[neonixie-l] Re: Socket alternatives for B9012
First off, B9012 is two concentric 'circles' of pins, though one of those circles is only 3 pins so it's not really a full circle... But anyway, no, sockets for these are unobtainium because of this two row thing. I saw that page, and even before I saw it, I was wondering the same thing. D-sub pins are .040 and the B9012 datasheet says the pins are .043 diameter. A little off, so if it does work, it'll be a tight fit (depending on the style of the pin). On Tuesday, November 4, 2014 11:30:12 AM UTC-6, threeneurons wrote: They're not the same base as the B5092 ??? If not, then here's what I do: http://threeneurons.wordpress.com/miscellaneous-projects/improvised-tube-sockets/ I have one B9012, that I got years ago. I also have sockets for the B5092, which are also good for other nixie tubes, and dekatrons like the Z504S. I'll see if they mate. Or, someone else can confirm, either way, if they are a match, or not. If they are a match, those sockets are currently available, from China, thru eBay. I'll not post that link until I can confirm that they *DO* match. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/e67e4ba1-10b8-4fa9-bf0e-7f534e373da5%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Socket alternatives for B9012
if you find anything relevant, let me know. Right now, I'm planning on using just pins (maybe mounted on a board, maybe flying lead style, don't know yet) so any improvement you find over that would be appreciated. On Monday, November 3, 2014 8:30:35 PM UTC-6, Jonathan wrote: Hi All, I just got some B9012's from Walter. He says he has never even seen a socket for these, so I tjink the odds of finding any are pretty low. :-( So, over the years I have seen some discussions about various alternatives. I tried to search through the archives but couldn't find anything that I was sure would work with these particular tubes. So, any recommends? Thanks! Can't wait to play with these little buggers. Jonathan -- http://www.avast.com/ This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus http://www.avast.com/ protection is active. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/927310d4-a894-4c14-b68b-b18908e4b4e9%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Socket alternatives for B9012
I'll let you know when I know. On Monday, November 3, 2014 8:55:50 PM UTC-6, Jonathan wrote: What pins exactly are you using? I think that is what it is going to come to. JOnathan if you find anything relevant, let me know. Right now, I'm planning on using just pins (maybe mounted on a board, maybe flying lead style, don't know yet) so any improvement you find over that would be appreciated. On Monday, November 3, 2014 8:30:35 PM UTC-6, Jonathan wrote: Hi All, I just got some B9012's from Walter. He says he has never even seen a socket for these, so I tjink the odds of finding any are pretty low. :-( So, over the years I have seen some discussions about various alternatives. I tried to search through the archives but couldn't find anything that I was sure would work with these particular tubes. So, any recommends? Thanks! Can't wait to play with these little buggers. Jonathan -- http://www.avast.com/ This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus http://www.avast.com/ protection is active. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/927310d4-a894-4c14-b68b-b18908e4b4e9%40googlegroups.com https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/927310d4-a894-4c14-b68b-b18908e4b4e9%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=emailutm_source=footer . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- http://www.avast.com/ This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus http://www.avast.com/ protection is active. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/95223c18-0d99-49d4-996a-13a2c369cee4%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: neon otis elevator 'touch tubes'
I keep on accidentally saying these tubes are 72V, everytime I say that, change it to 71V... On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 12:42:05 PM UTC-5, Joe Zatarski wrote: I tried it out. It's running off of 200VDC from inside a TV with some extra resistance in between. Using 200V - 72V (the rating of my tubes) I get 128V, and I have the original 3600ohms plus another 3500 in series, giving 7100 ohms. All that results in about 18mA of current through the tube. I even get a bit of touch sensitivity when the TV is just starting up, due to AC bleeding through past the regulators I guess. Otherwise, I can tie the trigger input to the 200V (which has that 1.5Mohm resistor in series) and