Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[John]

I've never been an active plane spotter, but I've been goofy over airplanes for 
as long as I can remember. There was a time when I knew ALL of the military 
airplanes & who flew them. (nation, service branch, ...)


When I was a child (around 1955 or so) the Air Force still put on flying 
demonstrations on Memorial Day.


They would fly formations of aircraft around the state and there must have been 
some kind of press release giving a schedule of when they would be passing over 
certain points because I remember knowing what time & which direction to look 
for them.


Around here it was mostly C-47s & C-119 Flying Boxcars (because Ft Bragg & the 
82nd). I don't think the Air Force started using C-130s until after the DoD 
phased out those aerial power demonstrations.


And what looked like B-29 bombers, which I now think might have been KB-50 
tanker aircraft and KC-97 Stratotankers along with C-97 Stratofreighters (all 
developed from the B-29 air frame).


I also remember formations of propeller driven fighters, probably P-51s, but 
might have included A-1 Skyraiders. I believe the Air Force Reserve still had a 
few P-51s in the mid-50s.


The other thing I remember is B-52 bombers coming in low over US 70 east of 
Goldsboro, NC (landing at Seymour Johnson AFB).


They'd have been about a mile from their touchdown point on the runway and they 
are *HUGE* when you see them up close only a couple hundred feet off the ground.


The impression from seeing them in the air like that is even more dramatic than 
when you see them on the ground when they're on static display at an AFB open house.


And just a bit farther down the road you passed by Cherry Point and there were 
often various USMC or Navy aircraft passing low over the highway on their way to 
the runway (4,000 ft from the threshold on 5R).


The other one that is amazing to see in the air from that vantage point (close 
up under the flight path when they're landing) is the C5 Galaxy, but they 
weren't around when I was a child; first introduced in 1970.



On 8/19/2021 20:49:40, jco...@iinet.net.au wrote:

I remember plane-spotting for Vampires and Venoms flying out of the FAA base in 
Hampshire - and Spitfires (Mk19) were
the first I ticked off in my spotter's book.
First actual air show I went to was at Biggin Hill: the sight of Spitfires 
coming up out of the valley in a low pass was
something else!


John in Brisbane



-Original Message-
From: Steve Cottrell 
Sent: Friday, 20 August 2021 6:10 AM
To: pentax list 
Subject: Re: ADVICE PLEASE

Holy Moses!

Cot

On 19 Aug 2021, at 19:41, John  wrote:

I remember when they flew the Grumman F-11 Tiger.
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[John Francis]

On Fri, Aug 20, 2021 at 10:49:40AM +1000, jco...@iinet.net.au wrote:
> First actual air show I went to was at Biggin Hill: the sight of Spitfires 
> coming up out of the valley in a low pass was
> something else!

Biggin Hill was about 10 miles from where I grew up; we were almost due east of 
the airfield (over mostly open country), so whenever Biggin Hill had an airshow 
there was a good chance we'd see interesting aircraft flying overhead.

A friend of mine flew out of Biggin Hill occasionally.  He took me up a couple 
of times.  The first time he (probably quite illegally) buzzed our house at a 
fairly low level.  The second time we popped across the channel to Le Touquet 
for lunch. That was an interesting flight; on the way back the fuel gauge 
suddenly dropped to zero halfway across the channel. Not only that - the radio 
cut out, too, which made it rather tricky to talk to the control tower at Lydd. 
 Fortunately the problem was a part of the wiring harness coming loose; it took 
a technician at Lydd only a few minutes to find and fix the problem.  Or course 
without a radio it was a little awkward getting permission to land ...
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RE: ADVICE PLEASE

[jcoyle]

I remember plane-spotting for Vampires and Venoms flying out of the FAA base in 
Hampshire - and Spitfires (Mk19) were
the first I ticked off in my spotter's book.
First actual air show I went to was at Biggin Hill: the sight of Spitfires 
coming up out of the valley in a low pass was
something else!


John in Brisbane



-Original Message-
From: Steve Cottrell  
Sent: Friday, 20 August 2021 6:10 AM
To: pentax list 
Subject: Re: ADVICE PLEASE

Holy Moses!

Cot

On 19 Aug 2021, at 19:41, John  wrote:

I remember when they flew the Grumman F-11 Tiger.
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[Rick Womer]

He just has to wing it.

> On Aug 19, 2021, at 4:23 PM, l...@red4est.com wrote:
> 
> Yeah, gotta give him props
> 
> On August 19, 2021 1:09:59 PM PDT, Steve Cottrell  wrote:
>> Holy Moses!
>> 
>> Cot
>> 
>> On 19 Aug 2021, at 19:41, John  wrote:
>> 
>> I remember when they flew the Grumman F-11 Tiger.
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[lrc]

Yeah, gotta give him props

On August 19, 2021 1:09:59 PM PDT, Steve Cottrell  wrote:
>Holy Moses!
>
>Cot
>
>On 19 Aug 2021, at 19:41, John  wrote:
>
>I remember when they flew the Grumman F-11 Tiger.
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[Steve Cottrell]

Holy Moses!

Cot

On 19 Aug 2021, at 19:41, John  wrote:

I remember when they flew the Grumman F-11 Tiger.
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE (WRAP UP?)

[John]

That's the first thing you need to do, get in as close as you legally & safely 
can.

Manual focus, hyper-focal distance (or whatever is the correct term for that 
thing where you pre-set the focus so DOF goes from here to infinity), shutter 
speed around 1/125 sec to get an acceptable propeller blur, crank the ISO to get 
a decent exposure with the chosen combination of aperture & shutter speed, pan 
so the rest of the airframe is NOT too blurred & shoot in bursts.


If you get one exposure as the plane goes past it's 99% likely it's not going to 
be good enough. If you get 5-10 exposures on a single pass, it's 99% likely that 
at least one of them will be.


I've shot some air-shows and while I didn't get many good images, that's the 
combination that seemed to produce the *most* acceptable images.


On 8/18/2021 00:20:39, Alan C wrote:

Thanks all. This image pretty well sums it up.

And some stunt planes: 
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157705985048831/


The planes are just too distant - too small - out of range. A bit like trying to 
photograph an eagle in flight at 300m!


I used TAV 1000sec,  f8 exclusively.  Tried single, 5 point & 11 point focusing. 
I started by focusing on the moon. In all auto focus modes the camera just 
couldn't lock on to the planes. There was no lens creep. Didn't try panning.


Today is the first day of the 4 day competition. Yesterday was official practice 
but spectators could not actually get access to the airfield. From today, 
limited access will be possible subject to Covid restrictions. There is a large 
rooftop area above the terminal which would will be perfect, otherwise I'll just 
have to find a suitable place.


Alan C
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[John]

I remember when they flew the Grumman F-11 Tiger.

On 8/17/2021 16:25:33, Steve Cottrell wrote:

Remember when they were F4 Phantoms? ;-)


On 17 Aug 2021, at 21:17, Larry Colen  wrote:

It looks like I’d shoot at f/8 and either 1/800 or 1/1000 in TAv mode when they 
were close, using a K-3 and Sigma 50-500:
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157677323484307/
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[John]

On 8/17/2021 15:39:09, John Francis wrote:

On Tue, Aug 17, 2021 at 07:41:12PM +0200, Alan C wrote:

The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in Phalaborwa with
plenty of Photographic opportunities. I've tried everything but just don't
seem to be able to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I get close with
MF but AF.S?? AF.C are hopeless. Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps
screw drive is too slow? I've tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the
Sigma 170-500 DG @ 500mm. I can focus just fine on the quarter moon!


Are you sure it's focus that is your problem?  A plane flying at 250mph
(which is what the faster aerobatic planes seem to be capable of) will
move over a foot in 1/250 of a second - more than enough to blur the shot.
If you haven't had a lot of practice panning to keep your target relatively
stationary in the viewfinder you're going to see quite a few fuzzy shots.

While you can elimnate much of the motion with higher shutter speeds you
then end up with shots that look strange because the propellers appear to
be almost stationary (e.g. http://www.panix.com/~johnf/temp/FatAlbert.jpg)
--


I find 1/125 is about the fastest shutter speed I can use for propeller driven 
aircraft and still get sufficient propeller blur it doesn't look wrong.





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Re: ADVICE PLEASE (WRAP UP?)

[Larry Colen]

> On Aug 18, 2021, at 8:27 AM, Daniel J. Matyola  wrote:
> 
> Interesting set, and some very fine shots there.

Thank you, but Alan just forwarded the link I included in my reply, perhaps it 
was in his copy/paste buffer rather than his own photos.


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Re: ADVICE PLEASE (WRAP UP?)

[Daniel J. Matyola]

Interesting set, and some very fine shots there.

Dan Matyola
*https://tinyurl.com/DJM-Pentax-Gallery
*



On Wed, Aug 18, 2021 at 12:20 AM Alan C  wrote:

> Thanks all. This image pretty well sums it up.
>
> And some stunt planes:
> https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157705985048831/
>
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE (WRAP UP?)

[ann sanfedele]

THe way this thread has developed it looked like the link to the red 
planes was from Alan.. I've only skimmed it but I finally realised that 
Larry was sending examples of his work to Alan with the setting details..


then I saw "ellarsee' In the link.. before I said to Alan that it look 
liked he nailed several of them in terms of sharpness and geometry..

hehe..

ann


On 8/18/2021 1:22 AM, Alan C wrote:

Thanks Larry.

Interesting Eagles. There are a couple of Pitts here. Some other very 
fast flashy looking jobs too! I'll need to get a programme to find out 
what they all are.


I'll get it right over the next couple of days. Probably the last 
chance I'll get of seeing something like this.   Ellies are much easier!


Alan C

On 18-Aug-21 06:54 AM, Larry Colen wrote:



On Aug 17, 2021, at 9:20 PM, Alan C  wrote:

Thanks all. This image pretty well sums it up.

And some stunt planes: 
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157705985048831/


The planes are just too distant - too small - out of range. A bit 
like trying to photograph an eagle in flight at 300m!

There’s a really good chance that they are eagles:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aviat_Eagle


I used TAV 1000sec,  f8 exclusively. Tried single, 5 point & 11 
point focusing. I started by focusing on the moon. In all auto focus 
modes the camera just couldn't lock on to the planes. There was no 
lens creep. Didn't try panning.

Yeah, sounds like you need to go full manual to get a chance at focus.

If it was easy, anybody could do it.


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Re: ADVICE PLEASE (WRAP UP?)

[Alan C]

Thanks Larry.

Interesting Eagles. There are a couple of Pitts here. Some other very 
fast flashy looking jobs too! I'll need to get a programme to find out 
what they all are.


I'll get it right over the next couple of days. Probably the last chance 
I'll get of seeing something like this.   Ellies are much easier!


Alan C

On 18-Aug-21 06:54 AM, Larry Colen wrote:



On Aug 17, 2021, at 9:20 PM, Alan C  wrote:

Thanks all. This image pretty well sums it up.

And some stunt planes: 
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157705985048831/

The planes are just too distant - too small - out of range. A bit like trying 
to photograph an eagle in flight at 300m!

There’s a really good chance that they are eagles:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aviat_Eagle



I used TAV 1000sec,  f8 exclusively.  Tried single, 5 point & 11 point 
focusing. I started by focusing on the moon. In all auto focus modes the camera 
just couldn't lock on to the planes. There was no lens creep. Didn't try panning.

Yeah, sounds like you need to go full manual to get a chance at focus.

If it was easy, anybody could do it.


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l...@red4est.com


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Re: ADVICE PLEASE (WRAP UP?)

[Larry Colen]

> On Aug 17, 2021, at 9:20 PM, Alan C  wrote:
> 
> Thanks all. This image pretty well sums it up.
> 
> And some stunt planes: 
> https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157705985048831/
> 
> The planes are just too distant - too small - out of range. A bit like trying 
> to photograph an eagle in flight at 300m!

There’s a really good chance that they are eagles:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aviat_Eagle


> 
> I used TAV 1000sec,  f8 exclusively.  Tried single, 5 point & 11 point 
> focusing. I started by focusing on the moon. In all auto focus modes the 
> camera just couldn't lock on to the planes. There was no lens creep. Didn't 
> try panning.

Yeah, sounds like you need to go full manual to get a chance at focus.

If it was easy, anybody could do it.


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l...@red4est.com


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Re: ADVICE PLEASE (WRAP UP?)

[Alan C]

Thanks all. This image pretty well sums it up.

And some stunt planes: 
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157705985048831/


The planes are just too distant - too small - out of range. A bit like 
trying to photograph an eagle in flight at 300m!


I used TAV 1000sec,  f8 exclusively.  Tried single, 5 point & 11 point 
focusing. I started by focusing on the moon. In all auto focus modes the 
camera just couldn't lock on to the planes. There was no lens creep. 
Didn't try panning.


Today is the first day of the 4 day competition. Yesterday was official 
practice but spectators could not actually get access to the airfield. 
From today, limited access will be possible subject to Covid 
restrictions. There is a large rooftop area above the terminal which 
would will be perfect, otherwise I'll just have to find a suitable place.


Alan C
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[Henk Terhell]

You may have to move your viewpoint of the camera along with the traject 
of the plane (as I usually do with birds and dragonflies)


Henk

Op 2021-08-17 om 19:41 schreef Alan C:
The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in 
Phalaborwa with plenty of Photographic opportunities. I've tried 
everything but just don't seem to be able to focus on fast moving 
aircraft at height. I get close with MF but AF.S  AF.C are hopeless. 
Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps screw drive is too slow? 
I've tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the Sigma 170-500 DG @ 
500mm. I can focus just fine on the quarter moon!


The Airfield is less than 1Km from my house! About 40 planes are 
taking part. The last event like this in Phalaborwa was about 25years 
ago so this is quite something. Of course there are several wet 
blankets complaining about the noise.



Alan C
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[Steve Cottrell]

Yep, Moffett Field air show - pretty sure they were Phantoms…….


On 17 Aug 2021, at 21:28, Larry Colen  wrote:

I think I remember seeing them at Moffett during that era, but it didn’t 
register that they were F4s.
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[Godfrey DiGiorgi]

I only ever use manual focus for these kinds of subjects and shooting 
situations. I pick the framed field I want to catch the car or plane in, find 
something static to set the focus, and then just follow and frame until the 
subject hits my "release the shutter" mark, which depends on the particular 
cameras response time. 

