Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Whatbox

2014-04-05 Thread Instrument Resources of America
Speaking of batteries. I don't know how many of you buy batteries 
(cells) at Harbor Freight Tools, but be aware that they sell several 
different cells with different chemistries. Alkaline, which I've bought 
lots of and had no problems, and some VERY INEXPENSIVE cells, that I've 
been told by another customer standing in line with me the following. 
That they were the decades old ZnMgO chemistry, that they would not last 
very long, and that they would most likely leak and damage whatever they 
were in. Just they did to about everything I put them in decades ago. I 
have "NOT" gone to any trouble to verify this though. If any of you know 
for sure, please let us all know. Ira.



On 4/5/2014 6:12 AM, jodell wrote:
My kids call me Buzz Killington when I remind them of the safety 
implications.  Still, maybe a gentle reminder that a)any size cell in 
series at these voltages magnifies the results when any individual 
cell exhausts the reactants within it. b)the electrolyte in Lithium 
cells is flammable/explosive c)if you must, personal protective gear 
and shield your surroundings


I used to work for one of the major battery producers in their R&D 
facility and because I am rampantly curious, asked many questions and 
learned a lot about many of the failure modes of consumer electronics 
and the cells/batteries that power them. If you have cells in series, 
there will always be one cell that that "runs out" first. When it 
does, the rest in the series will "charge" it. Very few chemistries or 
constructions are suitable for this, and generally instead, the water 
within the electrolyte hydrolyses to hydrogen and oxygen.  The gas 
produced naturally expands until some portion of the case fails.  90V 
through an old school "heavy duty" Zn-MgO with a weak paper wrapping 
does no more than ooze, and they were contained in cans surrounded by 
bitumen to pot them.  Failure mode is just leakage and a bit of a 
mess.  In addition, the discharge profile shows gradually decreasing 
voltage, which allows the consumer time to pick up a replacement 
battery long before you get to gas production levels.  For coin cells, 
both Ag and Li-type cells have a really nice discharge profile that 
stays nearly at the rated cell voltage almost all the way to 
depletion, then it drops off to zero very sharply.  Since watches and 
cameras are very expensive to replace when the cells leak, the seals 
on the cells are very very good and will hold a much higher gas 
pressure. (In fact, one test of a watch cell design involved dropping 
one in a solder pot of molten lead or tin and timing till it explodes. 
 Done in a hood with a big splash shield and the door down.)  So when 
one cell switches to charge mode, pressure within can result in a much 
more dramatic failure mode.   With lithium chemistry, lithium reacts 
with water, so an organic (flammable) electrolyte is used. On 
charging, gas production and seal rupture now releases a flammable 
liquid or gas and fire can result.


This is a long-winded explanation that says, if you assemble a 90V 
cell, use the chemistry they did back then with the type of cells they 
used back then, or design your experiment to deal with potential 
explosion and/or fire. Remember that a battery is an oxidation 
reaction controlled in a can, just like gasoline in a car engine is a 
controlled oxidation reaction.  This is Buzz Killington, signing off   :)




On Saturday, April 5, 2014 4:06:47 AM UTC-5, petehand wrote:

Let's apply some engineering to see what kind of battery would do
the job.

Assuming a neon strikes at 90V and extinguishes at 60V, the
average voltage across the resistor would be 15V. Initially, I
arbitrarily choose the series resistor to be 1M and the capacitor
to be 2.2nF. The flash rate would be about 1 every 2 seconds. The
average current per neon would be 15 microamps. Let's say there
are 8, and we want it to run for a year (8000 hours), that means
we need 960mA-hrs.

Somehow I don't think the old radio battery was anywhere near an
amp-hour. So how about 10M resistor and 1nF capacitor. The flash
rate would be about 1 every 10 seconds. It wouldn't be very busy
or very bright but with 8 lamps, something would be happening
often enough to be interesting. The average current would be 1.5uA
so for a year we would need about 100mA-hr. That's doable.

So take a block of something insulating - wood might do - 3 inches
square by an inch deep, drill four 1/2 inch holes right through,
each hole takes 15 LR44-size cells. Fashion a couple of end plates
out of PCB material, solder on bits of spring out of a ball point
pen. Solder a neon christmas tree together like joenixie, attach
to base and connect to battery ends. Stick it on top of the TV and
enjoy it for a year. Sounds like a perfect wet afternoon project
for the (grand)kids!

Now excuse me while I submit this as a little project to fill the

Re: [neonixie-l] Links to Vintage Russian Electronics

2014-04-05 Thread Matthew Smith

Quoth Joseph Bento at 2014-04-06 06:54 ...

Does anyone have links to photos of Russian military equipment that
contains the Nixies we covet?  I'd enjoy seeing photos of IN-17s,
IN-12's etc in service.


Good question. Be nice to see some of the ex-Soviet parts (not just 
Nixies) I'm using in original context.



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[neonixie-l] Re: Whatbox

2014-04-05 Thread Joseph Bento
I always heard them referred to as an "Idiot Box."  Neon relaxation 
oscillators are fun.  Such a device can be built where the lights blink in 
random patterns, or they can be configured to flash in sequence.

