Fusion Splicer
Dear Member, Anyone can recommend a reliable and affordable fusion splicer please? Thanks!
NetBSD as a TimeCapsule?
Use avahi.
Re: Fusion Splicer
It depends on what you mean by affordable and how much you're going to use it. On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 4:47 AM, Pui Edylie em...@edylie.net wrote: Dear Member, Anyone can recommend a reliable and affordable fusion splicer please? Thanks!
Re: ATT Postmaster Contact
I've had decent luck reaching out to abuse_...@abuse-att.net, any other method of contact seems to just go to /dev/null. It does generally take longer than 2 days to hear back, patience is a virtue. - Original Message - From: Robert Webb rw...@ropeguru.com To: Suresh Ramasubramanian ops.li...@gmail.com Cc: nanog@nanog.org Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2014 9:06:37 PM Subject: Re: ATT Postmaster Contact Thanks. I am the admin of the server. I only have one user of my list that has a bellsouth.net email address. As I stated before, the list might get 15 emails a month sent out. All users are put on the list by request only and only one person has authorization to send out. So there was NO way I was sending any unauthorized email of ANY type in order to get blocked. Robert On 03/16/2014 09:54 PM, Suresh Ramasubramanian wrote: They will respond usefully to you if you are the admin of that server. If you are on shared hosting, you might ask your provider to contact them. And two days is not an unreasonable time to handle a block issue. On 17-Mar-2014 3:09 am, Robert Webb rw...@ropeguru.com mailto:rw...@ropeguru.com wrote: Anyone have a contact for postmaster at att.net http://att.net? I have one user on an email list I send to and they are blocking for abuse. This list might get 15 email a month that go out. Filled out their form but would like to get this resolved in less than 2 days as they state. Robert
Re: NetBSD as a TimeCapsule?
Atticus grobe...@gmail.com writes: Use avahi. Isn't that built into netatalk3? -r
Re: NetBSD as a TimeCapsule?
On 3/18/14, 11:53 AM, Rob Seastrom wrote: Atticus grobe...@gmail.com writes: Use avahi. Isn't that built into netatalk3? netatalk does the mdns for my afp shares and seems to work. -r signature.asc Description: OpenPGP digital signature
Re: pay.gov and IPv6
www.eda.gov has been broken since January. It has a record but when clients connect via IPv6 they see Bad Request (Invalid Hostname)” rather than the web site. On Mar 17, 2014, at 1:43 PM, Matthew Kaufman matt...@matthew.at wrote: Random IPv6 complaint of the day: redirects from FCC.gov to pay.gov fail when clients have IPv6 enabled. Work fine if IPv6 is off. One more set of client computers that should be dual-stacked are now relegated to IPv4-only until someone remembers to turn it back on for each of them... sigh. Matthew Kaufman --- Bruce Curtis bruce.cur...@ndsu.edu Certified NetAnalyst II701-231-8527 North Dakota State University
L6-20P - L6-30R
I have a situation where a 208v/20A PDU (L6-20P) is supposedly hooked to a 208v/30A circuit (L6-30R). Before I order the correct PDU's and whip cords...sanity check...are connectors 'similar' enough that this is possible (with force) or am I going to find we've actually got L6-20R's on the provider side? -- ~Randy
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
They're different. You can't force them. On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 12:24 PM, Randy a...@djlab.com wrote: I have a situation where a 208v/20A PDU (L6-20P) is supposedly hooked to a 208v/30A circuit (L6-30R). Before I order the correct PDU's and whip cords...sanity check...are connectors 'similar' enough that this is possible (with force) or am I going to find we've actually got L6-20R's on the provider side? -- ~Randy -- 09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
The whole point behind the locking connectors (like the IEC connectors) is to prevent you from plugging the wrong connectors together. Not only are the different dimensions, but the prongs are keyed differently as well. If you put a L6-20P device into a L6-30R, then it was done by physically replacing the plug on the PDU, not by making it work. I have had to do this at times but it is not strictly allowed by codes and not at all recommended. -Wayne On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 03:46:26PM -0700, Mike Hale wrote: They're different. You can't force them. On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 12:24 PM, Randy a...@djlab.com wrote: I have a situation where a 208v/20A PDU (L6-20P) is supposedly hooked to a 208v/30A circuit (L6-30R). Before I order the correct PDU's and whip cords...sanity check...are connectors 'similar' enough that this is possible (with force) or am I going to find we've actually got L6-20R's on the provider side? -- ~Randy -- 09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0 --- Wayne Bouchard w...@typo.org Network Dude http://www.typo.org/~web/
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
* w...@typo.org (Wayne E Bouchard) [Tue 18 Mar 2014, 23:53 CET]: I have had to do this at times but it is not strictly allowed by codes and not at all recommended. It's an active fire hazard. The cables aren't rated (= built) for the power draw. -- Niels.
