Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[G Mann via Mercedes]

In the Aviation world, we call such an event "deferred maintenance"
which translates as "it won't fall out of the sky before we can fix it
somewhere there are tools and equipment to get it done."

Drive it to where ever you have power and a welder, jackstand said
offending corner of the car, remove wheel, weld nut, remove stud...
assemble.


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On Thu, Jun 15, 2017 at 4:53 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Excellent advice.  Now I need to get a welder ($$) and learn how to use it
> (time).  Oh, and the barn will need the power turned back on ($$).  There
> probably aren't any 220V outlets so I will need to get into the box to wire
> something up ($$, time).
>
> Or maybe I will just leave it until I might really need to deal with it.
>
> --FT
>
>
> On 6/14/17 7:21 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> I have had incredible success with welding a nut on a broken bolt using a
>> wire feed welder with the nut held in position with pliers and the wire
>> inserted inside the nut so the weld is captured within the nut. Then pull
>> the weld trigger and make a weld puddle inside the nut.
>>
>> I've used this trick on broken bolts that were overhead and in impossible
>> positions to drill. So far.. the welding heat traveled down the broken
>> seized bolt and broke the rust bond on the threads allowing the bolt to be
>> turned out with a socket on the "new nut".
>>
>> One trick that really seems to help is a quick quench with water while the
>> weld is still glowing hot. Seems to shrink the bolt in place and break the
>> bond better.
>>
>> Good luck. Play safe.
>>
>> > =link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=icon>
>> Virus-free.
>> www.avast.com
>> > =link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=link>
>> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 14, 2017 at 2:46 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>
>> On 14/06/2017 4:28 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
>>>
>>> This one sheared off basically flush, I can probably centerpunch it to
 get a hole to start drilling if I ever need to deal with it, which will
 be
 after I get it running, if I get it running.

 --FT

 Sounds like a good opportunity to weld a nut on the end and use that to

>>> turn it out.
>>> Heat from the weld will loosen the threads as well.
>>> More difficult to do if the bolt is broken off below the surface but
>>> should be fairly easy if it is flush.
>>>
>>> RB
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>>
>>>
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>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
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>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>
>>
> --
> --FT
> Winston Churchill:
> “Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or small,
> large or petty,
> never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense.
> Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming might of
> the enemy.”
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

110v welder, I think I paid $250 for my Lincoln Handy Mig. Someday I'll get a 
bottle of gas for it, for now flux core is usable. Also at some point I'll get 
a sub panel in my garage so I've got a proper circuit to run it off of. Right 
now if I weld more than about 1 minute straight the breaker trips.
For your purposes a 3kw generator would suit.

-Curt


  From: Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Cc: Floyd Thursby <buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com>
 Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2017 7:54 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt
   
Excellent advice.  Now I need to get a welder ($$) and learn how to use 
it (time).  Oh, and the barn will need the power turned back on ($$).  
There probably aren't any 220V outlets so I will need to get into the 
box to wire something up ($$, time).

Or maybe I will just leave it until I might really need to deal with it.

--FT


On 6/14/17 7:21 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> I have had incredible success with welding a nut on a broken bolt using a
> wire feed welder with the nut held in position with pliers and the wire
> inserted inside the nut so the weld is captured within the nut. Then pull
> the weld trigger and make a weld puddle inside the nut.
>
> I've used this trick on broken bolts that were overhead and in impossible
> positions to drill. So far.. the welding heat traveled down the broken
> seized bolt and broke the rust bond on the threads allowing the bolt to be
> turned out with a socket on the "new nut".
>
> One trick that really seems to help is a quick quench with water while the
> weld is still glowing hot. Seems to shrink the bolt in place and break the
> bond better.
>
> Good luck. Play safe.
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=icon>
> Virus-free.
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> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> On Wed, Jun 14, 2017 at 2:46 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>> On 14/06/2017 4:28 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
>>
>>> This one sheared off basically flush, I can probably centerpunch it to
>>> get a hole to start drilling if I ever need to deal with it, which will be
>>> after I get it running, if I get it running.
>>>
>>> --FT
>>>
>>> Sounds like a good opportunity to weld a nut on the end and use that to
>> turn it out.
>> Heat from the weld will loosen the threads as well.
>> More difficult to do if the bolt is broken off below the surface but
>> should be fairly easy if it is flush.
>>
>> RB
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>

-- 
--FT
Winston Churchill:
“Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or small, large 
or petty,
never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense.
Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming might of the 
enemy.”

