Re: [neonixie-l] Re: New Nixie Clock now available at Badnixie.com, The "Black Emerald-8971"

2020-11-08 Thread MichaelB
Sure ,but what sort of issues?

On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 8:00:29 PM UTC-8 Bill Notfaded wrote:

> Sign me up for one Michael.  My original had issues from the beginning on 
> my B8971 clock.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> On Sun, Nov 8, 2020, 8:54 PM MichaelB  wrote:
>
>> Per my direct email to Peter, We will have a limited quantity of Wireless 
>> PIRs available in the next week.
>>
>> On Friday, October 30, 2020 at 10:14:15 PM UTC-7 Nathan Diniz wrote:
>>
>>> Unfortunately no. 
>>>
>>> On Fri, Oct 30, 2020, 6:53 PM Peter Doroba  wrote:
>>>
 Hello,

 Do you have any wireless PIR modules available?

 Pete

 On Saturday, March 23, 2019 at 11:11:03 AM UTC-4 MichaelB wrote:

> Qualifying my last statement, Clocks are sold out, but our MOD-PIR 
> Wireless PIR is still available and compatible with most all MOD-SIX's! 
>
> On Friday, March 22, 2019 at 10:40:59 AM UTC-7, MichaelB wrote:
>>
>> Just sold the last one. Thank You ALL!!!
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 20, 2019 at 7:48:56 PM UTC-7, MichaelB wrote:
>>>
>>> ONE LEFT GUYS, WITH TUBES!  Please let me know ASAP if someone wants 
>>> it before I advertise it on Ebay.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, March 14, 2019 at 5:16:29 AM UTC-7, Nathan Diniz wrote:

 I would just LOVE to have some alarms & chime options for this and 
 the MOD-SIX, and have customizable routines that happen when the 
 chimes or 
 alarms are activated.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Who is interested in IN33?

2020-11-08 Thread Yuriy Ovchinnikov
I will prepare the package and write. OG-9 is almost identical to OG-4.


пн, 9 нояб. 2020 г. в 00:02, Andrew ODonnell :

> Hi
>
> I'm interested in following;
>
> 2x IN-33
> 1x A-108
> 2x IVL-2-7/5
> 1x IVL-1-7/5
> 2x IVLShU-1-11/2
>
> please. Ship to UK.
>
> Also the OG-9, price and is it metal base or plastic/bakelite? Am I right
> in thinking the OG-9 is almost identical to the OG-4 (double pulse 30 pins
> etc)?
>
> Thanks
>
> On Monday, 26 October 2020 at 20:01:58 UTC Юрий Овчинников wrote:
>
>> Now I have:
>>
>> CRT VFD Indicator Tube ILD3-L (green) – 50 pcs.
>>
>>  and ILD3-K (red) – 50 pcs.
>>
>> A-108 – 6 pcs. for $20
>>
>> A-201 – 13 pcs. for $40
>>
>> IV-1 – 39 pcs. for $0.6,
>> IV-28А – 1 pcs. for $3,
>> IVL-1-7/5 – 2 pcs. for $10,
>>
>> IVL-2-7/5 – 24 pcs. for $1.5,
>>
>> IVLShU-1-11/2 – 39 pcs. for $5,
>>
>> IN-3 – 199 pcs. for $0.5,
>>
>> IN-4 – 2 pcs.
>>
>> IN-7 – 4 pcs.
>>
>> IN-13 – 3 pcs. for $3
>>
>> IN-15А – 101 pcs. for $1,
>>
>> IN-16 – 1000 pcs.
>>
>> IN-17 – 120 pcs.
>> IN-19A used – 1 pc. for $1.5,
>>
>> IN-19B used – 1 pc. for $1.5,
>>
>> IN-19V – 2 pcs. for $2,
>>
>> IN-28 – 79 pcs. for $3
>>
>> LC-531 used – 1 pc. for $2
>>
>> OG-9 – 5 pcs.
>>
>> 5870 ITT England used – 8 pcs. for $10
>>
>> Z570M – 4 pcs.
>>
>> Z5700M used – 29 pcs.
>> Z573M – 11 pcs.
>>
>> чт, 22 окт. 2020 г. в 03:56, Yohan Park :
>>
>>> On Wednesday, October 21, 2020 at 8:13:39 PM UTC+2 Юрий Овчинников wrote:
>>>
 Maybe you need some other lamps?

 Can you send me a list of what you have in stock please?