90 volts worth of 9v batteries is expensive, and a true B battery cost even 
more.  I tend to use a simple oscillator feeding a backwards filament 
transformer, thereby getting the needed 90v from a few AA cells.  

Joe, N6DGY

On Thursday, April 3, 2014 1:26:06 AM UTC-6, petehand wrote:
>
> Does anyone remember these things?
>
> Brits will deduce the era of this device from the currency. It consisted 
> of simple neon relaxation oscillators powered from a 90V portable tube 
> radio battery, the whole potted in solid plastic. I saw much nicer ones a 
> few years later, with miniature neon bulbs soldered to a wire frame and 
> visible through clear resin potting - the battery was potted in black 
> underneath and couldn't be seen. I had a shot at making one myself, but 
> never succeeded in getting the clear casting resin to set without it 
> heating up and cracking.
>
> These days I've got plenty of neons - does anyone know where I can find a 
> 90V battery? :)
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Links to Vintage Russian Electronics

2014-04-05 Thread Joseph Bento
Does anyone have links to photos of Russian military equipment that 
contains the Nixies we covet?  I'd enjoy seeing photos of IN-17s, IN-12's 
etc in service.

Joe, N6DGY

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Whatbox

2014-04-05 Thread Frank Bemelman

I'm no battery geek, but that last pdf was fun to look at ;-)
Cheers, Frank

-Oorspronkelijk bericht- 
From: John Rehwinkel

Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2014 4:06 PM
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Whatbox

I used to work for one of the major battery producers in their R&D 
facility and because I am rampantly curious, asked many questions


You sound like me!

This is a long-winded explanation that says, if you assemble a 90V cell, 
use the chemistry they did back then with the type of cells they used back 
then,


There is some data lying around.  A NEDA 204 (IEC 60F40, Eveready 490) 90V 
battery, uses 60 #135 cells (LeClanche-Manganese Dioxide) in series. 
Unfortunately, I don't know the specs on an F40 or #135 cell, so I don't 
know the milliamp-hour capacity.  Here's some data I found:


http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/490.pdf

Exell make an alkaline version of this battery (for $34.50), but they don't 
seem to offer any specs on it.  Perhaps I'll ask them.


Data on the "skinny" 90V battery I had is even more scarce.  It's a NEDA 214 
(Eveready 479).  I don't have an IEC code and I don't know what kind of 
cells it was built out of (I'm guessing something like their 140mAh #118 
cells or 200mAh #118P cells).  I took it apart, and it was physically just 
ten 9V rectangular batteries in series, all in a cardboard wrapper with snap 
terminals on top.


Have any clues or data on these old 90V batteries?

Apparently, Union Carbide/Eveready still makes the old 455 (NEDA 202) 45V 
550mAh B battery (30 #130 cells):


http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/455.pdf

And a few folks still offer the monster 510V NEDA 741 (Eveready 497) 
photoflash battery, composed of a whopping 336 #118 cells in series!


http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/497.pdf

I think I'm a battery geek.

- John

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Whatbox

2014-04-05 Thread John Rehwinkel
> I used to work for one of the major battery producers in their R&D facility 
> and because I am rampantly curious, asked many questions

You sound like me!

> This is a long-winded explanation that says, if you assemble a 90V cell, use 
> the chemistry they did back then with the type of cells they used back then,

There is some data lying around.  A NEDA 204 (IEC 60F40, Eveready 490) 90V 
battery, uses 60 #135 cells (LeClanche-Manganese Dioxide) in series.  
Unfortunately, I don't know the specs on an F40 or #135 cell, so I don't know 
the milliamp-hour capacity.  Here's some data I found:

http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/490.pdf

Exell make an alkaline version of this battery (for $34.50), but they don't 
seem to offer any specs on it.  Perhaps I'll ask them.

Data on the "skinny" 90V battery I had is even more scarce.  It's a NEDA 214 
(Eveready 479).  I don't have an IEC code and I don't know what kind of cells 
it was built out of (I'm guessing something like their 140mAh #118 cells or 
200mAh #118P cells).  I took it apart, and it was physically just ten 9V 
rectangular batteries in series, all in a cardboard wrapper with snap terminals 
on top.

Have any clues or data on these old 90V batteries?

Apparently, Union Carbide/Eveready still makes the old 455 (NEDA 202) 45V 
550mAh B battery (30 #130 cells):

http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/455.pdf

And a few folks still offer the monster 510V NEDA 741 (Eveready 497) photoflash 
battery, composed of a whopping 336 #118 cells in series!

http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/497.pdf

I think I'm a battery geek.

