Re: [old-chevy-truck] RE: oiling

2013-09-26 Thread m...@noakes.com
It's not uncommon for newer fuel injected cars to put a fuel filter down 
in the frame rail; my 86 Corvette has one there...but then the fuel 
pressure is higher to push it through as well.


Mark N

On 9/26/13 6:49 AM, rl_westmorel...@yahoo.com wrote:


Anyone ever put fuel filter in line between gas tank and fuel pump? In 
pictures that i find on the internet all seem to show up next to carb.


Robert






Re: [old-Chevy-truck] Shop ceiling height

2013-03-02 Thread m...@noakes.com
I have a 2 car garage with 8 ft ceilings with tracks for the garage 
doors and door openers in their usual places near the ceiling. I'm doing 
an engine swap in a 97 Jeep Wrangler with a permanent roof rack on it 
right now. The trans requires a lot of underneath work; the engine 
requires a lot of overhead work. I'm definitely having clearance both 
getting the Jeep far enough in the air to clear things that need to go 
underneath, and I have trouble getting the engine lift high enough in 
the air to drop things down from the top. The garage door/rails/opener 
are the main culprit here. (Unfortunately in my configuration the garage 
door has to be open to move the engine hoist in from the front.)

Go 10 ft or more if you can.

Mark N



On 3/2/13 4:31 PM, Ken Wagner wrote:

 Sam.
 My 52 chev 3100 will easily fit into an opening with a 8ft ceiling 
 even with the hood open. If you plan on lifting it up higher for 
 working on the underside, an 8 ft ceiling may be a bit challenging. I 
 have worked on many a car and truck over the years, including engine 
 removal and can never recollect wishing I had a higher ceiling.
 Just sayin.' Good luck! KEN





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] sandblast media

2012-10-16 Thread m...@noakes.com
It sounds like the course grit aluminum oxide sold by places like 
Tractor Supply under the brand name Black Diamond...though I think it 
sometimes has a green cast to it.

Mark

On 10/16/12 12:53 PM, Mike Burns wrote:

 Today I was doing some sandblasting, using a borrowed pressure blaster. It
 had some old media still in it that kept clogging the nozzle as it broke
 loose. I assume that it had absorbed some moisture because the blaster
 hadn't been used for a few years. I took a rod and stirred up as well as I
 could and went ahead and used it up.

 It was by far the best stuff that I've ever used. I couldn't believe how
 well it worked. The blaster owner doesn't remember what it is, so I'm
 looking for educated guesses from you folks. The stuff was very 
 course, and
 was irregular in shape, not round. It was shiny jet black in color. 
 The best
 description that I can give you is that it looked very much like ground up
 coal, if you know what coal looks like. I would like to buy some of 
 it, but
 have no idea what it is. What are your best guesses or ideas?

 Thanks much,

 Mike




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Re: [old-chevy-truck] stock racks

2012-09-03 Thread m...@noakes.com
The pdf was really cool (especially liked the info on the 39 Suburban 
and station wagons), but these bed stakes appear to be for flat bed trucks.

My brother bought his 57 Chevy pickup from the original owner, a farmer. 
When the farmer bought his new truck, he transferred his bed stakes 
from his old worn out pickup to his new 57. The truck still has 
those on it. They are oak painted black and are in ok shape. These are 
probably not what you want (I have no idea whether they were factory or 
not), but I could probably come up with pictures short term and maybe 
measured drawings longer term if there is any interest.

Outside of some fender bender damage that was repaired in the early 60s 
and my brother's repaint of the wheels/bumpers, this is a still running 
unrestored original truck...the interior is pretty ratty but the 
exterior looks ok.

Mark N

On 9/2/12 11:47 PM, cadamsa...@aol.com wrote:

 Hello James and Ole Truckers,

 I think there are drawings for a light duty and a heavy duty rack at:
 http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/aben-plans/6192.pdf

 Regards and hope this helps,

 Culver Adams
 1951 Chevy 3100
 Minneapolis, MN




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Re: [old-chevy-truck] tire size

2012-02-09 Thread m...@noakes.com
235/75R13 was what I had on my 58...not sure if the ADs are different.

Mark N

On 2/9/12 10:06 AM, vernongenis wrote:


 What tire size can I put on my original 15  rims. I have a 1950 3600
 PU. It now has 7.00/15. I want a modern tire size that is not so tall
 and skinny.




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Re: [old-chevy-truck] tire size

2012-02-09 Thread m...@noakes.com
The best tire calculator I know of, but it doesn't include the old 
X.XX-XX format.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Mark N

On 2/9/12 2:59 PM, Luke Zsiga wrote:

 Try to get the tallest tire possible. Our trucks are geared to pull stumps
 not to really drive comfortably. The taller your tire is the faster you
 will be able to go (and by fast I mean 50 55 60 mph). I've read that some
 people have used a 32 tall tire you can use one of the online tire size
 calculators to convert the tire size to its height in inches. Other than
 swamp tires I don't think they make a tire for a 15 rim that is to tall
 for our trucks.

