[neonixie-l] Re: Question about LM4871 application for VFD fiament.

[Chaos Hydra]

Ok, H-bridge is a nice idea too. It just happens that I do got several 
LM4871 looted from school's lab and I was trying to testify that LM4871 == 
LM9022 statement. Still, Si9986 seems a little like a overkill for a 
filament, considering the price, lol.

On Wednesday, July 13, 2016 at 5:12:40 AM UTC-4, petehand wrote:
>
> The LM4871 wouldn't be my choice for a filament driver. I use the Si9986, 
> which is an H bridge, with my VFD projects.
>
> http://www.alliedelec.com/siliconix-vishay-si9986cy-e3/70026303/
>
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Anyone selling IEL-0-IV or the more rare IEL-0-VI?

[Chaos Hydra]

Yeah, found those! Siberian store have have the VI but it is out of stock. 
Considering the difficulty of turning them on, now I am looking for ways to 
build a proper driver.

On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 4:59:56 PM UTC-4, SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F. 
wrote:
>
> Do u mean these?
> http://tubes-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_100&products_id=660

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[neonixie-l] Anyone selling IEL-0-IV or the more rare IEL-0-VI?

[Chaos Hydra]

Hi Yall,
Just by looking, I fell in love with the so called "alien" EL display 
tubes. Absolutely beautiful tubes! Any one here selling IEL-0-IV or 
IEL-0-VI (especially)? I am willing to put some big money to collect a set 
of those. Yall have a good day!

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[neonixie-l] Just show you guys what I made

[Chaos Hydra]

Hey guys, if you remember I was asking questions about IV-17 tubes filament 
voltage problem. Though there is still some contrast problem, the project 
is finished. Just want to share this cool baby with you guys!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaUscYTW8Vs

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[neonixie-l] Re: IV-17 tube filament voltage difference (DC drive)

[Chaos Hydra]

yeah, that's what I need to do next, reduce the background illumination of 
those tubes. I will look into this. Thanks. 

On Saturday, November 14, 2015 at 4:33:27 AM UTC-5, Dekatron42 wrote:
>
> I am glad it works better now!
>
> Have a look at paragraph 6.2 in the Noritake link, there they use a zener 
> diode to bias the center tap, you can usually just use a string of ordinary 
> diodes to try out what bias voltage that you need for your design to have a 
> proper cut-off voltage.
>
> Then when you know that cut-off voltage you can either use one zener with 
> the nearest voltage or you can use two (or a string of diodes) and then you 
> can short part of this diode chain to have an effective dimming capability 
> - the Russians (probably others too) used this way of dimming the VFD 
> displays in clocks for night usage.
>
> So using a center-tapped transformer has its good sides.
>
> /Martin
>
> On Saturday, 14 November 2015 03:30:41 UTC+1, Chaos Hydra wrote:
>>
>> I made a clean cut on the trace and patched in a 10VAC transformer. That 
>> solved the overheating filament problem and now has a decent brightness 
>> overall. The only problem is: the certer tubes' "off segments" are quite 
>> bright. It is kind of difficult to read sometimes. 
>>
>> On Friday, November 13, 2015 at 2:52:28 AM UTC-5, gregebert wrote:
>>>
>>> It's worth trying 1 cut between the 12VDC supply and the filament chain, 
>>> and applying AC between GND and the cut-trace. It may not give you the best 
>>> results, but it could produce less variation in brightness.
>>>
>>>
>>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: IV-17 tube filament voltage difference (DC drive)

[Chaos Hydra]

The Grid and Anode runs on 24VDC. Datasheet nominal is 25VDC, works well 
though. I will try your suggestion but maybe later, thanks. 

On Saturday, November 14, 2015 at 1:10:37 AM UTC-5, gregebert wrote:
>
> Good progress!
>
> Actually, the change @nixiebunny recommended is probably simpler than you 
> imagined.
>
> If you are using a center-tapped transformer, with the center tap tied to 
> ground, just put a variable power supply between the center tap and your 
> GND, then vary a few volts. You may need to reverse polarity. I suspect you 
> will have to trade-off between max & min brightness, basically like the 
> contrast knob on a TV.
>
> If you are just using a non-center-tapped transformer, you can do the same 
> trick because one leg of the transformer has a path to GND.
>
> Whichever route you try, make sure you *dont* put the variable supply in 
> series with the filaments because that could burn them out, or needlessly 
> stress them. The exercise is to change the offset-voltage between the 
> filaments (I still want to refer to them as cathodes, because they are the 
> source of emitted electrons inside the tube) and the grid.
>
> Just curious: What voltage levels are you driving on the grids ?
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: IV-17 tube filament voltage difference (DC drive)

