[OGD] survey - rare species / Minnesota
Minnesota County Biological Survey. ... started in 1987, ... an effort to identify and preserve rare plant and animal species around the state. Researchers will focus on Hubbard County this summer. ... The rare ram's head orchid has been found in the northern part of the state, including in Hubbard County and Itasca State Park. The bog adder's-mouth orchid is only found in Minnesota (within the 48 contiguous states), and even then only in Itasca State Park and near Bemidji. ... the main goals for the survey are to minimize the impact of development on native species and habitats and prioritize conservation planning. ... When the survey is complete, which may take anywhere from one summer to two years, the DNR [Department of Natural Resources] will provide the county with a GIS map of rare species, and work with the county on conservation efforts. source : http://www.parkrapidsenterprise.com/article.cfm?Article_ID=3604 *** Regards, Viateur ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] sterilizing pots
Bert [Pressman] wrote: Used pots, soaked in chlorine solution over night come out entirely clean. Moss, algae, debris etc. simply disappear... 1) You refer to plastic pots, right ? 2) Do you have references (real studies in the literature) that support your assertion that pots only need to be cleaned with water after having been soaked in a chlorine solution ? 3) What do you think of the following : Clean the plastic pots before treating them with Clorox. Soil and organic matter impair the viricidal properties of Clorox. (AOS Bulletin, December 1972, p. 1100.) ? *** Regards, Viateur ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Cypripedum and mycorrhizae
Harvey who asked: I am wondering if anyone knows if this fungus is only needed for germination or whether its presence in the substrate is also necessary for successful culture of adult plants. The short answer is that fungi are there for both. The fungi are usually present in the substrate; if not,they will get there very soon and form that symbiotic relationship with the seeds and the seedlings,even if the substrate is in pots; in an orchid room; inside your home. Many growersenrich their favorite Cypripedium substrate with soils (peat) taken from the natural habitat of the species, hoping to bring in with that soilthe fungus symbiotic with the species. The roots of mature Cypripedium are usually heavily colonized by symbiotic fungi compared to the roots of many other orchid genera.I have examined Cypripedium root cellsin Spring, Summer and Fall and found that more often than not they contain an abundance of cells containingpartly "consumed"pelotons, but rarely live pelotons in newly infected cells, possibly indicating that over the period of one year the fungus is active within a very small window. Whether that is in the fall or spring, I do not know. What is important to note is that Cypripediums at a given time(s) in the year do use orchid mycorrhiza as their nutrient source. I hope this helps, Peter ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Re: Virus and a Chuckle, natural hybrids
A good choice to sterilize things is to use a saturated solution (you put the salt untill it starts to deposit in the bottom of the solution) of Na3PO4. It will give you a pH of about 13, what is enough to kill virus and everething. Put your tools in the solution for at least 10 minutes, wash them, and its ready. Sodium triphosphate is easy to find in chemical products stores. About natural hybrids, when you make an hybrid, you are sure you have, for instance, C. skinnerii x C. arantiaca, only once of the both parents. When nature coss, you can have several crosses made. We have in Rio de Janeiro C. xvenosa = C. forbesii x. C. harrisoniana, and you find xvenosa very close to forbesii (only with some color difference) and xvenosa almost harrisoniana (some labelum difference), depending of how close they are of forbesii or harrisoniana population. None of them are pure, primary hybrids of C. forbesii and C. harrisoniana, and when you make the cross, you never have plants with the characteristics that you find in the wild plants. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.11.5 - Release Date: 4/5/2005 ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
Re: [OGD] sterilizing pots
