[NSP] Re: Correct grade of oi l?

2008-10-27 Thread Christopher.Birch 
I use neatsfoot and have had no problems.
c 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 9:54 AM
To: nsp@cs.dartmouth.edu
Subject: [NSP] Correct grade of oi l?


   Hi

  Being very new to  piping I get a bit confused about the 
right type
   of oil for the pipes .Some say neatsfoot oil some say 
paraffin oil some
   say olive oil, I am sure someone recommends Castrol GTX ! 
Can someone
   enlighten me on the reasons for one type of oil over the 
other? Or is
   it just tradition? I have always used .. it must be the 
best, or is
   there some science behind the choices?

   Regards Graham


   Graham Wright

   Faculty of Health  Medical Sciences

   University of Surrey

   Guildford

   Surrey GU2 7XH

   TEL:01483682613


   --


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[NSP] Re: Correct grade of oi l?

2008-10-27 Thread Barry Say 
On 27 Oct 2008 at 10:40, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I use neatsfoot and have had no problems.
 c 
 
I heartily endorse Christopher's opinion.

However, the quality of the neatsfoot is of paramount importance. 
There is a lot of inferior stuff on the market.

I think we should be talking only about pure neatsfoot. It should be 
a clear liquid even down to quite low temperatures. Personally, I 
have been using Fiebing's oil. 

As neatsfoot oil is a saturated animal oil, it does not dry out and 
mixes well with beeswax on the thread wrappings on various parts of 
the pipes. It seems to stay where it is put pretty well.  I find  
absolutely no problem and see no reason to change. It has been in use 
within the piping community over many years.

If the chanter seems to be drinking oil I would certainly use olive 
oil or raw linseed oil in the bore. these will penetrate the pores in 
the woodeand set to provide a shiny surface which will improve the 
tone of the wood. For Olive oil I prefer a very light coloured oil 
and I leave the bottle in sunshine to bleach it.

In my youth, olive oil was only obtainable from a chemist and was 
used as a laxative and to dissolve earwax. You certainly wouldn't 
cook with it or consume it except in dire need.

Some pipers have used Almond Oil.

I keep well away from liquid paraffin. It is chemically inert and 
there is very little chance of it clinging to the wood. I fear that 
as a solvent it will draw the natural oils out of the wood and may 
cause damage if used for extensive periods.  Similarly, I suspect it 
will dissolve the beeswax on the thread wrappings, causing them to 
dry out and wear out.

Barry



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[NSP] Re: Correct grade of oi l?

2008-10-27 Thread rosspipes 
It looks as though I have been missing a dot in trying to send messages to the 
List. Here goes again with dot.


CR










-Original Message-

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Sent: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 17:21

Subject: Fwd: Re: [NSP] Re: Correct grade of oi l?







It looks as though this message was not sent earlier today so here is a copy of 
it. Apologies if you have received it already.


I noticed that Barry has posted his opinion on oils which may well be right as 
far as he goes but my experience over forty years or so is otherwise. Let's see 
whose pipes are the first to disintegrate.


Colin R










-Original Message-

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

CC: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Sent: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 12:13

Subject: Re: [NSP] Re: Correct grade of oi l?







The main constituent of Baby oil is liqud paraffin (?NOT paraffin oil )?and the 
Gel version does not evaporate away quite so quickly as the ordinary liquid 
paraffin ( mineral oil ). It does have a slight smell which can be associated 
with babies which us fellas may not have such fond memories of as the 
lady/girl/female pipers.


Mike gave a good summary of the advantages of this oil which is used 
extensively in skin and beauty treatments. I now use the liquid paraffin with 
beeswax as my bag and bellows dressing as it does not cause tarnishing of the 
metalwork from evaporation when pipes are left enclosed in their cases for any 
length of time.


I have no adverse comments on its use since I have been recommending it


An additional benefit of using it is that my fingers have been in much better 
condition bearing n mind the contact they have with exotic wood dust and brass 
filings in my pipemaking work.


Colin R










-Original Message-

From: colin lt;[EMAIL PROTECTED]gt;

To: NSP Mailing List lt;nsp@cs.dartmouth.edugt;

Sent: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 11:30

Subject: [NSP] Re: Correct grade of oi l?





Having tried most of the oils recommended over the last 30-odd years (including 
almond, neatsfoot, lavender, etc) I took Colin Ross's advice after reading 
about all the trouble he had been through repairing sets when the oils had 
hardened (especially when not played on a regular basis) - including my own 
set.?

I've used mineral oil (liquid paraffin - as sold by a chemist/pharmacy for use 
as a laxative) and I have found it excellent with no problems or ill-effects.?

Due to health problems, my pipes often remain in their case for several months 
at a time but they haven't had any problems since I started using it (before 
this, the keys would be stiff, pads leaking etc and occasionally have to have 
lumps of hardened oil removed from various parts.?

I'm a convert to it and also don't like the smell of baby oils!?

Colin Hill?

- Original Message - From: Mike Sharp lt;[EMAIL PROTECTED]gt;?

To: NSP Mailing List lt;nsp@cs.dartmouth.edugt;?

Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 11:16 AM?

Subject: [NSP] Re: Correct grade of oi l??

?

gt;?

gt; Graham Wright writes:?

gt; ... I get a bit confused about the right type of oil for the pipes ?

gt; Here we go again. :-)?

gt; As I recall from the last time this came up:?

gt; Neatsfoot oil works but will cause verdigris on the keywork if the?

gt; pipes are allowed to sit unmaintained.?

gt; Olive oil works but will build up a residue over time and it will get?

gt; quite sticky if the pipes are allowed to sit unmaintained.?

gt; Mineral oil (liquid paraffin) works well, leaves no residue, and?

gt; doesn't effect the metal ferrules or keywork. There are no apparent?

gt; side-effects if you have a serious lapse in the maintenance of your?

gt; pipes. It was the recommended oil by the NPS technical director and is?

gt; what I'm currently using. Various experimentation occurred with?

gt; mixing this and Vaseline (a less-liquid paraffin) to yeild a thicker?

gt; mixture. I'm not 100% certain but Johnson's Baby Oil Gel may be the?

gt; current recommended product; its a slightly thicker version of liquid?

gt; paraffin which doesn't dry out quite as quickly but it comes with a?

gt; scent. Personally, I have enough things in my life that smell like?

gt; babies, including a real baby. I don't feel the need to make my pipes?

gt; smell like a baby too. :-)?

gt; --Mike?

gt;?

gt; --?

gt;?

gt;?

gt; To get on or off this list see list information at?

gt; http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html?

gt;?

gt; ?

?






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