[OGD] survey - rare species / Minnesota

2005-05-07 Thread viateur . boutot
Minnesota County Biological Survey. ...
started in 1987, ... an effort to identify and preserve rare plant and 
animal species around the state. Researchers will focus on Hubbard County 
this summer.
...
The rare ram's head orchid has been found in the northern part of the 
state, including in Hubbard County and Itasca State Park. The bog 
adder's-mouth orchid is only found in Minnesota (within the 48 contiguous 
states), and even then only in Itasca State Park and near Bemidji.
...
the main goals for the survey are to minimize the impact of development on 
native species and habitats and prioritize conservation planning.
...
When the survey is complete, which may take anywhere from one summer to two 
years, the DNR [Department of Natural Resources] will provide the county 
with a GIS map of rare species, and work with the county on conservation 
efforts.

source : http://www.parkrapidsenterprise.com/article.cfm?Article_ID=3604
***
Regards,
Viateur 

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[OGD] sterilizing pots

2005-05-07 Thread viateur . boutot
Bert [Pressman] wrote:
Used pots, soaked in chlorine  solution over night come out entirely 
clean.  Moss, algae, debris etc.  simply disappear...

1) You refer to plastic pots, right ?
2) Do you have references (real studies in the literature) that support 
your assertion that pots only need to be cleaned with water after having 
been soaked in a chlorine solution ?

3) What do you think of the following : Clean the plastic pots before 
treating them with Clorox. Soil and organic matter impair the viricidal 
properties of Clorox. (AOS Bulletin, December 1972, p. 1100.) ?

***
Regards,
Viateur 

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[OGD] Cypripedum and mycorrhizae

2005-05-07 Thread Peter\(Can\) Croezen



Harvey who 
asked:

I am 
wondering if anyone knows if this fungus is only needed for germination 
or whether its presence in the substrate is also necessary for 
successful culture of adult plants. 

The short answer is that fungi are there for both. The fungi 
are usually present in the 
substrate; if not,they will get there very 
soon and form that symbiotic relationship with 

the seeds and the seedlings,even if the substrate is 
in pots; in an orchid room; inside 

your home.

Many growersenrich their favorite Cypripedium 
substrate with soils (peat) taken from 
the natural habitat of the species, hoping to bring in with that soilthe fungus 
symbiotic
with the species. 

The roots of 
mature Cypripedium are usually heavily colonized by 
symbiotic
fungi compared 
to the roots of many other orchid genera.I have examined 
Cypripedium
root 
cellsin Spring, Summer and Fall and found that more often than not they 
contain 
an abundance of 
cells containingpartly "consumed"pelotons, but rarely live 
pelotons 
in newly 
infected cells, possibly indicating that over the period of one 
year the fungus is 
active within 
a very small window. Whether that is in the fall or spring, I do 
not know.

What is important to note is that Cypripediums at a 
given time(s) in the year do use orchid 
mycorrhiza as their 
nutrient source.

I hope this helps,
Peter


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[OGD] Re: Virus and a Chuckle, natural hybrids

2005-05-07 Thread Carlos Antonio Akselrud de Gouveia
A good choice to sterilize things is to use a saturated solution (you 
put the salt untill it starts to deposit in the bottom of the solution) 
of Na3PO4. It will give you a pH of about 13, what is enough to kill 
virus and everething. Put your tools in the solution for at least 10 
minutes, wash them, and its ready. Sodium triphosphate is easy to find 
in chemical products stores.

About natural hybrids, when you make an hybrid, you are sure you have, 
for instance, C. skinnerii x C. arantiaca, only once of the both 
parents. When nature coss, you can have several crosses made. We have in 
Rio de Janeiro C. xvenosa = C. forbesii x. C. harrisoniana, and you find 
xvenosa very close to forbesii (only with some color difference) and  
xvenosa almost harrisoniana (some labelum difference), depending of how 
close they are of forbesii or harrisoniana population. None of them are 
pure, primary hybrids of C. forbesii and C. harrisoniana, and when you 
make the cross, you never have plants with the characteristics that you 
find in the wild plants.

--
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Re: [OGD] sterilizing pots

2005-05-07 Thread Ray



I have used chlorine bleach for years to clean pots - plastic 
and clay - and clay media before reuse, and have never seen the _expression_ 
of any virus infection in anything. (I don't doubt that they're present, 
just haven't seen "color break" or leaf blotching, etc.).

As to the AOS article reference, logically, if you can remove 
as much detritus as possible from the pot before the treatment, it will be a 
faster treatment, but even if you don't, a longer soak will still do the 
trick. If the author saw incomplete disinfection, he simply didn't treat 
long enough.

