[NSP] pipe cases

2010-02-19 Thread Paul Gretton
   BTW, anyone thinking of building their own (wooden) case might benefit
   from the following tip:

   Don't make the two parts separately - the case itself and the lid --
   and then try to fit them together. What the factories do is build the
   case closed and then saw it open to create the two parts. This makes
   the woodwork much simpler and you get a more accurate joint.

   I was only alerted to this AFTER already building a couple of cases.
   D'oh... J

   Cheers,

   Paul Gretton
   --


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[NSP] Re: pipe cases

2010-02-19 Thread Richard York
This is especially true if you have the skill and the right saw to cut 
the whole thing in two with a decent straight line which meets up with 
itself in all the right places...


Richard.

Paul Gretton wrote:

   BTW, anyone thinking of building their own (wooden) case might benefit
   from the following tip:

   Don't make the two parts separately - the case itself and the lid --
   and then try to fit them together. What the factories do is build the
   case closed and then saw it open to create the two parts. This makes
   the woodwork much simpler and you get a more accurate joint.

   I was only alerted to this AFTER already building a couple of cases.
   D'oh... J

   Cheers,

   Paul Gretton
   --


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[NSP] Re: pipe cases

2010-02-19 Thread Francis Wood

On 19 Feb 2010, at 13:36, Richard York wrote:

 This is especially true if you have the skill and the right saw to cut the 
 whole thing in two with a decent straight line which meets up with itself in 
 all the right places...

 . . . . and the presence of mind to remove the pipes first.

Francis



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[NSP] Re: pipe cases

2010-02-19 Thread Victor Eskenazi
   If you want to build your own, but don't have too much in the way of
   (electric) tools...



   I first made a skeleton/frame (1/1), then lay a thin sheet of plywood
   (1 side top grade) on top of it

   As you mention about cutting - this made the cutting much easier, I
   used a cheap, hand-held jig saw/scroll type saw.



   Of course, to make everything fit together nicer, I then put a 1
   wide finishing strip, brass corners and rubber feet.  I think it came
   out rather nice looking.



   Oh, then of course comes putting in the foam padding...



   Victor

   On Fri, Feb 19, 2010 at 01:39, Paul Gretton
   [1]i...@gretton-willems.com wrote:

   BTW, anyone thinking of building their own (wooden) case might
 benefit
   from the following tip:
   Don't make the two parts separately - the case itself and the lid
 --
   and then try to fit them together. What the factories do is build
 the
   case closed and then saw it open to create the two parts. This
 makes
   the woodwork much simpler and you get a more accurate joint.
   I was only alerted to this AFTER already building a couple of
 cases.
   D'oh... J
   Cheers,
   Paul Gretton
   --
 To get on or off this list see list information at
 [2]http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html

   --

References

   1. mailto:i...@gretton-willems.com
   2. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html



[NSP] Re: pipe cases

2010-02-19 Thread Richard York

And beware of the Wrong sort of foam!
For various instrument cases some years ago I got this superb stuff from 
a car upholsterer: foam-backed cloth with quite a raised nap - smashing 
and quite classy looking
.. for the first 12 - 15 years. After which the foam de-natures and 
fills the case, and the instrument, with really annoying tiny bits of 
foam. Ideal in a hurdy gurdy.


More recently I used free sheets of expanded polystyrene packing from 
some flat-pack furniture, cut  glued in place with charity shop velvet 
curtain over the top. (PVA or Copydex)
Heat  impact protection, and the curtain looks classy as long as it's 
plain and dark.


Richard.

Victor Eskenazi wrote:

  ..



   Oh, then of course comes putting in the foam padding...




  




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[NSP] Re: pipe cases

2010-02-19 Thread Julia Say
On 19 Feb 2010, Richard York wrote: 

 And beware of the Wrong sort of foam!
 .. for the first 12 - 15 years. After which the foam de-natures 

The old-style foam is grim stuff once past its use-by date. I've currently got 
here 
a retired NPS competition trophy which was packed in it and hasn't seen the 
light 
of day for about 15 years. 
The foam has degenerated into a collection of sticky. (oh dear I think I'm 
back 
to snotomers, sorry folks, that was unintentional) unpleasantnesses which are 
going 
to have to be painstakingly cleaned off both the trophy and the box it was 
lining 
before restoration of the box can commence.

Luckily I have a volunteer for this job. Anyway the point of the story is 
perhaps 
that I wouldn't bet on any such substance being good for more than 10 years. We 
don't know what today's versions might do in the future.

Good luck

Julia



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