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
The connectors are definitely distinct and incompatible, you won't be able to force a 20 into a 30 or vice versa. So yes, one of the ends has been changed. M. Original Message From: Randy Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2014 18:42 To: nanog@nanog.org Reply To: a...@djlab.com Subject: L6-20P - L6-30R I have a situation where a 208v/20A PDU (L6-20P) is supposedly hooked to a 208v/30A circuit (L6-30R). Before I order the correct PDU's and whip cords...sanity check...are connectors 'similar' enough that this is possible (with force) or am I going to find we've actually got L6-20R's on the provider side? -- ~Randy
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
https://www.21cii.com/ITStudio/Content/Resources/Images/Appendix/Plug%20%20Power/SB%202P-3W_505x447.png I think the 250 v 15 amp plugs fit in the 20 amp sockets, but the 20s don't fit in the 30 sockets. This sort of thing is usually an adapter, a little cylinder with a L6-20R on one end and a L6-30P on the other, since the loads are safe. Either that, or a short jumper cable wired the same way. On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 3:46 PM, Mike Hale eyeronic.des...@gmail.comwrote: They're different. You can't force them. On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 12:24 PM, Randy a...@djlab.com wrote: I have a situation where a 208v/20A PDU (L6-20P) is supposedly hooked to a 208v/30A circuit (L6-30R). Before I order the correct PDU's and whip cords...sanity check...are connectors 'similar' enough that this is possible (with force) or am I going to find we've actually got L6-20R's on the provider side? -- ~Randy -- 09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0 -- -george william herbert george.herb...@gmail.com
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
Randy a...@djlab.com wrote: I have a situation where a 208v/20A PDU (L6-20P) is supposedly hooked to a 208v/30A circuit (L6-30R). Before I order the correct PDU's and whip cords...sanity check...are connectors 'similar' enough that this is possible (with force) or am I going to find we've actually got L6-20R's on the provider side? They are slightly different. http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=6772 http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=6775 -- andrei
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
Crap, was looking at the non-locking ones. Ignore that. On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 3:54 PM, George Herbert george.herb...@gmail.comwrote: https://www.21cii.com/ITStudio/Content/Resources/Images/Appendix/Plug%20%20Power/SB%202P-3W_505x447.png I think the 250 v 15 amp plugs fit in the 20 amp sockets, but the 20s don't fit in the 30 sockets. This sort of thing is usually an adapter, a little cylinder with a L6-20R on one end and a L6-30P on the other, since the loads are safe. Either that, or a short jumper cable wired the same way. On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 3:46 PM, Mike Hale eyeronic.des...@gmail.comwrote: They're different. You can't force them. On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 12:24 PM, Randy a...@djlab.com wrote: I have a situation where a 208v/20A PDU (L6-20P) is supposedly hooked to a 208v/30A circuit (L6-30R). Before I order the correct PDU's and whip cords...sanity check...are connectors 'similar' enough that this is possible (with force) or am I going to find we've actually got L6-20R's on the provider side? -- ~Randy -- 09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0 -- -george william herbert george.herb...@gmail.com -- -george william herbert george.herb...@gmail.com
RE: L6-20P - L6-30R
I've had to do that before; provider gave me a 208v/30a circuit and I already had a power strip I wanted to re-use that had a corded L6-20P connector on it. I purchased a L6-30P plug / L6-20R receptacle adapter from http://www.stayonline.com/nema-locking-6-30-amp-adapters.aspx They're only $25 and they ship overnight if needed. They have one foot cabled versions of the same thing too if you have tight working space and there's not enough room for both connectors back to back; works as a strain relief too so maybe that option is better regardless. If you're trying to go the other direction, plugging an L6-30P into an L6-20R 20 amp circuit, that I'd recommend against because it never fails that someone says hey, 30 amp power strip, let me plug some more stuff into it not realizing it's on a 20 amp breakered circuit, then all your stuff goes down while you try to find the facility staff to reset the breaker. David -Original Message- From: Randy [mailto:a...@djlab.com] Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2014 3:25 PM To: nanog@nanog.org Subject: L6-20P - L6-30R I have a situation where a 208v/20A PDU (L6-20P) is supposedly hooked to a 208v/30A circuit (L6-30R). Before I order the correct PDU's and whip cords...sanity check...are connectors 'similar' enough that this is possible (with force) or am I going to find we've actually got L6-20R's on the provider side? -- ~Randy