It just takes some practice. :)

G

> On Aug 17, 2021, at 10:41 AM, Alan C  wrote:
> 
> The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in Phalaborwa with 
> plenty of Photographic opportunities. I've tried everything but just don't 
> seem to be able to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I get close with 
> MF but AF.S  AF.C are hopeless. Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps 
> screw drive is too slow? I've tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the 
> Sigma 170-500 DG @ 500mm. I can focus just fine on the quarter moon!
> 
> The Airfield is less than 1Km from my house! About 40 planes are taking part. 
> The last event like this in Phalaborwa was about 25years ago so this is quite 
> something. Of course there are several wet blankets complaining about the 
> noise.
> 
> 
> Alan C
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[Larry Colen]

> On Aug 17, 2021, at 1:25 PM, Steve Cottrell  wrote:
> 
> Remember when they were F4 Phantoms? ;-)

I think I remember seeing them at Moffett during that era, but it didn’t 
register that they were F4s.


> 
> 
> On 17 Aug 2021, at 21:17, Larry Colen  wrote:
> 
> It looks like I’d shoot at f/8 and either 1/800 or 1/1000 in TAv mode when 
> they were close, using a K-3 and Sigma 50-500:
> https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157677323484307/
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[Steve Cottrell]

Remember when they were F4 Phantoms? ;-)


On 17 Aug 2021, at 21:17, Larry Colen  wrote:

It looks like I’d shoot at f/8 and either 1/800 or 1/1000 in TAv mode when they 
were close, using a K-3 and Sigma 50-500:
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157677323484307/
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[Larry Colen]

> On Aug 17, 2021, at 12:39 PM, John Francis  wrote:
> 
> On Tue, Aug 17, 2021 at 07:41:12PM +0200, Alan C wrote:
>> The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in Phalaborwa with
>> plenty of Photographic opportunities. I've tried everything but just don't
>> seem to be able to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I get close with
>> MF but AF.S?? AF.C are hopeless. Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps
>> screw drive is too slow? I've tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the
>> Sigma 170-500 DG @ 500mm. I can focus just fine on the quarter moon!
> 
> Are you sure it's focus that is your problem?  A plane flying at 250mph
> (which is what the faster aerobatic planes seem to be capable of) will
> move over a foot in 1/250 of a second - more than enough to blur the shot.
> If you haven't had a lot of practice panning to keep your target relatively
> stationary in the viewfinder you're going to see quite a few fuzzy shots.

That’s a very good point.  I would suggest shooting in TAv and really cranking 
up the shutter speed.  If that makes the blur go away, you can drop the shutter 
speed to recover a bit of noise and dynamic range.  By the same token, maybe 
not shoot wide open to get a bit more depth of field.

I had forgotten about my attempts a couple of years ago

Looking at some photos from a couple of years ago, the blue angels were 
practicing for the Salinas airshow and the pot farm I was working at was pretty 
much directly under their flight path, so when they were practicing I’d take a 
break and grab some photos.

It looks like I’d shoot at f/8 and either 1/800 or 1/1000 in TAv mode when they 
were close, using a K-3 and Sigma 50-500:
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157677323484307/

Also a DeHaviland Vampire:
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157704200196382/

And some stunt planes:
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157705985048831/

> 
> While you can elimnate much of the motion with higher shutter speeds you
> then end up with shots that look strange because the propellers appear to
> be almost stationary (e.g. http://www.panix.com/~johnf/temp/FatAlbert.jpg)
> --
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[Ralf R Radermacher]

Am 17.08.21 um 19:41 schrieb Alan C:

I've tried everything but
just don't seem to be able to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I
get close with MF but AF.S  AF.C are hopeless.


Could it be that you're pointing the camera upwards and your lens is
creeping out of focus?

Ralf

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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[John Francis]

On Tue, Aug 17, 2021 at 07:41:12PM +0200, Alan C wrote:
> The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in Phalaborwa with
> plenty of Photographic opportunities. I've tried everything but just don't
> seem to be able to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I get close with
> MF but AF.S?? AF.C are hopeless. Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps
> screw drive is too slow? I've tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the
> Sigma 170-500 DG @ 500mm. I can focus just fine on the quarter moon!

Are you sure it's focus that is your problem?  A plane flying at 250mph
(which is what the faster aerobatic planes seem to be capable of) will
move over a foot in 1/250 of a second - more than enough to blur the shot.
If you haven't had a lot of practice panning to keep your target relatively
stationary in the viewfinder you're going to see quite a few fuzzy shots.

While you can elimnate much of the motion with higher shutter speeds you
then end up with shots that look strange because the propellers appear to
be almost stationary (e.g. http://www.panix.com/~johnf/temp/FatAlbert.jpg)
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[ann sanfedele]

Maybe those planes get closer than one would expect... maybe that is why 
the wet blankets are complaining :-)


OK,   on a serious note  what Bob said makes sense to me.. and easier

ann

On 8/17/2021 2:50 PM, Bob Pdml wrote:

Surely the planes are at infinity or beyond? So why focus at all? Choose your 
focal length and aperture, set it manually to infinity focus, or the hyperfocal 
distance, and leave it. Or am I missing something?




On 17 Aug 2021, at 19:12, Larry Colen  wrote:

I have never found a single solution that works all of the time.  I would try 
A-9 AF-S set up in the center, also manual.  I agree with Godfrey’s suggestion 
of planning ahead. Pre-focus so that things are close to in focus, wait until 
the subject is close to in focus and within the 9 selected points.


On Aug 17, 2021, at 10:41 AM, Alan C  wrote:

The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in Phalaborwa with plenty 
of Photographic opportunities. I've tried everything but just don't seem to be able 
to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I get close with MF but AF.S  AF.C are 
hopeless. Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps screw drive is too slow? I've 
tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the Sigma 170-500 DG @ 500mm. I can 
focus just fine on the quarter moon!

The Airfield is less than 1Km from my house! About 40 planes are taking part. 
The last event like this in Phalaborwa was about 25years ago so this is quite 
something. Of course there are several wet blankets complaining about the noise.

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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[Bob Pdml]

Surely the planes are at infinity or beyond? So why focus at all? Choose your 
focal length and aperture, set it manually to infinity focus, or the hyperfocal 
distance, and leave it. Or am I missing something?



> On 17 Aug 2021, at 19:12, Larry Colen  wrote:
> 
> I have never found a single solution that works all of the time.  I would 
> try A-9 AF-S set up in the center, also manual.  I agree with Godfrey’s 
> suggestion of planning ahead. Pre-focus so that things are close to in focus, 
> wait until the subject is close to in focus and within the 9 selected points.
> 
>> On Aug 17, 2021, at 10:41 AM, Alan C  wrote:
>> 
>> The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in Phalaborwa with 
>> plenty of Photographic opportunities. I've tried everything but just don't 
>> seem to be able to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I get close with 
>> MF but AF.S  AF.C are hopeless. Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps 
>> screw drive is too slow? I've tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the 
>> Sigma 170-500 DG @ 500mm. I can focus just fine on the quarter moon!
>> 
>> The Airfield is less than 1Km from my house! About 40 planes are taking 
>> part. The last event like this in Phalaborwa was about 25years ago so this 
>> is quite something. Of course there are several wet blankets complaining 
>> about the noise.
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

[Larry Colen]

I have never found a single solution that works all of the time.  I would try 
A-9 AF-S set up in the center, also manual.  I agree with Godfrey’s suggestion 
of planning ahead. Pre-focus so that things are close to in focus, wait until 
the subject is close to in focus and within the 9 selected points.

> On Aug 17, 2021, at 10:41 AM, Alan C  wrote:
> 
> The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in Phalaborwa with 
> plenty of Photographic opportunities. I've tried everything but just don't 
> seem to be able to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I get close with 
> MF but AF.S  AF.C are hopeless. Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps 
> screw drive is too slow? I've tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the 
> Sigma 170-500 DG @ 500mm. I can focus just fine on the quarter moon!
> 
> The Airfield is less than 1Km from my house! About 40 planes are taking part. 
> The last event like this in Phalaborwa was about 25years ago so this is quite 
> something. Of course there are several wet blankets complaining about the 
> noise.
> 
> 
> Alan C
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> the directions.
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Re: Advice for Selling Gear

[Bill]

The marketplace on PentaxForums is a good place to sell if you can't sell
it here.

bill

On Mon., May 10, 2021, 7:31 p.m. Doug Franklin,  wrote:

> Howdy, folks,
>
> It's been several years since I was active in the group, but I've been
> superficially keeping up.  My inactivity is mainly because I haven't
> been doing as much shooting as I used to.  And that's why I'm posting
> today.  I have some gear I'd like to sell, and I'm seeking the advice of
> the group as to the best processes to use.  Most of the stuff I want to
> sell is older gear, that used to have collector value, but might not,
> anymore.  For example, I have an original SMCP 400/5.6
> auto-meter-but-nothing-else with case, and an LX with prisms.
> Definitely not mint. :)
>
> Thanks for your help!
> Doug Franklin
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Re: Advice at various stages

[Dale H. Cook]

At 10:23 AM 5/9/2018, Igor wrote:

>E.g. for the people who are experts of working with studio lights, - offer 
>trying to do a low-light photography of dancers or photography of stage 
>artists (musicians, dancers, actors) in ambient and better yet dynamic light.

I am far from an expert with studio lights, but I am going to try my hand at 
theatre photography. When the production for which I built the prop goes to 
dress I will try taking some photos.

Dale H. Cook, 50+ years as an SLR photographer,
Pentax K-70 w/ Pentax-DA 18-270mm lens, using
colored filters for B gravestone photography 


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Re: Advice at various stages

[Igor PDML-StR]

I think there is such a big multitude of parameters in photography that 
one can learn some new aspects even after many years of experience.
I am sure that even world-renown photographers can learn some new 
techniques in the areas of photography (genres) that they haven't worked 
in.
So, if a photographer feels he/she has hit a plateau, I would offer a 
challenge of getting into a new photography genre. Mastering it up would

probably provide some useful insights for other photographic activities.

E.g. for the people who are experts of working with studio lights, - 
offer trying to do a low-light photography of dancers or photography of 
stage artists (musicians, dancers, actors) in ambient and better yet 
dynamic light.
People who are experts in landscape photography, should try, e.g. 
"posed" portraits in studio settings.

And so on, - the multitude of areas is very large.

I remember that when I started photographing dancers some 13+ years ago, 
that was a considerable challenge that was very different from most things 
I've been photographing before. Even coming to photographing tango from 
swing dances brought some new challenges. (You know this, so, you will 
likely understand what I am trying to say here.)


When I started photographing ice skating a bit over a year ago, - I felt I 
had to figure out some new area. The experience in dance photography was 
helpful: after all, the ice-skaters also dance to music, but they do it 
differently. While (more than half of the time) the light is not as low as
in the dance avenues we both are familiar with, - the speed is much 
higher, and the area skaters cover is much larger, and the quality of 
light could be better - so some new challenges related to the optimal 
exposure arise in a new way. (And when the performance is of the 
theatrical "spot-light" type, - i.e. with the dark arena and 2-3 
spot-lights on the ice-skater(s), it becomes even more challenging.)


What's interesting is that after a few--months break between the events, I 
feel that I've forgotten some things that I've learned before, sometimes 
getting "D'oh!" moments.


So, the advice would be - trying new genres outside of one's "comfort 
zone".



Igor



Larry Colen Sat, 05 May 2018 10:01:16 -0700 wrote:

On that other timesuck, someone once asked what advice you’d give to 
dancers that have 1-3 years of experience.  People could most benefit from 
different advice at different stages of their learning process.  What 
advice would you give to people at different stages of learning 
photography?




Just the concept of “new can have many shades of meaning:
New to photography, or new to taking their photography seriously.

New to digital photography.

New to taking photos with a DSLR, rather than a camera.

The next step seems to be having learned the basics of manual controls and
processing raw files.

After that, is often studio lighting.

What about the photographer who has worked for many years and feels that 
their growth as a photographer has hit a plateau?


What advice would you give someone at any of these stages (or any others 
that come to mind) of their photography? What important things did you 
learn along the way that really helped?


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Re: Advice at various stages

[Ken Waller]

What advice would you give someone at any of these stages (or any others 
that come to mind) of their photography? What important things did you 
learn along the way that really helped?


Probably the most important thing I ever learned about photography is the 
value of light. I had been using a camera since I was in my single digits 
and it wasn't until my 5th decade that I was finally came to understand the 
value of quality light. Up to that point, if there was enough light, I would 
take the photo and live with the result. Over the years I was able to take a 
very few images that I thought were good, but I still had no idea about the 
quality of light and its impact on an image. After sitting through many 
slide reviews by several pro photographers, I started to see and understand 
the impact that good/great light has on the image.



Kenneth Waller
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/kennethwaller

- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Colen" 

To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" 
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2018 12:59 PM
Subject: Advice at various stages


On that other timesuck, someone once asked what advice you’d give to 
dancers that have 1-3 years of experience.  People could most benefit from 
different advice at different stages of their learning process.What 
advice would you give to people at different stages of learning 
photography?



Just the concept of “new can have many shades of meaning:
New to photography, or new to taking their photography seriously.

New to digital photography.

New to taking photos with a DSLR, rather than a camera.

The next step seems to be having learned the basics of manual controls and 
processing raw files.


After that, is often studio lighting.

What about the photographer who has worked for many years and feels that 
their growth as a photographer has hit a plateau?


What advice would you give someone at any of these stages (or any others 
that come to mind) of their photography? What important things did you 
learn along the way that really helped?


--
Larry Colen
l...@red4est.com



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Re: Advice

[Stanley Halpin]

Note that you might be able to find an unused new-in-box K-3 (i.e. not K-3ii). 
The K-3 does have the built in flash. Does not have the GPS or pixel shift. 
None of these three is a perfect camera, and the K-3, K-3ii and K-70 all have a 
different “solution” to the problem of trying to balance many design tradeoffs. 
Choose based on what is important to you.

