Re: [MBZ] considering brake repair....

2006-12-23 Thread Marshall Booth

Loren Faeth wrote:
Nothing tricky if you have bled brakes before.  I'd replace the hoses, 
flush out the fluid and consider using silicone fluid.  I know the purists 
will flame me for the heresy.  I have silicone in 3 or 4 MBs for 5-6 years 
with no problems or complaints.  If you  use DOT4 fluid, be sure you don't 
put DOT3 garbage in it.  Do it yourself and put $1000 in your wallet.  Then 
use it to take SWMBO out.   She will love you for it and you will have the 
change in your pocket.


Silicone fluid is great for racing and other specialty applications 
where the system is routinely maintained VERY frequently. DO NOT USE 
silicone fluid in any car with ABS. The ABS pulsations cause "air" 
bubbles to form! That's the primary reason for the prohibition to using 
silicone fluid in Mercedes, but if you DO use silicone fluid in a 
Mercedes, the system will need to be flushed much more frequently than 
with conventional fluid as the silicone fluid won't bind with water and 
the water that accumulates will need to be removed by flushing the 
system (or the lines will rust from the inside out).


No question that DOT IV or IV+ fluid is superior to DOT III fluid. As to 
mixing DOT III with DOT IV fluids, there will be few problems, but the 
mix will have characteristics closer to III than to IV and you'll need 
to change the fluid more frequently than you would if using pure IV. 
Boiling temp will be lowered to very close to the boiling point of III 
as will with tendency to sequester water. If you use III or a mix of III 
and IV, change the fluid at least every year. IV can go at least 2 years 
between flushes.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] considering brake repair....

2006-12-22 Thread LarryT

Hi Allen,
As Loren suggested, it's pretty simple.  Even rebuilding the calipers is not 
very difficult.  Get the correct size Flare Wrench - I believe it's 11mm - 
Sears has a pack of 2 with the 4 most common sizes - they'll prevent damage 
to the flare nuts.  You must not split the caliper halves - the pistons will 
come out without splitting the calipers - remove the old o-rings and dust 
boots, clean everything using brake fluid or brake cleaner - avoid breathing 
the dust.  Inspect the pistons and bores - if they have gotten moisture in 
them there may be corrosion making the pistons difficult to move - which 
typically causes seizing.  Minor corrosion can be cleaned up with fine emory 
cloth - I use a fine wire brush in a bench grinder - the important thing it 
to not remove any base metal or the pistons will be ruined - same for the 
bores.  Too much aggressive cleaning and the calipers will need to be 
replaced.   Installation is (as Haynes like to say) the reverse of 
disassembly.  The only one likely to be difficult it the one already seized. 
Proceed carefully and you shouldn;t have any problems.  Feel free to write 
me directly if you wish.


Since all 4 need attention, put jack stands under each corner and work on 
one corner at a time.  once all 4 are done, refill the system with a quality 
brake fluid -- and bleed the brakes.   I like the blue ATE fluid but that a 
personal preference and any DOT4 will work  but alternating between the blue 
and regular makes the yearly flushing easier - when the color changes you 
know fresh fluid is at the caliper.


BTW, I'd replace all 4 rotors rather than machining the rears and replacing 
the fronts.  New rotors are not that much and some shops have old equipment 
that does not do the machining perfectly causing vibrations that never stop. 
true, it's unlikely, but the price of new rotors is pretty good - as low as 
$17 each for rear rotors.


Anyway - after completing one caliper rebuild you'll have plenty of 
confidence and the remaining 3 will go pretty quickly.  BYW, new bleed 
valves, pad pins and anti-rattle springs can be ordered from Rusty if yours 
are questionable - sometimes the bleed valves get screwed up when 
"mechanics" use vise grips to loosen them ---


Also, there are some "automatic/self bleeding" bleed valves which fit the 
MB - haven;t tried them yet but the concept is sound.  It makes one man 
bleeding easy - unless you have a pressure bleeder which means your bleeding 
will go quickly anyway -


Good luck - That $1000 will look good in your checkbook!!