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
On Tue, 18 Mar 2014, Randy wrote: I have a situation where a 208v/20A PDU (L6-20P) is supposedly hooked to a 208v/30A circuit (L6-30R). Before I order the correct PDU's and whip cords...sanity check...are connectors 'similar' enough that this is possible (with force) or am I going to find we've actually got L6-20R's on the provider side? Generally, all common electrical plugs and receptacles (straight-blade, twist-lock, IEC, and CEE) are physically sized and keyed differently, so that they can't be connected together, to keep people from connecting loads that require a specific voltage/current to supplies that aren't intended to provide it. While it's not uncommon for someone to replace a plug with the right kind, this can (in order of badness): 1. start a fire 2. short out and (hopefully) trip a breaker - that's what breakers are for! 3. violate building/electrical codes 4. void your device's warranty As others have mentioned, just making it work, rather than making it work correctly, can be bad news. People often fancy themselves unlicensed/uncertified electricians. I've seen some of the handiwork from such people, and while their creativity is impressive, having to rip their stuff out and re-do it is not fun. jms
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
- Original Message - From: Randy a...@djlab.com I have a situation where a 208v/20A PDU (L6-20P) is supposedly hooked to a 208v/30A circuit (L6-30R). Before I order the correct PDU's and whip cords...sanity check...are connectors 'similar' enough that this is possible (with force) or am I going to find we've actually got L6-20R's on the provider side? As it happens, the chart at http://www.stayonline.com/reference-nema-locking.aspx suggests that the L6-20 and L6-30 are less different than you'd expect. I *think* those are on different diameters, and a datacenter employee ought to friggin' know better... but I don't think it's 100% impossible that this has happened. If it did, you're gonna replace the plug anyway... As long as there's a 20A breaker on the PDU, you're safe, if not within code. Cheers, -- jra -- Jay R. Ashworth Baylink j...@baylink.com Designer The Things I Think RFC 2100 Ashworth Associates http://www.bcp38.info 2000 Land Rover DII St Petersburg FL USA BCP38: Ask For It By Name! +1 727 647 1274
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
On 18-Mar-14 17:54, Niels Bakker wrote: * w...@typo.org (Wayne E Bouchard) [Tue 18 Mar 2014, 23:53 CET]: I have had to do this at times but it is not strictly allowed by codes and not at all recommended. It's an active fire hazard. The cables aren't rated (= built) for the power draw. That's a problem in the other direction, but plugging a 20A device into a 30A feed shouldn't be a hazard at all. S -- Stephen Sprunk God does not play dice. --Albert Einstein CCIE #3723 God is an inveterate gambler, and He throws the K5SSSdice at every possible opportunity. --Stephen Hawking smime.p7s Description: S/MIME Cryptographic Signature
RE: L6-20P - L6-30R
Strictly speaking, no, you cannot do this. The diameter of the pattern of the pins are different 20 to 30 amps. If no electrical inspectors are looking, yes, you can bend the pins and make it work. I've done it, others have done it, but you shouldn't do it and it is a clear electrical code violation. Go to Lowes or Home Depot, but the right end, and stick it on there. You do still have the issue where the wire size is wrong, but if you have a brain and don't overload it, you will be OK. But, this too is still a clear electrical code violation. I have a situation where a 208v/20A PDU (L6-20P) is supposedly hooked to a 208v/30A circuit (L6-30R). Before I order the correct PDU's and whip cords...sanity check...are connectors 'similar' enough that this is possible (with force) or am I going to find we've actually got L6-20R's on the provider side? -- ~Randy
RE: L6-20P - L6-30R
Go look at any standard household lamp. It has a 5-15P on the end of it, which could be plugged into an outlet rated for 20 amps (5-20R), with 16 gauge lamp cord rated for 10 amps or less. It all depends on the connected load. * w...@typo.org (Wayne E Bouchard) [Tue 18 Mar 2014, 23:53 CET]: I have had to do this at times but it is not strictly allowed by codes and not at all recommended. It's an active fire hazard. The cables aren't rated (= built) for the power draw. -- Niels.