No, I didn’t answer your question about the Powered On issue, I was not aware 
that there had been an issue causing widespread concern.
stan

> On Jul 7, 2017, at 10:40 PM, PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks everyone for your input. Even though the K3ii doesn't have a built in 
> flash from what all I have seen I am leaning toward it. If I had the monies I 
> would go with the K1 but that will be down the road. I am wondering though 
> has the issue with the K3ii staying on even when powered off still an issue. 
> Not sure exactly what it was about but wonder if the issue has been corrected 
> with later productions?
> 


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Re: Advice

[PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com]

Thanks everyone for your input. Even though the K3ii doesn't have a 
built in flash from what all I have seen I am leaning toward it. If I 
had the monies I would go with the K1 but that will be down the road. I 
am wondering though has the issue with the K3ii staying on even when 
powered off still an issue. Not sure exactly what it was about but 
wonder if the issue has been corrected with later productions?


Jeffery Johnson | Photo Captures by Jeffery
http://www.PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com
/Diverse range of photography Artistic - Animals - Events/Festivals - 
Transportation - Pets - Nature - Scenic - Cityscape. That you can 
purchase as framed or unframed prints, with loads of variety in home 
decor./

On 7/6/2017 9:11 PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:

I've never purchased the extended warranty, and I've never had a problem.

Paul via phone


On Jul 6, 2017, at 10:06 PM, PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com 
 wrote:

Thanks for your input Paul. Suppose I will need to dig a bit deeper as I won't to 
get B additional 3 year warranty. Just in case or do I need it?

Jeffery Johnson | Photo Captures by Jeffery
http://www.PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com
/Diverse range of photography Artistic - Animals - Events/Festivals - 
Transportation - Pets - Nature - Scenic - Cityscape. That you can purchase as 
framed or unframed prints, with loads of variety in home decor./

On 7/6/2017 9:03 PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:
The K3 II is a step up from the K70.

Paul via phone


On Jul 6, 2017, at 9:34 PM, PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com 
 wrote:

I am happy they will work in a K1 but my wallet wouldn't like it. Actually I 
stand corrected it appears the K70 is newer than the K3II.

Jeffery Johnson | Photo Captures by Jeffery
http://www.PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com
/Diverse range of photography Artistic - Animals - Events/Festivals - 
Transportation - Pets - Nature - Scenic - Cityscape. That you can purchase as 
framed or unframed prints, with loads of variety in home decor./

On 7/6/2017 7:58 PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:
K3 II, a no brainer. The batteries will work. They'll also work in a K-1.

Paul via phone


On Jul 6, 2017, at 8:47 PM, PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com 
 wrote:

Once I get a bit of monies saved up going to either get the K70 or K3 II. I 
currently have the K5 and I am wondering will the batteries for it work with 
the either camera? Also I know that the K3 II is a bit newer but so far it 
doesn't appear to be much difference in them. I always like to think things out 
before making any purchases especially when it comes to spending any kind of 
monies on myself.

Thoughts on either camera?

Thanks...

--
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http://www.PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com
/Diverse range of photography Artistic - Animals - Events/Festivals - 
Transportation - Pets - Nature - Scenic - Cityscape. That you can purchase as 
framed or unframed prints, with loads of variety in home decor./
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Re: Advice

[John]

K-5 and K-3 II both use the D-LI90 battery. The K70 takes a different 
battery.


On 7/6/2017 20:47, PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com wrote:

Once I get a bit of monies saved up going to either get the K70 or K3
II. I currently have the K5 and I am wondering will the batteries for it
work with the either camera? Also I know that the K3 II is a bit newer
but so far it doesn't appear to be much difference in them. I always
like to think things out before making any purchases especially when it
comes to spending any kind of monies on myself.

Thoughts on either camera?

Thanks...



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Religion - Answers we must never question.

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Re: Advice

[Mark C]

Both the K3-II and the K70 have features not found in the other, so I 
think it would boil down to which camera has the features you would use 
the most.


Based on reviews (I have not used either) the K3II appears to have 
better AF ( at least it has more AF points and more cross AF points), 
faster FPS, built in GPS, dual SD card slots and faster max shutter 
speed. It also has niche features that may be important to some users 
but not others - like pixel shift mode and astro tracer.


The K70 has a built in flash, built in wifi, an articulated screen and 
pixel shift mode. And its priced better too. But slower FPS and maybe 
possibly less capable AF.


I think it boils down to what you do and what you need. For my type of 
shooting - macro's and landscapes - I'd lean towards the K70 mostly for 
the articulated screen. I think the built in flash would come in handy 
at times also.  But for a sports or action shooter the better AF and 
buffer speed of the K3II would probably tip the scales.


I did not dig in and look at projected shutter life or build quality and 
those would be things to consider. The K3II as a flagship camera may be 
built to a higher spec than the K70, I don't know.


Good luck -

Mark



K3II has pixel shift resolution

PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com wrote:
Once I get a bit of monies saved up going to either get the K70 or K3 
II. I currently have the K5 and I am wondering will the batteries for 
it work with the either camera? Also I know that the K3 II is a bit 
newer but so far it doesn't appear to be much difference in them. I 
always like to think things out before making any purchases especially 
when it comes to spending any kind of monies on myself.


Thoughts on either camera?

Thanks...




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Re: Advice

[Paul Stenquist]

I've never purchased the extended warranty, and I've never had a problem. 

Paul via phone

> On Jul 6, 2017, at 10:06 PM, PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for your input Paul. Suppose I will need to dig a bit deeper as I 
> won't to get B additional 3 year warranty. Just in case or do I need it?
> 
> Jeffery Johnson | Photo Captures by Jeffery
> http://www.PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com
> /Diverse range of photography Artistic - Animals - Events/Festivals - 
> Transportation - Pets - Nature - Scenic - Cityscape. That you can purchase as 
> framed or unframed prints, with loads of variety in home decor./
>> On 7/6/2017 9:03 PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:
>> The K3 II is a step up from the K70.
>> 
>> Paul via phone
>> 
>>> On Jul 6, 2017, at 9:34 PM, PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I am happy they will work in a K1 but my wallet wouldn't like it. Actually 
>>> I stand corrected it appears the K70 is newer than the K3II.
>>> 
>>> Jeffery Johnson | Photo Captures by Jeffery
>>> http://www.PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com
>>> /Diverse range of photography Artistic - Animals - Events/Festivals - 
>>> Transportation - Pets - Nature - Scenic - Cityscape. That you can purchase 
>>> as framed or unframed prints, with loads of variety in home decor./
 On 7/6/2017 7:58 PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:
 K3 II, a no brainer. The batteries will work. They'll also work in a K-1.
 
 Paul via phone
 
> On Jul 6, 2017, at 8:47 PM, PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com 
>  wrote:
> 
> Once I get a bit of monies saved up going to either get the K70 or K3 II. 
> I currently have the K5 and I am wondering will the batteries for it work 
> with the either camera? Also I know that the K3 II is a bit newer but so 
> far it doesn't appear to be much difference in them. I always like to 
> think things out before making any purchases especially when it comes to 
> spending any kind of monies on myself.
> 
> Thoughts on either camera?
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> -- 
> Jeffery Johnson | Photo Captures by Jeffery
> http://www.PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com
> /Diverse range of photography Artistic - Animals - Events/Festivals - 
> Transportation - Pets - Nature - Scenic - Cityscape. That you can 
> purchase as framed or unframed prints, with loads of variety in home 
> decor./
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> follow the directions.
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Re: Advice

[PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com]

Thanks for your input Paul. Suppose I will need to dig a bit deeper as I 
won't to get B additional 3 year warranty. Just in case or do I need it?


Jeffery Johnson | Photo Captures by Jeffery
http://www.PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com
/Diverse range of photography Artistic - Animals - Events/Festivals - 
Transportation - Pets - Nature - Scenic - Cityscape. That you can 
purchase as framed or unframed prints, with loads of variety in home 
decor./

On 7/6/2017 9:03 PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:

The K3 II is a step up from the K70.

Paul via phone


On Jul 6, 2017, at 9:34 PM, PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com 
 wrote:

I am happy they will work in a K1 but my wallet wouldn't like it. Actually I 
stand corrected it appears the K70 is newer than the K3II.

Jeffery Johnson | Photo Captures by Jeffery
http://www.PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com
/Diverse range of photography Artistic - Animals - Events/Festivals - 
Transportation - Pets - Nature - Scenic - Cityscape. That you can purchase as 
framed or unframed prints, with loads of variety in home decor./

On 7/6/2017 7:58 PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:
K3 II, a no brainer. The batteries will work. They'll also work in a K-1.

Paul via phone


On Jul 6, 2017, at 8:47 PM, PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com 
 wrote:

Once I get a bit of monies saved up going to either get the K70 or K3 II. I 
currently have the K5 and I am wondering will the batteries for it work with 
the either camera? Also I know that the K3 II is a bit newer but so far it 
doesn't appear to be much difference in them. I always like to think things out 
before making any purchases especially when it comes to spending any kind of 
monies on myself.

Thoughts on either camera?

Thanks...

--
Jeffery Johnson | Photo Captures by Jeffery
http://www.PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com
/Diverse range of photography Artistic - Animals - Events/Festivals - 
Transportation - Pets - Nature - Scenic - Cityscape. That you can purchase as 
framed or unframed prints, with loads of variety in home decor./
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Re: Advice

[Paul Stenquist]

The K3 II is a step up from the K70.

Paul via phone

> On Jul 6, 2017, at 9:34 PM, PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am happy they will work in a K1 but my wallet wouldn't like it. Actually I 
> stand corrected it appears the K70 is newer than the K3II.
> 
> Jeffery Johnson | Photo Captures by Jeffery
> http://www.PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com
> /Diverse range of photography Artistic - Animals - Events/Festivals - 
> Transportation - Pets - Nature - Scenic - Cityscape. That you can purchase as 
> framed or unframed prints, with loads of variety in home decor./
>> On 7/6/2017 7:58 PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:
>> K3 II, a no brainer. The batteries will work. They'll also work in a K-1.
>> 
>> Paul via phone
>> 
>>> On Jul 6, 2017, at 8:47 PM, PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Once I get a bit of monies saved up going to either get the K70 or K3 II. I 
>>> currently have the K5 and I am wondering will the batteries for it work 
>>> with the either camera? Also I know that the K3 II is a bit newer but so 
>>> far it doesn't appear to be much difference in them. I always like to think 
>>> things out before making any purchases especially when it comes to spending 
>>> any kind of monies on myself.
>>> 
>>> Thoughts on either camera?
>>> 
>>> Thanks...
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Jeffery Johnson | Photo Captures by Jeffery
>>> http://www.PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com
>>> /Diverse range of photography Artistic - Animals - Events/Festivals - 
>>> Transportation - Pets - Nature - Scenic - Cityscape. That you can purchase 
>>> as framed or unframed prints, with loads of variety in home decor./
>>> -- 
>>> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List
>>> PDML@pdml.net
>>> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
>>> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and 
>>> follow the directions.
> 
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Re: Advice

[PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com]

I am happy they will work in a K1 but my wallet wouldn't like it. 
Actually I stand corrected it appears the K70 is newer than the K3II.


Jeffery Johnson | Photo Captures by Jeffery
http://www.PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com
/Diverse range of photography Artistic - Animals - Events/Festivals - 
Transportation - Pets - Nature - Scenic - Cityscape. That you can 
purchase as framed or unframed prints, with loads of variety in home 
decor./

On 7/6/2017 7:58 PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:

K3 II, a no brainer. The batteries will work. They'll also work in a K-1.

Paul via phone


On Jul 6, 2017, at 8:47 PM, PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com 
 wrote:

Once I get a bit of monies saved up going to either get the K70 or K3 II. I 
currently have the K5 and I am wondering will the batteries for it work with 
the either camera? Also I know that the K3 II is a bit newer but so far it 
doesn't appear to be much difference in them. I always like to think things out 
before making any purchases especially when it comes to spending any kind of 
monies on myself.

Thoughts on either camera?

Thanks...

--
Jeffery Johnson | Photo Captures by Jeffery
http://www.PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com
/Diverse range of photography Artistic - Animals - Events/Festivals - 
Transportation - Pets - Nature - Scenic - Cityscape. That you can purchase as 
framed or unframed prints, with loads of variety in home decor./
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Re: Advice

[Paul Stenquist]

K3 II, a no brainer. The batteries will work. They'll also work in a K-1.

Paul via phone

> On Jul 6, 2017, at 8:47 PM, PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com 
>  wrote:
> 
> Once I get a bit of monies saved up going to either get the K70 or K3 II. I 
> currently have the K5 and I am wondering will the batteries for it work with 
> the either camera? Also I know that the K3 II is a bit newer but so far it 
> doesn't appear to be much difference in them. I always like to think things 
> out before making any purchases especially when it comes to spending any kind 
> of monies on myself.
> 
> Thoughts on either camera?
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> -- 
> Jeffery Johnson | Photo Captures by Jeffery
> http://www.PhotoCapturesbyJeffery.com
> /Diverse range of photography Artistic - Animals - Events/Festivals - 
> Transportation - Pets - Nature - Scenic - Cityscape. That you can purchase as 
> framed or unframed prints, with loads of variety in home decor./
> -- 
> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List
> PDML@pdml.net
> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow 
> the directions.

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Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

[John Sessoms]

A bit of follow-up ...

The weekly brunch is a sub-group of a nature photography group - CNPA
Carolinas Nature Photography Association.

Grandfather Mountain regulars will know who I'm referring to.

This guy recently joined the local group here in the Triangle.

As I mentioned, he had a specific question about getting a computer for
post-processing using Lightroom. I tried to answer without getting into
a Windoze vs Apple argument ... or Canon/Nikon; Tamron/Sigma ...

I should have suggested a good tripod, but I couldn't get a word in
edgewise once the debate got going.

I'd also suggest he join in some of the photo outings our group has to
get a better feel for what might interest him. I got the feeling
"landscape photography" was some kind of a generic place holder because
he doesn't know what he wants to do. The advice to look at other
people's photos should help him there.

He's at a stage where he doesn't yet know enough to figure out what
questions he wants to ask.

I know what that's like.