start it that way. On Tuesday, October 28, 2014 2:45:57 PM UTC-5, Joe Zatarski wrote: Attached is the schematic in PDF form. All lines except one seem to be common between all the tubes. Based on my guess of 135VDC tube supply, I think I was right. Tube drops about 72V when on, leaving 63V to be dropped by the total series resistance, 3600 ohms. 63V/3600ohm = 17.5mA. This is below the maximum rating of 25mA according to the 1C21 datasheet. It then looks like an AC supply to the grid would be required to cause the capacitive coupling that allows the tube to work as a touch trigger. I'm not too sure how to figure out this voltage. On Friday, October 24, 2014 10:18:34 AM UTC-5, Joe Zatarski wrote: I will draw up a schematic of what I have in the panel now. I think it'll probably be similar to what the otis docs show: resistor connected in series with the tube, trigger and cathode tied together, and connections for B+ and 'B.O.' (B.O. being the reference line for B+, which also happens to NOT be at the same potential as ground, due to the AC supply tied to it). There seems to be a cap, probably in parallel with something, but I'll take a look. On Wednesday, October 22, 2014 4:51:21 PM UTC-5, Dekatron42 wrote: I think that the best thing you can do is to ask the company who replaced it if they can help you with any schematics, otherwise you will have to draw one yourself from what you have left of the elevator panel and we can take it from there, then you will know what voltages you need and you can do some experiments more easily. /Martin On Tuesday, 21 October 2014 21:00:47 UTC+2, Joe Zatarski wrote: I guess now what I would like to know are some example circuits for power supplies maybe? I guess I need 135VDC, and it needs to be isolated from the mains because it'll also have 150VAC on it relative to earth ground. Easiest to do is get a transformer (if I can find the right voltage output) but how about regulation? Is a properly sized zener diode good enough? On Monday, October 20, 2014 10:41:47 AM UTC-5, Joe Zatarski wrote: So I found an elevator control panel in the garbage. They were replacing a broken one in the dorm next to mine. It appears to have 425A5 'touch tube' trigger tubes instead of mechanical switches. I saw an old thread here about them which had a bit of info. I think you need to connect a 150vac supply between ground and the cathode, then 135vdc across the anode and cathode to use them as a touch button. There needs to be some resistance in series with the tube of course, and the 135vdc needs to be isolated from the ac. Also, I think the trigger input needs to be tied to the cathode somehow. I still have all the wiring in the panel as it was when I found it. There are 12 floors and a basement, so I'm thinking the buttons can represent the hour of a clock as well as an am/pm light. Furthermore, for setting the time, the tubes can still be used as buttons to type in the time. I'd appreciate if I can get some tips on driving circuitry and supplies since these are cold cathode neon tubes, something I have never dealt with before. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/69d9ef51-8364-4588-9628-00c1491c16a3%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Just got 80 new Burroughs PIXIE B-9012 tubes, if any interest
I may be interested in a couple, but I'll have to do a little research before I decide to go with these over nixies. I am building a clock out of an elevator panel and I am thinking I should keep it all neon :) I'd need two for minutes display at least. On Monday, October 20, 2014 4:06:34 PM UTC-5, Walter2 wrote: These are the same glass diameter as the common B-5092/8421 nixies (not as tall), but instead have a circle of 10 digits on the face, 0-9 clockwise, with zero at the top. Unlike Nixies, more than one digit can be on at the same time (if cathode resistors are used, rather than a common anode resistor). They need only +150VDC, and very little current. The digit is small, but the appearance is very interesting, like a Dekatron, but with digits rather than dots. I don't ever recall seeing them used in any commercial gear, but presumably they did appear someplace, maybe another list member has that info. They can be used as status displays to show up to 10 data items at the same time. They can almost be used as a single tube for hours as well, because two digits can be on at one time (1+0 to show 10, but NOT 1+1 to show 11, 1+2 to show 12, for example), a novel and more clock-face-like appearance, but not really ideal. The base is a non-standard 13 pin (3 center pins, outer circle of 10), so I have no hope for sockets, but clearly loose