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>>> .
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: New Nixie Clock now available at Badnixie.com, The "Black Emerald-8971"

2020-11-08 Thread Bill Notfaded
Sign me up for one Michael.  My original had issues from the beginning on
my B8971 clock.

Thanks,

Bill

On Sun, Nov 8, 2020, 8:54 PM MichaelB  wrote:

> Per my direct email to Peter, We will have a limited quantity of Wireless
> PIRs available in the next week.
>
> On Friday, October 30, 2020 at 10:14:15 PM UTC-7 Nathan Diniz wrote:
>
>> Unfortunately no.
>>
>> On Fri, Oct 30, 2020, 6:53 PM Peter Doroba  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> Do you have any wireless PIR modules available?
>>>
>>> Pete
>>>
>>> On Saturday, March 23, 2019 at 11:11:03 AM UTC-4 MichaelB wrote:
>>>
 Qualifying my last statement, Clocks are sold out, but our MOD-PIR
 Wireless PIR is still available and compatible with most all MOD-SIX's!

 On Friday, March 22, 2019 at 10:40:59 AM UTC-7, MichaelB wrote:
>
> Just sold the last one. Thank You ALL!!!
>
> On Wednesday, March 20, 2019 at 7:48:56 PM UTC-7, MichaelB wrote:
>>
>> ONE LEFT GUYS, WITH TUBES!  Please let me know ASAP if someone wants
>> it before I advertise it on Ebay.
>>
>> On Thursday, March 14, 2019 at 5:16:29 AM UTC-7, Nathan Diniz wrote:
>>>
>>> I would just LOVE to have some alarms & chime options for this and
>>> the MOD-SIX, and have customizable routines that happen when the chimes 
>>> or
>>> alarms are activated.
>>>
>> --
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: New Nixie Clock now available at Badnixie.com, The "Black Emerald-8971"

2020-11-08 Thread MichaelB
Per my direct email to Peter, We will have a limited quantity of Wireless 
PIRs available in the next week.

On Friday, October 30, 2020 at 10:14:15 PM UTC-7 Nathan Diniz wrote:

> Unfortunately no. 
>
> On Fri, Oct 30, 2020, 6:53 PM Peter Doroba  wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> Do you have any wireless PIR modules available?
>>
>> Pete
>>
>> On Saturday, March 23, 2019 at 11:11:03 AM UTC-4 MichaelB wrote:
>>
>>> Qualifying my last statement, Clocks are sold out, but our MOD-PIR 
>>> Wireless PIR is still available and compatible with most all MOD-SIX's! 
>>>
>>> On Friday, March 22, 2019 at 10:40:59 AM UTC-7, MichaelB wrote:

 Just sold the last one. Thank You ALL!!!

 On Wednesday, March 20, 2019 at 7:48:56 PM UTC-7, MichaelB wrote:
>
> ONE LEFT GUYS, WITH TUBES!  Please let me know ASAP if someone wants 
> it before I advertise it on Ebay.
>
> On Thursday, March 14, 2019 at 5:16:29 AM UTC-7, Nathan Diniz wrote:
>>
>> I would just LOVE to have some alarms & chime options for this and 
>> the MOD-SIX, and have customizable routines that happen when the chimes 
>> or 
>> alarms are activated.
>>
> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Nixie tubes in movies

2020-11-08 Thread Nick Andrews
I suspected as much due to the way the digits looked.  On a tv it is hard
to notice,  but on the big screen it kinda stuck out.  Of course it still
made the typical Hollywood clicking sounds,  like geiger counters that
don't have audio clicking away in movies...

On Sun, Nov 8, 2020, 9:19 PM Richard Scales  wrote:

> I think you will find that these are 'edge lit' displays - perspex sheets
> with the digits engraved, lit at the edge by incandescent bulbs which
> causes the digit to 'light up'.
>  - Richard
>
>
>
>
> On Sunday, 8 November 2020 23:58:57 UTC, Nick Andrews wrote:
>>
>> Just watched Goldfinger at theater.   Long time since I was in a movie
>> theater!  In the bomb scene,  the counter had what soar to be nixie tubes,
>> with fainter,  yellowish digits.  Anybody know what they are?
>>
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[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie tubes in movies

2020-11-08 Thread Richard Scales
I think you will find that these are 'edge lit' displays - perspex sheets 
with the digits engraved, lit at the edge by incandescent bulbs which 
causes the digit to 'light up'.
 - Richard




On Sunday, 8 November 2020 23:58:57 UTC, Nick Andrews wrote:
>
> Just watched Goldfinger at theater.   Long time since I was in a movie 
> theater!  In the bomb scene,  the counter had what soar to be nixie tubes,  
> with fainter,  yellowish digits.  Anybody know what they are? 
>

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[neonixie-l] Nixie tubes in movies

2020-11-08 Thread Nick Andrews
Just watched Goldfinger at theater.   Long time since I was in a movie
theater!  In the bomb scene,  the counter had what soar to be nixie tubes,
with fainter,  yellowish digits.  Anybody know what they are?