[Chaos Hydra]

MY Thanks Dekatron and Greg! The good thing about my PCB is the filament 
supply come in from one thick trace and I can easily make a clean cut 
there. I found an old 9VAC power supply which is essentially a transformer 
in jack. When driving low load, the voltage goes up to about 10.6VAC so it 
comes to about 2.1VAC to each tube so worked out nicely. I am planning to 
put one end to the ground then the other to the filament supply in-feed 
line. Sounds plausible?

On Thursday, November 12, 2015 at 6:51:35 PM UTC-5, Dekatron42 wrote:
>
> First of all I think you should read this guide from Noritake on VFDs : 
> https://www.noritake-elec.com/display/vfd_operation.html it explains why 
> an AC filament is best to use.
>
> Then I think that you should see if you can do as "gregebert" says in 
> lifting the heater chain from your current circuit and supply it with an AC 
> voltage from a center-tapped transformer winding with the correct 
> voltage/current and with the correct bias voltage. You'll have to put each 
> tube in parallel for this to work and use a transformer with enough current 
> capability to drive all heaters in parallel - even if there is "no way" you 
> can do this. The voltage is quite low so you can easily wind two extra 
> windings on a toroidal transformer to get the necessary center-tapped 
> winding, just don't forget to tape the extra windings in place so that it 
> won't hum or scratch the other windings. You can experiment quite easily 
> with a toroidal transformer to get the voltage/current you need. Since the 
> voltage is quite low you won't have to worry about the mains voltage 
> variation as that doesn't affect the low heater voltage that much, but you 
> should make sure that you use the correct voltage so you might have to try 
> different toroidal transformer until you get the correct volts/turn ratio.
>
> Apart from this there is a slight variation of the luminance between each 
> of these tubes so you might have to match them before using them like you 
> do with a lot of them side by side as it will show more when you can 
> compare them to each other, I've seen quite a big variation myself on 
> batches even though all of them have the quality stamp.
>
> Almost all of the old Russian schematics that I have looked at have tied 
> all of the heaters in parallel, there have only been very few designs which 
> have used four VFDs or less which have put them in series and they have 
> then said that they don't care about the luminance difference as they have 
> used a filter in front of the VFDs to even it out.
>
> /Martin
>
> On Wednesday, 11 November 2015 22:12:42 UTC+1, Chaos Hydra wrote:
>>
>> Hello guys, I made an IV -17 display panel. I made the filaments five in 
>> series and put them under 12VDC to get a 2.4VDC filament voltage.
>> The problem is, there is a voltage difference between each tube's 
>> filament as the one closer to ground goes up to 3.2VDC and the one close to 
>> 12V gets to 1.6 VDC.
>> As you can see in the video, the ones on the outside are much brighter 
>> (close to ground).  youtube video here. <https://youtu.be/qWq2tzyqygU>
>>
>> So is there anything I can do to fix the problem here? I made PCB 
>> already, so there is no way I can switch to AC now. Thanks for the help!
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] IV-17 tube filament voltage difference (DC drive)

[Chaos Hydra]

Hello guys, I made an IV -17 display panel. I made the filaments five in 
series and put them under 12VDC to get a 2.4VDC filament voltage.
The problem is, there is a voltage difference between each tube's filament 
as the one closer to ground goes up to 3.2VDC and the one close to 12V gets 
to 1.6 VDC.
As you can see in the video, the ones on the outside are much brighter 
(close to ground).  youtube video here. 

So is there anything I can do to fix the problem here? I made PCB already, 
so there is no way I can switch to AC now. Thanks for the help!

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[neonixie-l] Re: FS: IV-4, IV-12, IV-17, IV-26

[Chaos Hydra]

If you have a ebay link, please send it to me. I want iv-4 and iv-17.


On Thursday, September 10, 2015 at 12:39:43 AM UTC-4, Yuriy Ovchinnikov 
wrote:
>
> FS: 
> IV-4 - 11 pcs., 
> IV-12 - 73 pcs., 
> IV-17 - 13 pcs., 
> IV-26 - more 800 pcs.
> Anyone want?
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Questions regarding IV-17 or IV-14 vfd tubes.