pins will work fine to a PCB. Because the numbers appear to race around the outer diameter of the tube when cycled, they would provide very attractive seconds/minutes displays in clocks. Driving is dead simple, ground the cathode to light, just as with regular Nixies, but less current is required (larger resistor). Because more than one can be on at a time, fading is possible to enhance motion. There are also simliar tubes from Philips in europe, but their drive is quite complex, and they are not interchangeable with these. Anyway, I will have them posted up to Sphere Research shortly, or you can just email me for more details. I have the factory data sheet as well, and I will email the PDF to anybody interested. They will be quite cheap, but there's only this one single batch available, no more stock after this, and frankly I was surprised to get these. The appearance of this batch is excellent. all the best, walter ( walter2 -at- sphere.bc.ca ) sphere research corp. ( www.sphere.bc.ca ) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/9574b130-cd6b-46af-b311-4ab611669662%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: neon otis elevator 'touch tubes'
Attached is the schematic in PDF form. All lines except one seem to be common between all the tubes. Based on my guess of 135VDC tube supply, I think I was right. Tube drops about 72V when on, leaving 63V to be dropped by the total series resistance, 3600 ohms. 63V/3600ohm = 17.5mA. This is below the maximum rating of 25mA according to the 1C21 datasheet. It then looks like an AC supply to the grid would be required to cause the capacitive coupling that allows the tube to work as a touch trigger. I'm not too sure how to figure out this voltage. On Friday, October 24, 2014 10:18:34 AM UTC-5, Joe Zatarski wrote: I will draw up a schematic of what I have in the panel now. I think it'll probably be similar to what the otis docs show: resistor connected in series with the tube, trigger and cathode tied together, and connections for B+ and 'B.O.' (B.O. being the reference line for B+, which also happens to NOT be at the same potential as ground, due to the AC supply tied to it). There seems to be a cap, probably in parallel with something, but I'll take a look. On Wednesday, October 22, 2014 4:51:21 PM UTC-5, Dekatron42 wrote: I think that the best thing you can do is to ask the company who replaced it if they can help you with any schematics, otherwise you will have to draw one yourself from what you have left of the elevator panel and we can take it from there, then you will know what voltages you need and you can do some experiments more easily. /Martin On Tuesday, 21 October 2014 21:00:47 UTC+2, Joe Zatarski wrote: I guess now what I would like to know are some example circuits for power supplies maybe? I guess I need 135VDC, and it needs to be isolated from the mains because it'll also have 150VAC on it relative to earth ground. Easiest to do is get a transformer (if I can find the right voltage output) but how about regulation? Is a properly sized zener diode good enough? On Monday, October 20, 2014 10:41:47 AM UTC-5, Joe Zatarski wrote: So I found an elevator control panel in the garbage. They were replacing a broken one in the dorm next to mine. It appears to have 425A5 'touch tube' trigger tubes instead of mechanical switches. I saw an old thread here about them which had a bit of info. I think you need to connect a 150vac supply between ground and the cathode, then 135vdc across the anode and cathode to use them as a touch button. There needs to be some resistance in series with the tube of course, and the 135vdc needs to be isolated from the ac. Also, I think the trigger input needs to be tied to the cathode somehow. I still have all the wiring in the panel as it was when I found it. There are 12 floors and a basement, so I'm thinking the buttons can represent the hour of a clock as well as an am/pm light. Furthermore, for setting the time, the tubes can still be used as buttons to type in the time. I'd appreciate if I can get some tips on driving circuitry and supplies since these are cold cathode neon tubes, something I have never dealt with before. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/22bc4aa3-28c6-4688-806b-a37a52617d50%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. Otis Elevator Schematic.pdf Description: Adobe PDF document
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: neon otis elevator 'touch tubes'