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Allan Streib" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2006 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] considering brake repair



Argh -- screwed up my "from" email address on that last post.
Corrected now...

Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:


Long time since I posted -- been busy, occasionally glancing at the
digests

Anyway, I just got a quote from my mechanic for about $1,400 for
complete brake replacement on my '83 300D.  He says 3 of 4 calipers
are leaking and the 4th is about to sieze.

Quote would include:
  4 rebuilt calipers
  new pads
  new sensors
  new front rotors
  resurface rear rotors
  labor...

I can get all the parts from Rusty for probably $400 or so.  I don't
want to begrudge the guy his livelihood, he is a good mechanic and I
know that shops use the parts markup to help cover overhead.

HOWEVER -- not sure I want to put $1,400 into this car, though it
has not even 170,000 miles on it and I have no real complaints
otherwise.

Thoughts?  Anything tricky about the job?  I've done pads and
calipers on other vehicles before.  If I spend a Saturday doing this
myself, anything else I should do while I'm in there?  Hoses,
probably?

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230


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Re: [MBZ] considering brake repair....

2006-12-21 Thread Loren Faeth
Nothing tricky if you have bled brakes before.  I'd replace the hoses, 
flush out the fluid and consider using silicone fluid.  I know the purists 
will flame me for the heresy.  I have silicone in 3 or 4 MBs for 5-6 years 
with no problems or complaints.  If you  use DOT4 fluid, be sure you don't 
put DOT3 garbage in it.  Do it yourself and put $1000 in your wallet.  Then 
use it to take SWMBO out.   She will love you for it and you will have the 
change in your pocket.


At 01:23 PM 12/21/2006, you wrote:

Argh -- screwed up my "from" email address on that last post.
Corrected now...

Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

> Long time since I posted -- been busy, occasionally glancing at the
> digests
>
> Anyway, I just got a quote from my mechanic for about $1,400 for
> complete brake replacement on my '83 300D.  He says 3 of 4 calipers
> are leaking and the 4th is about to sieze.
>
> Quote would include:
>   4 rebuilt calipers
>   new pads
>   new sensors
>   new front rotors
>   resurface rear rotors
>   labor...
>
> I can get all the parts from Rusty for probably $400 or so.  I don't
> want to begrudge the guy his livelihood, he is a good mechanic and I
> know that shops use the parts markup to help cover overhead.
>
> HOWEVER -- not sure I want to put $1,400 into this car, though it
> has not even 170,000 miles on it and I have no real complaints
> otherwise.
>
> Thoughts?  Anything tricky about the job?  I've done pads and
> calipers on other vehicles before.  If I spend a Saturday doing this
> myself, anything else I should do while I'm in there?  Hoses,
> probably?
>
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
> 1966 230

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Loren Faeth 





Re: [MBZ] considering brake repair....

2006-12-21 Thread Allan Streib
Argh -- screwed up my "from" email address on that last post.
Corrected now...

Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

> Long time since I posted -- been busy, occasionally glancing at the
> digests
>
> Anyway, I just got a quote from my mechanic for about $1,400 for
> complete brake replacement on my '83 300D.  He says 3 of 4 calipers
> are leaking and the 4th is about to sieze.
>
> Quote would include:
>   4 rebuilt calipers
>   new pads
>   new sensors
>   new front rotors
>   resurface rear rotors
>   labor...
>
> I can get all the parts from Rusty for probably $400 or so.  I don't
> want to begrudge the guy his livelihood, he is a good mechanic and I
> know that shops use the parts markup to help cover overhead.
>
> HOWEVER -- not sure I want to put $1,400 into this car, though it
> has not even 170,000 miles on it and I have no real complaints
> otherwise.
>
> Thoughts?  Anything tricky about the job?  I've done pads and
> calipers on other vehicles before.  If I spend a Saturday doing this
> myself, anything else I should do while I'm in there?  Hoses,
> probably?
>
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
> 1966 230