[Chaos Hydra]

If that unavoidable, then I will settle with DC filament bias. however, I 
may also have IVLM-1/7 in the system too, do they need AC filament bias?

On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 5:28:22 AM UTC-4, petehand wrote:
>
> With single character tubes like the IV17 you don't need to drive them 
> with AC. The filament runs up and back parallel so there's negligible 
> gradient in the electric field and no discernible brightness gradient in 
> the tube, and AC drive is just time and effort wasted for nothing. You 
> will, however, find that individual tubes vary in brightness by a huge 
> amount, even from the same batch.
>
>
> On Thursday, July 23, 2015 at 7:38:26 AM UTC-7, Chaos Hydra wrote:
>>
>> Well, as a newb, I do not how to do AC filament drive so I settled for 
>> DC. Since I will use tube play later on, Would you mind show me some good 
>> resourse explain how to do it? Ｉ appreciate any help!
>>
>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Questions regarding IV-17 or IV-14 vfd tubes.

[Chaos Hydra]

I do have LM9022, they are still manufactured in authorized or unauthorized 
factories in China. But anyway, I am planning on use MAX 6921/6931, but I 
don't think they have filament drive on them.

On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 6:01:52 AM UTC-4, Terry Kennedy wrote:
>
> On Thursday, July 23, 2015 at 10:38:26 AM UTC-4, Chaos Hydra wrote:
>>
>> Well, as a newb, I do not how to do AC filament drive so I settled for 
>> DC. Since I will use tube play later on, Would you mind show me some good 
>> resourse explain how to do it? Ｉ appreciate any help!
>>
>
> There used to be nice single-chip solutions for this, like the TI LM9022 
> (now obsolete, and the wrong output voltage for the IV-4 or -17). As Pete 
> mentioned, you don't need to do this for small tubes like these. But if you 
> wanted to experiment with other tubes it becomes more important. The linked 
> Noritake document in a previous reply has a good overview of the reasons 
> they always recommend AC drive.
>
> There is enough variation in the IV series displays that the normal 
> methods of dealing with a higher-than-desired filament voltage - multiple 
> tubes in series, tubes in parallel with single dropping resistor - may not 
> result in acceptably uniform brightness in a "commercial" product. Even the 
> hobbyist "IV-17 Smartsocket" board used per-tube filament resistors so the 
> relative brightness could be adjusted.
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Questions regarding IV-17 or IV-14 vfd tubes.

[Chaos Hydra]

Well, as a newb, I do not how to do AC filament drive so I settled for DC. 
Since I will use tube play later on, Would you mind show me some good 
resourse explain how to do it? Ｉ appreciate any help!

On Thursday, July 23, 2015 at 3:04:04 AM UTC-4, Terry Kennedy wrote:
>
> On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 2:12:43 PM UTC-4, Chaos Hydra wrote:
>>
>> I see what you mean now. Still, I managed to find a regulator chip that 
>> can do the trick, because it take 5V input.
>> http://www.linear.com/product/LT1587-1.5
>> Thanks a lot!
>>
>
> If possible, you want to use AC filament drive. DC will generate a 
> brightness gradient depending on the voltage at that end of the 
> filament compared to the other voltages. This is particularly noticeable 
> on large displays like the ILC1-1/7.
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Questions regarding IV-17 or IV-14 vfd tubes.

[Chaos Hydra]

I see what you mean now. Still, I managed to find a regulator chip that can 
do the trick, because it take 5V input.
http://www.linear.com/product/LT1587-1.5
Thanks a lot! 




On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 5:59:53 AM UTC-4, petehand wrote:
>
> Not quite. The pin 11s go to a (20 divided by 8) ohm resistor, like 2 
> point 7 ohms. Yellow Violet Gold.
>
> On Tuesday, July 21, 2015 at 6:05:22 AM UTC-7, Chaos Hydra wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for your reply! Yeah I mean pin 12 to 25 VDC, mis-type.
>>
>> So for the first part. I will have 8 tubes. So I put 47 ohm in series 
>> with pin 1 to 5 v and all 8 pin 11s together and through a 20 ohm. Well, 
>> everything gets better when my dmm gets here.
>> The method of testing you said is great! I will keep it in mind. 
>>
>>

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[neonixie-l] Questions regarding IV-17 or IV-14 vfd tubes.

