Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

2012-12-21 Thread Tim C
On Thu, Dec 20, 2012 at 4:40 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Thats my plan for next week. I don't know anybody right around here does
 those tests, I'll need to call around and check. It actually doesn't seem
 like its all that difficult to remove.

 A rebuilt looks like right on $100 with a lifetime warranty.


Both AZ and Advance have active coupons, as I recall, if you are slumming.
 Check fatwallet.

Best,
Tim
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[MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

2012-12-20 Thread Curt Raymond
So yesterday I took the regulator back out of the alternator on my '84 190D. 
You might remember back a couple weeks ago the low fuel, brake, and brake wear 
lights came on and I determined there was no charging going on. I replaced the 
regulator and all the warning lights went out plus the fuel gauge stopped 
working and still no charging.

So there was nothing obviously wrong with the regulator, I stuck in a spare I 
had hanging around which didn't change anything. While I was there I took the 
cover off the back of the alternator, its a PITA for troubleshooting. I even 
took the time to thread the wires back out of the hose.
More troubleshooting reveals with the engine running theres about 9v at the 
small wire from the alternator which I'm given to understand is where field 
current comes from. That would explain why there is no charging. So clearly 
we're not getting enough power from somewhere (the dashpod?) to initiate 
charging. I tore into the dashpod again and farted around not really finding 
anything, 201 dashpods are a pain vs 123, they've got teeth, on them presumably 
to keep them from moving around, that just slash the backs of my hands, all the 
other lights are fed from lightpipes which are a nightmare to wrangle...

I did manage to pop the fuse to the clock which tripped a lightbulb in my head 
and I started REPLACING ALL THE FUSES which did get the fuel gauge working 
again but didn't help anything else. I need to order some more fuses, some of 
the ones I put in didn't look a lot better (aftermarket) than the ones I took 
out and I've used up every single spare I had.

I can't find my copy of the 201 FSM, I'm wondering if theres another fuse that 
might be in charge of the charging system?

The last trick I'm going to try is to run a ground wire directly to the pod. I 
had to do that on my '83 240D, it had a bad ground somewhere I could never 
find. The 201 does NOT ground behind the pod like a 123 does, its down above 
the driver's feet somewhere which I also haven't been able to find...

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

2012-12-20 Thread Scott Ritchey
Curt, I think 9v should be enough to get the alternator going, it doesn't
take much.  After the alternator starts producing power it powers the field
coils without outside assistance.  I suspect your problem is elsewhere.  

Is there any chance you shorted out the 12v to the alternator output
terminal during maintenance and blew a fusible link somewhere?

As a test, I'd use some long voltmeter leads to measure the output voltage
right at the alternator with the motor running to confirm suspicions about
the alternator.

I don't have any 201 experience but I think you really need the ETM to sort
this out in a logical fashion.  Otherwise it's just a shot in the dark,
which only goes so far.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Curt
Raymond
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 12:27 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

So yesterday I took the regulator back out of the alternator on my '84 190D.
You might remember back a couple weeks ago the low fuel, brake, and brake
wear lights came on and I determined there was no charging going on. I
replaced the regulator and all the warning lights went out plus the fuel
gauge stopped working and still no charging.

So there was nothing obviously wrong with the regulator, I stuck in a spare
I had hanging around which didn't change anything. While I was there I took
the cover off the back of the alternator, its a PITA for troubleshooting. I
even took the time to thread the wires back out of the hose.
More troubleshooting reveals with the engine running theres about 9v at the
small wire from the alternator which I'm given to understand is where field
current comes from. That would explain why there is no charging. So clearly
we're not getting enough power from somewhere (the dashpod?) to initiate
charging. I tore into the dashpod again and farted around not really finding
anything, 201 dashpods are a pain vs 123, they've got teeth, on them
presumably to keep them from moving around, that just slash the backs of my
hands, all the other lights are fed from lightpipes which are a nightmare to
wrangle...

I did manage to pop the fuse to the clock which tripped a lightbulb in my
head and I started REPLACING ALL THE FUSES which did get the fuel gauge
working again but didn't help anything else. I need to order some more
fuses, some of the ones I put in didn't look a lot better (aftermarket) than
the ones I took out and I've used up every single spare I had.

I can't find my copy of the 201 FSM, I'm wondering if theres another fuse
that might be in charge of the charging system?

The last trick I'm going to try is to run a ground wire directly to the pod.
I had to do that on my '83 240D, it had a bad ground somewhere I could never
find. The 201 does NOT ground behind the pod like a 123 does, its down above
the driver's feet somewhere which I also haven't been able to find...