Likewise, if you immerse a DRY clay pot or LECA, it will 
absorb the undiluted solution and the cleansing will go faster than if you do so 
with a wet pot, in which case the chlorine will have to diffuse into the 
preexisting pockets of liquid.
Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.comPlants, Supplies, 
Artwork, Books and Lots of Free Info!



  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  To: orchids@orchidguide.com 
  Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 8:51 
AM
  Subject: [OGD] sterilizing pots
  Bert [Pressman] wrote:"Used pots, soaked in 
  chlorine solution over night come out entirely clean. Moss, 
  algae, debris etc. simply disappear..."1) You refer to plastic 
  pots, right ?2) Do you have references ("real studies in the 
  literature") that support your assertion that pots only need to be cleaned 
  with water after having been soaked in a chlorine solution ?3) 
  What do you think of the following : "Clean the plastic pots before 
  treating them with Clorox. Soil and organic matter impair the viricidal 
  properties of Clorox." (AOS Bulletin, December 1972, p. 1100.) 
  ?***Regards,Viateur 
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[OGD] RE: Cyp. acaule and micorrhyzal fungi

2005-05-07 Thread K Barrett
I am wondering if anyone knows if this fungus is only needed for 
germination
or whether its presence in the substrate is also necessary for successful
culture of adult plants.

Harvey Brenneise
The OrchidSafari archives have 2 articles touching on this subject, and I 
believe we'll be talking a bit more about roots on Wed the 12th.

The articles are from March and June (I think), 2003 (I know).  Scroll down 
to find one on Cyps and one on mycorrhiza/roots

Have a look: http://www.geocities.com/brassia.geo/OSTA.html
K Barrett
denmother
OrchidSafari - 2 sites - http://www.orchidsafari.org and as listed above.
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[OGD] Re: Orchids Digest, Vol 7, Issue 244 Cyp acaule and mycorrhyzal fungi

2005-05-07 Thread WNeptune

In a message dated 5/7/05 6:03:26 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 I am wondering if anyone knows if this fungus is only needed for 
germination 
or whether its presence in the substrate is also necessary for successful 
culture of adult plants. 

Thanks! 

Harvey Brenneise 

Although the fungus appears to be essential for germination of seeds in 
nature, once there are roots, they are infected and the fungus is no longer 
needed 
in the substrate for growth and flowering. Scott Durkee, of the VT Ladyslipper 
Farm, has also demonstrated that one can germinate this species  and  even 
grow it to flowering in flask without the fungus.

Wilford Neptune


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[OGD] Re:OGD V7 #245 Chlorine as Disinfectant

2005-05-07 Thread BCPRESS



Viateur asks if I refer to plastic 
pots. Wrong! When I write of clay pots, that is a defined 
material. There are lots of plastics and I can't generalize for 
all,although in my experience all the various plasticpots that I 
have actually exposed to chlorine bleach have been chemicallyinert 
towardsit. Ioften clean my heavy plastic baskets with chlorine 
and it works fine. I do not recall coming across specific comments in the 
literature about the effectiveness of a water wash in removing residual bleach 
chlorine and salts from [clay] pots well enough to prevent interference with 
orchid growth. Has Viateur found any references to the contrary?I 
have used this procedure for the past 20 years without problems. My good 
friend Ray concurs with the effectiveness of the procedure [OGD V7 #245]. 
Perhaps I can usemy postin the OGD as a future reference for those 
who require them.
Plastic pots are permeated less well by 
liquid and I would suppose they are even less injurious to plant growth after 
chlorine treatmentfollowed by a water rinse, provided the plastic is of a 
type not affected by bleach.
As for the advantages ofhose washing 
the pots before soaking in chlorine, it would be prudent for keeping the soaking 
bath from becoming laden with soil debris [chlorine does not react with silica], 
but not absolutely necessary for viricidal effectiveness. What references 
to the contrary are cited in AOS Bulletin 
Dec 1972, p 1100?
As for trisodium phosphate [TSP] as a 
viricide, this is ridiculous on its face. Despite the fact that it was suggested 
in an old Orchid Bulletin, it does nothing that any other way of achieving a pH 
of 13 would not accomplish, otherwise we wouldexpect removing phosphate 
from our fertilizers to promote orchid growth. For those who are 
stubbornly inclined to go this route, I suggest a teaspoon of common lye to a 
quart of water [more precisely 4 g lye/L] as a cheaper way of producing an 
alkaline cauterizing solution, pH 13, without the bells and whistles. But it 
would not solublize debris as does chlorine and it is so much slower in effect 
that the danger of insufficient treatment becomes a factor.It would also 
be more difficult to removecompletely from porous clay pots 
afterwards.Note that some chlorine gas is always in equilibrium with 
bleach so that it would destroy infectious protein even across a gas barrier 
such as an air bubble. Bert Pressman
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