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
On 03/18/2014 7:11 pm, Jay Ashworth wrote: As it happens, the chart at http://www.stayonline.com/reference-nema-locking.aspx suggests that the L6-20 and L6-30 are less different than you'd expect. I *think* those are on different diameters, and a datacenter employee ought to friggin' know better... but I don't think it's 100% impossible that this has happened. If it did, you're gonna replace the plug anyway... I plan on installing the correct PDU/cords shortly so no adapter should be needed, assuming it's really a L6-30R on the provider end. Disclaimer -- I never intended to break any codes, it was an oversight by me sending the wrong PDU, and onsite staff should have know better before hooking it up. -- ~Randy
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
- Original Message - On 18-Mar-14 17:54, Niels Bakker wrote: * w...@typo.org (Wayne E Bouchard) [Tue 18 Mar 2014, 23:53 CET]: I have had to do this at times but it is not strictly allowed by codes and not at all recommended. It's an active fire hazard. The cables aren't rated (= built) for the power draw. That's a problem in the other direction, but plugging a 20A device into a 30A feed shouldn't be a hazard at all. Unless the device you are plugging in does not have its own breaker. If it doesn't, then your 20A cord could catch on fire before the 30A breaker trips. Not incredibly likely, but possible. -Randy
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
- Original Message - From: Stephen Sprunk step...@sprunk.org On 18-Mar-14 17:54, Niels Bakker wrote: * w...@typo.org (Wayne E Bouchard) [Tue 18 Mar 2014, 23:53 CET]: I have had to do this at times but it is not strictly allowed by codes and not at all recommended. It's an active fire hazard. The cables aren't rated (= built) for the power draw. That's a problem in the other direction, but plugging a 20A device into a 30A feed shouldn't be a hazard at all. Plugging a 20A *PDU* into a 30A receptacle can be dangerous if a) there is more than 20A of load plugged into it b) it has no breaker, and c) the cordset is only 12A, which is what you would expect on a 20A PDU. Cheers, -- jr 'up the voltage' a -- Jay R. Ashworth Baylink j...@baylink.com Designer The Things I Think RFC 2100 Ashworth Associates http://www.bcp38.info 2000 Land Rover DII St Petersburg FL USA BCP38: Ask For It By Name! +1 727 647 1274
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
It's temporary unless it works. -Laszlo On Mar 18, 2014, at 11:30 PM, Jay Ashworth j...@baylink.com wrote: - Original Message - From: Stephen Sprunk step...@sprunk.org On 18-Mar-14 17:54, Niels Bakker wrote: * w...@typo.org (Wayne E Bouchard) [Tue 18 Mar 2014, 23:53 CET]: I have had to do this at times but it is not strictly allowed by codes and not at all recommended. It's an active fire hazard. The cables aren't rated (= built) for the power draw. That's a problem in the other direction, but plugging a 20A device into a 30A feed shouldn't be a hazard at all. Plugging a 20A *PDU* into a 30A receptacle can be dangerous if a) there is more than 20A of load plugged into it b) it has no breaker, and c) the cordset is only 12A, which is what you would expect on a 20A PDU. Cheers, -- jr 'up the voltage' a -- Jay R. Ashworth Baylink j...@baylink.com Designer The Things I Think RFC 2100 Ashworth Associates http://www.bcp38.info 2000 Land Rover DII St Petersburg FL USA BCP38: Ask For It By Name! +1 727 647 1274
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 6:54 PM, Niels Bakker niels=na...@bakker.net wrote: * w...@typo.org (Wayne E Bouchard) [Tue 18 Mar 2014, 23:53 CET]: I have had to do this at times but it is not strictly allowed by codes and not at all recommended. It's an active fire hazard. The cables aren't rated (= built) for the power draw. Meh. It depends. Plug that 30 amp power strip into a 20 amp circuit. Try to use more than 20 amps and the main breaker trips. No problem. Plug that 20 amp power strip into a 30 amp circuit. Try to use more than 20 amps and the strip's breaker trips. No problem. Get a short before the strip breaker and the main breaker trips before the wires can heat. There just aren't a whole lot of failure modes here that result in fire short of one or the other breaker failing. And that results in fire regardless of the amperage mismatch. This, by the way, is why you're allowed to plug that 22 gauge Christmas light wire into a 15 amp receptacle even though it can't handle 15 amps: the 3 amp fuse will blow if there's a short. Just don't plug in anything with lower-rated wire that doesn't have its own breaker or fuse. Regards, Bill Herrin -- William D. Herrin her...@dirtside.com b...@herrin.us 3005 Crane Dr. .. Web: http://bill.herrin.us/ Falls Church, VA 22042-3004