I have used chlorine bleach for years to clean pots - plastic and clay - and clay media before reuse, and have never seen the _expression_ of any virus infection in anything. (I don't doubt that they're present, just haven't seen "color break" or leaf blotching, etc.). As to the AOS article reference, logically, if you can remove as much detritus as possible from the pot before the treatment, it will be a faster treatment, but even if you don't, a longer soak will still do the trick. If the author saw incomplete disinfection, he simply didn't treat long enough. Likewise, if you immerse a DRY clay pot or LECA, it will absorb the undiluted solution and the cleansing will go faster than if you do so with a wet pot, in which case the chlorine will have to diffuse into the preexisting pockets of liquid. Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.comPlants, Supplies, Artwork, Books and Lots of Free Info! - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: orchids@orchidguide.com Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 8:51 AM Subject: [OGD] sterilizing pots Bert [Pressman] wrote:"Used pots, soaked in chlorine solution over night come out entirely clean. Moss, algae, debris etc. simply disappear..."1) You refer to plastic pots, right ?2) Do you have references ("real studies in the literature") that support your assertion that pots only need to be cleaned with water after having been soaked in a chlorine solution ?3) What do you think of the following : "Clean the plastic pots before treating them with Clorox. Soil and organic matter impair the viricidal properties of Clorox." (AOS Bulletin, December 1972, p. 1100.) ?***Regards,Viateur ___the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD)orchids@orchidguide.comhttp://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] RE: Cyp. acaule and micorrhyzal fungi
I am wondering if anyone knows if this fungus is only needed for germination or whether its presence in the substrate is also necessary for successful culture of adult plants. Harvey Brenneise The OrchidSafari archives have 2 articles touching on this subject, and I believe we'll be talking a bit more about roots on Wed the 12th. The articles are from March and June (I think), 2003 (I know). Scroll down to find one on Cyps and one on mycorrhiza/roots Have a look: http://www.geocities.com/brassia.geo/OSTA.html K Barrett denmother OrchidSafari - 2 sites - http://www.orchidsafari.org and as listed above. _ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Re: Orchids Digest, Vol 7, Issue 244 Cyp acaule and mycorrhyzal fungi
In a message dated 5/7/05 6:03:26 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I am wondering if anyone knows if this fungus is only needed for germination or whether its presence in the substrate is also necessary for successful culture of adult plants. Thanks! Harvey Brenneise Although the fungus appears to be essential for germination of seeds in nature, once there are roots, they are infected and the fungus is no longer needed in the substrate for growth and flowering. Scott Durkee, of the VT Ladyslipper Farm, has also demonstrated that one can germinate this species and even grow it to flowering in flask without the fungus. Wilford Neptune ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
[OGD] Re:OGD V7 #245 Chlorine as Disinfectant
Viateur asks if I refer to plastic pots. Wrong! When I write of clay pots, that is a defined material. There are lots of plastics and I can't generalize for all,although in my experience all the various plasticpots that I have actually exposed to chlorine bleach have been chemicallyinert towardsit. Ioften clean my heavy plastic baskets with chlorine and it works fine. I do not recall coming across specific comments in the literature about the effectiveness of a water wash in removing residual bleach chlorine and salts from [clay] pots well enough to prevent interference with orchid growth. Has Viateur found any references to the contrary?I have used this procedure for the past 20 years without problems. My good friend Ray concurs with the effectiveness of the procedure [OGD V7 #245]. Perhaps I can usemy postin the OGD as a future reference for those who require them. Plastic pots are permeated less well by liquid and I would suppose they are even less injurious to plant growth after chlorine treatmentfollowed by a water rinse, provided the plastic is of a type not affected by bleach. As for the advantages ofhose washing the pots before soaking in chlorine, it would be prudent for keeping the soaking bath from becoming laden with soil debris [chlorine does not react with silica], but not absolutely necessary for viricidal effectiveness. What references to the contrary are cited in AOS Bulletin Dec 1972, p 1100? As for trisodium phosphate [TSP] as a viricide, this is ridiculous on its face. Despite the fact that it was suggested in an old Orchid Bulletin, it does nothing that any other way of achieving a pH of 13 would not accomplish, otherwise we wouldexpect removing phosphate from our fertilizers to promote orchid growth. For those who are stubbornly inclined to go this route, I suggest a teaspoon of common lye to a quart of water [more precisely 4 g lye/L] as a cheaper way of producing an alkaline cauterizing solution, pH 13, without the bells and whistles. But it would not solublize debris as does chlorine and it is so much slower in effect that the danger of insufficient treatment becomes a factor.It would also be more difficult to removecompletely from porous clay pots afterwards.Note that some chlorine gas is always in equilibrium with bleach so that it would destroy infectious protein even across a gas barrier such as an air bubble. Bert Pressman ___ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com