I think the Ansel Adams exhibit will be at the NCMA for another month,
so if he comes back to the brunch next week I'll suggest he start there.

On 3/24/2017 10:25 AM, Stanley Halpin wrote:



On Mar 23, 2017, at 11:54 PM, Larry Colen  wrote:



John Sessoms wrote:


But that got me thinking overnight & I decided to submit a more general
question to the group wisdom.

Given a new photographer who already has a "pro-sumer" DSLR, what advice
would you give him/her regarding BASIC kit?

... after I suggest a good, solid tripod.



Watching the advice stream by, most of it is discussing what someone needs to 
do to become the best possible photographer, without actually considering what 
his goals are, or how much effort (never mind money) he wants to devote to the 
pursuit, which is actually orthogonal to the OP question of their basic (*) kit.

Along that line, I'd suggest that he first go out and have fun playing with his 
camera, figure out what he enjoys doing, what his goals as a photographer are, 
and how much time, money and effort he wants to spend pursuing his goals.

In the 80s-90s my mom, who told us that she couldn't even see through a 
viewfinder when Dad and I had a darkroom before they divorced, got into 
photography. She covered the walls with prints of rather mediocre cliche 
photos, taken with minimal technical ability. However, she had a lot of fun, 
and was very happy with her work.

It is entirely possible that this fellow can have has much fun with the kit he 
has and not investing the effort to achieve professional levels of competence.

--
Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est) http://red4est.com/lrc




Yes Larry, John’s question was about “basic kit” for a newbie. But there is an 
underlying presumption that the person in question may in fact use the kit and 
that it may become a hobby. I.e., something that is “...a regular activity that 
is done for enjoyment…”

If this is to be a “regular activity” then the person in question needs several 
things besides a basic kit. Here then is my advice to him.

a. Motivation. Why would you pick up the camera, much less step outside, much 
less walk/drive/fly someplace just to take pictures? Presumably because there 
is something satisfying and rewarding about capturing an image of a 
person/place/scene/object, a picture which becomes a representation of your own 
memory that can be not only revisited but also shared with others. But it is a 
big world with lots to see. As others have suggested, a good exercise easy in 
the process would be to look at photo books and websites and magazines, seeing 
which sort of images intrigue you for whatever reason. As you go off into that 
wide world with basic kit in hand, keep paying attention to what others are 
shooting.

b. Knowledge. It helps to have an understanding of the basic controls on the 
camera and why they are there and how they make a difference in the image. 
Aperture, shutter speed, ISO. How these three variables interact and why you 
might want to make different tradeoffs when shooting a flower macro than you 
would shooting a seascape. And oh by the way it helps to know something about 
light and the way the light on a scene can vary moment to moment, hour to hour, 
day to day and how the quality of light affects the images.

c. Understanding. You can read the manual, you can read or view basic 
instructional materials and quickly “know” about things like aperture, speed 
and ISO. But a deeper understanding takes practice and reflection.

So, to summarize and also echo what many others have said:

1. RTFM.
2. Look at others’ work.
3. Spend a year or two taking pictures.
4. Look at others’ work, try to figure what you are missing.
5. Take a field workshop or two with competent professionals who shoot the sort 
of subject you are interested in.
6. Go shoot a bunch more.
7. Buy more lenses, maybe a new camera body.
8. Look for recommendations for a local 

Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

[Stanley Halpin]

> On Mar 23, 2017, at 11:54 PM, Larry Colen  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> John Sessoms wrote:
> 
>> But that got me thinking overnight & I decided to submit a more general
>> question to the group wisdom.
>> 
>> Given a new photographer who already has a "pro-sumer" DSLR, what advice
>> would you give him/her regarding BASIC kit?
>> 
>> ... after I suggest a good, solid tripod.
>> 
> 
> Watching the advice stream by, most of it is discussing what someone needs to 
> do to become the best possible photographer, without actually considering 
> what his goals are, or how much effort (never mind money) he wants to devote 
> to the pursuit, which is actually orthogonal to the OP question of their 
> basic (*) kit.
> 
> Along that line, I'd suggest that he first go out and have fun playing with 
> his camera, figure out what he enjoys doing, what his goals as a photographer 
> are, and how much time, money and effort he wants to spend pursuing his goals.
> 
> In the 80s-90s my mom, who told us that she couldn't even see through a 
> viewfinder when Dad and I had a darkroom before they divorced, got into 
> photography. She covered the walls with prints of rather mediocre cliche 
> photos, taken with minimal technical ability. However, she had a lot of fun, 
> and was very happy with her work.
> 
> It is entirely possible that this fellow can have has much fun with the kit 
> he has and not investing the effort to achieve professional levels of 
> competence.
> 
> -- 
> Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est) http://red4est.com/lrc
> 
> 

Yes Larry, John’s question was about “basic kit” for a newbie. But there is an 
underlying presumption that the person in question may in fact use the kit and 
that it may become a hobby. I.e., something that is “...a regular activity that 
is done for enjoyment…”

If this is to be a “regular activity” then the person in question needs several 
things besides a basic kit. Here then is my advice to him.

a. Motivation. Why would you pick up the camera, much less step outside, much 
less walk/drive/fly someplace just to take pictures? Presumably because there 
is something satisfying and rewarding about capturing an image of a 
person/place/scene/object, a picture which becomes a representation of your own 
memory that can be not only revisited but also shared with others. But it is a 
big world with lots to see. As others have suggested, a good exercise easy in 
the process would be to look at photo books and websites and magazines, seeing 
which sort of images intrigue you for whatever reason. As you go off into that 
wide world with basic kit in hand, keep paying attention to what others are 
shooting.

b. Knowledge. It helps to have an understanding of the basic controls on the 
camera and why they are there and how they make a difference in the image. 
Aperture, shutter speed, ISO. How these three variables interact and why you 
might want to make different tradeoffs when shooting a flower macro than you 
would shooting a seascape. And oh by the way it helps to know something about 
light and the way the light on a scene can vary moment to moment, hour to hour, 
day to day and how the quality of light affects the images.

c. Understanding. You can read the manual, you can read or view basic 
instructional materials and quickly “know” about things like aperture, speed 
and ISO. But a deeper understanding takes practice and reflection. 

So, to summarize and also echo what many others have said:

1. RTFM.
2. Look at others’ work.
3. Spend a year or two taking pictures.
4. Look at others’ work, try to figure what you are missing.
5. Take a field workshop or two with competent professionals who shoot the sort 
of subject you are interested in.
6. Go shoot a bunch more.
7. Buy more lenses, maybe a new camera body.
8. Look for recommendations for a local psychotherapist who can treat cases of 
obsession

stan


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Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

[Steve Cottrell]

On 23/3/17, Mark Roberts, discombobulated, unleashed:

>Go to a library and look at books of photography. Lots of them. 

Sound advice.

My son's girlfriend loves shooting candid pics on her phone and asked me
for advice. I found an old digital camera lurking in a drawer, gave her
that, and ordered some books: Martin Parr, HCB and 'Paris, Mon Amour'. I
told her to look at the pictures in the books and see if inspiration came.

It did.

-- 


Cheers,
  Cotty


___/\__Broadcast, Corporate,
||  (O)  |Web Video Production
--
_



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Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

[Larry Colen]

John Sessoms wrote:


But that got me thinking overnight & I decided to submit a more general
question to the group wisdom.

Given a new photographer who already has a "pro-sumer" DSLR, what advice
would you give him/her regarding BASIC kit?

... after I suggest a good, solid tripod.



Watching the advice stream by, most of it is discussing what someone 
needs to do to become the best possible photographer, without actually 
considering what his goals are, or how much effort (never mind money) he 
wants to devote to the pursuit, which is actually orthogonal to the OP 
question of their basic (*) kit.


Along that line, I'd suggest that he first go out and have fun playing 
with his camera, figure out what he enjoys doing, what his goals as a 
photographer are, and how much time, money and effort he wants to spend 
pursuing his goals.


In the 80s-90s my mom, who told us that she couldn't even see through a 
viewfinder when Dad and I had a darkroom before they divorced, got into 
photography. She covered the walls with prints of rather mediocre cliche 
photos, taken with minimal technical ability. However, she had a lot of 
fun, and was very happy with her work.


It is entirely possible that this fellow can have has much fun with the 
kit he has and not investing the effort to achieve professional levels 
of competence.


--
Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est) http://red4est.com/lrc


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Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

[Bill]

On 3/23/2017 7:03 PM, Mark Roberts wrote:

Go to a library and look at books of photography. Lots of them.

Then decide what kind of photography you'd like to try. Street
photography? Landscapes? Fashion? Wildlife? Look at as many genres as
you can and decide what you'll like to pursue. Always remember that
you can change your mind in a month or a year or ten years, but pick
one to start.

Ask around about what kind of kit suits your chosen interest and go
buy some secondhand stuff at B, Adorama or KEH.

Then start shooting lots of pictures.



And then.

Take the pictures you like, and put them in a file on your computer and 
don't look at them for six months to a year. The longer the better.

Look at the pictures you don't like and figure out why you don't like them.
When you have that figured out, stop doing whatever it is that you don't 
like.


In a year, go back and look at the pictures you filed away and compare the
earlier ones to what you are doing now that you like. It can be very 
entertaining.


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Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

[Mark Roberts]

Go to a library and look at books of photography. Lots of them. 

Then decide what kind of photography you'd like to try. Street
photography? Landscapes? Fashion? Wildlife? Look at as many genres as
you can and decide what you'll like to pursue. Always remember that
you can change your mind in a month or a year or ten years, but pick
one to start.

Ask around about what kind of kit suits your chosen interest and go
buy some secondhand stuff at B, Adorama or KEH.

Then start shooting lots of pictures.
 
-- 
Mark Roberts - Photography & Multimedia
www.robertstech.com





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Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

[Mark C]

He wants to do landscapes?  My advice would be to go off to an art 
museum and look at every landscape he can find -all media, all times, 
all places; everything available.


On 3/23/2017 11:22 AM, John Sessoms wrote:

At my weekly photography brunch yesterday, we had a new "member" who had
a question. He's recently retired & his son had bought him a Nikon D5500
(I'm guessing with kit lens). He said he's interested in landscape
photography.

He asked what kind of computer should he buy. He's already signed up for
an adult continuing education class in Lightroom from the local
community college (if it doesn't get canceled because not enough people
sign up).

Before the discussion devolved into Windoze vs Apple, desktop or laptop,
and whether he should buy the Tamron 70-200 or the Sigma 100 - 400, my
advice was he should get "the fastest processor, the most memory & the
biggest hard-drive you can afford" (which I think holds up either way in
the Windoze vs Apple debate).

I should have suggested a good tripod, but missed my chance.

But that got me thinking overnight & I decided to submit a more general
question to the group wisdom.

Given a new photographer who already has a "pro-sumer" DSLR, what advice
would you give him/her regarding BASIC kit?

... after I suggest a good, solid tripod.




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Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

[John Sessoms]

Open a savings account. Takes longer, but eventually you'll get there.

On 3/23/2017 2:21 PM, Alan C wrote:

$$$ if you have it. What if you don't?

Alan C

-Original Message- From: Godfrey DiGiorgi
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2017 8:09 PM
To: PDML List
Subject: Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

1- Good Solid Tripod (plan on spending about $600-750 for a good one.
Don't buy a cheap one because you'll just buy a better one after that, a
better one after that, and then the same $650-700 tripod in the end …)

2- Remote Release

3- Whatever lens suits the kind of landscape photography you want to do.
Same kind of logic applies to "which one" here as applies to the tripod.

4- Lightroom (standalone or CC stuff, up to you which to spend your
money on)

5- If you need a new computer, pick your poison between macOS and
Windoze. Buy something with a minimum of 8G RAM, 500G startup drive, and
a fast 2T external drive (USB3 or Thunderbolt, depending on what ya
like) for storing your photography data on. Also buy a separate drive to
run whatever backup system you prefer to use (macOS: run Time Machine)
and make sure the backup drive is the size of the startup drive and the
external data drive combined, or larger. However, if you're computer
system is recent enough and has enough RAM and cpu to support it, just
buy the external drive for storing your new photography data and run it
with Lightroom until you feel you need more performance.


G



On Mar 23, 2017, at 8:22 AM, John Sessoms <johnsess...@yahoo.com> wrote:

At my weekly photography brunch yesterday, we had a new "member" who had
a question. He's recently retired & his son had bought him a Nikon D5500
(I'm guessing with kit lens). He said he's interested in landscape
photography.

He asked what kind of computer should he buy. He's already signed up for
an adult continuing education class in Lightroom from the local
community college (if it doesn't get canceled because not enough people
sign up).

Before the discussion devolved into Windoze vs Apple, desktop or laptop,
and whether he should buy the Tamron 70-200 or the Sigma 100 - 400, my
advice was he should get "the fastest processor, the most memory & the
biggest hard-drive you can afford" (which I think holds up either way in
the Windoze vs Apple debate).

I should have suggested a good tripod, but missed my chance.

But that got me thinking overnight & I decided to submit a more general
question to the group wisdom.

Given a new photographer who already has a "pro-sumer" DSLR, what advice
would you give him/her regarding BASIC kit?

... after I suggest a good, solid tripod.

--
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to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and
follow the directions.





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Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

[Ken Waller]

Shoot alot.

Use a polarizer when needed.

Review landscape images for ideas.

If he's got the time/money attend local 1 day photo seminars on outdoor 
photography.
Ideally, a week long workshop where you eat, sleep and dream photography 
would allow him to get totally immersed along side other like minded 
individuals and learn from a pro.


Kenneth Waller
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/kennethwaller

- Original Message - 
From: "John Sessoms" 

Subject: Advice for a newly minted photographer



At my weekly photography brunch yesterday, we had a new "member" who had
a question. He's recently retired & his son had bought him a Nikon D5500
(I'm guessing with kit lens). He said he's interested in landscape
photography.

He asked what kind of computer should he buy. He's already signed up for
an adult continuing education class in Lightroom from the local
community college (if it doesn't get canceled because not enough people
sign up).

Before the discussion devolved into Windoze vs Apple, desktop or laptop,
and whether he should buy the Tamron 70-200 or the Sigma 100 - 400, my
advice was he should get "the fastest processor, the most memory & the
biggest hard-drive you can afford" (which I think holds up either way in
the Windoze vs Apple debate).