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

2012-12-20 Thread WILTON
I don't know for sure, either, but my thoughts, too - that 9v oughta get it 
started.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com

To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga



Curt, I think 9v should be enough to get the alternator going, it doesn't
take much.  After the alternator starts producing power it powers the 
field

coils without outside assistance.  I suspect your problem is elsewhere.

Is there any chance you shorted out the 12v to the alternator output
terminal during maintenance and blew a fusible link somewhere?

As a test, I'd use some long voltmeter leads to measure the output voltage
right at the alternator with the motor running to confirm suspicions about
the alternator.

I don't have any 201 experience but I think you really need the ETM to 
sort

this out in a logical fashion.  Otherwise it's just a shot in the dark,
which only goes so far.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Curt
Raymond
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 12:27 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

So yesterday I took the regulator back out of the alternator on my '84 
190D.

You might remember back a couple weeks ago the low fuel, brake, and brake
wear lights came on and I determined there was no charging going on. I
replaced the regulator and all the warning lights went out plus the fuel
gauge stopped working and still no charging.

So there was nothing obviously wrong with the regulator, I stuck in a 
spare
I had hanging around which didn't change anything. While I was there I 
took
the cover off the back of the alternator, its a PITA for troubleshooting. 
I

even took the time to thread the wires back out of the hose.
More troubleshooting reveals with the engine running theres about 9v at 
the
small wire from the alternator which I'm given to understand is where 
field
current comes from. That would explain why there is no charging. So 
clearly

we're not getting enough power from somewhere (the dashpod?) to initiate
charging. I tore into the dashpod again and farted around not really 
finding

anything, 201 dashpods are a pain vs 123, they've got teeth, on them
presumably to keep them from moving around, that just slash the backs of 
my
hands, all the other lights are fed from lightpipes which are a nightmare 
to

wrangle...

I did manage to pop the fuse to the clock which tripped a lightbulb in my
head and I started REPLACING ALL THE FUSES which did get the fuel gauge
working again but didn't help anything else. I need to order some more
fuses, some of the ones I put in didn't look a lot better (aftermarket) 
than

the ones I took out and I've used up every single spare I had.

I can't find my copy of the 201 FSM, I'm wondering if theres another fuse
that might be in charge of the charging system?

The last trick I'm going to try is to run a ground wire directly to the 
pod.
I had to do that on my '83 240D, it had a bad ground somewhere I could 
never
find. The 201 does NOT ground behind the pod like a 123 does, its down 
above

the driver's feet somewhere which I also haven't been able to find...

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

2012-12-20 Thread Curt Raymond
Hi Scott, thanks for muddying the waters ;)

I agree it seems like theres something else going on.
The 12.5v I'm seeing at the battery is confirmed at the large terminal coming 
from the alternator. Theres no way to check the voltage at the alternator 
because theres no lug at the alternator, just the plug that comes out to the 
two wires in the block on the wheelwell. So other than disconnecting the large 
wire at the block and looking for 12v there, which seems like a bad idea, I 
dunno.

If indeed 9v is enough for field current then I'm back to thinking I've got a 
bad alternator. I wonder what my local Car Quest wants for a cheapo rebuilt. 
The alternator in it is 22 months, 30,000 miles brand new from Mercedes but 
apparently only had a 1 year warranty...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 13:00:45 -0500
From: Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga
Message-ID: 0F4219F860B7448291F0C4574DB2BE08@ScottPC
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii

Curt, I think 9v should be enough to get the alternator going, it doesn't
take much.  After the alternator starts producing power it powers the field
coils without outside assistance.  I suspect your problem is elsewhere.  

Is there any chance you shorted out the 12v to the alternator output
terminal during maintenance and blew a fusible link somewhere?

As a test, I'd use some long voltmeter leads to measure the output voltage
right at the alternator with the motor running to confirm suspicions about
the alternator.

I don't have any 201 experience but I think you really need the ETM to sort
this out in a logical fashion.  Otherwise it's just a shot in the dark,
which only goes so far.

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

2012-12-20 Thread Randy Bennell
Can you throw ithe alternator on the tester at the local store and see 
what you get?


My son is going through this situation at the moment on the old 4Runner. 
It started acting weird and the alternator was only putting out about 12V.
He got a new one and put it on and all was well for a day or two and it 
started all over again. Back to 12V or so.

He got a second one and put it on and so far so good.
So, the question is whether the new one was bad or if there is something 
else going on that will come back to haunt again.


Randy


On 20/12/2012 1:26 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Hi Scott, thanks for muddying the waters ;)

I agree it seems like theres something else going on.
The 12.5v I'm seeing at the battery is confirmed at the large terminal coming from the 
alternator. Theres no way to check the voltage at the alternator because 
theres no lug at the alternator, just the plug that comes out to the two wires in the 
block on the wheelwell. So other than disconnecting the large wire at the block and 
looking for 12v there, which seems like a bad idea, I dunno.

