Re: How to clean hot-shoe flash contacts?

[Bruce Walker]

Radio Shack pulled out of Canada and the stores got sold to a group
called The Source. They don't carry as much DIY/repair stuff anymore
and only have one rebranded generic cleaner product.

I got my Caig supply at a musical equipment chain here, Long and
McQuade. I originally bought it to service my Mackie audio mixer.


On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 3:25 AM, Joseph McAllister  wrote:
> I've been using Craig Laboratory cleaners for 30 years. Every connector I 
> mate is first cleaned with their RED contact cleaner formula, then lubed with 
> their Blue contact preservative formula (or vice versa). Came with coarse 
> plastic applicators for doing grody RCA connectors. Also used it on ANY 
> (plain or gold) connectors in or on my cameras, computers, and automobiles. 
> Except for forgotten batteries in various household and medical appliances, I 
> never have any connectivity problems.
>
> Betcha Radio Shack still carries it. But no more than 10 cent bets, please.
>
> On Nov 13, 2012, at 09:29 , Bruce Walker wrote:
>
>> I use an electronic contact cleaner spray which I apply with a Q-tip.
>> Hosa D5S-6 DeoxIT, by Caig Laboratories.
>>
>> Dirty hotshoe contacts (and battery contacts too; don't forget those)
>> are the source of practically all my flash misfires. It similarly
>> affects the radio trigger devices.
>>
>> I'd be leery of using isopropanol though. Better than nothing, but I
>> have found it may leave a non-conductive residue.
>
>
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Re: How to clean hot-shoe flash contacts?

[Joseph McAllister]

I've been using Craig Laboratory cleaners for 30 years. Every connector I mate 
is first cleaned with their RED contact cleaner formula, then lubed with their 
Blue contact preservative formula (or vice versa). Came with coarse plastic 
applicators for doing grody RCA connectors. Also used it on ANY (plain or gold) 
connectors in or on my cameras, computers, and automobiles. Except for 
forgotten batteries in various household and medical appliances, I never have 
any connectivity problems.

Betcha Radio Shack still carries it. But no more than 10 cent bets, please.

On Nov 13, 2012, at 09:29 , Bruce Walker wrote:

> I use an electronic contact cleaner spray which I apply with a Q-tip.
> Hosa D5S-6 DeoxIT, by Caig Laboratories.
> 
> Dirty hotshoe contacts (and battery contacts too; don't forget those)
> are the source of practically all my flash misfires. It similarly
> affects the radio trigger devices.
> 
> I'd be leery of using isopropanol though. Better than nothing, but I
> have found it may leave a non-conductive residue.


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Re: How to clean hot-shoe flash contacts?

[Rob Studdert]

I actually have used a small cotton swab with the tip dipped in Brasso
to restore operation to badly corroded contacts, it can be a bit messy
to clean up if it gets in crevices but if done carefully it removes
the oxides without doing too much damage.



On 14 November 2012 08:48, Bruce Walker  wrote:
> A wire-wheel on an electric drill is pretty effective too.
>
> On Tue, Nov 13, 2012 at 4:25 PM, David Savage  wrote:
>> I use a small piece of a Scotch-brite pad:
>>
>> 
>>
>> DS
>>
>> On 14 November 2012 01:09, Igor Roshchin  wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> In the recent past, my flash (Metz AF58-1) in combination with K-7
>>> developed a problem. In some cases, I do not get the flash-ready
>>> confirmation symbol in the viewfinder. In other cases, even if I do
>>> get that confirmation at first, the flash (in PTTL mode) goes off full
>>> capacity, as if the PTTL did not work, yielding extremely overlit
>>> images. In those cases, often, on the subsequent shots, there is
>>> no flash confirmation symbol.
>>>
>>> All those problems can be fixed by tweaking the hotshoe in the socket
>>> (sliding it slightly in or out), but it takes a few times to find the
>>> "right" position.
>>> I am thinking if this can be fixed by cleaning the contacts.
>>>
>>> What are the options of cleaning the contacts besides the obvious of
>>> using a q-tip soaked in isopropanol?
>>>
>>> Any other thoughts on what else might be causing such hot-shoe issues?
>>>
>>> Igor
>>
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>
>
>
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Re: How to clean hot-shoe flash contacts?