I should have suggested a good tripod, but missed my chance.

But that got me thinking overnight & I decided to submit a more general
question to the group wisdom.

Given a new photographer who already has a "pro-sumer" DSLR, what advice
would you give him/her regarding BASIC kit?

... after I suggest a good, solid tripod.



--
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the directions.

Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

[P. J. Alling]

Probably the best investment he could make for his first purchase given 
he already has the Nikon, and that the D5500 has one of the best imaging 
systems in it's class, a good lens, to replace the kit lens as the first 
order of business.


I don't think he could go wrong with the unstabilized version of the 
Tamron 17-50mm f2.8.  I've done a lot of research on them, and at the 
current price of about $300 it's probably the best bang for the buck in 
a "normal" zoom.   That lens compares pretty favorably for IQ to every 
other manufactures "pro" APS-C zoom in that range.


For example IIRC it's not quit as sharp in the center as the Pentax 
16-50 but sharper in the corners at all focal lengths and f stops, with 
less CA, which is pretty true when compared to the Sigma.


Build quality isn't quite up to the OEM lenses.  But I actually tied out 
the image stabilized version on a Nikon body, as my local camera store 
doesn't stock Pentax and it handles very nicely and easily matches the 
build quality of the Nikon body.


I don't know for sure if those lenses are still available new, the 
stabilized version isn't supposed to be nearly as good optically, though 
it should still blow the kit lens away.  At that point I'd probably go 
for the Sigma, but it's selling for maybe $100-$150 more than the 
Tamron, still a lot less expensive than the Nikon version though.



On 3/23/2017 11:22 AM, John Sessoms wrote:

At my weekly photography brunch yesterday, we had a new "member" who had
a question. He's recently retired & his son had bought him a Nikon D5500
(I'm guessing with kit lens). He said he's interested in landscape
photography.

He asked what kind of computer should he buy. He's already signed up for
an adult continuing education class in Lightroom from the local
community college (if it doesn't get canceled because not enough people
sign up).

Before the discussion devolved into Windoze vs Apple, desktop or laptop,
and whether he should buy the Tamron 70-200 or the Sigma 100 - 400, my
advice was he should get "the fastest processor, the most memory & the
biggest hard-drive you can afford" (which I think holds up either way in
the Windoze vs Apple debate).

I should have suggested a good tripod, but missed my chance.

But that got me thinking overnight & I decided to submit a more general
question to the group wisdom.

Given a new photographer who already has a "pro-sumer" DSLR, what advice
would you give him/her regarding BASIC kit?

... after I suggest a good, solid tripod.




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Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

[Godfrey DiGiorgi]

Take whatever you already and go take pictures. 

G

> On Mar 23, 2017, at 11:21 AM, Alan C  wrote:
> 
> $$$ if you have it. What if you don't?

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Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

[Larry Colen]

John Sessoms wrote:


But that got me thinking overnight & I decided to submit a more general
question to the group wisdom.

Given a new photographer who already has a "pro-sumer" DSLR, what advice
would you give him/her regarding BASIC kit?

... after I suggest a good, solid tripod.


Spend as little as they can on gear for the first year with the 
understanding that almost everything they get in that first year will 
become their "emergency backup kit". Most people won't still be doing 
photography regularly after three or four months, and most people won't 
do it seriously enough that the going from budget to high end kit will 
make any difference in the technical quality of their photos. I tell 
people to just start off with a used camera off of craigslist.


For tripods, start off with benro/induro gear, but go straight to 
arca-swiss rather than manfrotto mounts. The top end induro ball head is 
less expensive than bottom end of the name brands and has a 3" ball 
rather than a 1".


While you're at it, get a monopod. I like my five section benro carbon 
fiber because I can carry it in my camera bag.  When you are hiking 
around, you can carry a monopod with ball head in a maglight holster on 
your belt. It's much easier than carrying a tripod, and can get you a 
lot of the performance.


It'll take him a year to find out what lenses he really needs.  He 
should go with what he has until he finds shots that he regularly cannot 
get without a wider, or faster, or autofocus lens. In the mean time, 
rent or borrow lenses.


Buy a copy of light, science and magic, and read it twice. On the second 
time through it, do at least some of the exercises.


Shoot raw, if he wants he can start with raw+jpeg and not process the 
raw files, but doing your own post processing of raw files probably 
makes several stops of performance difference (in challenging light), 
which is the equivalent to a much more expensive computer.




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Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

[Alan C]

$$$ if you have it. What if you don't?

Alan C

-Original Message- 
From: Godfrey DiGiorgi

Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2017 8:09 PM
To: PDML List
Subject: Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

1- Good Solid Tripod (plan on spending about $600-750 for a good one. Don't 
buy a cheap one because you'll just buy a better one after that, a better 
one after that, and then the same $650-700 tripod in the end …)


2- Remote Release

3- Whatever lens suits the kind of landscape photography you want to do. 
Same kind of logic applies to "which one" here as applies to the tripod.


4- Lightroom (standalone or CC stuff, up to you which to spend your money 
on)


5- If you need a new computer, pick your poison between macOS and Windoze. 
Buy something with a minimum of 8G RAM, 500G startup drive, and a fast 2T 
external drive (USB3 or Thunderbolt, depending on what ya like) for storing 
your photography data on. Also buy a separate drive to run whatever backup 
system you prefer to use (macOS: run Time Machine) and make sure the backup 
drive is the size of the startup drive and the external data drive combined, 
or larger. However, if you're computer system is recent enough and has 
enough RAM and cpu to support it, just buy the external drive for storing 
your new photography data and run it with Lightroom until you feel you need 
more performance.



G



On Mar 23, 2017, at 8:22 AM, John Sessoms <johnsess...@yahoo.com> wrote:

At my weekly photography brunch yesterday, we had a new "member" who had
a question. He's recently retired & his son had bought him a Nikon D5500
(I'm guessing with kit lens). He said he's interested in landscape
photography.

He asked what kind of computer should he buy. He's already signed up for
an adult continuing education class in Lightroom from the local
community college (if it doesn't get canceled because not enough people
sign up).

Before the discussion devolved into Windoze vs Apple, desktop or laptop,
and whether he should buy the Tamron 70-200 or the Sigma 100 - 400, my
advice was he should get "the fastest processor, the most memory & the
biggest hard-drive you can afford" (which I think holds up either way in
the Windoze vs Apple debate).

I should have suggested a good tripod, but missed my chance.

But that got me thinking overnight & I decided to submit a more general
question to the group wisdom.

Given a new photographer who already has a "pro-sumer" DSLR, what advice
would you give him/her regarding BASIC kit?

... after I suggest a good, solid tripod.

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Re: Advice for a newly minted photographer

[Godfrey DiGiorgi]

1- Good Solid Tripod (plan on spending about $600-750 for a good one. Don't buy 
a cheap one because you'll just buy a better one after that, a better one after 
that, and then the same $650-700 tripod in the end …)

2- Remote Release

3- Whatever lens suits the kind of landscape photography you want to do. Same 
kind of logic applies to "which one" here as applies to the tripod. 

4- Lightroom (standalone or CC stuff, up to you which to spend your money on)

5- If you need a new computer, pick your poison between macOS and Windoze. Buy 
something with a minimum of 8G RAM, 500G startup drive, and a fast 2T external 
drive (USB3 or Thunderbolt, depending on what ya like) for storing your 
photography data on. Also buy a separate drive to run whatever backup system 
you prefer to use (macOS: run Time Machine) and make sure the backup drive is 
the size of the startup drive and the external data drive combined, or larger. 
However, if you're computer system is recent enough and has enough RAM and cpu 
to support it, just buy the external drive for storing your new photography 
data and run it with Lightroom until you feel you need more performance. 


G


> On Mar 23, 2017, at 8:22 AM, John Sessoms  wrote:
> 
> At my weekly photography brunch yesterday, we had a new "member" who had
> a question. He's recently retired & his son had bought him a Nikon D5500
> (I'm guessing with kit lens). He said he's interested in landscape
> photography.
> 
> He asked what kind of computer should he buy. He's already signed up for
> an adult continuing education class in Lightroom from the local
> community college (if it doesn't get canceled because not enough people
> sign up).
> 
> Before the discussion devolved into Windoze vs Apple, desktop or laptop,
> and whether he should buy the Tamron 70-200 or the Sigma 100 - 400, my
> advice was he should get "the fastest processor, the most memory & the
> biggest hard-drive you can afford" (which I think holds up either way in
> the Windoze vs Apple debate).
> 
> I should have suggested a good tripod, but missed my chance.
> 
> But that got me thinking overnight & I decided to submit a more general
> question to the group wisdom.
> 
> Given a new photographer who already has a "pro-sumer" DSLR, what advice
> would you give him/her regarding BASIC kit?
> 
> ... after I suggest a good, solid tripod.
> 
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Re: Advice on large format photography

[Bulent Celasun]

Thanks Steve,

Actually, I am having an in-between period.
Working 3 days a week.
The days I spend at home did not turn out to be as productive as I imagined.
I have plans & dreams and.. I have my fears that they will remain like that!

Bulent

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2016-11-08 1:30 GMT+03:00 Steve Cottrell :
> On 7/11/16, Bulent Celasun, discombobulated, unleashed:
>
>>I am about to retire...
>
> I am envious! And about 18 months behind you.
>
> Good luck!
>
> --
>
>
> Cheers,
>   Cotty
>
>
> ___/\__Broadcast, Corporate,
> ||  (O)  |Web Video Production
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> _
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>
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Re: Advice on large format photography

[Bulent Celasun]

Collin,

Thank you very much for your detailed, informative advice.

A print size of 16x20 (say, 40x50 cm) is surely big enough for me.
That makes the whole idea of LF rather suspect especially since
I can have "some movement", when needed, with the GX680.

>My thoughts are then:
>First) 4x5. You'll be able to do medium format as well as sheet film.
>Not very heavy but holders can be bulky.

(Un)fortunately no 4x5 is available locally.. as yet!

>Second) Medium format will let you do everything a 4x5 will.
>More weight on the hardware side, less work in the darkroom.

Sounds logical... again...

>Third) 8x10. Make your time worthwhile and just print contacts.
>You'll not be disappointed.
>But you'll spend a bunch per shot so make 'em count.

This reminds me of -once again- "the price"...
Decreasing income & rising prices for a "hobby"...

Oh well..

...

Bulent





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2016-11-07 21:11 GMT+03:00 Collin B :
>> I should be grateful indeed if you could share your experiences and
>>give me some advice on this.
>>Or, in other words, would you like to push me or stop me?
>>
>>Bulent
>
> I would recommend against a 5x7 camera for practical reasons.
> 1) if you're shooting 4x5, the camera is a lot bigger
> 2) if you're able to find 5x7 film ... good for you. It's hard to find.
> You'll end up with a bulky 4x5.
>
> That said ...
> 4x5 results are awesome.
> 8x10 is, too.
>
> But ... up to 16x20 it's tough to see the different between a quality medium
> format shot (like a Blad, Mamiya RZ, or Fuji) and a 4x5.
> So if you're printing 11x14 and you're not needing to do any lens movements
> a medium format might be a better bet.
> If you're shooting landscapes or table-top stills where you want some rise
> or tilt, then consider a 4x5 body with a roll back.
> But then you'll have to spend a good amount on quality lenses lest your
> shots look a bit low in contrast or detail.  (IOW, avoid the old 50s & 60s
> vintage Schneiders.)
>
> Of course a medium format with everything might be the Fuji GX680 series.
> Quality glass and solid hardware. Plus all the movements you'll probably
> need.  And it's a lot easier to process file medium format negs.
>
> My thoughts are then:
> First) 4x5. You'll be able to do medium format as well as sheet film. Not
> very heavy but holders can be bulky.
> Second) Medium format will let you do everything a 4x5 will. More weight on
> the hardware side, less work in the darkroom.
> Third) 8x10. Make your time worthwhile and just print contacts. You'll not
> be disappointed. But you'll spend a bunch per shot so make 'em count.
>
>
>
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Re: Advice on large format photography

[Bulent Celasun]

Dear Boris,

Many thanks for the offer.
I have a handful of (!) medium formats around and I find it difficult
to behave like a logical creature.
Extremely difficult...
That is the problem :(

Bulent
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2016-11-07 14:32 GMT+03:00 Boris Liberman :
> Bulent,
>
> I have 6x6 folder laying around... Can be yours if you feel like it.
>
> On 7 Nov 2016 12:48, "Bulent Celasun"  wrote:
>
>> I am about to retire...
>>
>> I will be having (hopefully) more time to devote to myself.
>> And myself considers reading / writing / photographing more
>> productively in the coming years.
>> Incidentally, I can get a 5x7 Arca Swiss (older type) in very good
>> condition with a new bellows for an acceptable (not very low) price.
>> The lens is a 180/5.6 Schneider.
>> A lens plate for macrophotography for mounting a reversed enlarger
>> lens may be supplied later.
>> The rear standard well be equipped with 4x5 adapter (film is a lot
>> easier to find for this) and probably another one for Fuji GX680. I
>> happen to have a Fuji GX680 to Hasselblad CFV-39 digital back...
>>
>> ...
>>
>> I should be grateful indeed if you could share your experiences and
>> give me some advice on this.
>> Or, in other words, would you like to push me or stop me?
>>
>> Bulent
>>
>>
>> -
>> http://patoloji.gen.tr
>> http://celasun.wordpress.com/
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bc_the_path/
>> http://photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=2226822
>> http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/bulentcelasun
>>
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Re: Advice on large format photography

[Bulent Celasun]

Alan,

>I sure hope it works out that way, Bulent.
>I seem to have been so busy in rtirement I sometimes wonder how I ever found 
>time to work.

Thanks, Alan,

I understand you well and I have my fears.
Even now, days seem to past to fast when I remain home!

I can only hope that it works out -at least in part- that way...