If indeed 9v is enough for field current then I'm back to thinking I've got a 
bad alternator. I wonder what my local Car Quest wants for a cheapo rebuilt. 
The alternator in it is 22 months, 30,000 miles brand new from Mercedes but 
apparently only had a 1 year warranty...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 13:00:45 -0500
From: Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga
Message-ID: 0F4219F860B7448291F0C4574DB2BE08@ScottPC
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii

Curt, I think 9v should be enough to get the alternator going, it doesn't
take much.  After the alternator starts producing power it powers the field
coils without outside assistance.  I suspect your problem is elsewhere.

Is there any chance you shorted out the 12v to the alternator output
terminal during maintenance and blew a fusible link somewhere?

As a test, I'd use some long voltmeter leads to measure the output voltage
right at the alternator with the motor running to confirm suspicions about
the alternator.

I don't have any 201 experience but I think you really need the ETM to sort
this out in a logical fashion.  Otherwise it's just a shot in the dark,
which only goes so far.

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

2012-12-20 Thread Curt Raymond
Thats my plan for next week. I don't know anybody right around here does those 
tests, I'll need to call around and check. It actually doesn't seem like its 
all that difficult to remove.

A rebuilt looks like right on $100 with a lifetime warranty.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 13:51:03 -0600
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga
Message-ID: 50d36c27.4060...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Can you throw ithe alternator on the tester at the local store and see 
what you get?

My son is going through this situation at the moment on the old 4Runner. 
It started acting weird and the alternator was only putting out about 12V.
He got a new one and put it on and all was well for a day or two and it 
started all over again. Back to 12V or so.
He got a second one and put it on and so far so good.
So, the question is whether the new one was bad or if there is something 
else going on that will come back to haunt again.

Randy


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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

2012-12-20 Thread WILTON

Whose lifetime?  ;)

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com

To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga


Thats my plan for next week. I don't know anybody right around here does 
those tests, I'll need to call around and check. It actually doesn't seem 
like its all that difficult to remove.


A rebuilt looks like right on $100 with a lifetime warranty.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 13:51:03 -0600
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga
Message-ID: 50d36c27.4060...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Can you throw ithe alternator on the tester at the local store and see
what you get?

My son is going through this situation at the moment on the old 4Runner.
It started acting weird and the alternator was only putting out about 12V.
He got a new one and put it on and all was well for a day or two and it
started all over again. Back to 12V or so.
He got a second one and put it on and so far so good.
So, the question is whether the new one was bad or if there is something
else going on that will come back to haunt again.

Randy


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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

2012-12-20 Thread Dieselhead

Whose lifetime?  ;)

Wilton


until Curt gets it home.

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

2012-12-20 Thread Curt Raymond
Actually the one time I took back a lifetime rebuilt caliper to Advance they 
were very good about it. In fact they let me buy another caliper (I had to 
drive the car after all), swap that one in and return the leaker.
I put 25,000 miles on the other one with no issues, probably 20,000 on the 
leaker...

-Curt


Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 16:36:13 -0600
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga
Message-ID: a06240877ccf943191a6f@[192.168.1.51]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii ; format=flowed

Whose lifetime?  ;)

Wilton

until Curt gets it home.

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

2012-12-20 Thread Michael Canfield
Napa stores around here test alternators.  Call around to your FLAPS and
ask.

Mike
On Dec 20, 2012 6:43 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Actually the one time I took back a lifetime rebuilt caliper to Advance
 they were very good about it. In fact they let me buy another caliper (I
 had to drive the car after all), swap that one in and return the leaker.
 I put 25,000 miles on the other one with no issues, probably 20,000 on the
 leaker...

 -Curt


 Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 16:36:13 -0600
 From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga
 Message-ID: a06240877ccf943191a6f@[192.168.1.51]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii ; format=flowed

 Whose lifetime?  ;)
 
 Wilton

 until Curt gets it home.

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Re: [MBZ] Warning lights - the continuing saga

2012-12-20 Thread Fmiser
 Curt Raymond wrote:

 Thats my plan for next week. I don't know anybody right around
 here does those tests, I'll need to call around and check. It
 actually doesn't seem like its all that difficult to remove.

I have often toyed with the idea of a test stand.  An AC motor
to turn it, and some heaters, lights, blowers, etc as a load.
Not necessarily to test full output, to to see if it's close to
doing what it should.

It's never gotten past the dream stage. *smiles*

--   Philip

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