Re: semi-OT: framing
On Mar 14, 2004, at 21:25, mike wilson wrote: To break after scoring, I use a ruler placed under the sheet parallel to the cut. Pressure on either edge (using protection if one side is very short) usually (!) produces a clean cut. Tile nibblers will work for any small excrescences but you need to take tiny bites. I found that after scoring I can just pick up the glass on either side of the cut, held between thumb and forefinger of each hand, and it just falls apart with the slightest pressure. If the score was good it'll break perfectly. I had one piece of glass where my ruler moved by 2mm near the end of the cut, and the break followed the curve precisely. That's why I cut the glass a couple of mm smaller than the frame :) I haven't tried breaking off small pieces though. For that I might follow a method similar to yours. I forgot to mention that prior to cutting I clean the glass on the side I'll be scoring. One of the guides I read said that before scoring, the area where you're scoring needs to be free of grease/oils (ie fingerprints). I used isopropyl alcohol for this, because that's what I had available. Not sure how accurate that info is though, considering that you're supposed to oil the glass cutter blade. Cheers, - Dave http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/
Re: semi-OT: framing
Hi, graywolf wrote: > > Seems like folks don't believe in elbow grease anymore. The way to get glass > realy clean is to polish it until dry. If that doesn't do it, it just means you > didn't get all the dirt in the washing stage, so do it over. Forgot the last time round; I was going to mention the old trick of using newspaper as a cloth, first dampened with vinegar then dry and buffing until all marks disappear. Works a treat. mike
Re: semi-OT: framing
At 05:37 PM 3/14/2004 +1300, you wrote: I borrowed a framing book from the public library today. In the "glass" section it recommends a 50% solution of denatured alcohol in water. My partner is a chemist so I should be able to get that pretty cheaply. I have some isopropyl alcohol here but I think that tends to leave streaks. I'll be interested to try that myself. I clean glass for frames with Windex but have noticed that the 'outgassing' deposits from inkjet prints seem to form in streak marks on the glass - suggesting that there is some residue from the Windex that it is forming on. I tried dilute ammonia water on my most recent batch of frames, but it's too early too see if that is different than Windex. - MCC - Mark Cassino Photography Kalamazoo, MI http://www.markcassino.com -
Re: semi-OT: framing
Seems like folks don't believe in elbow grease anymore. The way to get glass realy clean is to polish it until dry. If that doesn't do it, it just means you didn't get all the dirt in the washing stage, so do it over. -- mike wilson wrote: Hi. David Mann wrote: I managed to get the "knack" of cutting it today, using some offcuts. I was doing two things wrong... first, I was drawing the cutter across the glass too slowly and it kept catching. The second problem was the pressure I was applying. The instructions said light pressure, but my definition of "light" is obviously way too light. To break after scoring, I use a ruler placed under the sheet parallel to the cut. Pressure on either edge (using protection if one side is very short) usually (!) produces a clean cut. Tile nibblers will work for any small excrescences but you need to take tiny bites. I borrowed a framing book from the public library today. In the "glass" section it recommends a 50% solution of denatured alcohol in water. That will need to be distilled or deionised water. mike -- graywolf http://graywolfphoto.com "You might as well accept people as they are, you are not going to be able to change them anyway."
Re: semi-OT: framing
On Sat, 13 Mar 2004, Bob W wrote: > Take care with canned air. If you use it wrong you can spray propellant > crap all over and it can be difficult to get it off. Canned air isn't *all* bad, though. Turn the cannister upside down, spray the propellant on paper, and it makes the paper transparent. Blow on it a bit, and it evaporates, leaving the paper completely dry again. Note that I don't advocate using this for evil. :) chris
Re: semi-OT: framing
- Original Message - From: "David Mann" Subject: semi-OT: framing > Does anyone else here do their own framing? > > I'm after some tips regarding the glass. I was able to cut the large > sheets (1220x920mm) to a more reasonable size, but cutting it to fit > the frame was disastrous (it took me three tries). I can't be bothered with cutting my own glass. I am quite willing to pay someone else to do this and take the risk of breakage. Just order what you need, and pay what will probably be a very reasonable cutting fee. > > The other problem I'm having is cleaning the glass prior to final > assembly of the frame. Is there a glass cleaning product available > which is suitable for archival use, or should I just use water? Dust > is also a major problem: I'm planning to try using canned air to help > here as I don't have a compressor. Last time I used a small > blower-brush and it drove me nuts. Windex seems to work well as a glass cleaner. I use an anti static brush (Kinetronics?) after cleaning the glass to remove stray bits of paper towel and dust. William Robb
