[old-chevy-truck] Re: Carby Question - FIXED! LOL

[Nate]

Roy ;

No red face ~ this is a very common problem , even with only one Rottenchester 
Leaks-A-Lot 'B' Series carby

Nice to hear you sorted it out .

How do you like the dual carbys ? .

-Nate
 Roy wrote :
>
> I am constantly reminded that you can fix things faster if you get your head 
> out of your butt. The symptoms of my problem suggested a fast idle issue. 
> However, what it was is that when I put the new carby in, there was just 
> enough binding so that when slowly releasing the pedal, the engine stayed at 
> a "fast idle" but if you tapped the pedal, it gave the spring just enough 
> extra momentum to completely seat the idle screw. Boy is my face red...LOL
> 
> Roy
> '51 3600
> The Sleepy Dragon
> 
> 
>





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[old-chevy-truck] Re : Clutch and pressure plate

[Nate]

That's why God gave you two hands.

It's also why both my hands and much of my face are so beat up.

-Nate
 James  wrote :
>
> I got my flyweel replaced.  With the engine in place, it's quite a chore but 
> I got it done.  Now I need a trick.  The manual shows the engine upside down 
> to replace this stuff.  Working from underneath, when the pressure plate 
> falls on you, it hurts.  How do you hold the clutch in place while you put 
> the pressure plate in its place, until you can center the clutch with the 
> centering tool?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






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[old-chevy-truck] Re: More Radiator Stuff

[Nate]

U.S. Radiator in Los Angles , used to be on Washington .

A new three row core shouldn't be over $350 .

-Nate
 Steven  wrote :
>
> A little off topic but trying to buy a decent replacement radiator for my 
> 1968 Impala.   Ordered 1 from Advance Auto and promptly returned it-fins too 
> weak to withstand impact with a bug, no built-in nuts for attaching the 
> shroud, no access holes for bolting to core support,  trans cooler 
> connections in wrong spots.  Every other one avail at FLAPS and pictured on 
> web looks to be the same junk.  Radiator shop wants big $$ to recore.
> 
> Anybody know where the right part might be located that FITS?
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> 
> 1953 3100
> 1952 3600
> 1968 (hot) Impala
> 
> From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ccpanel
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2012 12:13 PM
> To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: More Radiator Stuff
> 
> 
> 
> my 2 concerns with alum rad is one-
> they dont flex as much as copper before breaking.
> everything on our trucks is meant to flex and designed that way.
> two-without TIG or some kind of insane epoxy-I cant repair a copper radiator. 
> alum ones rarely get repaired or can be repaired-they usually get recycled 
> and you buy a new one.
> 
> I USE my truck so when I get around to buying a new rad(which I REALLY need) 
> its gonna be 'cough' a $$copper$$ radiator... =/
> Mark
> 
> --- In 
> old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, 
> "Woodie Guy" mailto:tikuayla@>> wrote:
> >
> > I see on ebay, there are Champion Aluminum radiators for about $125 less 
> > than an original repo type radiator. I am not concerned with having a 100% 
> > stock, original truck. Does Aluminum cool more efficiently? Anybody have 
> > input about using an Aluminum radiator?
> >
> > Thanks, and have a great day...
> >
> > Charlie, fixin that RED RYDER
> >
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






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[old-chevy-truck] Re : 1957 3100 Pickup Truck

[Nate]

Yeah ;

I have it on vynil and a CD of his biggest hits.

I just thought it would resonate here .

-Nate
Mark   wrote:
>
> I personally don't need to, I have it on cassette!
> Mark
> 
> --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, "Nate"  wrote:
> >
> > 
> > I enjoin you to search Poo-Toob or Pandora Radio etc.for CW McCall's " 
> > Classified " song , you'll like it I feel sure .
> > 
> > -Nate
> > --- Mark wrote :
> > >
> >  
> > > 
> > > My brother bought his 57 Chevy pickup from the original owner, a farmer. 
> > > When the farmer bought his "new" truck, he transferred his bed stakes 
> > > from his "old" worn out pickup to his "new" 57. The truck still has 
> > > those on it. They are oak painted black and are in ok shape. These are 
> > > probably not what you want (I have no idea whether they were factory or 
> > > not), but I could probably come up with pictures short term and maybe 
> > > measured drawings longer term if there is any interest.
> > > 
> > > Outside of some fender bender damage that was repaired in the early 60s 
> > > and my brother's repaint of the wheels/bumpers, this is a still running 
> > > unrestored original truck...the interior is pretty ratty but the 
> > > exterior looks ok.
> > > 
> > > Mark N
> > > 
> > >
> >
>






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[old-chevy-truck] Re : Clutch Disc

[Nate]

The side without the snout ~ that faces the tranny .

Most clutches , you simply hold the clutch disc up against the flywheel and 
it'll only fit one way , the snout prevents it from sitting flush .

Remember : as you install the new clutch , use a pilot tool (plastic ones are 
super cheap these days) and run the bolts in ny fingers until they're all 
snug(ish) then use a 6 point socket to turn each bolt 1/2 turn before moving 
onto the next one , going round and round , this draws up the pressure plate 
evenly so it'll last longer and not wear out your new clutch disc .

The same goes when removing ~ unless you're rich and automatically plan to 
replace the pressure plate , always loosen all the bolts 1/2 turn then go round 
and round loosening them evenly .

I hope you lubed the pilot bushing and checked that all the clutch bolts are 
the same brand , length etc. and have matching split lock washers ? .

I also always wipe the friction surfaces of both flywheel and pressure plate 
with alcohol or ether and a clean rag before re assembly .


-Nate
James   wrote:
>
> 
> I got my clutch from O'reilly.  Got ,my flywheel surfaced .015  I don't think 
> the pressure plate is bad.  not sure what to look for.  Classic Parts of 
> America might send a throwout bearing one of these times.  No sticker on the 
> clutch..which side is the flywheel side?
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  





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Re: [old-Chevy-truck] Clutch and pressure plate

[Mike & Inez Mail]

I used a hack saw to get mine shortened, so it would work. All I needed was 
enough to get my fingers on the stub to pull it out.
Mike

  
Good idea on theory, but in practice the tool sticks out too far.  The pressure 
plate can not go over it.

--- On Sat, 9/8/12, Mike & Inez Mail  wrote:

 

Use the centering tool to hold the clutch disk in place, then place the 
pressure plate over the disk and centering tool. bolt it up and wala new clutch 
installed.

Mike 50 3100

I got my flyweel replaced. With the engine in place, it's quite a chore but I 
got it done. Now I need a trick. The manual shows the engine upside down to 
replace this stuff. Working from underneath, when the pressure plate falls on 
you, it hurts. How do you hold the clutch in place while you put the pressure 
plate in its place, until you can center the clutch with the centering tool?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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[old-chevy-truck] Rivets

[James Tye]

I am replacing the terminal strips that go on the inner fender.  The ones that 
connect the headlights.  What is the correct rivet to use?  Would a hardware 
store have it?






  










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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