[neonixie-l] My favorite Nixie tube

[Paul Andrews]

at least for now! Just de-soldered a bunch of these from an old counter 
(and some 7441A chips). They were very grimy, but cleaned up nicely and 
they all work well. Cathodes are shiny and there is no darkening on the 
glass:




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[neonixie-l] Re: Yahoo! group files section...

[GastonP]

The old link is dead.
The new one works.
However (I did not try it but the option is not grayed out) I could delete 
a file from the regular (not TEMP) folders. It seems it does not actually 
removes the file from the drive but only from my view but I'd be careful 
for now.

Regards
G.

On Sunday, March 26, 2017 at 8:00:53 AM UTC-3, Nick wrote:
>
> The moderators should now be able to edit everything and create/delete in 
> the tree as required.
>
> Please check this.
>
> Please be careful!
>
> Nick
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Lighting up an IV-15

[Dylan Distasio]

Thanks, Paul!

On Mon, Mar 27, 2017 at 3:47 PM, Paul Andrews  wrote:

> Hi,
>
> As bought some DM160 and IV-15 tubes a while back. It was difficult to
> find much information on either, but especially the IV-15 tubes. There is a
> partial translation of the Russian data sheet here on this group and I
> managed to find some more information at http://www.radiomuseum.org/
> tubes/tube_iv-15.html (which also has the only diagram I have been able
> to find of the pin outs. So I though I would present my own results for the
> IV-15 here (I have already done so for the DM160 separately).
>
> Basically the IV-15 is pretty much a drop-in replacement for the DM160,
> except that the filament voltage and current should be 0.6V and 42mA
> respectively.
>
> Controlling the brightness is also done by pulling the grid voltage -ve
> wrt to the filament, anything below around -3V will turn it off completely.
> 0V is full brightness.
>
> The 'HV' for the anode can be anything from around 10V to 50V, which is
> slightly more lenient on the low end than the DM160. However, with only 10V
> on the anode, the filament will not be very bright and you won't really be
> able to control it with the grid because you will need to be pulling the
> filament voltage to about 0V (so pulling the grid lower is hard?).
>
> Anyway, here is one setup that works - it is almost identical to my setup
> for the DM160, apart from the resistor values for the filament (the
> resistor values ideal rather than practical, approximations should be fine):
>
>
> 
>
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Re: [neonixie-l] Lighting up an IV-15

[Paul Andrews]

Here's a picture



> On Mar 27, 2017, at 3:47 PM, Paul Andrews  wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> As bought some DM160 and IV-15 tubes a while back. It was difficult to find 
> much information on either, but especially the IV-15 tubes. There is a 
> partial translation of the Russian data sheet here on this group and I 
> managed to find some more information at 
> http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_iv-15.html (which also has the only 
> diagram I have been able to find of the pin outs. So I though I would present 
> my own results for the IV-15 here (I have already done so for the DM160 
> separately).
> 
> Basically the IV-15 is pretty much a drop-in replacement for the DM160, 
> except that the filament voltage and current should be 0.6V and 42mA 
> respectively.
> 
> Controlling the brightness is also done by pulling the grid voltage -ve wrt 
> to the filament, anything below around -3V will turn it off completely. 0V is 
> full brightness.
> 
> The 'HV' for the anode can be anything from around 10V to 50V, which is 
> slightly more lenient on the low end than the DM160. However, with only 10V 
> on the anode, the filament will not be very bright and you won't really be 
> able to control it with the grid because you will need to be pulling the 
> filament voltage to about 0V (so pulling the grid lower is hard?).
> 
> Anyway, here is one setup that works - it is almost identical to my setup for 
> the DM160, apart from the resistor values for the filament (the resistor 
> values ideal rather than practical, approximations should be fine):
> 
> 
> 
> 
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[neonixie-l] Lighting up an IV-15

[Paul Andrews]

Hi,

As bought some DM160 and IV-15 tubes a while back. It was difficult to find 
much information on either, but especially the IV-15 tubes. There is a 
partial translation of the Russian data sheet here on this group and I 
managed to find some more information 
at http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_iv-15.html (which also has the 
only diagram I have been able to find of the pin outs. So I though I would 
present my own results for the IV-15 here (I have already done so for the 
DM160 separately).

Basically the IV-15 is pretty much a drop-in replacement for the DM160, 
except that the filament voltage and current should be 0.6V and 42mA 
respectively.

Controlling the brightness is also done by pulling the grid voltage -ve wrt 
to the filament, anything below around -3V will turn it off completely. 0V 
is full brightness.

The 'HV' for the anode can be anything from around 10V to 50V, which is 
slightly more lenient on the low end than the DM160. However, with only 10V 
on the anode, the filament will not be very bright and you won't really be 
able to control it with the grid because you will need to be pulling the 
filament voltage to about 0V (so pulling the grid lower is hard?).

Anyway, here is one setup that works - it is almost identical to my setup 
for the DM160, apart from the resistor values for the filament (the 
resistor values ideal rather than practical, approximations should be fine):



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[neonixie-l] Re: Radioactive Nixies - Study

['Dave' via neonixie-l]

*Norskman*,
 I have privately replied.
Please do the same or email me so we don't fill up this thread with posts.
thanks


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[neonixie-l] Re: Constant current source design

[Tomasz Kowalczyk]

It all depends on R11 and desired current. Most nixies have a minimum 
voltage drop of around 120V (although they will maintain 130 for most of 
the time, they will just continue to work with lower voltage), so if 
voltage drop on R11 is more than (supply voltage - 120V - 
LM317_max_voltage), then it is safe - the only case where the nixie doesn't 
have that voltage drop is when it is internally shorted.
In this schematic, assuming that U15 is fully open, so voltage at R11 left 
side is just about 180V, everything will be okay - the LM317 is set for 
8mA, so voltage drop over R11 would be around 34V and everythin would be 
safe. The problem is that if current is significantly lower that (nixie is 
heavily poisoned), then stuff can get bad: as far as I understand, R11 
voltage drop has to be lower (Ohms law), so the voltage across LM317 will 
get higher, I think - it has to drop somewhere.
Long story short, you are right - LM317 can fail in non-standard situation. 
That's why I would go for a two-transistor design using MMBTA42 (or 
MPSA42), which will withstand almost anything. The only problem is power 
dissipation - 5mA with 50 volts drop across current limiting circuit is 
0,25W. With such constant current design one should lower HV voltage to 
minimum (just above striking point of all nixies), normally the 
significantly higher voltage (200V) is used to make choosing limiting 
resistor easier.

W dniu poniedziałek, 27 marca 2017 04:17:46 UTC+2 użytkownik gregebert 
napisał:
>
> I dont see anything fundamentally wrong; I just have paranoia about 
> running devices in an environment where this is potential for overvoltage. 
> The LM317 is rated for ~35V, and the HV supply is around 180V, so you are 
> relying on the voltage drop across the nixie tube. There are all kinds of 
> unexpected things that happen during power-up/down; maybe there are 
> scenarios that could damage the LM317.
>
>
>
>
>

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