I was not aware of any coating on the tube, and I don't think there's any connection to the outside of the tube, though I could be wrong. The Otis docs state that the tubes work on capacitive coupling, through the tubes envelope. I do not believe any coating on the tube acts as an electrode. On Tuesday, October 28, 2014 4:18:56 PM UTC-5, Tidak Ada wrote: Is it clear to you all that this tube has a transparent Sn-coating as the sensitive electrode? Rough handling of the tube surface can destroy it due to disconnection of that coating. eric -- *From:* neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript: [mailto: neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript:] *On Behalf Of *Joe Zatarski *Sent:* dinsdag 28 oktober 2014 20:46 *To:* neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript: *Subject:* [neonixie-l] Re: neon otis elevator 'touch tubes' Attached is the schematic in PDF form. All lines except one seem to be common between all the tubes. Based on my guess of 135VDC tube supply, I think I was right. Tube drops about 72V when on, leaving 63V to be dropped by the total series resistance, 3600 ohms. 63V/3600ohm = 17.5mA. This is below the maximum rating of 25mA according to the 1C21 datasheet. It then looks like an AC supply to the grid would be required to cause the capacitive coupling that allows the tube to work as a touch trigger. I'm not too sure how to figure out this voltage. On Friday, October 24, 2014 10:18:34 AM UTC-5, Joe Zatarski wrote: I will draw up a schematic of what I have in the panel now. I think it'll probably be similar to what the otis docs show: resistor connected in series with the tube, trigger and cathode tied together, and connections for B+ and 'B.O.' (B.O. being the reference line for B+, which also happens to NOT be at the same potential as ground, due to the AC supply tied to it). There seems to be a cap, probably in parallel with something, but I'll take a look. On Wednesday, October 22, 2014 4:51:21 PM UTC-5, Dekatron42 wrote: I think that the best thing you can do is to ask the company who replaced it if they can help you with any schematics, otherwise you will have to draw one yourself from what you have left of the elevator panel and we can take it from there, then you will know what voltages you need and you can do some experiments more easily. /Martin On Tuesday, 21 October 2014 21:00:47 UTC+2, Joe Zatarski wrote: I guess now what I would like to know are some example circuits for power supplies maybe? I guess I need 135VDC, and it needs to be isolated from the mains because it'll also have 150VAC on it relative to earth ground. Easiest to do is get a transformer (if I can find the right voltage output) but how about regulation? Is a properly sized zener diode good enough? On Monday, October 20, 2014 10:41:47 AM UTC-5, Joe Zatarski wrote: So I found an elevator control panel in the garbage. They were replacing a broken one in the dorm next to mine. It appears to have 425A5 'touch tube' trigger tubes instead of mechanical switches. I saw an old thread here about them which had a bit of info. I think you need to connect a 150vac supply between ground and the cathode, then 135vdc across the anode and cathode to use them as a touch button. There needs to be some resistance in series with the tube of course, and the 135vdc needs to be isolated from the ac. Also, I think the trigger input needs to be tied to the cathode somehow. I still have all the wiring in the panel as it was when I found it. There are 12 floors and a basement, so I'm thinking the buttons can represent the hour of a clock as well as an am/pm light. Furthermore, for setting the time, the tubes can still be used as buttons to type in the time. I'd appreciate if I can get some tips on driving circuitry and supplies since these are cold cathode neon tubes, something I have never dealt with before. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/22bc4aa3-28c6-4688-806b-a37a52617d50%40googlegroups.com https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/22bc4aa3-28c6-4688-806b-a37a52617d50%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=emailutm_source=footer . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: neon otis elevator 'touch tubes'
