Re: lens strategies for school play?

2002-05-29 Thread Paul F. Stregevsky

Mishka wrote:

Paul,
What I realized I had sorely missed was a color conversion filter, 
something like 80A. It was still sorta OK since I scanned the pictures 
afterwards and had a chance
to fiddle quite a bit in Photoshop, but still, I really wish I had either 
the filter or tungsten film. Of course, I am assuming you are shooting 
color, right?

Mishka,
I shoot only daylight-balanced color print film, and  I neither own nor use 
color correcting filters. Ace Photo in Sterling, VA does an outstanding job 
at color correcting; Forget filters; leave the color correcting to me, 
advises Mo.) I need the speed (ISO 1600) of daylight-balanced film. In any 
event, theater lighting is such an odd and unpredictable mixture, I'm not 
sure that tungsten film would be in my interest. For a classroom setting, 
it could...though I more commonly see fluorescent lighting.

I like to tweak the digital scan in PhotoImpact anyway, cropping, enhancing 
or reducing contrast, and perhaps sharpening just a tad. In my digital 
touchups, I used to reduce saturation by 30 percent or more in an effort to 
make the people and their costumes look natural. But I'm coming to realize 
that recipients like their images a bit on the warm side; it reminds them 
of the theater milieu.


Paul Franklin Stregevsky
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Re: lens strategies for school play?

2002-05-29 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Tuesday, May 28, 2002, at 06:21  PM, Paul F. Stregevsky wrote:

 I'll be shooting Fuji NPZ 800 at 1600 and pushed 1 stop.

Don't do it!  If you need to shoot it at 1600, shoot it at 1600, but 
process it normally, the images will be MUCH better.  If you're shooting 
multiple rolls, and don't believe me ( ;) ), start by processing two 
rolls, one normal and one pushed.  From there, decide what to do.  It 
is very unlikely that you'll be choosing the pushed unless your lab is 
underprocessing to begin with.

-Aaron
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Re: lens strategies for school play?

2002-05-29 Thread Christopher Lillja

Once again, this is one of those situations where a little advance scouting will do 
ya' right. Where will you be sitting and what will the lighting be like? Is there a 
special person in the cast who you simply must get? When will they be on stage and 
what will the lighting be at that moment?

Spot meter, man. Spot meter. Or get a reading off someone's face way up close and 
manually lock it in. Just leaving the camera on AE (without spot metering) can really 
mess you up here. 

Use print film and let the lab fix the color. I've had good results with 800 speed 
Agfa Vista or Kodak Supra. This is definitly a situation where a faster prime is very 
handy. In my experience, pushing film to 3200 is not an adequite strategy to replace a 
fast lens. With reasonable lighting, a constant 2.8 zoom should do fine too. If you 
can get reasonably close, a 50/1.7 will do fine. An 85/2 would be wonderful. A 135/2.8 
(or better yet 135/2.5) will do well from a little further back in the house. If 
there's a big number in a musical try to get a wide shot covering the entire stage 
with the 50/1.7 or a wider prime. Use a lens hood.

An F4-5.6 zoom (even a constant F4 zoom like my favorite, the 28-70/4 FA) probably 
won't cut it. You'll probably see exposures like 1/30 to 1/125  F1.8 to 2.8  (the 
extra shutter speed  1/125 or faster will be great to give a little stop action).

Leave the flash at home. It's very rude to set off a flash while young performers are 
trying to do their thing during a performance. 
 
Good luck.

Chris L. 
School Publications Guy

Christopher Lillja
Publications Coordinator
The Pennington School
www.pennington.org
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Re: lens strategies for school play?

2002-05-29 Thread Mishka

The exam I mentioned was actually a stage performance :)
And the lab that made me the prints did a horrible job wrt color
correction, and it took me hours of PS tweaking to get it reasonably
right...
Good luck,

Mishka

 From: Paul F. Stregevsky 
 Subject: Re: lens strategies for school play? 
 Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 06:19:07 -0700 
 
 
 (...)
 I'm not sure that tungsten film would be in my interest. For a 
 classroom setting, it could...though I more commonly see fluorescent 
 lighting.
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http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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Re: lens strategies for school play?