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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

Excellent advice.  Now I need to get a welder ($$) and learn how to use 
it (time).  Oh, and the barn will need the power turned back on ($$).  
There probably aren't any 220V outlets so I will need to get into the 
box to wire something up ($$, time).


Or maybe I will just leave it until I might really need to deal with it.

--FT


On 6/14/17 7:21 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

I have had incredible success with welding a nut on a broken bolt using a
wire feed welder with the nut held in position with pliers and the wire
inserted inside the nut so the weld is captured within the nut. Then pull
the weld trigger and make a weld puddle inside the nut.

I've used this trick on broken bolts that were overhead and in impossible
positions to drill. So far.. the welding heat traveled down the broken
seized bolt and broke the rust bond on the threads allowing the bolt to be
turned out with a socket on the "new nut".

One trick that really seems to help is a quick quench with water while the
weld is still glowing hot. Seems to shrink the bolt in place and break the
bond better.

Good luck. Play safe.


Virus-free.
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On Wed, Jun 14, 2017 at 2:46 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


On 14/06/2017 4:28 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:


This one sheared off basically flush, I can probably centerpunch it to
get a hole to start drilling if I ever need to deal with it, which will be
after I get it running, if I get it running.

--FT

Sounds like a good opportunity to weld a nut on the end and use that to

turn it out.
Heat from the weld will loosen the threads as well.
More difficult to do if the bolt is broken off below the surface but
should be fairly easy if it is flush.

RB


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--
--FT
Winston Churchill:
“Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or small, large 
or petty,
never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense.
Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming might of the 
enemy.”

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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

Quench with Kroil!

-- Jim
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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[G Mann via Mercedes]

I have had incredible success with welding a nut on a broken bolt using a
wire feed welder with the nut held in position with pliers and the wire
inserted inside the nut so the weld is captured within the nut. Then pull
the weld trigger and make a weld puddle inside the nut.

I've used this trick on broken bolts that were overhead and in impossible
positions to drill. So far.. the welding heat traveled down the broken
seized bolt and broke the rust bond on the threads allowing the bolt to be
turned out with a socket on the "new nut".

One trick that really seems to help is a quick quench with water while the
weld is still glowing hot. Seems to shrink the bolt in place and break the
bond better.

Good luck. Play safe.


Virus-free.
www.avast.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Wed, Jun 14, 2017 at 2:46 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> On 14/06/2017 4:28 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> This one sheared off basically flush, I can probably centerpunch it to
>> get a hole to start drilling if I ever need to deal with it, which will be
>> after I get it running, if I get it running.
>>
>> --FT
>>
>> Sounds like a good opportunity to weld a nut on the end and use that to
> turn it out.
> Heat from the weld will loosen the threads as well.
> More difficult to do if the bolt is broken off below the surface but
> should be fairly easy if it is flush.
>
> RB
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

On 14/06/2017 4:28 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
This one sheared off basically flush, I can probably centerpunch it to 
get a hole to start drilling if I ever need to deal with it, which 
will be after I get it running, if I get it running.


--FT

Sounds like a good opportunity to weld a nut on the end and use that to 
turn it out.

Heat from the weld will loosen the threads as well.
More difficult to do if the bolt is broken off below the surface but 
should be fairly easy if it is flush.


RB

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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

This one sheared off basically flush, I can probably centerpunch it to 
get a hole to start drilling if I ever need to deal with it, which will 
be after I get it running, if I get it running.


--FT


On 6/14/17 5:23 PM, fmiser via Mercedes wrote:

Mitch wrote:
Unless it breaks flush with the hole, it's hard to center the
bit in a broken bolt.