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[neonixie-l] Re: Troubleshooting 3-guide dekatron

2020-11-08 Thread Jon
Difficult to say for sure without seeing the circuit, but if it spins fine 
one way but not the other, most likely you've just got a bit of a sticky 
tube. Particularly if the performance is improving with use - it's a very 
common observation when waking up dekatrons after a few decades asleep, 
though some models are more prone to it than others. I generally find that 
a few hours use clears up most of these issues and it doesn't seem to 
matter too much how fast you spin it while doing that. I'm drawn to the 
idea that a slower step should be better - give a little bit more time for 
the glow to really heat up the cathode and burn any crud off it. But I've 
no objective evidence to support that view - difficult to do controlled 
experiments. If you get a really recalcitrant cathode, then sometimes 
letting the glow rest there for a couple of minutes while running the tube 
at a current a little above the maximum rated value can be useful. What 
current are you operating the tube at?

Having said that, can you tell which cathode seems to be sticky? If it's K0 
or the guide pins immediately either side of that, then you might have a 
tube which has been heavily used in an application where it's been stuck on 
one cathode (usually K0) for many hours. That can cause erosion of K0 by 
sputtering and deposition of material on the faces of the neighbouring 
guide cathodes - in both cases the surface properties of the cathodes are 
changed which can cause stickiness. And in bad cases that can be incurable. 
It's more of a issue on the neon-filled tubes though than the 
helium/hydrogen ones like your OG3 (there is no argon in there BTW, that's 
an oft-repeated error).

Jon.


On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 10:02:46 PM UTC andrewodo...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks for the tips
>
> I have an A101 and an OG4 running great on the same circuit - just having 
> issues getting the 3-guide OG3 running (i'm aware the OG3 needs more 
> amperage and a different drive circuit and it's got that). Anode to main 
> cathode voltage is about 225 and Anode to Guides is about 180 so yeah about 
> 45 volts drop for the guides compared to the main cathode. 
>
> What makes you suggest a slightly higher voltage drop at the cathode 
> resistors - something about the appearance?
>
> As for drive, i've taken a fairly simple 4-step approach (I can reverse 
> the direction and it doesn't stick so i'm happy the drive is working unless 
> i'm missing anything?)
>
> It's been running for about 2 hours now and it's improving constantly - 
> much less sticking each time, so I suspect it's mostly the Dekatron itself 
> being sticky. I'll leave it overnight and see if this helps. it's probably 
> also worth noting it only sticks clockwise - if I run it anticlockwise it 
> spins fine.
>
> On Sunday, 8 November 2020 at 21:30:44 UTC gregebert wrote:
>
>> First thing to check is your timing. I use a symmetric 6-phase approach 
>> where you have overlap on the 3 groups of cathodes.
>> Secondly, you might need a bit more voltage-drop at the cathode resistors 
>> (ie, make them slightly higher value).
>>
>> I had this problem with my homebrew A101 spinner, and once I had about 30 
>> volts across the cathode resistors it continues to run flawlessly after 
>> nearly 8 years of continuous operation.
>> On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 12:16:54 PM UTC-8 andrewodo...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> I'm playing around and familiarising myself with Dekatrons. Have an 
>>> arduino-interface PCB so running them off Arduino. OG-4 and A101 running 
>>> nicely but i'm struggling with the Argon 3-guide tubes.
>>>
>>> Here's a video of what it's doing - it looks like it's driving correctly 
>>> but it's failing usually at the same pin everytime. But sometimes it's 
>>> circling nicely.
>>>
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/tznRK8o7DN14wGbX7 
>>>
>>> Is this a hardware fault ('sticky' pin on the dekatron) or is this a 
>>> fault in my software to drive it?
>>>
>>> I know some Dekatrons can be a bit tricky and sticky, if this is just a 
>>> sticky pin, what's the best way to try and resolve it? If the answer is 
>>> 'run it for hours' - is it best to run it super fast or slow?
>>>
>>> Many Thanks
>>>
>>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Troubleshooting 3-guide dekatron

2020-11-08 Thread gregebert
The reason I suggested boosting the cathode voltage was based on my own 
experience with the A101; apparently I misread the datasheet and thought it 
needed about 15V, and it didn't work smoothly. After boosting it, it ran 
much better. At 45 volts, your design has plenty of margin for the A101 and 
the OG4 based on the datasheets I found online. If the current is correct 
(400uA), the only other factor you can control is the timing.