Bulent
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2016-11-07 14:16 GMT+03:00 Alan C :
> I sure hope it works out that way, Bulent. I seem to have been so busy in
> rtirement I sometimes wonder how I ever found time to work.
>
> Alan C
>
> -Original Message- From: Bulent Celasun
> Sent: Monday, November 07, 2016 12:47 PM
> To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
> Subject: Advice on large format photography
>
>
> I am about to retire...
>
> I will be having (hopefully) more time to devote to myself.
> And myself considers reading / writing / photographing more
> productively in the coming years.
> Incidentally, I can get a 5x7 Arca Swiss (older type) in very good
> condition with a new bellows for an acceptable (not very low) price.
> The lens is a 180/5.6 Schneider.
> A lens plate for macrophotography for mounting a reversed enlarger
> lens may be supplied later.
> The rear standard well be equipped with 4x5 adapter (film is a lot
> easier to find for this) and probably another one for Fuji GX680. I
> happen to have a Fuji GX680 to Hasselblad CFV-39 digital back...
>
> ...
>
> I should be grateful indeed if you could share your experiences and
> give me some advice on this.
> Or, in other words, would you like to push me or stop me?
>
> Bulent
>
>
> -
> http://patoloji.gen.tr
> http://celasun.wordpress.com/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bc_the_path/
> http://photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=2226822
> http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/bulentcelasun
>
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Re: Advice on large format photography

[Paul Stenquist]

Excellent!

Paul via phone

> On Nov 7, 2016, at 6:10 PM, Steve Cottrell  wrote:
> 
> On 7/11/16, Paul Stenquist, discombobulated, unleashed:
> 
>> I'm retired, so I now work only about 7 hours a day! Wouldn't have it
>> any other way.
> 
> Haha! Love it.
> 
> If you want an idea of what I'll be filling my time with, these Youtube
> videos will give a good hint ;-)
> 
>  M1B9aJc=PLvD5qlROxJu3r8aIu4JitzFHsqu1pxDAO>
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
>  Cotty
> 
> 
> ___/\__Broadcast, Corporate,
> ||  (O)  |Web Video Production
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> _
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Advice on large format photography

[Steve Cottrell]

On 7/11/16, Steve Cottrell, discombobulated, unleashed:

>M1B9aJc=PLvD5qlROxJu3r8aIu4JitzFHsqu1pxDAO>

or this



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Re: Advice on large format photography

[Steve Cottrell]

On 7/11/16, Paul Stenquist, discombobulated, unleashed:

>I'm retired, so I now work only about 7 hours a day! Wouldn't have it
>any other way.

Haha! Love it.

If you want an idea of what I'll be filling my time with, these Youtube
videos will give a good hint ;-)




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Re: Advice on large format photography

[Paul Stenquist]

I'm retired, so I now work only about 7 hours a day! Wouldn't have it any other 
way.

Paul via phone

> On Nov 7, 2016, at 5:30 PM, Steve Cottrell  wrote:
> 
> On 7/11/16, Bulent Celasun, discombobulated, unleashed:
> 
>> I am about to retire...
> 
> I am envious! And about 18 months behind you.
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
>  Cotty
> 
> 
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> ||  (O)  |Web Video Production
> --
> _
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Advice on large format photography

[Steve Cottrell]

On 7/11/16, Bulent Celasun, discombobulated, unleashed:

>I am about to retire...

I am envious! And about 18 months behind you.

Good luck!

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  Cotty


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Re: Advice on large format photography

[Collin B]

> I should be grateful indeed if you could share your experiences and
>give me some advice on this.
>Or, in other words, would you like to push me or stop me?
>
>Bulent

I would recommend against a 5x7 camera for practical reasons.
1) if you're shooting 4x5, the camera is a lot bigger
2) if you're able to find 5x7 film ... good for you. It's hard to find.
You'll end up with a bulky 4x5.

That said ...
4x5 results are awesome.
8x10 is, too.

But ... up to 16x20 it's tough to see the different between a quality medium
format shot (like a Blad, Mamiya RZ, or Fuji) and a 4x5.
So if you're printing 11x14 and you're not needing to do any lens movements
a medium format might be a better bet.
If you're shooting landscapes or table-top stills where you want some rise
or tilt, then consider a 4x5 body with a roll back.
But then you'll have to spend a good amount on quality lenses lest your
shots look a bit low in contrast or detail.  (IOW, avoid the old 50s & 60s
vintage Schneiders.)

Of course a medium format with everything might be the Fuji GX680 series.
Quality glass and solid hardware. Plus all the movements you'll probably
need.  And it's a lot easier to process file medium format negs.

My thoughts are then:
First) 4x5. You'll be able to do medium format as well as sheet film. Not
very heavy but holders can be bulky.
Second) Medium format will let you do everything a 4x5 will. More weight on
the hardware side, less work in the darkroom.
Third) 8x10. Make your time worthwhile and just print contacts. You'll not
be disappointed. But you'll spend a bunch per shot so make 'em count.



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Re: Advice on large format photography

[Boris Liberman]

Bulent,

I have 6x6 folder laying around... Can be yours if you feel like it.

On 7 Nov 2016 12:48, "Bulent Celasun"  wrote:

> I am about to retire...
>
> I will be having (hopefully) more time to devote to myself.
> And myself considers reading / writing / photographing more
> productively in the coming years.
> Incidentally, I can get a 5x7 Arca Swiss (older type) in very good
> condition with a new bellows for an acceptable (not very low) price.
> The lens is a 180/5.6 Schneider.
> A lens plate for macrophotography for mounting a reversed enlarger
> lens may be supplied later.
> The rear standard well be equipped with 4x5 adapter (film is a lot
> easier to find for this) and probably another one for Fuji GX680. I
> happen to have a Fuji GX680 to Hasselblad CFV-39 digital back...
>
> ...
>
> I should be grateful indeed if you could share your experiences and
> give me some advice on this.
> Or, in other words, would you like to push me or stop me?
>
> Bulent
>
>
> -
> http://patoloji.gen.tr
> http://celasun.wordpress.com/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bc_the_path/
> http://photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=2226822
> http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/bulentcelasun
>
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Re: Advice on large format photography

[Alan C]

I sure hope it works out that way, Bulent. I seem to have been so busy in 
rtirement I sometimes wonder how I ever found time to work.


Alan C

-Original Message- 
From: Bulent Celasun

Sent: Monday, November 07, 2016 12:47 PM
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: Advice on large format photography

I am about to retire...

I will be having (hopefully) more time to devote to myself.
And myself considers reading / writing / photographing more
productively in the coming years.
Incidentally, I can get a 5x7 Arca Swiss (older type) in very good
condition with a new bellows for an acceptable (not very low) price.
The lens is a 180/5.6 Schneider.
A lens plate for macrophotography for mounting a reversed enlarger
lens may be supplied later.
The rear standard well be equipped with 4x5 adapter (film is a lot
easier to find for this) and probably another one for Fuji GX680. I
happen to have a Fuji GX680 to Hasselblad CFV-39 digital back...

...

I should be grateful indeed if you could share your experiences and
give me some advice on this.
Or, in other words, would you like to push me or stop me?

Bulent


-
http://patoloji.gen.tr
http://celasun.wordpress.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bc_the_path/
http://photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=2226822
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/bulentcelasun

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RE: Advice wanted for Antivirus/Firewall (Windows 10)

[John Coyle]

Hi John - I'm currently using Trend Micro's Platinum AVprogram - I've used its 
predecessors for
years and have never had a virus, Trojan or malware infection.  It does 
slightly slow down some
internet sites where there are a lot of graphics files, but otherwise does an 
excellent job.
Prior to installing TMP, I relied on Windows Defender and my router firewall, 
and they were
effective and did not slow down sites at all.

HTH


John in Brisbane



-Original Message-
From: PDML [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of John Francis
Sent: Tuesday, 5 April 2016 09:41
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List 
Subject: OT: Advice wanted for Antivirus/Firewall (Windows 10)


We have recebtly accquired a new PC for use at home.
 
For the last heaven knows how many years we've used AVG Internet Security on 
all our home systems,
but I'm less than happy with trying to get AVG up and running on this new 
system.  HP, in their
infinite wisdom, installed a trial version of McAfee's competing product on the 
machine, and AVG
fails when it tries to install itself in place of the McAfee product.  AVG 
support seems to be
unresponsive, and the advice from their forums is for me to remove McAfee 
before trying to install
AVG.  I might be prepared to do this, were it not for two issues: 1) several 
people who have tried
this report that it still doesn't work, and 2) since AVG installs via a network 
download (rather
than allowing me to create a standalone install package first, then disconnect 
from the internet)
I'd have to have an unprotected machine with a live internet connection during 
the install, with no
guarantee that I'd end up with a successful installation.
Given that, and the lack of response from AVG support, I'm looking for an 
alternative solution.

I've asked a few people I know for recommendations, and I've been pointed to 
either Kaspersky or
Avast as good products. 
Nobody, however, seemed to think that relying on the McAfee product was a 
particularly good idea.

Would anyone care to weigh in on the subject, and let me know what they would 
recommend for someone
in my situation? 


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Re: Advice wanted for Antivirus/Firewall (Windows 10)

[ann sanfedele]

Defender Pro - came with my Hp iwth Windoze pro installed... that was 
over a yearago -- I don't knwo if I paid extra for it or it was part of
my package onthe refurbbed machine, but they haven't asked me for any 
more money and it works great.


ann

On 4/6/2016 5:42 AM, Mark Stringer wrote:

I've been using Defender and Malwarbytes (paid version). I'm satisfied.

On 4/5/2016 1:02 AM, Bipin Gupta wrote:

Hello John, I tried all the Free AV stuff you mention + some more. So
I removed all of them including Symantec or something that came
bundled with my Toshiba 4K laptop running Windows 10. I also removed
Spybot Search & Destroy as I read online that it shuts down Microsoft
AV & Firewall.

So you guessed it right now, I downloaded the Free Windows Defender
from the Microsoft Web Site. Along with Windows Firewall that came
pre-loaded with Windows 10. They are both doing a great job.

Microsoft even added a right click link on any file to scan it for
viruses. And it automatically updates itself daily without fail.

Give it a trial without biasing yourself from internet reads.

Regards.
Bipin

Landscape photography is an expression of joy and God’s bounty






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Re: Advice wanted for Antivirus/Firewall (Windows 10)

[Mark Stringer]

I've been using Defender and Malwarbytes (paid version). I'm satisfied.

On 4/5/2016 1:02 AM, Bipin Gupta wrote:

Hello John, I tried all the Free AV stuff you mention + some more. So
I removed all of them including Symantec or something that came
bundled with my Toshiba 4K laptop running Windows 10. I also removed
Spybot Search & Destroy as I read online that it shuts down Microsoft
AV & Firewall.

So you guessed it right now, I downloaded the Free Windows Defender
from the Microsoft Web Site. Along with Windows Firewall that came
pre-loaded with Windows 10. They are both doing a great job.

Microsoft even added a right click link on any file to scan it for
viruses. And it automatically updates itself daily without fail.

Give it a trial without biasing yourself from internet reads.

Regards.
Bipin

Landscape photography is an expression of joy and God’s bounty



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Re: advice sought on a shot

[David Savage]

Spot metering on the highlights in an area lit by the reflected light
might work.

On 02/05/2013, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote:
 This afternoon, I noticed that the sun was reflecting off
 my office building onto trees int he couryard, giving the sort
 of cool effect that you can get with a 100 foot tall fill
 light reflector.

 However, my attempts to capture it were not exactly successful.
 Here are two of the better shots (one processed to both color
 and black and white).

 http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157633399893140/

 Any suggestions as to what I might do, either in the camera
 or the computer, to improve them?  My one thought is to shoot
 a little earlier, whent he sun is higher in the sky and the
 light is only reflecting onto the nearer trees,


 --
 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com  http://red4est.com/lrc


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Re: advice sought on a shot

[Bob W]

I see this effect quite often from the buildings in Canary Wharf, which is a 
forest of tall buildings across the river from here. On film (so to speak) it 
looks most effective when the subject is backlit and the reflections really do 
act as a fill light.

B

On 2 May 2013, at 07:39, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote:

 This afternoon, I noticed that the sun was reflecting off 
 my office building onto trees int he couryard, giving the sort
 of cool effect that you can get with a 100 foot tall fill 
 light reflector.
 
 However, my attempts to capture it were not exactly successful.
 Here are two of the better shots (one processed to both color
 and black and white).
 
 http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157633399893140/
 
 Any suggestions as to what I might do, either in the camera
 or the computer, to improve them?  My one thought is to shoot
 a little earlier, whent he sun is higher in the sky and the
 light is only reflecting onto the nearer trees,
 
 
 -- 
 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com  http://red4est.com/lrc
 
 
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Re: advice sought on a shot

[Aahz Maruch]

On Wed, May 01, 2013, Larry Colen wrote:

 This afternoon, I noticed that the sun was reflecting off 
 my office building onto trees int he couryard, giving the sort
 of cool effect that you can get with a 100 foot tall fill 
 light reflector.
 
 However, my attempts to capture it were not exactly successful.
 Here are two of the better shots (one processed to both color
 and black and white).
 
 http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157633399893140/
 
 Any suggestions as to what I might do, either in the camera
 or the computer, to improve them?  My one thought is to shoot
 a little earlier, whent he sun is higher in the sky and the
 light is only reflecting onto the nearer trees,

What it are you trying to capture?  Just a good photo with fill or the
actual effect of double illumination?  If the latter, you might want to
find a different subject where you can capture a good double-shadow.
-- 
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  *   *   *
Help a hearing-impaired person: http://rule6.info/hearing.html

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Re: advice sought on a shot

[Bruce Walker]

On Thu, May 2, 2013 at 9:17 AM, Aahz Maruch a...@pobox.com wrote:
 On Wed, May 01, 2013, Larry Colen wrote:

 This afternoon, I noticed that the sun was reflecting off
 my office building onto trees int he couryard, giving the sort
 of cool effect that you can get with a 100 foot tall fill
 light reflector.

 However, my attempts to capture it were not exactly successful.
 Here are two of the better shots (one processed to both color
 and black and white).

 http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157633399893140/

 What it are you trying to capture?

Bingo!

--
-bmw

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Re: advice sought on a shot

[Larry Colen]

On Thu, May 02, 2013 at 03:09:07PM +0800, David Savage wrote:
 Spot metering on the highlights in an area lit by the reflected light
 might work.

