pull the valve from inside the pump. -Use the (CLEAN) pick to remove the copper seal ring from the top of the assembly that was under the valve holder. -Carefully lower a new copper seal ring onto the assembly. Try to keep the ring and assembly more or less centered within the bore -Remove the O-ring from the outside of the valve holder. Use carb cleaner or similar to clean all the crud off the outside of the body (don't flush it inside!) -Fit a new O-Ring onto the delivery valve body. Put a few drops of oin on the threads of the valve and on each side of the O-Ring, ensuring that the ring is well-oiled. -Thread the delivery valve body into the IP by hand, being cautious of the valve assembly and the spring
Re: [MBZ] W210.025/OM606.962 delivery valves (finished!) -- HOWTO
Nice writeup. One caution. Even if you torque the delivery valves PERFECTLY, they might still distort the injection pump body. That will cause noise (and damage if not promptly corrected) and result in incorrect/uneven fuel delivery. The cure is to loosen and re-torque the delivery valve for the cylinder that's misfiring. valve. Even experienced pros using a torque wrench seem to distort the pump maybe 1 out of 10 times (I'm told) and need to loosen and retighten the valve. It may be that the earlier OM60x pumps are more touchy about this than the later ones and I KNOW that the 6 cylinder versions are much worse than the 4 or 5 cylinder pumps. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi
[MBZ] W210.025/OM606.962 delivery valves (finished!) -- HOWTO
A few weeks ago I was asking about this job... I finished it, and it wasn't that bad (I'm kicking myself for not taking photos though!) It took me less than four hours for this job and that included running out to get the T-40. The 4 hours that the labor guide quotes is generous, certainly... If anyone has any thoughts/comments on this, lemme know. Parts: 7x 603 078 01 41 (Injection pipe clips) 7x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe shims--trim them on one side) 2x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe clips) 1x 606 141 01 80 (Intake manifold gasket) 6x 017 997 41 48 (Bosch 1-460-210-321 O-ring, you may want spares) 6x 004 997 45 40 (Bosch 1-410-105-021 Copper seal washer) (These are the same rings as used on a 602 or 603 engine.) Tools: -8mm socket or nutrunner -10mm socket -6mm hex bit socket -T-30 socket -T-40 socket -13mm *special* crowsfoot 000 589 77 03 00 -32/33 spline *special* socket 617 589 01 09 00 -a dental pick or similar to aid in removal of seal rings and washers -some sort of zero residue aerosol cleaner (carb cleaner or electronics cleaner) -Torque wrenches capable of 10Nm - 35Nm -A box of rags (like the ones they sell at home depot, Scott Brand) misc extensions and ratchets and adapters (3/8-1/2 bushing, 3/8-1/4 reducer) -a can of clean oil (I used clear fine machine oil) or diesel fuel Instructions: -The first thing you want to do is jack the car up and remove at least the middle underpan (8mm hex head 4 places) -You will need to remove the bolt fastening the charge air cooler pipe to the EGR valve on the bottom of the intake manifold (Mine was missing!) as well as the clamp holding the EGR tube to the manifold/EGR valve (10mm bolt). -Put the car back down on the ground and remove the plastic oversheild on the valve cover (6mm hex bit, 8 screws) -Now is a good time to clean all the accumulated gunk off the top of the engine while everything is still closed up. -Remove the two 10mm bolts secureing the oil separator to the top of the engine (over #5 injector) and carefully remove the separator and breather tube. (You might want to stick a bit of rag into the open tube ends on the engine) -Remove the T-40 head manifold bolts (14 places, I think). There is one hiding under the lifting eye back by #5 or #6. -Gently lift the manifold free, disconnecting the vacuum control line and the boost pressure sensing line from the valve. Be cautious of the little plastic clamp on the boost line. You may want to fill the manifold with some cleaner to let it soak while you work -Carefully slide the intake manifold gasket out (to the front of the engine), noting its orientation. -Stuff CLEAN lint-free rags into each intake ports and the intercooler pipe to keep crud out of them. -Clean off the top of the injection pump (carb cleaner, etc). -Make a diagram of where the injection lines go, and more importantly, how the various clips attach to them. Take note of how the first two lines run around the low pressure fuel and injection bypass hoses. -Remove all of the clips from the injection lines. 80% or more will likely break. -Loosen the injection line nuts and remove the injection lines. The special crowsfoot (13mm) above really makes it much easier on the engine side. -Remove the three T-30 screws that secure the delivery valve lock rings to the injection pump. Take note of how the lock rings are laying on the pump. -Remove all of the lock rings. -Clean the top of the IP again--pay special attention to around the delivery valves. *** -Using the special spline socket, loosen the first delivery valve holder. Unscrew it by hand and SLOWLY lift the valve holder, being careful to not let the spring get lost/drop out or pull the valve from inside the pump. -Use the (CLEAN) pick to remove the copper seal ring from the top of the assembly that was under the valve holder. -Carefully lower a new copper seal ring onto the assembly. Try to keep the ring and assembly more or less centered within the bore -Remove the O-ring from the outside of the valve holder. Use carb cleaner or similar to clean all the crud off the outside of the body (don't flush it inside!) -Fit a new O-Ring onto the delivery valve body. Put a few drops of oin on the threads of the valve and on each side of the O-Ring, ensuring that the ring is well-oiled. -Thread the delivery valve body into the IP by hand, being cautious of the valve assembly and the spring. (The spring should seat on top of the valve assembly into the pump), and the O-ring should not be pinched. -Using a torque wrench and the spline socket, torque the delivery valve holder to 30Nm (22 ft-lb). -Loosen the valve body maybe 1/8 turn (just enough to remove the torque/pressure) and re-torque to 30Nm/22ft-lbs. -Repeat the above step (This makes 3x torquing to 30Nm/22ft-lbs) -Torque an additional 5Nm/4ft-lbs (This makes 35Nm/26ft-lbs in 2 stages) -Repeat the above ten steps (from the *** mark) for the