Once you have it working smoothly, try reducing your anode voltage to make 
sure there is some margin in the design, so that as the tube ages it will 
still work.
On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 2:02:46 PM UTC-8 andrewodo...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Thanks for the tips
>
> I have an A101 and an OG4 running great on the same circuit - just having 
> issues getting the 3-guide OG3 running (i'm aware the OG3 needs more 
> amperage and a different drive circuit and it's got that). Anode to main 
> cathode voltage is about 225 and Anode to Guides is about 180 so yeah about 
> 45 volts drop for the guides compared to the main cathode. 
>
> What makes you suggest a slightly higher voltage drop at the cathode 
> resistors - something about the appearance?
>
> As for drive, i've taken a fairly simple 4-step approach (I can reverse 
> the direction and it doesn't stick so i'm happy the drive is working unless 
> i'm missing anything?)
>
> It's been running for about 2 hours now and it's improving constantly - 
> much less sticking each time, so I suspect it's mostly the Dekatron itself 
> being sticky. I'll leave it overnight and see if this helps. it's probably 
> also worth noting it only sticks clockwise - if I run it anticlockwise it 
> spins fine.
>
> On Sunday, 8 November 2020 at 21:30:44 UTC gregebert wrote:
>
>> First thing to check is your timing. I use a symmetric 6-phase approach 
>> where you have overlap on the 3 groups of cathodes.
>> Secondly, you might need a bit more voltage-drop at the cathode resistors 
>> (ie, make them slightly higher value).
>>
>> I had this problem with my homebrew A101 spinner, and once I had about 30 
>> volts across the cathode resistors it continues to run flawlessly after 
>> nearly 8 years of continuous operation.
>> On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 12:16:54 PM UTC-8 andrewodo...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> I'm playing around and familiarising myself with Dekatrons. Have an 
>>> arduino-interface PCB so running them off Arduino. OG-4 and A101 running 
>>> nicely but i'm struggling with the Argon 3-guide tubes.
>>>
>>> Here's a video of what it's doing - it looks like it's driving correctly 
>>> but it's failing usually at the same pin everytime. But sometimes it's 
>>> circling nicely.
>>>
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/tznRK8o7DN14wGbX7 
>>>
>>> Is this a hardware fault ('sticky' pin on the dekatron) or is this a 
>>> fault in my software to drive it?
>>>
>>> I know some Dekatrons can be a bit tricky and sticky, if this is just a 
>>> sticky pin, what's the best way to try and resolve it? If the answer is 
>>> 'run it for hours' - is it best to run it super fast or slow?
>>>
>>> Many Thanks
>>>
>>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Troubleshooting 3-guide dekatron

2020-11-08 Thread Andrew ODonnell
Thanks for the tips

I have an A101 and an OG4 running great on the same circuit - just having 
issues getting the 3-guide OG3 running (i'm aware the OG3 needs more 
amperage and a different drive circuit and it's got that). Anode to main 
cathode voltage is about 225 and Anode to Guides is about 180 so yeah about 
45 volts drop for the guides compared to the main cathode. 

What makes you suggest a slightly higher voltage drop at the cathode 
resistors - something about the appearance?

As for drive, i've taken a fairly simple 4-step approach (I can reverse the 
direction and it doesn't stick so i'm happy the drive is working unless i'm 
missing anything?)

It's been running for about 2 hours now and it's improving constantly - 
much less sticking each time, so I suspect it's mostly the Dekatron itself 
being sticky. I'll leave it overnight and see if this helps. it's probably 
also worth noting it only sticks clockwise - if I run it anticlockwise it 
spins fine.