You are right. I think it just acts as a plate in a capacitor, working to increase the surface area for maximum capacitive coupling through the tube envelope. On Tuesday, October 28, 2014 4:58:49 PM UTC-5, Tidak Ada wrote: I am sure! Try it with an Ohm meter. The top is coated and acts as a electrode. It stands anywhere in the datasheets. I have that tube for years in my collection. eric -- *From:* neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript: [mailto: neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript:] *On Behalf Of *Joe Zatarski *Sent:* dinsdag 28 oktober 2014 22:48 *To:* neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript: *Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] Re: neon otis elevator 'touch tubes' I was not aware of any coating on the tube, and I don't think there's any connection to the outside of the tube, though I could be wrong. The Otis docs state that the tubes work on capacitive coupling, through the tubes envelope. I do not believe any coating on the tube acts as an electrode. On Tuesday, October 28, 2014 4:18:56 PM UTC-5, Tidak Ada wrote: Is it clear to you all that this tube has a transparent Sn-coating as the sensitive electrode? Rough handling of the tube surface can destroy it due to disconnection of that coating. eric -- *From:* neoni...@googlegroups.com [mailto:neoni...@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Joe Zatarski *Sent:* dinsdag 28 oktober 2014 20:46 *To:* neoni...@googlegroups.com *Subject:* [neonixie-l] Re: neon otis elevator 'touch tubes' Attached is the schematic in PDF form. All lines except one seem to be common between all the tubes. Based on my guess of 135VDC tube supply, I think I was right. Tube drops about 72V when on, leaving 63V to be dropped by the total series resistance, 3600 ohms. 63V/3600ohm = 17.5mA. This is below the maximum rating of 25mA according to the 1C21 datasheet. It then looks like an AC supply to the grid would be required to cause the capacitive coupling that allows the tube to work as a touch trigger. I'm not too sure how to figure out this voltage. On Friday, October 24, 2014 10:18:34 AM UTC-5, Joe Zatarski wrote: I will draw up a schematic of what I have in the panel now. I think it'll probably be similar to what the otis docs show: resistor connected in series with the tube, trigger and cathode tied together, and connections for B+ and 'B.O.' (B.O. being the reference line for B+, which also happens to NOT be at the same potential as ground, due to the AC supply tied to it). There seems to be a cap, probably in parallel with something, but I'll take a look. On Wednesday, October 22, 2014 4:51:21 PM UTC-5, Dekatron42 wrote: I think that the best thing you can do is to ask the company who replaced it if they can help you with any schematics, otherwise you will have to draw one yourself from what you have left of the elevator panel and we can take it from there, then you will know what voltages you need and you can do some experiments more easily. /Martin On Tuesday, 21 October 2014 21:00:47 UTC+2, Joe Zatarski wrote: I guess now what I would like to know are some example circuits for power supplies maybe? I guess I need 135VDC, and it needs to be isolated from the mains because it'll also have 150VAC on it relative to earth ground. Easiest to do is get a transformer (if I can find the right voltage output) but how about regulation? Is a properly sized zener diode good enough? On Monday, October 20, 2014 10:41:47 AM UTC-5, Joe Zatarski wrote: So I found an elevator control panel in the garbage. They were replacing a broken one in the dorm next to mine. It appears to have 425A5 'touch tube' trigger tubes instead of mechanical switches. I saw an old thread here about them which had a bit of info. I think you need to connect a 150vac supply between ground and the cathode, then 135vdc across the anode and cathode to use them as a touch button. There needs to be some resistance in series with the tube of course, and the 135vdc needs to be isolated from the ac. Also, I think the trigger input needs to be tied to the cathode somehow. I still have all the wiring in the panel as it was when I found it. There are 12 floors and a basement, so I'm thinking the buttons can represent the hour of a clock as well as an am/pm light. Furthermore, for setting the time, the tubes can still be used as buttons to type in the time. I'd appreciate if I can get some tips on driving circuitry and supplies since these are cold cathode neon tubes, something I have never dealt with before. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neoni...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion
[neonixie-l] Re: neon otis elevator 'touch tubes'