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
On 3/18/2014 2:24 PM, Randy wrote: I have a situation where a 208v/20A PDU (L6-20P) is supposedly hooked to a 208v/30A circuit (L6-30R). Before I order the correct PDU's and whip cords...sanity check...are connectors 'similar' enough that this is possible (with force) or am I going to find we've actually got L6-20R's on the provider side? http://www.amazon.com/L6-20P-L6-30R-Locking-Power-Adapter/dp/B004W359W0 -- Requiescas in pace o email Two identifying characteristics of System Administrators: Ex turpi causa non oritur actio Infallibility, and the ability to learn from their mistakes. (Adapted from Stephen Pinker)
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 09:39:46PM -0400, William Herrin wrote: There just aren't a whole lot of failure modes here that result in fire short of one or the other breaker failing. And that results in fire regardless of the amperage mismatch. This, by the way, is why you're allowed to plug that 22 gauge Christmas light wire into a 15 amp receptacle even though it can't handle 15 amps: the 3 amp fuse will blow if there's a short. Just don't plug in anything with lower-rated wire that doesn't have its own breaker or fuse. Regards, Bill Herrin And that is the result of the way things have been set down. The electrical code (as well as just general common sense) requires that there are multiple levels of protection specifically to try to avoid weird failure modes. So what we end up with is wire that is overrated for the current it is supposed to carry, multiple fusable links inbetween point A and point B and a grounding system that is supposed to safely direct voltage away from people in the event that everything else fails. So back to what I said before, I don't like doing stuff like that and don't advocate it if for no other reason that it makes good sense not to put yourself into a potentially problematic situation. -Wayne --- Wayne Bouchard w...@typo.org Network Dude http://www.typo.org/~web/
Re: L6-20P - L6-30R
On 3/18/2014 6:11 PM, Jay Ashworth wrote: From: Randy a...@djlab.com I have a situation where a 208v/20A PDU (L6-20P) is supposedly hooked to a 208v/30A circuit (L6-30R). Before I order the correct PDU's and whip cords...sanity check...are connectors 'similar' enough that this is possible (with force) or am I going to find we've actually got L6-20R's on the provider side? As it happens, the chart at http://www.stayonline.com/reference-nema-locking.aspx suggests that the L6-20 and L6-30 are less different than you'd expect. I *think* those are on different diameters, and a datacenter employee ought to friggin' know better... but I don't think it's 100% impossible that this has happened. If it did, you're gonna replace the plug anyway... As long as there's a 20A breaker on the PDU, you're safe, if not within code. From experience with some electricians who couldn't follow simple written instructions, it is physically possible to put an L6-20 plug into an L6-30 receptacle. But it won't lock into place. Beyond all the other reasons it's not recommended, the slightest bump of the cable will likely knock it loose causing whatever is on there to drop. (Cue electricans knocking the production 6506E's offline 3 times in 20 minutes while they were replacing the breakers and the supposedly redundant power cords...) If you can unplug it to look, every one I've ever seen has had the voltage and amperage clearly molded into the face of it. Jeremy TheBrez Bresley b...@brezworks.com
Re: Fusion Splicer
Hi Shawn, Maybe 3K USD but i am open to any recommendation. The usage is going to be almost daily It seems Fujikura is the top contender Cheers On 3/18/2014 8:35 PM, Shawn L wrote: It depends on what you mean by affordable and how much you're going to use it. On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 4:47 AM, Pui Edylie em...@edylie.net wrote: Dear Member, Anyone can recommend a reliable and affordable fusion splicer please? Thanks!