[Chaos Hydra]

As the topic says, what do you guys do for the 1.5v for the anode voltage. 
an AA battery? I was thinking to use two bias resistor and get it from my 
5VDC logic circuit input. Are there any better options to do this?

Also, just double check my Russian, Pin 1 goes to 1.5V and pin 11 goes to 
ground, right? pin2(for IV-17) goes to 25V and the rest pins are 25V 
soucing inputs.

Thanks in advance!

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[neonixie-l] Re: Tubes suppliers quality

[Chaos Hydra]

The thing is, I only want to buy about 10 to 20 of the tubes, so I am not 
going for the wholesale price. Anyway, I live in Indiana, so if you want to 
sell me with resonable price, I will difinately go for an seller just in 
case I need something urgent. Do you have a ebay store?

On Saturday, June 20, 2015 at 4:40:33 AM UTC-4, Terry Kennedy wrote:
>
> On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 2:59:40 PM UTC-4, Chaos Hydra wrote:
>>
>> The all powerful group, I invoke thee! Well guys, I have only been 
>> shopping tubes from ebay before, but for my new project I am thinking just 
>> shop from one place and be done with it while saving the shipping. So since 
>> yall are more experienced, how good are the other tube sites out there? 
>> Currently, I kind of considering http://tubes-store.com and buy dozens 
>> of IV-17. My major concern is the quality of the tubes and the safety of 
>> payment. I don't care about shipping time for now but it is still better to 
>> know how long is it going to take them ship the stuff to the US. Please 
>> share your comment of different tube dealers and that will be great! Thanks!
>>
>
> I don't believe I have dealt with that seller. The $5.00 price per tube 
> seems a bit high, as the eBay sellers of small batches (between 4 and 12 
> tubes) seem to be asking about half that price. The only technical issue 
> with buying batches from multiple sellers is you will likely end up with 
> very different date codes which have slightly different internal 
> construction. If aesthetics are critical, it is good to purchase a larger 
> lot from a single seller. These: http://www.ebay.com/itm/331072689210 are 
> from a seller I have dealt with in the past (for a different model of tube) 
> and at $2.90 each are still a lot less expensive than the link you posted.
>
> If you are in the continental US and are looking for large quantities, 
> drop me a note at the address I posted this reply from - I'm pretty sure I 
> have 700+ pieces of IV-17 and I'm in the NYC area.
>
> The IV-17 is a good, solid tube with a good lifetime. The only annoying 
> thing about them is they are often shipped with the wires twisted together, 
> and getting all the wires sorted out and into the correct holes on the PCB 
> can be a pain, as can aligning the tubes for height, angle, and so on. But 
> it is rewarding if you get them right, as you can make large displays 
> without going broke buying B-7971's: 
> http://www.tmk.com/transient/6F5S8672-s.jpg
>
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Tubes suppliers quality

[Chaos Hydra]

Thanks for your comment. Since I am going to buy about 10 or 20, I will 
pass on the Ukrainian dealer.

On Saturday, June 20, 2015 at 8:11:09 AM UTC-4, Ian Sparkes wrote:
>
> I have dealt with tubes-store in the past. In my experience they are 
> totally legit, with reasonable shipping times (to Switzerland, at least). I 
> don't use them right now more because I can get a better price elsewhere at 
> the moment, mostly because of my geographical location.
>
> I have a contact in the Ukraine who I don't want to post out here in the 
> open (I haven't cleared it with the guy), but if you are really serious 
> about getting a large quantity (500+), then contact me privately and I'll 
> try to put you two together.
>
>
> On Friday, 19 June 2015 20:59:40 UTC+2, Chaos Hydra wrote:
>>
>> The all powerful group, I invoke thee! Well guys, I have only been 
>> shopping tubes from ebay before, but for my new project I am thinking just 
>> shop from one place and be done with it while saving the shipping. So since 
>> yall are more experienced, how good are the other tube sites out there? 
>> Currently, I kind of considering http://tubes-store.com and buy dozens 
>> of IV-17. My major concern is the quality of the tubes and the safety of 
>> payment. I don't care about shipping time for now but it is still better to 
>> know how long is it going to take them ship the stuff to the US. Please 
>> share your comment of different tube dealers and that will be great! Thanks!
>>
>