I will draw up a schematic of what I have in the panel now. I think it'll probably be similar to what the otis docs show: resistor connected in series with the tube, trigger and cathode tied together, and connections for B+ and 'B.O.' (B.O. being the reference line for B+, which also happens to NOT be at the same potential as ground, due to the AC supply tied to it). There seems to be a cap, probably in parallel with something, but I'll take a look. On Wednesday, October 22, 2014 4:51:21 PM UTC-5, Dekatron42 wrote: I think that the best thing you can do is to ask the company who replaced it if they can help you with any schematics, otherwise you will have to draw one yourself from what you have left of the elevator panel and we can take it from there, then you will know what voltages you need and you can do some experiments more easily. /Martin On Tuesday, 21 October 2014 21:00:47 UTC+2, Joe Zatarski wrote: I guess now what I would like to know are some example circuits for power supplies maybe? I guess I need 135VDC, and it needs to be isolated from the mains because it'll also have 150VAC on it relative to earth ground. Easiest to do is get a transformer (if I can find the right voltage output) but how about regulation? Is a properly sized zener diode good enough? On Monday, October 20, 2014 10:41:47 AM UTC-5, Joe Zatarski wrote: So I found an elevator control panel in the garbage. They were replacing a broken one in the dorm next to mine. It appears to have 425A5 'touch tube' trigger tubes instead of mechanical switches. I saw an old thread here about them which had a bit of info. I think you need to connect a 150vac supply between ground and the cathode, then 135vdc across the anode and cathode to use them as a touch button. There needs to be some resistance in series with the tube of course, and the 135vdc needs to be isolated from the ac. Also, I think the trigger input needs to be tied to the cathode somehow. I still have all the wiring in the panel as it was when I found it. There are 12 floors and a basement, so I'm thinking the buttons can represent the hour of a clock as well as an am/pm light. Furthermore, for setting the time, the tubes can still be used as buttons to type in the time. I'd appreciate if I can get some tips on driving circuitry and supplies since these are cold cathode neon tubes, something I have never dealt with before. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/7ab268e7-dd97-4fc3-b96f-8a72f5466838%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] neon otis elevator 'touch tubes'
Thanks for the clarification. On Tuesday, October 21, 2014 1:48:36 PM UTC-5, I wrote: Tube Lore lists 2040 in the RCA section as A.K.A. 1C21.Ira. On 10/20/2014 4:32 PM, Joe Zatarski wrote: thanks, I had the Otis document, but no datasheet for these tubes. I don't believe they are 1C21, but maybe they are close enough? I think my tubes say 2040 on them. Also, that article seems to be something current (2008) whereas this elevator panel is from the 60's or 70's at the latest I think. Perhaps you meant a different article? On Monday, October 20, 2014 4:32:18 PM UTC-5, OrangeGlow wrote: Here is the Otis document that has the info I've based my work on. Also, the 1C21 specs and a newspaper article. These panels ended up as scrap because of the ionizing source added to lower the trigger voltage. Tim Lang has been my supplier of tubes and info. If you search for his posts on this list you will probably find more info. Cheers, Tom On 10/20/2014 11:47 AM, Joe Zatarski wrote: https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10698438_610527725718483_574889276774171791_n.jpg?oh=19a589987217d977b1bd6405a114aa2aoe=54BBBAE2__gda__=1421665936_039f165285dbc97c5c6f11a9c75d96fe -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/2c590330-8c9d-4bcb-943e-fdd65881c162%40googlegroups.com https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/2c590330-8c9d-4bcb-943e-fdd65881c162%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=emailutm_source=footer . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/4ee7c3e8-7dae-4890-a29d-a6f98a87c6eb%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: neon otis elevator 'touch tubes'
I guess now what I would like to know are some example circuits for power supplies maybe? I guess I need 135VDC, and it needs to be isolated from the mains because it'll also have 150VAC on it relative to earth ground. Easiest to do is get a transformer (if I can find the right voltage output) but how about regulation? Is a properly sized zener diode good enough? On Monday, October 20, 2014 10:41:47 AM UTC-5, Joe Zatarski wrote: So I found an elevator control panel in the garbage. They were replacing a broken one in the dorm next to mine. It appears to have 425A5 'touch tube' trigger tubes instead of mechanical switches. I saw an old thread here about them which had a bit of info. I think you need to connect a 150vac supply between ground and the cathode, then 135vdc across the anode and cathode to use them as a touch button. There needs to be some resistance in series with the tube of course, and the 135vdc needs to be isolated from the ac. Also, I think the trigger input needs to be tied to the cathode somehow. I still have all the wiring in the panel as it was when I found it. There are 12 floors and a basement, so I'm thinking the buttons can represent the hour of a clock as well as an am/pm light. Furthermore, for setting the time, the tubes can still be used as buttons to type in the time. I'd appreciate if I can get some tips on driving circuitry and supplies since these are cold cathode neon tubes, something I have never dealt with before. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/4399a59c-ff13-4945-8195-6e44caea789a%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] neon otis elevator 'touch tubes'