[Bruce Walker]

A wire-wheel on an electric drill is pretty effective too.

On Tue, Nov 13, 2012 at 4:25 PM, David Savage  wrote:
> I use a small piece of a Scotch-brite pad:
>
> 
>
> DS
>
> On 14 November 2012 01:09, Igor Roshchin  wrote:
>>
>>
>> In the recent past, my flash (Metz AF58-1) in combination with K-7
>> developed a problem. In some cases, I do not get the flash-ready
>> confirmation symbol in the viewfinder. In other cases, even if I do
>> get that confirmation at first, the flash (in PTTL mode) goes off full
>> capacity, as if the PTTL did not work, yielding extremely overlit
>> images. In those cases, often, on the subsequent shots, there is
>> no flash confirmation symbol.
>>
>> All those problems can be fixed by tweaking the hotshoe in the socket
>> (sliding it slightly in or out), but it takes a few times to find the
>> "right" position.
>> I am thinking if this can be fixed by cleaning the contacts.
>>
>> What are the options of cleaning the contacts besides the obvious of
>> using a q-tip soaked in isopropanol?
>>
>> Any other thoughts on what else might be causing such hot-shoe issues?
>>
>> Igor
>
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Re: How to clean hot-shoe flash contacts?

[David Savage]

I use a small piece of a Scotch-brite pad:



DS

On 14 November 2012 01:09, Igor Roshchin  wrote:
>
>
> In the recent past, my flash (Metz AF58-1) in combination with K-7
> developed a problem. In some cases, I do not get the flash-ready
> confirmation symbol in the viewfinder. In other cases, even if I do
> get that confirmation at first, the flash (in PTTL mode) goes off full
> capacity, as if the PTTL did not work, yielding extremely overlit
> images. In those cases, often, on the subsequent shots, there is
> no flash confirmation symbol.
>
> All those problems can be fixed by tweaking the hotshoe in the socket
> (sliding it slightly in or out), but it takes a few times to find the
> "right" position.
> I am thinking if this can be fixed by cleaning the contacts.
>
> What are the options of cleaning the contacts besides the obvious of
> using a q-tip soaked in isopropanol?
>
> Any other thoughts on what else might be causing such hot-shoe issues?
>
> Igor

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RE: How to clean hot-shoe flash contacts?

[John Sessoms]

From: Igor Roshchin

In the recent past, my flash (Metz AF58-1) in combination with K-7
developed a problem. In some cases, I do not get the flash-ready
confirmation symbol in the viewfinder. In other cases, even if I do
get that confirmation at first, the flash (in PTTL mode) goes off full
capacity, as if the PTTL did not work, yielding extremely overlit
images. In those cases, often, on the subsequent shots, there is
no flash confirmation symbol.

All those problems can be fixed by tweaking the hotshoe in the socket
(sliding it slightly in or out), but it takes a few times to find the
"right" position.
I am thinking if this can be fixed by cleaning the contacts.

What are the options of cleaning the contacts besides the obvious of
using a q-tip soaked in isopropanol?

Any other thoughts on what else might be causing such hot-shoe issues?

Igor


Try rubbing them with a pencil eraser.

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Re: How to clean hot-shoe flash contacts?

[Bruce Walker]

Igor, thanks. I was assuming that the majority of folks on the list
would be in possession of rubbing alcohol rather then spectroscopic
grade. :-)

But in any event, part of what makes contact cleaner a better idea
than either pure or impure isopropyl is what it _does_ leave on the
surfaces: anti-oxidant lubricant. That prevents the contact surfaces
from re-oxidizing right away.