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[neonixie-l] Tubes suppliers quality

[Chaos Hydra]

The all powerful group, I invoke thee! Well guys, I have only been shopping 
tubes from ebay before, but for my new project I am thinking just shop from 
one place and be done with it while saving the shipping. So since yall are 
more experienced, how good are the other tube sites out there? Currently, I 
kind of considering http://tubes-store.com and buy dozens of IV-17. My 
major concern is the quality of the tubes and the safety of payment. I 
don't care about shipping time for now but it is still better to know how 
long is it going to take them ship the stuff to the US. Please share your 
comment of different tube dealers and that will be great! Thanks!

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[neonixie-l] Re: 1N12 question..

[Chaos Hydra]

IN-12a and IN-12b both have upside down 2 and 5s, the only difference is 
the digit dots on them. They are Russians, aimed for efficiency, so no. 

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Re: [neonixie-l] Can I drive the INS-1 neon bulb with the SN74141 or KM155ID1 chip?

[Chaos Hydra]

That totally worked! but I did the wiring when the 170v is on, and got 
zapped, threw  my only 220k ohm to nowhere. DAW

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Re: [neonixie-l] Can I drive the INS-1 neon bulb with the SN74141 or KM155ID1 chip?

[Chaos Hydra]

OK, I tried the method mentioned by Threeneurons. It does not seems be 
working. I tried to put a 1n4001 diode in series to limit the current, 
seems not working either. Have anybody have done this procedure before?

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Re: [neonixie-l] Can I drive the INS-1 neon bulb with the SN74141 or KM155ID1 chip?

[Chaos Hydra]

Thanks! trying it right now! 

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Re: [neonixie-l] Can I drive the INS-1 neon bulb with the SN74141 or KM155ID1 chip?

[Chaos Hydra]

Thanks John! That is very helpful! 
 So to avoid unwanted lit, what should I do? Can I just put a diode there 
to prevent the chip sourcing the bulb? 