 Luke Zsiga




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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: shake down cruise

2011-08-17 Thread m...@noakes.com
Bill,

The engine in the 86 vette is the original aluminum head small block 350 
so 1986. Big differences between that vette and your truck include: 
tuned port injection instead of carburetion, 2.73 vs. 3.36 rear, and 
overdrive transmission vs Muncie, and the 48 may weigh as much as 1,000 
lbs more than the vette. Not sure on how much the altitude would impact 
the mileage. What is your rpm at 55mph? I bet it's way over my 1600rpm.

With the right setup, you should be able to break 20mpg in your truck, 
but the focus of this list is more stock vehicles.

Mark N

On 8/16/11 10:24 PM, Bill Yanish wrote:

 What yr is the 86vett eng 350 I have a 48 ' with an older 350  muncie 
 4spd and 3.36 re. In colo. 1 mi hi. I only get @ 10mpg . really need 
 to get more so I can drive it more especially in winter . I have a 
 82 280 nissan ZX . Gets good mpg @ 30 but last owner set it up with 
 the bigger wheels and those lousy no cusion tires  lowered it . It 
 really kinda screwed it up. I had a 79 280 with stock everything . 
 Made it through the snow with no! prob. Just put 2 70lb sand bags with 
 reg tires . Never got stuck . Bill

 From: m...@noakes.com mailto:mark%40noakes.com m...@noakes.com 
 mailto:mark%40noakes.com
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
 mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com
 Cc: Ron rsi...@cox.net mailto:rsims2%40cox.net
 Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:31 PM
 Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: shake down cruise


 I have had similar and even better experience with an 86 Corvette 350,
 tuned port injection, 700R4, 2.73 rear end, intake and exhaust freed up
 for racing, and it gets about 27mpg on the Interstate with the cruise
 set on 70mph. I've hypermiled it with all the tricks and including
 limiting speeds to no more than 55mph to 32mpg (boring...). At 55mph,
 it's only turning about 1600rpm...but loves it...doesn't lug.

 You're NOT going to get mpg like that running a stock carbureted vintage
 truck engine running through 3.90 gears. The Task Force trucks also
 weigh more. Count on about 1mpg loss for each 300lbs of additional weight.

 I intend to run my 58 Suburban with a small block V8 through a stock
 3-speed and a Borg Warner OD. The OD drops the effective gear ratio down
 quite a bit...seems like it was to 2.73. Still have to see how that
 works out as the truck is in stalled restoration mode.

 Mark N




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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: shake down cruise

2011-08-16 Thread m...@noakes.com
I have had similar and even better experience with an 86 Corvette 350, 
tuned port injection, 700R4, 2.73 rear end, intake and exhaust freed up 
for racing, and it gets about 27mpg on the Interstate with the cruise 
set on 70mph. I've hypermiled it with all the tricks and including 
limiting speeds to no more than 55mph to 32mpg (boring...). At 55mph, 
it's only turning about 1600rpm...but loves it...doesn't lug.

You're NOT going to get mpg like that running a stock carbureted vintage 
truck engine running through 3.90 gears. The Task Force trucks also 
weigh more. Count on about 1mpg loss for each 300lbs of additional weight.

I intend to run my 58 Suburban with a small block V8 through a stock 
3-speed and a Borg Warner OD. The OD drops the effective gear ratio down 
quite a bit...seems like it was to 2.73. Still have to see how that 
works out as the truck is in stalled restoration mode.

Mark N

On 8/16/11 8:57 PM, Ron wrote:



 That's awesome. Just curious, do you know what you get running 65 to 
 70 mph?

 --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
 mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com, Mike  Inez Plucker 
 impluck@... wrote:
 
  I can back up that MPG. I am running a 72 Corvette 350 bored .30 
 over. With
  a 700R4 and 3.00 rear end. I get 22.5 MPG at 75 to 80 MPH, on long 
 trips.
  Makes me smile.
  Mike 50 3100.
 
 
   gm ramjet 350, 700r4, 3.27 gear
  
   never saw final report of your drivetrain that got you that MPG
   please advise.
   Mark
  
3400 miles in 10 days, aka hotrod power tour 2011.
detroit to cocoa bch and back to detroit.
truk performed flawlessly, 20.1 mpg with the cruise @ 80 and 
 the ac on.
i'm still smiling.
 

 



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[old-chevy-truck] slightly off topic but relevant--repairing hail damage

2011-04-30 Thread m...@noakes.com
Does anyone have experience with repairing hail damage themselves as in 
actually doing the body work? I got blasted in Wednesday's storms. One 
vehicle can go through insurance; the other I need to do myself or it 
would be totaled due to its low value before restoration.

Anyone have experience with insurance whereas once a vehicle is totaled, 
even if you redo it you cannot get comprehensive on it after that?

Hoods can be replaced (and will need to be) but the roof in particular 
is a concern, and I'm not sure if there aren't other body panels that 
would be better to repair than to replace...that's even if they are 
available to replace at all.

A key interest is that I've heard that the dings may pop out either on 
their own or intermittently under wide temperature variation 
(winter-summer repeated cycles). What's the best technique--body filler 
or body solder--given the structural issues?

I gather that paintless dent repair is quite expensive--true or not? Not 
quite justified when the vehicle needs paint anyway?

Thanks for any input,

Mark N
Various old GM trucks and cars




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