On Tue, Nov 13, 2012 at 1:01 PM, Igor Roshchin  wrote:
>
> Bruce,
>
> Thank you. An electronic contact cleaner spray might be a good idea.
> I didn't think about it.
>
> Just a quick comment about isopropanol.
> You brought up an important point that can be overseen often.
> However, for the purpose of "full disclosure", err. information:
> The amount of residue left behind by an evaporating solvent depends
> on the solvent, but even more depends on the purity of the solvent.
> The 70% isopropanol that is sold at a pharmacy as "rubbing alcohol"
> probably has plenty of impurities that don't evaporate.
>
> High purity (e.g. spectroscopic grade) solvents leave very small residue
> (between 1ppb and 1ppm, depending on the solvent).
> Isopropanol of high purity grades is frequently used for cleaning
> Ultra-high-vacuum (UHV) components for the reason that it leaves very
> small amount of residue on the surface, and also that it can be removed by
> baking the surface. Methanol that is used for the same purpose, while
> being more volatile overall, IIRC, may leave a bit more impurities behind.
>
> Many typical wafer cleaning procedures include IPA (isopropanol) or
> methanol as the last step, - to remove residues left by other solvents,
> e.g. acetone.
>
>
> Igor
>
>
>
> Tue Nov 13 12:29:00 EST 2012
> Bruce Walker wrote:
>
> I use an electronic contact cleaner spray which I apply with a Q-tip.
> Hosa D5S-6 DeoxIT, by Caig Laboratories.
>
> Dirty hotshoe contacts (and battery contacts too; don't forget those)
> are the source of practically all my flash misfires. It similarly
> affects the radio trigger devices.
>
> I'd be leery of using isopropanol though. Better than nothing, but I
> have found it may leave a non-conductive residue.
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 13, 2012 at 12:09 PM, Igor Roshchin 
> wrote:
>>
>>
>> In the recent past, my flash (Metz AF58-1) in combination with K-7
>> developed a problem. In some cases, I do not get the flash-ready
>> confirmation symbol in the viewfinder. In other cases, even if I do
>> get that confirmation at first, the flash (in PTTL mode) goes off full
>> capacity, as if the PTTL did not work, yielding extremely overlit
>> images. In those cases, often, on the subsequent shots, there is
>> no flash confirmation symbol.
>>
>> All those problems can be fixed by tweaking the hotshoe in the socket
>> (sliding it slightly in or out), but it takes a few times to find the
>> "right" position.
>> I am thinking if this can be fixed by cleaning the contacts.
>>
>> What are the options of cleaning the contacts besides the obvious of
>> using a q-tip soaked in isopropanol?
>>
>> Any other thoughts on what else might be causing such hot-shoe issues?
>>
>> Igor
>
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Re: How to clean hot-shoe flash contacts?

[Igor Roshchin]

Bruce, 

Thank you. An electronic contact cleaner spray might be a good idea.
I didn't think about it.

Just a quick comment about isopropanol. 
You brought up an important point that can be overseen often.
However, for the purpose of "full disclosure", err. information: 
The amount of residue left behind by an evaporating solvent depends 
on the solvent, but even more depends on the purity of the solvent. 
The 70% isopropanol that is sold at a pharmacy as "rubbing alcohol" 
probably has plenty of impurities that don't evaporate.  

High purity (e.g. spectroscopic grade) solvents leave very small residue
(between 1ppb and 1ppm, depending on the solvent).
Isopropanol of high purity grades is frequently used for cleaning 
Ultra-high-vacuum (UHV) components for the reason that it leaves very
small amount of residue on the surface, and also that it can be removed by
baking the surface. Methanol that is used for the same purpose, while 
being more volatile overall, IIRC, may leave a bit more impurities behind.

Many typical wafer cleaning procedures include IPA (isopropanol) or
methanol as the last step, - to remove residues left by other solvents,
e.g. acetone.


Igor



Tue Nov 13 12:29:00 EST 2012
Bruce Walker wrote:

I use an electronic contact cleaner spray which I apply with a Q-tip.
Hosa D5S-6 DeoxIT, by Caig Laboratories.

Dirty hotshoe contacts (and battery contacts too; don't forget those)
are the source of practically all my flash misfires. It similarly
affects the radio trigger devices.

I'd be leery of using isopropanol though. Better than nothing, but I
have found it may leave a non-conductive residue.