all my tubes have 2040 printed on them, all of them have a TD71 sticker, and two say 425A5 on a sticker. On Tuesday, October 21, 2014 1:55:29 PM UTC-5, Dekatron42 wrote: Here is a photo of a tube marked 2040 on the glass and 425A5 on the base http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_2040.html , I can't vote for its authenticity but I have both types but not one with both markings. I have also scraped away the black paint from 1C21s and they have an identical construction inside and work just as well as the others being touch sensitive. I read a few old patents where they mentioned that the black paint was there just there to make them less light and touch sensitive, the other difference I read about was that the ones used in touch buttons were selected for their voltage, which is how some are marked - the last digit in 425A5 marks the voltage 2 = 72V, 5= 75V on the tubes I own. You can read more here as they have been discussed earlier: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/neonixie-l/Ygr3IqWcVDQ/2fCV8ANU5XcJ /Martin -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/f09a812a-2109-4fb8-b7f4-3fa47279aaf7%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] neon otis elevator 'touch tubes'
So I found an elevator control panel in the garbage. They were replacing a broken one in the dorm next to mine. It appears to have 425A5 'touch tube' trigger tubes instead of mechanical switches. I saw an old thread here about them which had a bit of info. I think you need to connect a 150vac supply between ground and the cathode, then 135vdc across the anode and cathode to use them as a touch button. There needs to be some resistance in series with the tube of course, and the 135vdc needs to be isolated from the ac. Also, I think the trigger input needs to be tied to the cathode somehow. I still have all the wiring in the panel as it was when I found it. There are 12 floors and a basement, so I'm thinking the buttons can represent the hour of a clock as well as an am/pm light. Furthermore, for setting the time, the tubes can still be used as buttons to type in the time. I'd appreciate if I can get some tips on driving circuitry and supplies since these are cold cathode neon tubes, something I have never dealt with before. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bbce197d-03c5-4883-9514-929ea396408a%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] neon otis elevator 'touch tubes'
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10698438_610527725718483_574889276774171791_n.jpg?oh=19a589987217d977b1bd6405a114aa2aoe=54BBBAE2__gda__=1421665936_039f165285dbc97c5c6f11a9c75d96fe -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/88a8e68f-a7d3-48b0-be5d-418ee7e473a6%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] neon otis elevator 'touch tubes'
thanks, I had the Otis document, but no datasheet for these tubes. I don't believe they are 1C21, but maybe they are close enough? I think my tubes say 2040 on them. Also, that article seems to be something current (2008) whereas this elevator panel is from the 60's or 70's at the latest I think. Perhaps you meant a different article? On Monday, October 20, 2014 4:32:18 PM UTC-5, OrangeGlow wrote: Here is the Otis document that has the info I've based my work on. Also, the 1C21 specs and a newspaper article. These panels ended up as scrap because of the ionizing source added to lower the trigger voltage. Tim Lang has been my supplier of tubes and info. If you search for his posts on this list you will probably find more info. Cheers, Tom On 10/20/2014 11:47 AM, Joe Zatarski wrote: https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10698438_610527725718483_574889276774171791_n.jpg?oh=19a589987217d977b1bd6405a114aa2aoe=54BBBAE2__gda__=1421665936_039f165285dbc97c5c6f11a9c75d96fe -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/2c590330-8c9d-4bcb-943e-fdd65881c162%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