2002-05-29 Thread Debra Wilborn

--- Paul F. Stregevsky [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 PS: A bargain at twice the price. Thanks! :)
 

You're very much welcome.  Now have fun and show us
some pics when you're done!

Deb
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http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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NPZ push processing (WAS: Re: lens strategies for school play?)

2002-05-29 Thread Timothy Sherburne

Aaron... I'm not sure about NPZ, but I photographed a play recently with
Fuji Superia Xtra 800 at 1600 and push-processed 1 stop. The proofs were
done by a good printer and the results were awesome (that's not just my
assessment). The color and contrast were good and the grain nearly
invisible. Is there something about NPZ that won't handle the extra stop
during development, or is this a comment about push-processing in general?

(Sorry I don't have any examples to share; I've got to get a better source
for scanning my pix.)

t 

On 5/29/02 6:17 AM, Aaron Reynolds wrote:

 On Tuesday, May 28, 2002, at 06:21  PM, Paul F. Stregevsky wrote:
 
 I'll be shooting Fuji NPZ 800 at 1600 and pushed 1 stop.
 
 Don't do it!  If you need to shoot it at 1600, shoot it at 1600, but
 process it normally, the images will be MUCH better.  If you're shooting
 multiple rolls, and don't believe me ( ;) ), start by processing two
 rolls, one normal and one pushed.  From there, decide what to do.  It
 is very unlikely that you'll be choosing the pushed unless your lab is
 underprocessing to begin with.
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Re: lens strategies for school play?

2002-05-28 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

 Paul  wrote:

 I've planned about 60 shots from the back of the auditorium: 
   05 percent with my Pentax SMC 35/2K or Rikenon P 50/2K
   20 percent with my Kiron 105/2.5K macro
   55 percent with my Vivitar 135/2.3K
   20 percent with my Pentax SMC 200/2.5K
 I'm nervous that switching lenses--out with the 135, in with the 105--will
 make me lose shots and lose my place. Should I use a third body, perhaps on
 my Cullmann monopod?

If you have a third body  tripod - by all means use it

Put a 36exp roll in for the Viv 135 since you plan 50%+
of the shots w/ it. 24exp rolls should then suffice for 
the other two bodies 105mm  50mm w/ one and 200mm  35mm
w/ the other might work OK.
 
 I'll be shooting Fuji NPZ 800 at 1600 and pushed 1 stop. In this
 auditorium, this combination has allowed me to shoot at f/4.5 to
 f5.6 with good results (typically 1/15 to 1/60 second).

Seems slow shutter speeds to me. No flash allowed?  
 
 Would it be feasible to use my Vivitar Series One 90-180/4.5K
 instead of the 105, 135, and 200? 

;^)  You're the guy for collected lens data - you tell us!

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Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast

http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: lens strategies for school play?

2002-05-28 Thread Debra Wilborn

Far from being a pro, let me offer my amatuer opinion.

When I worked for the campus paper, I was 90 percent
of the time the one to cover fine arts events.  I
think I spent more time in our auditorium than most of
the music majors.  First rule: no flash.  (Like I'm
sure you were going to be poppin' off with a big mondo
flash.)

If the auditorium is big, I would recommend finding a
place down front and out of the way or off to the side
and closer to the stage.  If it's really big, I
wouldn't use anything less than 100mm.  A few times I
took shots from the side aisles and was surprised at
how different the action looks.  You can get players
on opposite ends of the stage close together and the
compression effect from a tele can look really nice.  

Maybe they would let you shoot from the stage wings. 
I'm just having this vision of a normal to wide angle
shot from backstage looking across the bright stage
into the dark hall, multicolored lights flaring ever
so artistically...  I need to go to a play. :)

Another thing about taking photos from different
points in the auditorium, is that it makes the pics
more interesting.  Unless you're really carefull with
composition, it's going to be pretty obvious that you
took all the shots from the same place, way in the
back of the hall.  I always liked the photos I took
from close-in better.

Unless you need to move around a lot, go ahead and
bring a third body.  That's what it's for, right?  I
say, the less you have to change lenses in the dark,
the better.  On second thought, go ahead and bring the
third body even if you need to move around.  Remember
the Equipment Freak thread?  Just wear all three
around your neck.  It will be dark so nobody will
notice how strange you look. :)

I really think they should let you get up front to
photograph.  If they're willing to allow
behind-the-scenes coverage, surely they wouldn't mind
some top notch stuff from the front row.  Or from
those director's box thingies, if it's a nice stage
and they have those.