Thanks.  I did bracket my shots, just to be on the safe side.

 
 On 02/05/2013, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote:
  This afternoon, I noticed that the sun was reflecting off
  my office building onto trees int he couryard, giving the sort
  of cool effect that you can get with a 100 foot tall fill
  light reflector.
 
  However, my attempts to capture it were not exactly successful.
  Here are two of the better shots (one processed to both color
  and black and white).
 
  http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157633399893140/
 
  Any suggestions as to what I might do, either in the camera
  or the computer, to improve them?  My one thought is to shoot
  a little earlier, whent he sun is higher in the sky and the
  light is only reflecting onto the nearer trees,
 
 
  --
  Larry Colen l...@red4est.com  http://red4est.com/lrc
 
 
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  follow the directions.
 
 
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-- 
Larry Colen l...@red4est.com  http://red4est.com/lrc


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Re: advice sought on a shot

[Larry Colen]

On Thu, May 02, 2013 at 12:53:37PM +0100, Bob W wrote:
 I see this effect quite often from the buildings in Canary Wharf, which is a 
 forest of tall buildings across the river from here. On film (so to speak) it 
 looks most effective when the subject is backlit and the reflections really 
 do act as a fill light.

OK, I'll try shooting it a bit earlier.  There are buildings across the 
courtyard
so it's an interesting play of what is in shadow from those buildings, and what 
is
being lit by my building.


 
 B
 
 On 2 May 2013, at 07:39, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote:
 
  This afternoon, I noticed that the sun was reflecting off 
  my office building onto trees int he couryard, giving the sort
  of cool effect that you can get with a 100 foot tall fill 
  light reflector.
  
  However, my attempts to capture it were not exactly successful.
  Here are two of the better shots (one processed to both color
  and black and white).
  
  http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157633399893140/
  
  Any suggestions as to what I might do, either in the camera
  or the computer, to improve them?  My one thought is to shoot
  a little earlier, whent he sun is higher in the sky and the
  light is only reflecting onto the nearer trees,
  
  
  -- 
  Larry Colen l...@red4est.com  http://red4est.com/lrc
  
  
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  follow the directions.
 
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Re: advice sought on a shot

[Larry Colen]

On Thu, May 02, 2013 at 06:17:33AM -0700, Aahz Maruch wrote:
 On Wed, May 01, 2013, Larry Colen wrote:
  
  http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157633399893140/
  
  Any suggestions as to what I might do, either in the camera
  or the computer, to improve them?  My one thought is to shoot
  a little earlier, whent he sun is higher in the sky and the
  light is only reflecting onto the nearer trees,
 
 What it are you trying to capture?  Just a good photo with fill or the
 actual effect of double illumination?  If the latter, you might want to
 find a different subject where you can capture a good double-shadow.

Not so much the double illumination, but there is an interesting quality
to the light. Not being a small source like the sun, but not being completely 
diffuse like it's in open shade.  Combine that with the background being
in the shade, and much darker, it seemed like a pretty cool effect.

 -- 
 Hugs and backrubs -- I break Rule 6http://rule6.info/
   *   *   *
 Help a hearing-impaired person: http://rule6.info/hearing.html
 
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Re: advice sought on a shot

[steve harley]

on 2013-05-02 9:49 Larry Colen wrote

Not so much the double illumination, but there is an interesting quality
to the light.


that is one of the hardest things for me to realize in a photograph, and i 
rarely see it in other's photos, so i have concluded that at least some of the 
wonder of such a scene is the experience of how our eyes take it in, distinct 
from what a flat photo of an instant can capture


that said, from looking at your shots, i would try just the lower half of the 
photo, no need for a whole tree nor any sky; it might still stretch the 
camera's dynamic range, so i suppose you could try an HDR approach


also, consider reducing the saturation of the green


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Re: Advice on Selection of Macro Lens

[Kenneth Waller]

An eye dropper ?


-Original Message-
From: John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: Advice on Selection of Macro Lens

From: steve harley
 on 2012-12-03 19:00 Bipin Gupta wrote
 And a WR lens is not at all necessary, for who would go flower or
 insect shooting in a drizzle??

 some flowers are the merest things,
 missed by most until the clouds come over;
 then flatness of the contrast brings
 the less-taxed eye to bitty bracts of clover

How else you going to find Raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens?



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Re: Advice on Selection of Macro Lens

[P. J. Alling]

On 12/6/2012 2:37 AM, Bob W wrote:

From: PDML [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of John Sessoms

on 2012-12-03 19:00 Bipin Gupta wrote

And a WR lens is not at all necessary, for who would go flower or
insect shooting in a drizzle??

some flowers are the merest things,
missed by most until the clouds come over; then flatness of the
contrast brings the less-taxed eye to bitty bracts of clover

How else you going to find Raindrops on roses and whiskers on
kittens?

I thought it was whisky in kittens


I'm not sure if this would improve the kittens much.



B





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lengthly search.


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RE: Advice on Selection of Macro Lens

[Bob W]

 From: PDML [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of P. J. Alling
 
 On 12/6/2012 2:37 AM, Bob W wrote:
  From: PDML [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of John Sessoms
  on 2012-12-03 19:00 Bipin Gupta wrote
  And a WR lens is not at all necessary, for who would go flower or
  insect shooting in a drizzle??
  some flowers are the merest things,
  missed by most until the clouds come over; then flatness of the
  contrast brings the less-taxed eye to bitty bracts of clover
  How else you going to find Raindrops on roses and whiskers on
  kittens?
  I thought it was whisky in kittens
 
 I'm not sure if this would improve the kittens much.
 

they start doing Humphrey Bogart impressions, pretending to be in
Catablanca, saying Here's looking at you, kit, and Round up all the usual
suspets.

B


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Re: Advice on Use of Macro Lens

[David Mann]

On Dec 5, 2012, at 8:08 PM, Leon Altoff leon.alt...@gmail.com wrote:

 The controls do this:
 Clamp: as stated by others stops the lens from moving when pointing it
 down (or up).  It puts a drag on auto focus which will lock it anyway.
 Use it if you need to, I normally left it off.

I'll just highlight here that it's a good idea to leave it the clamp off unless 
you need it.  I rarely use it even when focusing manually and it does slow the 
AF.

Check it periodically as it has a tendency to turn by itself (or get turned by 
normal handling, bumping about in the bag etc).

 Limit: reduces hunt by locking the lens to the macro or non macro
 focus range.  I can't remember actually using it.

I use the limiter all the time because I use my lens as a general purpose 100mm 
as well.  When you turn it to limit make sure you have it focused near 
infinity, otherwise the limiter will restrict you to macro distances only. 
Maybe you'll want that some day, but I haven't yet.

 It's a very nice lens.  Have fun.

Understatement.  Despite its looks it's a wonderful piece of glass.

Cheers,
Dave


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Re: Advice on Use of Macro Lens

[William Robb]

On 05/12/2012 1:56 AM, J.C. O'Connell wrote:

sorry to say it, but this lens sounds like an ergonomic nightmare.


You haven't used one. Save your judgments for what you know about.





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William Robb

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Re: Advice on Use of Macro Lens

[Boris Liberman]

Excellent price for an excellent lens. Congratulations on your 
enablement, Dan.


On 12/5/2012 4:48 AM, Daniel J. Matyola wrote:

After all the great advice I received from this list on selecting a
Macro lens for my K-r (and future K-5), I made my decision.  I decided
to go old school -- and cheap.

I found a used smc Pentax FA 100mm 1:2-8 Macro for $338 including
shipping.  It is certainly well built (and heavy).  So far, I've only
played around with it, taking some test images hand-held.  So far, It
looks really good.

The problem:  I went online to Pentax to download the manual, but they
no longer carry it.  Does anyone know where I can get one.

The reason I need the manual is the lens has two controls that I don't
really understand.  They are visible in the right half of this image:
http://www.photozone.de/images/8Reviews/lenses/pentax_100_28_fa/lens.jpg
.


From the reviews, I understand that the lens hunts a lot in

autofocus mode.  The focus range control apparently alleviates that
problem, by limiting the rage of focus.  I am not clear, however, how
to use the control.  Also, why does this control have an MF setting,
when manual focus is usually selected on the camera.  Is there a
difference between selecting manual focus on the lens rather than on
the camera?

Even more mysterious -- to me -- is the clamp dial.  What does this
do, and how?

Any information or advice will be greatly appreciated.

TIA, Dan

Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola




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RE: Advice on Use of Macro Lens

[J.C. O'Connell]

well I have used manual focus macro lenses and you dont have to bother
with clamping them and no need for focus limiters either. manual focus
for macro rocks...

-
J.C.O'Connell
hifis...@gate.net
-

-Original Message-
From: PDML [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of William Robb
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 8:48 AM
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: Re: Advice on Use of Macro Lens

On 05/12/2012 1:56 AM, J.C. O'Connell wrote:
 sorry to say it, but this lens sounds like an ergonomic nightmare.

You haven't used one. Save your judgments for what you know about.





-- 

William Robb

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Re: Advice on Selection of Macro Lens

[Bruce Walker]

Who shoots flowers in the drizzle or rain? Well, I for one. :-)

With day-lilies you shoot them when they have come out and are at
their best regardless of the weather. And the light is often optimal
on rainy days.

Both of these were shot in the rain, with DA* glass, tripod and my Tilley hat:

Iris:
http://www.flickr.com/bruce_m_walker/3574104231/lightbox/

Flower and insect in one:
http://www.flickr.com/bruce_m_walker/3743921363/lightbox/

If I had a WR macro I'd use it for the smaller flowers. I'll probably
get an extension tube for my DA* 50-135.


On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 9:00 PM, Bipin Gupta bip...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have been using the cheaper 100/3.5 version of the macro lens, and
 find it perfect w/o casting shadows on the subject whether flowers,
 coins, insects or whatever - which may not be possible with a 50 mm
 macro. The shooting distance with a 100 mm macro is optimum - does not
 frighten the subject by being too near it.
 Also as an amateur photographer I shoot macro maybe once in a month.
 And a WR lens is not at all necessary, for who would go flower or
 insect shooting in a drizzle??
 Anyway the choice is very much individual.
 Regards. Bipin.
 camp:Toronto, Canada  not from the far away enchanting land.

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Re: Advice on Selection of Macro Lens

[steve harley]

on 2012-12-03 19:00 Bipin Gupta wrote

And a WR lens is not at all necessary, for who would go flower or
insect shooting in a drizzle??


some flowers are the merest things,
missed by most until the clouds come over;
then flatness of the contrast brings
the less-taxed eye to bitty bracts of clover



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Re: Advice on Use of Macro Lens

[Daniel J. Matyola]

Thanks very much, Darren.  That is EXACTLY what I was seeking.

What a great bunch of helpful people on this list!

Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola


On Wed, Dec 5, 2012 at 12:26 PM, Darren Addy pixelsmi...@gmail.com wrote:
 In answer to the original question, here are the appropriate pages
 from the Pentax-FA Interchangeable Lenses Operating Manual:

 http://www.triadfastener.com/images/FA_Macro22-23.png
 http://www.triadfastener.com/images/FA_Macro24-25.png
 http://www.triadfastener.com/images/FA_Macro26.png

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Re: Advice on Use of Macro Lens

[Daniel J. Matyola]

Thanks Boris!
Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola


On Wed, Dec 5, 2012 at 1:23 PM, Boris Liberman bori...@gmail.com wrote:
 Excellent price for an excellent lens. Congratulations on your enablement,
 Dan.


 On 12/5/2012 4:48 AM, Daniel J. Matyola wrote:

 After all the great advice I received from this list on selecting a
 Macro lens for my K-r (and future K-5), I made my decision.  I decided
 to go old school -- and cheap.

 I found a used smc Pentax FA 100mm 1:2-8 Macro for $338 including
 shipping.  It is certainly well built (and heavy).  So far, I've only
 played around with it, taking some test images hand-held.  So far, It
 looks really good.

 The problem:  I went online to Pentax to download the manual, but they
 no longer carry it.  Does anyone know where I can get one.

 The reason I need the manual is the lens has two controls that I don't
 really understand.  They are visible in the right half of this image:
 http://www.photozone.de/images/8Reviews/lenses/pentax_100_28_fa/lens.jpg
 .

 From the reviews, I understand that the lens hunts a lot in

 autofocus mode.  The focus range control apparently alleviates that
 problem, by limiting the rage of focus.  I am not clear, however, how
 to use the control.  Also, why does this control have an MF setting,
 when manual focus is usually selected on the camera.  Is there a
 difference between selecting manual focus on the lens rather than on
 the camera?

 Even more mysterious -- to me -- is the clamp dial.  What does this
 do, and how?

 Any information or advice will be greatly appreciated.

 TIA, Dan

 Dan Matyola
 http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola



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 PDML@pdml.net
 http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
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Re: Advice on Selection of Macro Lens

[lrc]

Mark!

steve harley p...@paper-ape.com wrote:

on 2012-12-03 19:00 Bipin Gupta wrote
 And a WR lens is not at all necessary, for who would go flower or
 insect shooting in a drizzle??

some flowers are the merest things,
missed by most until the clouds come over;
then flatness of the contrast brings
the less-taxed eye to bitty bracts of clover

-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

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Re: Advice on Selection of Macro Lens

[John Sessoms]

From: steve harley

on 2012-12-03 19:00 Bipin Gupta wrote

And a WR lens is not at all necessary, for who would go flower or
insect shooting in a drizzle??


some flowers are the merest things,
missed by most until the clouds come over;
then flatness of the contrast brings
the less-taxed eye to bitty bracts of clover


How else you going to find Raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens?

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RE: Advice on Selection of Macro Lens

[Bob W]

 From: PDML [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of John Sessoms
  on 2012-12-03 19:00 Bipin Gupta wrote
  And a WR lens is not at all necessary, for who would go flower or
  insect shooting in a drizzle??
 
  some flowers are the merest things,
  missed by most until the clouds come over; then flatness of the
  contrast brings the less-taxed eye to bitty bracts of clover
 
 How else you going to find Raindrops on roses and whiskers on
 kittens?