- John

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[neonixie-l] Re: Whatbox

2014-04-05 Thread jodell
My kids call me Buzz Killington when I remind them of the safety 
implications.  Still, maybe a gentle reminder that a)any size cell in 
series at these voltages magnifies the results when any individual cell 
exhausts the reactants within it. b)the electrolyte in Lithium cells is 
flammable/explosive c)if you must, personal protective gear and shield your 
surroundings

I used to work for one of the major battery producers in their R&D facility 
and because I am rampantly curious, asked many questions and learned a lot 
about many of the failure modes of consumer electronics and the 
cells/batteries that power them. If you have cells in series, there will 
always be one cell that that "runs out" first. When it does, the rest in 
the series will "charge" it. Very few chemistries or constructions are 
suitable for this, and generally instead, the water within the electrolyte 
hydrolyses to hydrogen and oxygen.  The gas produced naturally expands 
until some portion of the case fails.  90V through an old school "heavy 
duty" Zn-MgO with a weak paper wrapping does no more than ooze, and they 
were contained in cans surrounded by bitumen to pot them.  Failure mode is 
just leakage and a bit of a mess.  In addition, the discharge profile shows 
gradually decreasing voltage, which allows the consumer time to pick up a 
replacement battery long before you get to gas production levels.  For coin 
cells, both Ag and Li-type cells have a really nice discharge profile that 
stays nearly at the rated cell voltage almost all the way to depletion, 
then it drops off to zero very sharply.  Since watches and cameras are very 
expensive to replace when the cells leak, the seals on the cells are very 
very good and will hold a much higher gas pressure. (In fact, one test of a 
watch cell design involved dropping one in a solder pot of molten lead or 
tin and timing till it explodes.  Done in a hood with a big splash shield 
and the door down.)  So when one cell switches to charge mode, pressure 
within can result in a much more dramatic failure mode.   With lithium 
chemistry, lithium reacts with water, so an organic (flammable) electrolyte 
is used. On charging, gas production and seal rupture now releases a 
flammable liquid or gas and fire can result.  

This is a long-winded explanation that says, if you assemble a 90V cell, 
use the chemistry they did back then with the type of cells they used back 
then, or design your experiment to deal with potential explosion and/or 
fire. Remember that a battery is an oxidation reaction controlled in a can, 
just like gasoline in a car engine is a controlled oxidation reaction. 
 This is Buzz Killington, signing off   :)



On Saturday, April 5, 2014 4:06:47 AM UTC-5, petehand wrote:
>
> Let's apply some engineering to see what kind of battery would do the job.
>
> Assuming a neon strikes at 90V and extinguishes at 60V, the average 
> voltage across the resistor would be 15V. Initially, I arbitrarily choose 
> the series resistor to be 1M and the capacitor to be 2.2nF. The flash rate 
> would be about 1 every 2 seconds. The average current per neon would be 15 
> microamps. Let's say there are 8, and we want it to run for a year (8000 
> hours), that means we need 960mA-hrs.
>
> Somehow I don't think the old radio battery was anywhere near an amp-hour. 
> So how about 10M resistor and 1nF capacitor. The flash rate would be about 
> 1 every 10 seconds. It wouldn't be very busy or very bright but with 8 
> lamps, something would be happening often enough to be interesting. The 
> average current would be 1.5uA so for a year we would need about 100mA-hr. 
> That's doable.
>
> So take a block of something insulating - wood might do - 3 inches square 
> by an inch deep, drill four 1/2 inch holes right through, each hole takes 
> 15 LR44-size cells. Fashion a couple of end plates out of PCB material, 
> solder on bits of spring out of a ball point pen. Solder a neon christmas 
> tree together like joenixie, attach to base and connect to battery ends. 
> Stick it on top of the TV and enjoy it for a year. Sounds like a perfect 
> wet afternoon project for the (grand)kids!
>
> Now excuse me while I submit this as a little project to fill the gap in 
> my favorite magazine. Actually, all kidding aside, this is the kind of 
> thing that might appeal to Make Magazine.
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Whatbox

2014-04-05 Thread petehand
Let's apply some engineering to see what kind of battery would do the job.

Assuming a neon strikes at 90V and extinguishes at 60V, the average voltage 
across the resistor would be 15V. Initially, I arbitrarily choose the 
series resistor to be 1M and the capacitor to be 2.2nF. The flash rate 
would be about 1 every 2 seconds. The average current per neon would be 15 
microamps. Let's say there are 8, and we want it to run for a year (8000 
hours), that means we need 960mA-hrs.

Somehow I don't think the old radio battery was anywhere near an amp-hour. 
So how about 10M resistor and 1nF capacitor. The flash rate would be about 
1 every 10 seconds. It wouldn't be very busy or very bright but with 8 
lamps, something would be happening often enough to be interesting. The 
average current would be 1.5uA so for a year we would need about 100mA-hr. 
That's doable.

So take a block of something insulating - wood might do - 3 inches square 
by an inch deep, drill four 1/2 inch holes right through, each hole takes 
15 LR44-size cells. Fashion a couple of end plates out of PCB material, 
solder on bits of spring out of a ball point pen. Solder a neon christmas 
tree together like joenixie, attach to base and connect to battery ends. 
Stick it on top of the TV and enjoy it for a year. Sounds like a perfect 
wet afternoon project for the (grand)kids!

Now excuse me while I submit this as a little project to fill the gap in my 
favorite magazine. Actually, all kidding aside, this is the kind of thing 
that might appeal to Make Magazine.

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