Hello John and Ole Truckers,
During the first summer 1951 Chevy 3100 I were getting to know each other
(by butting heads over the bucking bronco issues you describe) we took many a
trip around the nearby lake to test yet another fix. I'd ask around, get
another idea or two, tear open the Rochester B, dump sediment, test drive,
and
repeat. I learned to carry my tools in the cab a tin can in the box--to drain
crud from the fuel tank. I was able to drive it, but had to wait an hour
after a large meal. When a friend, older than the truck, volunteered to hold
his
gas station go-cup under the fuel line at the carby while I cranked her over to
check the flow, the fuel ate the plastic like pac-man, hit the exhaust, I
figured the fact it didn't ignite was a lesson from Heaven. I got methodical
started from the beginning rebuilt the fuel system:
In-cab fuel tank: cleaned, lined, replaced sender's electric ground with
copper.
Fuel tank drain spout: cleaned. (This drain is our friend: a monthly draw
into a glass jar tells a lot about what's happening in the tank.)
Fuel lines: replaced flexible ones--cleaned steel ones with a copper
wire--kind of like cleaning the bore of a .22 rifle.
Fuel filter: installed ahead of fuel pump. (Used a transparent body
filter--I like to see if there is fuel in there.)
Fuel pump: installed rebuilt combo fuel/vacume pump to help windshield
wipers on uphill runs. (Original looked good so it is a spare.)
Pressure regulator: installed rebuilt Holley low pressure type, along with
very small pressure gauge. (Our carbies seem happy at @ 3.5 psi. Now I can
adjust to that. I can look at gauge see I have pressure from the fuel pump. I
can also see pressure half an hour after shutting off the engine--tells me
carburetor seals are working.)
Fuel filter: installed ahead of carburetor. (Used glass bowl type--probably
overkill, but I like the way it looks. Thanks for the tip to VWNate1, I'll be
adding a small magnet to capture little iron stuff.)
Carburetor: rebuilt the Rochester B. (IMHO, if the throttle shaft/bushings
are worn, don't bother--life is too short. Ask me how I learned.)
Air cleaner: replaced the original mesh screen cleaner with an oil bath
type. (I think it works better--I know it looks better on a truck, IMHO.)
To my way of thinking, if a person goes this far, they may as well get the
job done:
Electric wiring: replaced ignition circuit from battery to starter to all
ignition components provided direct copper wire from starter, engine
everything grounded back to battery. (If iron rusts, why would a person
voluntarily
use it as an electrical conductor or connection in a truck?)
Tuning: it's to our trucks what maple syrup is to pancakes.
1951 Chevy 3100 I now drive around the lake for pleasure, not looking for
an emergency landing spot. I can drive on a full stomach. Most of my tools
don't ride in the truck anymore. Even after a below zero night, she starts on
the
first revolution. Life is good.
Hope this helps regards,
Culver Adams
1951 Chevy 3100
Minneapolis
---
In a message dated 2007-03-24 00:13:47 Central Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Subj:[old-chevy-truck] 1951 chev pu
Date:2007-03-24 00:13:47 Central Daylight Time
From:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-to:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
To:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent from the Internet
I have a 1951 chev pu. it has a 235 engine. my question is, when the
truck has been driven 15 to 20 min, its starts to jerk at cruising
speed, like it is missing or running out of gas. does any one know what
this might be. thanks, John
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Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
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