I thought it was whisky in kittens

B


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RE: Advice on Selection of Macro Lens

[Bob W]

 From: PDML [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of steve harley
 
 on 2012-12-03 19:00 Bipin Gupta wrote
  And a WR lens is not at all necessary, for who would go flower or
  insect shooting in a drizzle??
 
 some flowers are the merest things,
 missed by most until the clouds come over; then flatness of the
 contrast brings the less-taxed eye to bitty bracts of clover
 

Feather-footed through the plashy fen passes the questing vole

B


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Re: Advice on Use of Macro Lens

[Larry Colen]

On Dec 4, 2012, at 6:48 PM, Daniel J. Matyola wrote:
 From the reviews, I understand that the lens hunts a lot in
 autofocus mode.  The focus range control apparently alleviates that
 problem, by limiting the rage of focus.  I am not clear, however, how
 to use the control.  Also, why does this control have an MF setting,
 when manual focus is usually selected on the camera.  Is there a
 difference between selecting manual focus on the lens rather than on
 the camera?

Maybe the old cameras didn't have the easy selection between AF and MF?  

Maybe it just disables the drive altogether from the lens side.

 
 Even more mysterious -- to me -- is the clamp dial.  What does this
 do, and how?

When you get the focus dialed on on the subject, assuming you are using a 
tripod, you clamp the focus so that it doesn't change if you touch the lens.

 
 Any information or advice will be greatly appreciated.
 
 TIA, Dan
 
 Dan Matyola
 http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola
 
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Re: Advice on Use of Macro Lens

[Bob Sullivan]

Dan,
1.  Get the image in macro focus as you want and CLAMP it down so it
doesn't creep out of focus.
2.  I've never used it, but limiter stops that annoying behavior of
hunting from infinity to minimum focus for the right spot.
And really old school is the A100/2.8 Macro...
Regards,  Bob S.

On Tue, Dec 4, 2012 at 8:48 PM, Daniel J. Matyola danmaty...@gmail.com wrote:
 After all the great advice I received from this list on selecting a
 Macro lens for my K-r (and future K-5), I made my decision.  I decided
 to go old school -- and cheap.

 I found a used smc Pentax FA 100mm 1:2-8 Macro for $338 including
 shipping.  It is certainly well built (and heavy).  So far, I've only
 played around with it, taking some test images hand-held.  So far, It
 looks really good.

 The problem:  I went online to Pentax to download the manual, but they
 no longer carry it.  Does anyone know where I can get one.

 The reason I need the manual is the lens has two controls that I don't
 really understand.  They are visible in the right half of this image:
 http://www.photozone.de/images/8Reviews/lenses/pentax_100_28_fa/lens.jpg
 .

 From the reviews, I understand that the lens hunts a lot in
 autofocus mode.  The focus range control apparently alleviates that
 problem, by limiting the rage of focus.  I am not clear, however, how
 to use the control.  Also, why does this control have an MF setting,
 when manual focus is usually selected on the camera.  Is there a
 difference between selecting manual focus on the lens rather than on
 the camera?

 Even more mysterious -- to me -- is the clamp dial.  What does this
 do, and how?

 Any information or advice will be greatly appreciated.

 TIA, Dan

 Dan Matyola
 http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola

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Re: Advice on Use of Macro Lens

[Alastair Robertson]

the clamp is for Manual Focus mode to stop focus creep when you are
eg, holding the camera lens down.  The limit is for AF mode to stop
the lens hunting all the way through the focal length to try and
focus.  I think the AF/MF setting overrides the camera's control but I
am awy from home so can't look at the lens.  I almost always have the
lens in MF mode, since I almost never using AF for macro shots.

This is by far my favourite lens - great for macro of course and also
for portraits but it will show all the wrinkles and spots on your
subject!

If you want some example shots see for example
https://picasaweb.google.com/101251999616543812992/WoolCarderBee#5430979153996617218

Alastair


On 5 December 2012 16:00, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote:

 On Dec 4, 2012, at 6:48 PM, Daniel J. Matyola wrote:
 From the reviews, I understand that the lens hunts a lot in
 autofocus mode.  The focus range control apparently alleviates that
 problem, by limiting the rage of focus.  I am not clear, however, how
 to use the control.  Also, why does this control have an MF setting,
 when manual focus is usually selected on the camera.  Is there a
 difference between selecting manual focus on the lens rather than on
 the camera?

 Maybe the old cameras didn't have the easy selection between AF and MF?

 Maybe it just disables the drive altogether from the lens side.


 Even more mysterious -- to me -- is the clamp dial.  What does this
 do, and how?

 When you get the focus dialed on on the subject, assuming you are using a 
 tripod, you clamp the focus so that it doesn't change if you touch the lens.


 Any information or advice will be greatly appreciated.

 TIA, Dan

 Dan Matyola
 http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola

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 follow the directions.

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Re: Advice on Use of Macro Lens

[Paul Stenquist]

For the most part, autofocus doesn't work well for macro. You're better off 
focusing manually, particularly when shooting off a tripod. You'll have to do 
that often with macro to get enough depth of field.  Or when shooting handheld, 
use autofocus to get close, clamp the focus, then move the camera to fine tune 
focus.

Paul
On Dec 4, 2012, at 9:48 PM, Daniel J. Matyola danmaty...@gmail.com wrote:

 After all the great advice I received from this list on selecting a
 Macro lens for my K-r (and future K-5), I made my decision.  I decided
 to go old school -- and cheap.
 
 I found a used smc Pentax FA 100mm 1:2-8 Macro for $338 including
 shipping.  It is certainly well built (and heavy).  So far, I've only
 played around with it, taking some test images hand-held.  So far, It
 looks really good.
 
 The problem:  I went online to Pentax to download the manual, but they
 no longer carry it.  Does anyone know where I can get one.
 
 The reason I need the manual is the lens has two controls that I don't
 really understand.  They are visible in the right half of this image:
 http://www.photozone.de/images/8Reviews/lenses/pentax_100_28_fa/lens.jpg
 .
 
 From the reviews, I understand that the lens hunts a lot in
 autofocus mode.  The focus range control apparently alleviates that
 problem, by limiting the rage of focus.  I am not clear, however, how
 to use the control.  Also, why does this control have an MF setting,
 when manual focus is usually selected on the camera.  Is there a
 difference between selecting manual focus on the lens rather than on
 the camera?
 
 Even more mysterious -- to me -- is the clamp dial.  What does this
 do, and how?
 
 Any information or advice will be greatly appreciated.
 
 TIA, Dan
 
 Dan Matyola
 http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola
 
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 PDML@pdml.net
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Re: Advice on Use of Macro Lens

[Stan Halpin]

If you are using auto-focus, then you may want to have it search from infinity 
to the front of the lens (Full Range) or you may want the AF engine to work 
only on finding focus within the immediate neighborhood of the front of the 
lens (Limit). Presumably if you are manual focusing you won't be trying to find 
focus across the full range, so you tell the lens you are in MF and it lets you 
figure out what to do from there. 

As Larry said, the Clamp is to lock to achieved focus in place. IIRC, it 
mechanically brakes movement of the lens elements.

stan

On Dec 4, 2012, at 9:48 PM, Daniel J. Matyola wrote:

 After all the great advice I received from this list on selecting a
 Macro lens for my K-r (and future K-5), I made my decision.  I decided
 to go old school -- and cheap.
 
 I found a used smc Pentax FA 100mm 1:2-8 Macro for $338 including
 shipping.  It is certainly well built (and heavy).  So far, I've only
 played around with it, taking some test images hand-held.  So far, It
 looks really good.
 
 The problem:  I went online to Pentax to download the manual, but they
 no longer carry it.  Does anyone know where I can get one.
 
 The reason I need the manual is the lens has two controls that I don't
 really understand.  They are visible in the right half of this image:
 http://www.photozone.de/images/8Reviews/lenses/pentax_100_28_fa/lens.jpg
 .
 
 From the reviews, I understand that the lens hunts a lot in
 autofocus mode.  The focus range control apparently alleviates that
 problem, by limiting the rage of focus.  I am not clear, however, how
 to use the control.  Also, why does this control have an MF setting,
 when manual focus is usually selected on the camera.  Is there a
 difference between selecting manual focus on the lens rather than on
 the camera?
 
 Even more mysterious -- to me -- is the clamp dial.  What does this
 do, and how?
 
 Any information or advice will be greatly appreciated.
 
 TIA, Dan
 
 Dan Matyola
 http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola
 
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Re: Advice on Use of Macro Lens

[Leon Altoff]

Hi,

I like this lens too, though the hunting did annoy me.  I've changed
over to the smaller WR version for most of my current work.

The controls do this:
Clamp: as stated by others stops the lens from moving when pointing it
down (or up).  It puts a drag on auto focus which will lock it anyway.
 Use it if you need to, I normally left it off.

Limit: reduces hunt by locking the lens to the macro or non macro
focus range.  I can't remember actually using it.

MF: Turns the lens into a manual focus lens as far as the camera is
concerned.  This means you can use the Trap in focus feature where
the camera is set  to autofocus (the lens in manual) and keeping the
shutter button depressed the camera will fire when it gets autofocus
confirmation.  I played with it a couple of times, but found that to
get the best depth of field I needed to manually focus anyway.

It's a very nice lens.  Have fun.

Leon

On 5 December 2012 13:48, Daniel J. Matyola danmaty...@gmail.com wrote:
 After all the great advice I received from this list on selecting a
 Macro lens for my K-r (and future K-5), I made my decision.  I decided
 to go old school -- and cheap.

 I found a used smc Pentax FA 100mm 1:2-8 Macro for $338 including
 shipping.  It is certainly well built (and heavy).  So far, I've only
 played around with it, taking some test images hand-held.  So far, It
 looks really good.

 The problem:  I went online to Pentax to download the manual, but they
 no longer carry it.  Does anyone know where I can get one.

 The reason I need the manual is the lens has two controls that I don't
 really understand.  They are visible in the right half of this image:
 http://www.photozone.de/images/8Reviews/lenses/pentax_100_28_fa/lens.jpg
 .

 From the reviews, I understand that the lens hunts a lot in
 autofocus mode.  The focus range control apparently alleviates that
 problem, by limiting the rage of focus.  I am not clear, however, how
 to use the control.  Also, why does this control have an MF setting,
 when manual focus is usually selected on the camera.  Is there a
 difference between selecting manual focus on the lens rather than on
 the camera?

 Even more mysterious -- to me -- is the clamp dial.  What does this
 do, and how?

 Any information or advice will be greatly appreciated.

 TIA, Dan

 Dan Matyola
 http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola

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the directions.

RE: Advice on Use of Macro Lens

[J.C. O'Connell]

sorry to say it, but this lens sounds like an ergonomic nightmare.

-
J.C.O'Connell
hifis...@gate.net
-

-Original Message-
From: PDML [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of Stan Halpin
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2012 10:10 PM
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: Re: Advice on Use of Macro Lens

If you are using auto-focus, then you may want to have it search from
infinity to the front of the lens (Full Range) or you may want the AF engine
to work only on finding focus within the immediate neighborhood of the front
of the lens (Limit). Presumably if you are manual focusing you won't be
trying to find focus across the full range, so you tell the lens you are in
MF and it lets you figure out what to do from there. 

As Larry said, the Clamp is to lock to achieved focus in place. IIRC, it
mechanically brakes movement of the lens elements.

stan

On Dec 4, 2012, at 9:48 PM, Daniel J. Matyola wrote:

 After all the great advice I received from this list on selecting a
 Macro lens for my K-r (and future K-5), I made my decision.  I decided
 to go old school -- and cheap.
 
 I found a used smc Pentax FA 100mm 1:2-8 Macro for $338 including
 shipping.  It is certainly well built (and heavy).  So far, I've only
 played around with it, taking some test images hand-held.  So far, It
 looks really good.
 
 The problem:  I went online to Pentax to download the manual, but they
 no longer carry it.  Does anyone know where I can get one.
 
 The reason I need the manual is the lens has two controls that I don't
 really understand.  They are visible in the right half of this image:
 http://www.photozone.de/images/8Reviews/lenses/pentax_100_28_fa/lens.jpg
 .
 
 From the reviews, I understand that the lens hunts a lot in
 autofocus mode.  The focus range control apparently alleviates that
 problem, by limiting the rage of focus.  I am not clear, however, how
 to use the control.  Also, why does this control have an MF setting,
 when manual focus is usually selected on the camera.  Is there a
 difference between selecting manual focus on the lens rather than on
 the camera?
 
 Even more mysterious -- to me -- is the clamp dial.  What does this
 do, and how?
 
 Any information or advice will be greatly appreciated.
 
 TIA, Dan
 
 Dan Matyola
 http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola
 
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RE: Advice on Selection of Macro Lens

[Krisjanis Linkevics]

 Quoting J.C. O'Connell 
  90mm would be fine on 35mm film but on a pentax aps-c dslr its too
  long
 
 Well I've been using it for the last 7 years on APS-C but obviously
 I've been wrong.
 
 Brian

That's not wrong, that's just slightly misguided. I really enjoyed my Sigma 180 
macro on the *istD and K10D, now that was all sorts of wrong. Gave me nice 
pictures, though.

kris

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Re: Advice on Selection of Macro Lens

[Daniel J. Matyola]

Thanks, Chris.

BTW, how did you catch 30 squid?  G
Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola


On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 4:40 PM, Chris Mitchell chris.mitch...@which.net wrote:
 On 1 December 2012 14:18, Daniel J. Matyola danmaty...@gmail.com wrote:
 I want a versatile macro lens for my K-r, that would be suitable when
 eventually I upgrade to a K-5 series or whatever comes along.  Without
 getting too exotic or pricey, I would like fairly wide max aperture
 and good bokeh.  I would use it mostly to shoot flowers, butterflies
 and the like.  If it could take decent images outside the macro range
 as well, that would be a plus.

 What are others using?  What moderately price lens would you recommend

 TIA, Dan

 Hi Dan. I've got a Sigma 50mm 2.8 MF macro. Got it on Ebay for under
 30 quid. I've mostly used it for copying 35mm slides on a light box
 and it does a good job of that - but I can't comment on bokeh. If you
 could get one at that sort of price, it would be worth a punt.

 Chris

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