I got this kit that has drill guides for either protruding or
recessed bolts.  It doesn't help when it's truly flush.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-04200A-Extractor-Broken-Remover/dp/B006YDQ812/

It worked very well for me when I was removing a broken starter
motor bold and then installing a big-sert from http://www.timesert.com/.

I _really_ wanted it to be in the same spot as the original - and
from all I can tell it was a complete success.


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--
--FT
Winston Churchill:
“Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or small, large or 
petty,
never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense.
Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming might of the 
enemy.”


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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Mitch wrote:

> Unless it breaks flush with the hole, it's hard to center the
> bit in a broken bolt.

I got this kit that has drill guides for either protruding or
recessed bolts.  It doesn't help when it's truly flush.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-04200A-Extractor-Broken-Remover/dp/B006YDQ812/

It worked very well for me when I was removing a broken starter
motor bold and then installing a big-sert from http://www.timesert.com/.

I _really_ wanted it to be in the same spot as the original - and
from all I can tell it was a complete success.


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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

I suspect with 1000# in the bed you'd want them ;)
-CurtWho has repeatedly way overloaded his Dodge 1500 but never as badly over 
as hauling firewood in a Ranger...


  From: Randy Bennell via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 To: Curt Raymond via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
Cc: Randy Bennell <rbenn...@bennell.ca>
 Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 3:21 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt
   
Lugnuts are over rated. I drove my F150 for a day with only 1 on each of 
the left side wheels.
No idea why Ford put 6 on each wheel.

RB

On 14/06/2017 11:40 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
> My 84 190D had a stripped bolt hole in each rear hub. I put 90,000 miles on 
> it like that...
> Might see if a sharp chisel could tap out the broken one. Try a little heat 
> and oil first.
> Curt
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>  
>    On Wed, Jun 14, 2017 at 12:05 PM, Floyd Thursby via 
>Mercedes<mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:  I was taking a wheel off the 
>$200POSEL, looks like they had put the
> original spare on and did not tighten the bolts as it was a bit wobbly
> on there.  Anyway, getting the bolts out was hard, they were really
> rusted in there, and one sheared off in the hub.  I guess that means
> that I will need to drill it out if I decide to do something with the
> car, and then chase the other holes with a tap?  And the lug bolts are
> half rusty where they were not fully seated, I have never done that
> electrolysis thing but wonder if that might be the way to clean them up
> unless they are some weird metal or plated or galvanized or something?
> Any ideas?
>


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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

Lugnuts are over rated. I drove my F150 for a day with only 1 on each of 
the left side wheels.

No idea why Ford put 6 on each wheel.

RB

On 14/06/2017 11:40 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

My 84 190D had a stripped bolt hole in each rear hub. I put 90,000 miles on it 
like that...
Might see if a sharp chisel could tap out the broken one. Try a little heat and 
oil first.
Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
  
   On Wed, Jun 14, 2017 at 12:05 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:   I was taking a wheel off the $200POSEL, looks like they had put the

original spare on and did not tighten the bolts as it was a bit wobbly
on there.  Anyway, getting the bolts out was hard, they were really
rusted in there, and one sheared off in the hub.  I guess that means
that I will need to drill it out if I decide to do something with the
car, and then chase the other holes with a tap?  And the lug bolts are
half rusty where they were not fully seated, I have never done that
electrolysis thing but wonder if that might be the way to clean them up
unless they are some weird metal or plated or galvanized or something?
Any ideas?




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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Soak it with Kroil for a day or two.  If that doesn’t loosen it, it’s not 
coming out.

-D


> On Jun 14, 2017, at 2:55 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Unless it breaks flush with the hole, it's hard to center the bit in a broken 
> bolt. Maybe grind a hollow in the middle with a dremel to start the bit?
> 
> And always remember, left hand drill bits are your friend. Nothing beats 
> having the bolt spin out of the hole while you're trying to drill it because 
> your left hand bit got stuck in it.
> 
> ___
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> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 
> 


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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

On 14/06/2017 1:55 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Unless it breaks flush with the hole, it's hard to center the bit in a broken 
bolt. Maybe grind a hollow in the middle with a dremel to start the bit?