On Tue, Nov 13, 2012 at 12:09 PM, Igor Roshchin 
wrote:
>
>
> In the recent past, my flash (Metz AF58-1) in combination with K-7
> developed a problem. In some cases, I do not get the flash-ready
> confirmation symbol in the viewfinder. In other cases, even if I do
> get that confirmation at first, the flash (in PTTL mode) goes off full
> capacity, as if the PTTL did not work, yielding extremely overlit
> images. In those cases, often, on the subsequent shots, there is
> no flash confirmation symbol.
>
> All those problems can be fixed by tweaking the hotshoe in the socket
> (sliding it slightly in or out), but it takes a few times to find the
> "right" position.
> I am thinking if this can be fixed by cleaning the contacts.
>
> What are the options of cleaning the contacts besides the obvious of
> using a q-tip soaked in isopropanol?
>
> Any other thoughts on what else might be causing such hot-shoe issues?
>
> Igor

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Re: How to clean hot-shoe flash contacts?

[William Robb]

On 13/11/2012 11:09 AM, Igor Roshchin wrote:



In the recent past, my flash (Metz AF58-1) in combination with K-7
developed a problem. In some cases, I do not get the flash-ready
confirmation symbol in the viewfinder. In other cases, even if I do
get that confirmation at first, the flash (in PTTL mode) goes off full
capacity, as if the PTTL did not work, yielding extremely overlit
images. In those cases, often, on the subsequent shots, there is
no flash confirmation symbol.

All those problems can be fixed by tweaking the hotshoe in the socket
(sliding it slightly in or out), but it takes a few times to find the
"right" position.
I am thinking if this can be fixed by cleaning the contacts.

What are the options of cleaning the contacts besides the obvious of
using a q-tip soaked in isopropanol?

Any other thoughts on what else might be causing such hot-shoe issues?

Igor



I've always used a pencil eraser for cleaning contacts. It seems to work.

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Re: How to clean hot-shoe flash contacts?

[Bruce Walker]

I use an electronic contact cleaner spray which I apply with a Q-tip.
Hosa D5S-6 DeoxIT, by Caig Laboratories.

Dirty hotshoe contacts (and battery contacts too; don't forget those)
are the source of practically all my flash misfires. It similarly
affects the radio trigger devices.

I'd be leery of using isopropanol though. Better than nothing, but I
have found it may leave a non-conductive residue.


On Tue, Nov 13, 2012 at 12:09 PM, Igor Roshchin  wrote:
>
>
> In the recent past, my flash (Metz AF58-1) in combination with K-7
> developed a problem. In some cases, I do not get the flash-ready
> confirmation symbol in the viewfinder. In other cases, even if I do
> get that confirmation at first, the flash (in PTTL mode) goes off full
> capacity, as if the PTTL did not work, yielding extremely overlit
> images. In those cases, often, on the subsequent shots, there is
> no flash confirmation symbol.
>
> All those problems can be fixed by tweaking the hotshoe in the socket
> (sliding it slightly in or out), but it takes a few times to find the
> "right" position.
> I am thinking if this can be fixed by cleaning the contacts.
>
> What are the options of cleaning the contacts besides the obvious of
> using a q-tip soaked in isopropanol?
>
> Any other thoughts on what else might be causing such hot-shoe issues?
>
> Igor
>
>
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How to clean hot-shoe flash contacts?

[Igor Roshchin]

In the recent past, my flash (Metz AF58-1) in combination with K-7
developed a problem. In some cases, I do not get the flash-ready 
confirmation symbol in the viewfinder. In other cases, even if I do 
get that confirmation at first, the flash (in PTTL mode) goes off full 
capacity, as if the PTTL did not work, yielding extremely overlit
images. In those cases, often, on the subsequent shots, there is
no flash confirmation symbol.

All those problems can be fixed by tweaking the hotshoe in the socket
(sliding it slightly in or out), but it takes a few times to find the
"right" position.
I am thinking if this can be fixed by cleaning the contacts.

What are the options of cleaning the contacts besides the obvious of
using a q-tip soaked in isopropanol?

Any other thoughts on what else might be causing such hot-shoe issues?

Igor


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