On Saturday, April 18, 2015 at 10:13:40 AM UTC-4, jrehwin wrote:
>
>
> On Apr 18, 2015, at 4:06 AM, Chaos Hydra > 
> wrote: 
>
> > Hello! First time post here. So I am doing a nixie clock with IN-12 and 
> KM155ID1 mux chip. 
>
> The KM155ID1 is a nixie driver, not really a "mux chip", although it can 
> certainly be used in multiplex designs. 
>
> > To ensure the look, I decided to use INS-1 neon bulb to do the little 
> colons between the digits. My questions is: can I drive the INS-1 bulb as I 
> did to IN-12? With an 220k current limiting resistor under 170VDC, the INS 
> bulb got 5mA. Considering IN-12 has 6mA without current limiting resistor, 
> I think I can just use K155ID1 to sink in the current and control the neon 
> bulbs. 
>
> Yes, the chip won't mind at all.  However, due to the clamp diodes, the 
> "off" voltage is about 100V (60V for the US equivalent).  With an ordinary 
> nixie this is fine as long as another cathode is lit.  However, 
> for individual bulbs and nixies without any cathodes lit, that's enough 
> voltage across the tube to possibly cause some unwanted glow. 
>
> > Consider I give most of my knowledge of digital parts' parameter back to 
> professors, can any one please point out on the data sheet: when I am 
> sinking current into the active low pin(to turn on an bulb or a single 
> filament in nixie), which value is the maximum current? 
>
> That does not appear to be given on the data sheet, however, it does say 
> that when sinking 7mA, the voltage on an output pin will not exceed 2.5V, 
> so 7mA is allowed by implication. 
>
> - John 
>
>
On Saturday, April 18, 2015 at 10:13:40 AM UTC-4, jrehwin wrote:
>
>
> On Apr 18, 2015, at 4:06 AM, Chaos Hydra > 
> wrote: 
>
> > Hello! First time post here. So I am doing a nixie clock with IN-12 and 
> KM155ID1 mux chip. 
>
> The KM155ID1 is a nixie driver, not really a "mux chip", although it can 
> certainly be used in multiplex designs. 
>
> > To ensure the look, I decided to use INS-1 neon bulb to do the little 
> colons between the digits. My questions is: can I drive the INS-1 bulb as I 
> did to IN-12? With an 220k current limiting resistor under 170VDC, the INS 
> bulb got 5mA. Considering IN-12 has 6mA without current limiting resistor, 
> I think I can just use K155ID1 to sink in the current and control the neon 
> bulbs. 
>
> Yes, the chip won't mind at all.  However, due to the clamp diodes, the 
> "off" voltage is about 100V (60V for the US equivalent).  With an ordinary 
> nixie this is fine as long as another cathode is lit.  However, 
> for individual bulbs and nixies without any cathodes lit, that's enough 
> voltage across the tube to possibly cause some unwanted glow. 
>
> > Consider I give most of my knowledge of digital parts' parameter back to 
> professors, can any one please point out on the data sheet: when I am 
> sinking current into the active low pin(to turn on an bulb or a single 
> filament in nixie), which value is the maximum current? 
>
> That does not appear to be given on the data sheet, however, it does say 
> that when sinking 7mA, the voltage on an output pin will not exceed 2.5V, 
> so 7mA is allowed by implication. 
>
> - John 
>
>
On Saturday, April 18, 2015 at 10:13:40 AM UTC-4, jrehwin wrote:
>
>
> On Apr 18, 2015, at 4:06 AM, Chaos Hydra > 
> wrote: 
>
> > Hello! First time post here. So I am doing a nixie clock with IN-12 and 
> KM155ID1 mux chip. 
>
> The KM155ID1 is a nixie driver, not really a "mux chip", although it can 
> certainly be used in multiplex designs. 
>
> > To ensure the look, I decided to use INS-1 neon bulb to do the little 
> colons between the digits. My questions is: can I drive the INS-1 bulb as I 
> did to IN-12? With an 220k current limiting resistor under 170VDC, the INS 
> bulb got 5mA. Considering IN-12 has 6mA without current limiting resistor, 
> I think I can just use K155ID1 to sink in the current and control the neon 
> bulbs. 
>
> Yes, the chip won't mind at all.  However, due to the clamp diodes, the 
> "off" voltage is about 100V (60V for the US equivalent).  With an ordinary 
> nixie this is fine as long as another cathode is lit.  However, 
> for individual bulbs and nixies without any cathodes lit, that's enough 
> voltage across the tube to possibly cause some unwanted glow. 
>
> > Consider I give most of my knowledge of digital parts' parameter back to 
> professors, c

Re: [neonixie-l] Can I drive the INS-1 neon bulb with the SN74141 or KM155ID1 chip?

[Chaos Hydra]

Thanks John! That is very helpful! 
 So to avoid unwanted lit, what should I do? Can I just put a diode there 
to prevent the chip sourcing the bulb? 


On Saturday, April 18, 2015 at 10:13:40 AM UTC-4, jrehwin wrote:
>
>
> On Apr 18, 2015, at 4:06 AM, Chaos Hydra > 
> wrote: 
>
> > Hello! First time post here. So I am doing a nixie clock with IN-12 and 
> KM155ID1 mux chip. 
>
> The KM155ID1 is a nixie driver, not really a "mux chip", although it can 
> certainly be used in multiplex designs. 
>
> > To ensure the look, I decided to use INS-1 neon bulb to do the little 
> colons between the digits. My questions is: can I drive the INS-1 bulb as I 
> did to IN-12? With an 220k current limiting resistor under 170VDC, the INS 
> bulb got 5mA. Considering IN-12 has 6mA without current limiting resistor, 
> I think I can just use K155ID1 to sink in the current and control the neon 
> bulbs. 
>
> Yes, the chip won't mind at all.  However, due to the clamp diodes, the 
> "off" voltage is about 100V (60V for the US equivalent).  With an ordinary 
> nixie this is fine as long as another cathode is lit.  However, 
> for individual bulbs and nixies without any cathodes lit, that's enough 
> voltage across the tube to possibly cause some unwanted glow. 
>
> > Consider I give most of my knowledge of digital parts' parameter back to 
> professors, can any one please point out on the data sheet: when I am 
> sinking current into the active low pin(to turn on an bulb or a single 
> filament in nixie), which value is the maximum current? 
>
> That does not appear to be given on the data sheet, however, it does say 
> that when sinking 7mA, the voltage on an output pin will not exceed 2.5V, 
> so 7mA is allowed by implication. 
>
> - John 
>
>

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