And always remember, left hand drill bits are your friend. Nothing beats having 
the bolt spin out of the hole while you're trying to drill it because your left 
hand bit got stuck in it.

___

The problem that I have with left hand drill bits is that the chuck 
comes loose because the drill is running in reverse.


RB


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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

Unless it breaks flush with the hole, it's hard to center the bit in a broken 
bolt. Maybe grind a hollow in the middle with a dremel to start the bit?

And always remember, left hand drill bits are your friend. Nothing beats having 
the bolt spin out of the hole while you're trying to drill it because your left 
hand bit got stuck in it.

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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

When the EZ out breaks throw things in disgust.
Actually when using an EZ out remember to drill the hole as big as possible, 
large EZ outs work pretty well, small ones are very easy to break.
-Curt


  From: Meade Dillon <dillonm...@gmail.com>
 To: "curtlud...@yahoo.com" <curtlud...@yahoo.com>; Mercedes Discussion List 
<mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
 Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 1:31 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt
   
Heat with a torch, then melt some candle wax into it, then drill hole and 
easy-out...

-
Max
Charleston SC




   
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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Heat with a torch, then melt some candle wax into it, then drill hole and
easy-out...

-
Max
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

My 84 190D had a stripped bolt hole in each rear hub. I put 90,000 miles on it 
like that...
Might see if a sharp chisel could tap out the broken one. Try a little heat and 
oil first.
Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Wed, Jun 14, 2017 at 12:05 PM, Floyd Thursby via 
Mercedes wrote:   I was taking a wheel off the 
$200POSEL, looks like they had put the 
original spare on and did not tighten the bolts as it was a bit wobbly 
on there.  Anyway, getting the bolts out was hard, they were really 
rusted in there, and one sheared off in the hub.  I guess that means 
that I will need to drill it out if I decide to do something with the 
car, and then chase the other holes with a tap?  And the lug bolts are 
half rusty where they were not fully seated, I have never done that 
electrolysis thing but wonder if that might be the way to clean them up 
unless they are some weird metal or plated or galvanized or something?  
Any ideas?

-- 
--FT
Winston Churchill:
“Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or small, large or 
petty,
never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense.
Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming might of the 
enemy.”


___
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Re: [MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Probably easier to get another used hub.

-D


> On Jun 14, 2017, at 12:05 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was taking a wheel off the $200POSEL, looks like they had put the original 
> spare on and did not tighten the bolts as it was a bit wobbly on there.  
> Anyway, getting the bolts out was hard, they were really rusted in there, and 
> one sheared off in the hub.  I guess that means that I will need to drill it 
> out if I decide to do something with the car, and then chase the other holes 
> with a tap?  And the lug bolts are half rusty where they were not fully 
> seated, I have never done that electrolysis thing but wonder if that might be 
> the way to clean them up unless they are some weird metal or plated or 
> galvanized or something?  Any ideas?
> 
> -- 
> --FT
> Winston Churchill:
> “Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or small, large 
> or petty,
> never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense.
> Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming might of the 
> enemy.”
> 
> 
> ___
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[MBZ] buggered lug bolt

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

I was taking a wheel off the $200POSEL, looks like they had put the 
original spare on and did not tighten the bolts as it was a bit wobbly 
on there.  Anyway, getting the bolts out was hard, they were really 
rusted in there, and one sheared off in the hub.  I guess that means 
that I will need to drill it out if I decide to do something with the 
car, and then chase the other holes with a tap?  And the lug bolts are 
half rusty where they were not fully seated, I have never done that 
electrolysis thing but wonder if that might be the way to clean them up 
unless they are some weird metal or plated or galvanized or something?  
Any ideas?


--
--FT
Winston Churchill:
“Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or small, large or 
petty,
never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense.
Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming might of the 
enemy.”


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