Oh, and one more thing.  Wear black.  Not only will
you blend into the shadows like the ninja camera guy
that you are, it will also make you look suave and
professional: the Paul Mitchell of Pentax.

Well, that's my four cents.  (Inflation.)

Deb in TX


--- Paul F. Stregevsky [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
 I've just returned from the final dress rehearsal of
 a school play I'll be 
 shooting Thursday or Friday night. Besides the
 behind-the-scenes shots, 
 I've planned about 60 shots from the back of the
 auditorium:
 
 05 percent with my Pentax SMC 35/2K or Rikenon P
 50/2K
 20 percent with my Kiron 105/2.5K macro
 55 percent with my Vivitar 135/2.3K
 20 percent with my Pentax SMC 200/2.5K
 
 I'll be using two tripods: The 200 on my main
 tripod, a Cullmann Titan, 
 the 135 on the Bogen 3001. I don't know yet how I'll
 switch these out for 
 the 35, 50, and 105.
 
 I'm nervous that switching lenses--out with the 135,
 in with the 105--will 
 make me lose shots and lose my place. Should I use a
 third body, perhaps on 
 my Cullmann monopod?
 
 I'll be shooting Fuji NPZ 800 at 1600 and pushed 1
 stop. In this 
 auditorium, this combination has allowed me to shoot
 at f/4.5 to 5.6 with 
 good results (typically 1/15 to 1/60 second).
 
 Would it be feasible to use my Vivitar Series One
 90-180/4.5K instead of 
 the 105, 135, and 200? Or do you think the results
 at f/4.5 and 5.6 
 wouldn't be as nice? What about using the zoom
 instead of two of the 
 lenses, but not instead of all three?
 
 I can see why so many of you own an 80-200/2.8K
 
 
 Paul Franklin Stregevsky
 -
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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Re: lens strategies for school play?

2002-05-28 Thread Mishka

Paul,
A few weeks ago I was shooting the final exam in Moscow art college (by
accident -- I just happened to have a camera). What I realized I had
sorely missed was a color conversion filter, something like 80A. It was
still sorta OK since I scanned the pictures afterwards and had a chance
to fiddle quite a bit in Photoshop, but still, I really wish I had
either the filter or tungsten film. Of course, I am assuming you are
shooting color, right?

Mishka

 From: Paul F. Stregevsky 
 Subject: lens strategies for school play? 
 Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 15:15:44 -0700 
 
 
 
 I've just returned from the final dress rehearsal of a school play 
 I'll be shooting Thursday or Friday night. Besides the behind-the-
 scenes shots, I've planned about 60 shots from the back of the 
 auditorium:
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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Re: lens strategies for school play?

2002-05-28 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

Mishka wrote:

 A few weeks ago I was shooting the final exam in Moscow art
 college. What I realized I had sorely missed was a color 
 conversion filter, something like 80A.
 
Yes - incandescent lighting w/ daylight balanced film is
bad news - even though sometimes acceptable prints can be
wrung out w/ complex variations at the printing stage. But
conversion filters kill off too much precious light in 
already marginal situations. I have come to the point where
I do my stage shots at full dress rehearsals or the full dress
pick-up rehearsals during the run of the show. I work w/ the
director and use flash. Otherwise it's pushed 3200 bw.

A local dance group is doing Alice in Wonderland now and
I'll probably drop in Wednesday for the pick-up. There's no
photo budget, but I am interested in seeing how Portra 800
will work w/ the AF280t and the 6x7 w/ the 150mm. I may just 
use Provia 400f instead - not sure yet. I'm trying not to get
too carried away since there's no money in it and things are
a bit tight just now on the home front. The Portra would need
printed. Expense isn't bad, but the time lag for sendout  re-
turn compared to ~3-4days for E-6  ... Hmmm, I do have a bit of
Delta 3200 for the 6x7 to try out, too.

But - I do agree that blasting off flash during an actual
performance is a bit crude. Best leave all that to the pros
w/ their Canons  Nikons! ;^) 

Bill

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Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast

http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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