Re: [neonixie-l] Re: In18 displaying cathode poisoning after 1000hrs or less.

[Trumpeter]

Hi folks, 

I have had some time to troubleshoot my clock.  I found that when running in 
night mode the tubes are supplied with around 1 mA, and when in day mode are 
supplied 5 mA.  These readings are taken between the annode resistor (10k) and 
annode.  My understanding is the tubes should receive between 4-6 mA.  Could 
the lower night mode current be causing the problems with positioning? I did 
confirm the tubes are suffering poisioning because I have been able to 
rejuvenate them by running the offending digits at 10 mA for between 30 min to 
3 hours.  I'm thinking of running the clock on day mode continuously to see if 
the tubes begin to heal themselves.  Thoughts? Anything else I should be 
looking at? 

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[neonixie-l] Datasheet, pinout, or hint for IV-29 single-dot VFD?

[Mark03]

Several years ago I purchased two IN-28 and two IV-29 from a gentleman in 
Ukraine.  The IN-28s I used in a Nixie clock project, but the IV-29s are 
still sitting in my tube collection.  If I had any data at the time, I've 
since lost it, and careful googling doesn't offer any hints.  The IV-29 
does not appear in Dieter's data archive.

Clearly someone knows how to light up a IV-29, as there are modern photos 
of it glowing a pretty turquoise.  Does anyone here know the pinout, or 
better yet, have an actual datasheet?

Thanks,
Mark

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[neonixie-l] Re: Tube testing?

[Paul Andrews]

Before I proceed, I would like to paraphrase the original article I read on 
DecadeCounter 

 (here 
presented to you courtesy of the WayBack machine, because I can't find the 
original any more): *Disclaimer: Injury or death resulting from the 
disassembly of an electric fly swat is your own damn fault.*

I made a 'tube tester' out of one of those electric fly swats. I took it 
apart and removed the big fat capacitor and resistor between the outputs. 
then I waved a nixie tube around the circuit to figure out what gave a good 
glow and attached a long enough length of wire there to stick out the end 
of the handle when I put it all back together:




Lighting up a tube:





If you touch some of the pins, things get interesting:





Naturally, I played around with creating some sparks between the output 
leads after I removed the capacitor and resistor, but before I removed the 
leads :)

Well, that's it, I've done it and can move on!

On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 10:12:25 AM UTC-5, Paul Andrews wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I received a shipment of tubes (Z5900M) that I want to fire up (becasue, 
> you know, I want to see them glow!). I have a cold cathode tube power 
> supply. Could I use that? DO I need to add a resistor to the anode? Should 
> I get me a power supply of some sort instead? If so what?
>
> Very naive when it comes to electronics, but not a complete newb.
>
> Thanks - Paul
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Constant current source design

[Nick]

On Friday, 12 May 2017 17:42:58 UTC+4, Luka C wrote:
>
> @Nick - I know that cathode current control per segment might seem a bit 
> of an overkill, but as @greg said, considering the price of the tubes, I 
> think we should do our best to meet all of the datasheet specs if possible. 
> And if you carefully look at the datasheet, consider the case you want to 
> display a character like "*" (asterisk), then add together the currents of 
> each segment from the datasheet and it will exceed the maximum anode 
> current defined in the same datasheet, this is why each cathode current 
> should be adjusted so that if you add them all together, the sum will be 
> lower than the maximum anode current (of course, how much this really 
> impacts the life of the tube will remain a mystery I guess, but we should 
> still be careful)
>

Are you sure you're not looking at the maximum rather than the normal 
current ratings for each element ?

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Membership...

[Nick]

I notice that the very first 401 messages are missing from the Yahoo!! 
archive - what happened to those?

Nick

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