On Sunday, 8 November 2020 at 21:30:44 UTC gregebert wrote:

> First thing to check is your timing. I use a symmetric 6-phase approach 
> where you have overlap on the 3 groups of cathodes.
> Secondly, you might need a bit more voltage-drop at the cathode resistors 
> (ie, make them slightly higher value).
>
> I had this problem with my homebrew A101 spinner, and once I had about 30 
> volts across the cathode resistors it continues to run flawlessly after 
> nearly 8 years of continuous operation.
> On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 12:16:54 PM UTC-8 andrewodo...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi
>>
>> I'm playing around and familiarising myself with Dekatrons. Have an 
>> arduino-interface PCB so running them off Arduino. OG-4 and A101 running 
>> nicely but i'm struggling with the Argon 3-guide tubes.
>>
>> Here's a video of what it's doing - it looks like it's driving correctly 
>> but it's failing usually at the same pin everytime. But sometimes it's 
>> circling nicely.
>>
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/tznRK8o7DN14wGbX7 
>>
>> Is this a hardware fault ('sticky' pin on the dekatron) or is this a 
>> fault in my software to drive it?
>>
>> I know some Dekatrons can be a bit tricky and sticky, if this is just a 
>> sticky pin, what's the best way to try and resolve it? If the answer is 
>> 'run it for hours' - is it best to run it super fast or slow?
>>
>> Many Thanks
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Who is interested in IN33?

2020-11-08 Thread Andrew ODonnell
Hi

I'm interested in following;

2x IN-33
1x A-108
2x IVL-2-7/5
1x IVL-1-7/5
2x IVLShU-1-11/2

please. Ship to UK.

Also the OG-9, price and is it metal base or plastic/bakelite? Am I right 
in thinking the OG-9 is almost identical to the OG-4 (double pulse 30 pins 
etc)?

Thanks

On Monday, 26 October 2020 at 20:01:58 UTC Юрий Овчинников wrote:

> Now I have:
>
> CRT VFD Indicator Tube ILD3-L (green) – 50 pcs.
>
>  and ILD3-K (red) – 50 pcs.
>
> A-108 – 6 pcs. for $20
>
> A-201 – 13 pcs. for $40
>
> IV-1 – 39 pcs. for $0.6,
> IV-28А – 1 pcs. for $3,
> IVL-1-7/5 – 2 pcs. for $10,
>
> IVL-2-7/5 – 24 pcs. for $1.5,
>
> IVLShU-1-11/2 – 39 pcs. for $5,
>
> IN-3 – 199 pcs. for $0.5,
>
> IN-4 – 2 pcs.
>
> IN-7 – 4 pcs.
>
> IN-13 – 3 pcs. for $3
>
> IN-15А – 101 pcs. for $1,
>
> IN-16 – 1000 pcs.
>
> IN-17 – 120 pcs.
> IN-19A used – 1 pc. for $1.5,
>
> IN-19B used – 1 pc. for $1.5,
>
> IN-19V – 2 pcs. for $2,
>
> IN-28 – 79 pcs. for $3
>
> LC-531 used – 1 pc. for $2
>
> OG-9 – 5 pcs.
>
> 5870 ITT England used – 8 pcs. for $10
>
> Z570M – 4 pcs.
>
> Z5700M used – 29 pcs.
> Z573M – 11 pcs.
>
> чт, 22 окт. 2020 г. в 03:56, Yohan Park :
>
>> On Wednesday, October 21, 2020 at 8:13:39 PM UTC+2 Юрий Овчинников wrote:
>>
>>> Maybe you need some other lamps?
>>>
>>> Can you send me a list of what you have in stock please?
>>>
>> -- 
>>
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>> "neonixie-l" group.
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>> email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
>>
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/d869040e-8a91-4b96-a354-c6235cf82cd8n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Troubleshooting 3-guide dekatron

2020-11-08 Thread Andrew ODonnell
Hi

I'm playing around and familiarising myself with Dekatrons. Have an 
arduino-interface PCB so running them off Arduino. OG-4 and A101 running 
nicely but i'm struggling with the Argon 3-guide tubes.

Here's a video of what it's doing - it looks like it's driving correctly 
but it's failing usually at the same pin everytime. But sometimes it's 
circling nicely.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tznRK8o7DN14wGbX7 

Is this a hardware fault ('sticky' pin on the dekatron) or is this a fault 
in my software to drive it?

I know some Dekatrons can be a bit tricky and sticky, if this is just a 
sticky pin, what's the best way to try and resolve it? If the answer is 
'run it for hours' - is it best to run it super fast or slow?

Many Thanks

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